ringo

Play all games you owned mang and not the specific one. Use your computer normally and put it to sleep for a long period time then wake up. 

Battlefield 1, 4,5 and other battlefield games. Battlefield 1 is very sensitive to oc systems. If you pass 4 hours single and multiplayers gameplay of bf1, then you should be able to pass any real world app usage. 
 
Prime95 small fft for 24 hours max. 12 hours min and 6 hours overnight recommend. 
 
Then follow up memtest86
 
Then PLAY A LOT OF GAMES
 
Then use your computer normally
 
Put your computer to sleep overnight than wake up in the morning. I have seen unstable oc systems crash in this situation. 
 
Then loop a single raw footage gameplay in handbrake for 2 hours. 
 
 

My games mainly dictate my overclocks.
 
I use Cinebench R15 first for CPUs. If the overclock gets past that I run Prime95 without AVX for a few minutes to see max temps, but that is usually 20c over my game temps. If it gets past that it is streight to play testing.  
The i7 8086k with 5ghz and 5.1ghz on all cores have no issues with my games so I am happy. My i7 8700k on the same motherboard would only be stable in all my games at 4.7 on all cores even though it could do 4.9ghz in Cinebench and Prime95.
 
For GPUs I use Heaven or Valley in a window to adjust an overclock along with TimeSpy and FireStrike to test it. I use Superposition as well but I have never gotten a freeze out of it so if I leave it out it is no big deal. 
Right now the game Control dictates my GPU overclock. Before that it was Fallout 4. Both games will freeze with an overclock that gets past the above benches. Knocking the overclock down by a small amount fixes them. 
I have these overclocks preset in Pressission X1 so I can select them before playing. If I forget to set it, the default is the Control overclock that is 17mhz below the Fallout 4 overclock that is only 3mhz below my max overclock.
For vram overclocking I use Heaven looping. The vram on my RTX 2080 tis overclocked can run up to 20c over the temps of the GPU and VRM. This heat builds over time so I test for about 4 hours. This needs a card that has heat sensors like my EVGA FTW3 Ultra to test.  
 
For ram nothing right now. I just set the XMP and go.
When I was on Z170 with a i7 6700k I had to set it manually since using XMP caused freezes in some games.
I use the same ram in my Z370 builds so I blame the motherboards for the issues I had. 
 
 
 

All of these sound reasonable, but AIDA64 isn't too great a stress test.
For the RAM, there's also memtest86, which is considered one of the best RAM testing utilities.
Superposition works just fine for the GPU.
 
For Prime95, 20 minutes is a good amount of time for most. Same goes for the other CPU tests.
Not too sure about RAM. Probably 20 minutes at a minimum.
Run Superposition for around 30 seconds, that should be adequate. Though there's nothing stopping you from going longer on all these tests.

Extension cables don't consume power, unless they have a chip in them to amplify the signals so that they'll travel over longer distance. Without any active amplification, I think the maximum distance recommended by the USB standard is 3 meters.
Even so, in general those chips consume very small amount of power, something like 10-50mA out of the 900mA power budget.
 
No, nothing bad will happen. Worst case scenario if the cable is too long, your wireless card will randomly restart or shut down because there's not enough power reaching the other end of the cable... but the computer will be just fine.
 
 

yes, of course

IOPS are random read/writes. A1 is a speed rating, most important for use in a phone SD card, when you want to put games/applications on it.
Class 10 is for sequential writes,
A1 for random read/writes.
 
But no, it is in no way a endurance rating.
 

You're not gonna notice much difference. Pick one and call it a day. You're a bit late on buying it, it was $1.99 for a good month or so not that long ago.

You probably won't need to do that.
Most modern sound cards have auto detection of what you plug in the audio jacks. You can basically plug a jack in any connector and the sound card will auto detect the type (if it's speakers, microphone etc)
Try plugging your headphones in the Line In or Microphone jacks in the back, the sound card should detect it and just work.
If not, open the control panel that / application that comes with your sound card and manually set the role of the plug to headphones.
For example, on my Realtek HD Audio Manager I can double click on the right on the analogue audio plugs and say "this is headphones"
 

 
If this doesn't work, your motherboard has the audio jacks in the back and an AC97/HDAUDIO front panel header.
 
You can get some extension cable (anything with 2 x 5 wires) and cut the wires and connect them to your audio cable, the pinout of that header is standardized:
 

 
 
5 PORT 2R Analog Port 2—right channel (Headphone) 9 PORT 2L Analog Port 2—left channel (Headphone) 2 GND Ground That's your three wires for the headphones jack.
 
Here's example of cable you can buy from ebay : https://www.ebay.com/itm/Internal-Motherboard-AC97-HD-audio-9pin-male-to-female-Extension-Cable-cord-40cm/312083838829?epid=888339804&hash=item48a9a5776d:g:A~IAAOSwgQ9VpOLc
 
Cut the connector with the pins.. Get a male-female stereo cable, cut the male connector and connect the wires together.... job done.

The difference between HDMI 2.0 and HDMI 2.0a is the addition of HDR signaling, which is purely bytes sent over the HDMI cable, just extra packets of data. Doesn't change the physical connectors, doesn't change the number of wires in the cable, doesn't change the minimum requirements for quality of wires inside the cable...
HDMI 2.0 is capable of up to 18gbps of information ... your 1920x1080 60 Hz is barely 3-4 gbps, with or without HDR. 
 

If you're paranoid about viruses, install Comodo Firewall and use its sandbox for browsing internet.

i might be wrong but i think all these antivirus plugins do is check the url youre visiting against some blacklist
(and most likely sending the url to their server, so they pretty much know your browsing history)

Usually when this happens it's because the NAND has decided it doesn't want to do any more writes. I've had a few flash drives do it, never found a way to reverse it yet.
 
You could try a low level format but be warned, chances are it will kill the drive entirely rather than fix it.

Along with what @Master Disaster said above, here's SanDisk's take on the subject, as well as a link to their RMA form:
 
https://kb.sandisk.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/8656/~/write-protect-error-on-usb-flash-drives

No way! Find program that can restore deleted partitions, not files!
I found few tools for that in few seconds using google:
https://www.easeus.com/partition-recovery/index.htm
https://www.cgsecurity.org/wiki/TestDisk
http://findandmount.com/
 
Try some of them or find better.

It wouldnt interfere, i have something like this i use for holding phone and kindle chargers on the side of my desk, no issues, also used it on an audio wire (TRS i believe) with 0 issues.

19-pin and 20-pin are the same connector. Given two rows of pins, 19 and 20 are the same width. The odd pin out is for keying to prevent you from plugging it in upside-down (harder with USB 3.0 than it would have been with 2.0).
 
Sidenote: the USB ports to the inside from the card reader is a pretty neat idea. Plug your wireless dongles in there.

Champion, that worked!
 
Cheers for replying

On my box I have installed MX player which worked very long time very good until yesterday. Now it doesn`t gives me no sound even with files that worked good before. Sometimes it gives me popup that it doesn`t support EAC3 audio. I tryed with this video
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yZsIcTtetG8
 
but (I presumme that codec is activated automaticlly) no sound again. On Kodi there is sound but for some reason KODI sometimes just exit randomly.
 
I installed Archos video player, it gives me message no EAC3 audio.
 
I deleted cache and data from MX player, it gives sound on first file I played but no on other files. When I returned to that first files again no sound again. Solution to this?

It's just a cheapo cable. You can get one for 70 cents on monoprice and it'll work.

It's just a micro USB "b" cable, as the other guy mentioned it's probably longer to fit a certain device is all, so if you still need to connect that device keep it, if not you might as well throw it out as it's no good for anything else unfortunately. I have had ones like that too, I'm more careful with what devices I get nowadays and try to avoid those type of bespoke connectors... I'm guessing that the port on the device was set back int he case a ways, so made it unusable with regular micro b cables. I hate that.

Maybe all the assets is already in game that's why the DLC is small? Or the DLC is actually part of full game that they cut out for DLC. 

I play that video while ASMR video running on the background.. freaked me out a bit. 
Yes everything is alright. 
 
Sry i don't know where to download the comic book.

Avoid it. The cheapest mouse with a good sensor is the Logitech G102.

The white sled slides into the drive cage, between the sled and cage that can be some space or movement (play) so the potential for vibration between those two since they are toolless without something to psychically fasten it down.