EasonIDontKnowAnything

Yeh, that shouldn't be an issue.
 
Just be mindful of the drives / partitions your deleting during the Windows Setup process. I've wiped a few wrong drives in my time lol.
 

Just to be clear, the pictures posted are not BSODs, they are just error screens showing corruption. Your Sysnative collection contained three dump files from today and from the dump files it looks more like RAM than storage. RAM and storage can look a lot like each other because low priority RAM is put in the page file on disk which is treated almost like RAM. 
 
Crashing can corrupt the OS so reinstalling is worth a shot. If it BSODs during the reinstall, try reinstalling with one stick of RAM at a time. If multiple sticks have the same issue, I would switch my suspect to the storage. 
No physical damage, but the OS will likely corrupt more. 

Ooft,
 
That looks like a klanger!
 
Get a Win 10/11 USB made up and do a fresh install.
 
You could try a 'repair' but assuming you've got everything backed up in the cloud and your not risking loosing anything, do a fresh install.

Also smr drives aren't quite as bad as everyone makes them out to be, they usually only suffer with sustained random io. Sequential reads and writes are usually quite comparable to a similar cmr drive. For your use case, i doubt it would have made much of a difference.

I would also like to add that smr drives are actually quite interesting. Smr logic is actually quite similar to ssd logic. They have a cmr buffer that kinda acts like a fixed slc cache on an ssd. Smr drives also have "shingled zones" which act like blocks in an ssd. Logical block addresses, or lba's, are also decoupled from physical sectors on the disk, unlike cmr drives. Just like with an ssd, an smr drive has garbage collection, which basically means clearing out zones with stale data(lba's that have been rewritten(but not overwritten) somewhere else on the disk), and rearranging the good data into new zones. But this is also why their performance can be all over the place. Too much random writes, and the cmr cache fills up, and its forced to flush the cmr cache onto the shingled zones, causing the drive to slow to a crawl. This also happens on ssds, but isn't as noticable, as ssds are significantly faster.

If your looking for 2tb cmr drives, here are some model numbers you can look for and compare prices in your area, etc:
Seagate: ST2000VN003, ST2000NT001, ST2000VX016, ST2000VM006, ST2000NE001, ST2000DM009, ST2000DM006, ST2000DM001, ST2000DX002, ST2000DX001, ST2000NC001, ST2000NE0025, ST2000VN004, ST2000VN000, ST2000VX000, ST2000VX008, ST2000VX003, ST2000VM003
 
Wd: DS22HKVS-xxBELYx, WD22EJRX-xxBEMYx, WD22PURU-xxBEJYx, WD22PURZ-xxB4ZYx, WD23PURZ-xxC5HYx, WD20EARZ, WD20EURX, 
WD20EJRX, WD20EVRX, WD20PURX, WD20PURZ, WD20EZRX, WD20EZRZ, 
WD20EZWX, WD20EZEX, WD20EFPX, WD20EFZX, WD2002FFSX, WD20EFRX, 
WD2003FZEX, WD2005VBYZ, WD2005FBYZ, WD2004FBYZ. 
 
Toshiba: MD04ACA200, MD04ACA200N, MC04ACA200E, MG04ACA200E, 
MG04ACA200EY, MG04ACA200A, MG04ACA200N, MG04ACA200NY,
HDWU120, HDWA120, HDWD120, DT01ABA200V / HCS5C3020BLE630,
DT01ACA200V, DT01ABA200 / HDS5C3020BLE630, DT01ACA200 / HDS723020BLE640, MD03ACA200, MD03ACA200V, MG03ACA200, 
MK2002TSKB.
 
These should all be 2tb cmr drives. I know that's a lot, but hopefully it could be of some use for you, in finding the cheapest drive wherever you live.

Fair enough, probably fine just as you are then with anything that does need the speed on the main drive.
 
So yeah, just avoid SMR like the plague.

not as big as the impact of SMR.

I can upgrade to an SSD, I'm just not inclined to. They're just way too expensive even if they are better.
 
For reference, an 870 Evo 1TB is 70$ on Amazon. For someone working a full-time job on the lowest US minimum wage, that'd be about 5% of their salary. Locally the price of an 870 Evo 1TB would be anywhere between 20% to 30% of your salary. So yeah, there's a difference. What's a "clear" choice for some of you isn't so clear for others. On top of that, I'm still saving money for motorcycle gear and I have plenty of other necessary expenses to account for.

For programs, definitely go CMR.

The CPU is an i3-3220, but before this it was a Pentium G620. Intel DH61HO for the motherboard, and two sticks of 2GB RAM with release dates (according to CPU-Z) in 2012. I'm still using the Seagate drive that "came" with the PC, which is atleast 7 or 8 years old? The GPU is a GTX 750Ti I bought used, so around 6 or so years old.

For your Steam games you can just add your Steam directory that's on your HDD (labeled D drive after installing Windows on the SSD) as another Library Folder. Steam will automatically link any games installed on the HDD so they're ready to launch without any reinstallation.
Moving a Steam Installation and Games - General Troubleshooting - Knowledge Base - Steam Support (steampowered.com)
 
For other programs, you'll need to reinstall them once you have Windows installed on your SSD as most applications are not portable. 
 
When you're installing Windows, I would recommend unplugging your old HDD just so you or Windows does not get confused on where you want your Windows files to go. It'll also prevent you from accidentally formatting your HDD which I've done before. Not the end of the world, but you'll just save you the hassle of recovering partitions afterwards.

Nope. Those would have to be reinstalled. 

its basically the same as the other drvies, dramless sata ssd. Id get the cheapest of he drives still

Funny, I'm also in the op's position and happened to find the SP A55 too and it shows that is has a NAYA DRAM on the reviews and photos
One of the sources I found: https://www.enostech.com/silicon-power-ace-a55-256gb-ssd-review/

I'd argue they just don't want to get any potential lawsuits or complaints which could affect their brand-name. 

2003 Saab 9-3 Linear

 
Tagging the bf to share his wagon :^ 
@handymanshandle
 
 
 
I really really want one of these

Pretty sure he means Canadian Rupees lol

If you want decent yet over-the-top ram that's also red in colour, just get the OLOy WarHawk RGB 16 GB 3200 (2 x 8 GB) kit mate.
 
https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/pMn8TW/oloy-warhawk-rgb-16-gb-2-x-8-gb-ddr4-3200-memory-md4u083216bcda

Maybe your RAM is the bottleneck then?

You can still use all four slots. Dual-channel doesn't mean you can only use two out of the four slots.
 
 
God, this is infuriating.

If you're on a budget and don't mind NOT playing on high settings for a lot of modern games, then the i5 4460 is fine imo. With that CPU you probably want to get like a 1060. 
 
On Shopee, a 4460 usually starts at around RM300, and a used 1060 (or equivalent) will set you back by another RM500 or so. You could probably get better deals on Carousell or Mudah.my,  I generally prefer the former. I got my 750 Ti for RM150 on Carousell, whereas on Shopee it would've set me back by RM250 or so.

Look, if those gloves are on your hands, they are electrically part of you. If you're charged, the gloves are charged. Them being insulators and blocking sparks from your hands is a misconception; a PVC pipe is an excellent insulator but it can shock you pretty badly when charged.
 
Anti-static devices, like those bracelets, work by grounding the body they're on, in order to discharge them, rather than by attempting to "block arcs".
 
I should point out that static build-up on a person isn't very fast or effective (at least it never happens to me, unless it's extremely dry or I've been walking a lot on carpet) so usually you can get away with the good old "touch something grounded every once in a while when building" technique.

The RMx series is literally Tier A and at 750W it's more than enough for a 2080Ti and a 9900KS.
 
 

by his parents obviously.