ringo

1 minute ago, fuzz0r said:

Nothing other than a factory reset if I remember correctly.

Have you tried using a different browser to see if it's the same error?

It can't install other browser, it says it requries version ios 10 and above. It is my friend ipad, I am waiting him to deliver ipad cable so I can try itunes as last solution.

2 minutes ago, fuzz0r said:

In your link it says it can't be updated past 9.3.5. So probably not.

If your Safari is loading blank pages have you checked time and date settings are correct?

Date and time are normal, can anything be do through itunes? 

Can Ipad 3 be updated past version 9.3.5?

https://www.gsmarena.com/apple_ipad_3_wi_fi-4621.php

Model is A1416

It gives me this version as latest when I try check for updates. Problem is that Safari is loading black pages, I can't install other browser (need version ios 10).

19 hours ago, OlympicAssEater said:

Battlefield 1, 4,5 and other battlefield games. Battlefield 1 is very sensitive to oc systems. If you pass 4 hours single and multiplayers gameplay of bf1, then you should be able to pass any real world app usage. 

 

Prime95 small fft for 24 hours max. 12 hours min and 6 hours overnight recommend. 

 

Then follow up memtest86

 

Then PLAY A LOT OF GAMES

 

Then use your computer normally

 

Put your computer to sleep overnight than wake up in the morning. I have seen unstable oc systems crash in this situation. 

 

Then loop a single raw footage gameplay in handbrake for 2 hours. 

 

 

Thanks,. By looking at youtube benchmarks I found out that Rainbow Six: Siege, Mafia 3 and Dying light also requries a lot of CPU usage. Maybe I will test will some of them, I am not a big fan of battlefield games.

Aside from stress test is there a game that uses overall big amount of resources for strees OC stabillity but it isn't too big in hard disk size?

11 hours ago, CyberneticTitan said:

To really hammer the CPU I've used Handbrake or Folding@Home for at least a week (while I'm not active, no shutdown period).

I just need something to test stabillity of overclock, nothing extreme:)

I was thinking:

CPU: Prime95 (small or large?), Aida64, OCCT (Linepack 2019?)

RAM: Hci memtest -> overall memory/ number of CPU threads -< number of open windows

GPU: Unigine superposition

How much time to test?

AMD R5 1600

Thanks all for advice. Steelseries support told me that this is not normal keyboard behaviour and that I can send it to RMA. Right now I need keyboard for work but I will send it in near future directly where I bought it, on Amazon.

1 hour ago, Arika S said:

Why not? It's a defect

I sent a mail to Steelseries but as far as I read some threads about that problems everybody say that is not for RMA, tha I will hava to live with it

@minibois

I won't solder anything, it is a month old keyboard, I never done anything like that. I sent a mail to Steelseries support to see they advice

3 minutes ago, Arika S said:

o-ring wouldn't help. If it sounds like the video you linked, it's possible the spring is the wrong size and isn't just pushing the key back up into place, it's too tight so it's literally springing back with more force than necessary.

 

See if you're able to buy a single replacement switch and swap it out with the problematic one. Looks like they just pop out similar to cherry's

It is Steelseries apex 7 keyboard under warranty, not hot swap keyboard. So sound won' t go away, can't RMA it, I must live with that?

On my keyboard with gateron red one letter got some metal resonance sound when typing. Is it possible that this sound will go away? Does that comes under warranty? 

It sound something like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yQ_L3WnAnQk

On back of my motherboard I am thinking to use two usb port, every port will have usb extension cable, one extension usb cable is for bluetooth BT 400 (2 meters) and other is for wifi adapter (6 meters). Will this create any problems with power draw, USB port too overloaded? Every device wiill work fine?

anyone?

bumping this thread, here is the current situation:

On back of my mobo I have connected wireless usb adapter and it works great (in first post it was connected at front). If I connect USB stick on front panel of my case and start to use usb stick my internet speed becomes very slow. I am still on BIOS 4204 (x470-f strix) and I am using my old windwos (version 1703) installation from my previous mbo. Should I update BIOS and reinstall Windows? Also when updating BIOS I just put it on stick and update through BIOS, as far as I seen there si no bridge BIOS so I can safely update to latest version?

From other forum I got this answer:

I forgot to ask what allocation size to set on sd card 32gb and usb 64gb? I will set them on exfat format but for allocation size I have no idea...

38 minutes ago, Origami Cactus said:

IOPS are random read/writes. A1 is a speed rating, most important for use in a phone SD card, when you want to put games/applications on it.

Class 10 is for sequential writes,

A1 for random read/writes.

 

But no, it is in no way a endurance rating.

 

will it be okay for using it on andorid box for 720p/1080p movies?

I bought Adata 32GB UHS-I class10 sd card. ON packate there is also rating of A1 Random R/1500 W/500 IOPS. What does it mean, something about sd card endurance? Max 500 writes and then sd card is dead?

Some say that Limited is better, that it has less bugs and more DLC (30 vs 24). Is that true? Is seems strange to me since definitive editon was released later. So which one to get?

Update: I will after windows reinstall try method that @mariushm recommended me and I will just for any case buy some cheap audio adapter. Is tere a difference between these two adapter on this link:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32866799670.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.283c3c006KPLVY

What is better for my situation (two with mic and earphone picture on those for two earphones), speakers 2.1 and headphone in Line in?

On 7/8/2019 at 2:19 PM, mariushm said:

You probably won't need to do that.

Most modern sound cards have auto detection of what you plug in the audio jacks. You can basically plug a jack in any connector and the sound card will auto detect the type (if it's speakers, microphone etc)

Try plugging your headphones in the Line In or Microphone jacks in the back, the sound card should detect it and just work.

If not, open the control panel that / application that comes with your sound card and manually set the role of the plug to headphones.

For example, on my Realtek HD Audio Manager I can double click on the right on the analogue audio plugs and say "this is headphones"

 

 

If this doesn't work, your motherboard has the audio jacks in the back and an AC97/HDAUDIO front panel header.

 

You can get some extension cable (anything with 2 x 5 wires) and cut the wires and connect them to your audio cable, the pinout of that header is standardized:

 

 

 

5

PORT 2R

Analog Port 2—right channel (Headphone)

9

PORT 2L

Analog Port 2—left channel (Headphone)

2

GND

Ground

That's your three wires for the headphones jack.

 

Here's example of cable you can buy from ebay : https://www.ebay.com/itm/Internal-Motherboard-AC97-HD-audio-9pin-male-to-female-Extension-Cable-cord-40cm/312083838829?epid=888339804&amp;hash=item48a9a5776d:g:A~IAAOSwgQ9VpOLc

 

Cut the connector with the pins.. Get a male-female stereo cable, cut the male connector and connect the wires together.... job done.

Sorry for my late answer I was on summer vacation.

My mbo is Asus x470-f strix, I installed new audio driver from Asus website but I don`t see Realtek control panel, I only got Realtek audio console and when I try to open it I got "App can`t be open. There is a problem with realtek console. Contact your system administrator about repairing it or reinstalling it."

I plug headphones on back panel in Microphone but nothing happens, I only got in Windows playback device option microphone options. My windows is a mess (win 10 1703 version), I will reinstall it soon on newest. So if I got on new windows realtek program options I should plug my headphone to microfone and just set it to headphones in Realtek control panel? That or find audio adapter for Line in? I won t cut any wires (your second method), that seems to complicated to me.

I can buy used Patriot V760 kalih brown but I read that kalih brown are really bad, too much inconsistency and really bad quality control. Is that true? Maybe it is better to wait for some better offer? I am aiming for cherry mx brown because tactile feedback and that they are more silent than blue.

When I want to enter some video file on my HDD (partition D) I got this message:

explorer.exe

The specified path do not exist.

Check the path and then try again.

When I click on that file and select properties on locatio it is written this:

\\?\D:\name of the video

I tried change the letter of the drive but problem remains. When I copy file to C partition it works

I also got problem when I open Viber on my PC I got a message that CD is not in the drive? Then I clikc on cancle option and viber opens.

I scanned already with Malwarebytes, everything is clean.

In the back of my mobo I was thinking to connect headphones and 2.1 speakers and for that reason I will need audio adapter 3.5mm, something like this:

Can I buy cheaper one, will it affect sound quality? Or it is better to bought something like this: