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I recently built myself a new main rig (all working great, yay) and was intending to reuse my old CPU + Motherboard + RAM for a home server NAS machine. However, after transplanting the old parts into a new case, I found that the system would no longer power on. Not just no POST - it just literally does nothing. The PSU fan doesn't spin, the seven-segment debug display doesn't light up, nothing. Notably, the motherboard RGB does light up when the PSU is turned on, but this happens without the power button being pressed. I am running the board out of the case, sitting on a cardboard box with no drives/peripherals connected. I have already followed all of the recommendations here: https://linustechtips.com/topic/42440-readme-how-to-respond-to-a-no-post-or-no-power-up-situation/ My PSU fan spins up when I jump the pins on the main cable, so I don't think that's the issue. I have also tried both the on-board power button and directly jumping the power button connector pins with a screwdriver, so I don't think the physical button is the issue. In addition, I have re-seated the CPU (and inspected it - no visual issues), re-seated the RAM, switched from 2 RAM sticks to a single stick for testing, cleared the CMOS (no exposed battery, so had to just hold the on-board button for 12 seconds and hope that it cleared). None of that worked. My current theory is that somehow the motherboard was damaged in the process of transferring from the old case to the new. I inspected the board and found a spot on the back near one of the mounting holes where it looks like some small SMDs could have gotten scraped off (see attached images), but it's the type of thing that I normally wouldn't think twice about if I hadn't already exhausted every other route I can think of to troubleshoot. Another potential cause: I was initially trying to use a 750 watt PSU that only had a single EPS-12V 4+4 connector to power up the system (meaning that the 4-pin header on the top left of the board was unpopulated). I also accidentally plugged the left (unkeyed) half of the 4+4 connector off-by-one pin for one of the startup attempts (basically 6 out of the 8 pins were connected), but looking at a pinout of and EPS-12V connector that shouldn't have sent power anywhere that it wasn't supposed to go (it was oriented the correct direction, and the pinout literally just has all 12V on one side and all ground on the other). I also at one point tried using a second PSU with a jumper to power that unpopulated EPS 4 pin while the main PSU was connected to everything else, which I wouldn't expect to damage anything but I thought I'd mention. I am now using a 1000 watt PSU that has all of the correct cables, and I have tried reseating them all multiple times, so unless the process of going through all of those attempts with the other PSUs damaged something, then the only thing I can think of is the aforementioned scraped area on the back of the board. So, question time: 1) Is there any troubleshooting step that I've missed? 2) Is there a schematic of this motherboard available anywhere so that I can check what (if any) SMDs are missing on the back of the board? 3) If the scraped area on the back is the issue, is it something that I could reasonably fix (or pay to have fixed) or would I need to get a new board? I purchased the board back in 2018 so warranty/RMA is definitely off the table. And, as mentioned above, the RGB on the board still lights up when the PSU is connected, so the thing clearly isn't completely braindead. 4) Any other tips/comments greatly appreciated Components: ASRock X399M Taichi (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079Z8W61Z/) AMD Ryzen Threadripper 1950X (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074CBH3R4/) Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 3000 (2 x 32GB) (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VQJ9NPB/)

Thanks for the insight - seeing as they're going to have to purchase one for tv anyway, I think I'm still gonna try just to see how it performs, but they will most likely end up with an in-motion dish for tv and a stationary dish for internet.

Already looking - seems like most are marketed towards boats for whatever reason, but I see no reason why they wouldn't work in an RV. For sure ?

Thanks for the intel - again though, I would like to at least ATTEMPT a DIY option before resorting to a "Value Added Service provider," whatever that's supposed to mean ?

Fair point on the two-way street thing - definitely could be limited by the capabilities of the dish. However, as long as I'm using an appropriate modem for the task, I see no reason why it wouldn't be able to receive data from the satellite. Again, they already have really solid LTE, so this is a non-issue. The satellite would be in addition to their existing connection. Unless anyone on here has a better idea, my current plan is to tell my parents to just order one dome (for their TV) and then give me the opportunity to tinker with it once I have physical access. Hopefully this will reveal more info about the dome's capabilities, particularly on the "two-way street" side of things.

True. However, my theory with the dip switches is that there is a direct correlation between the values represented (in binary) on them and the band/frequency that the antenna needs to look for signals on, thus meaning that the dome is, in theory, able to connect to a wide range of signals, hopefully including that of at least one of the satellite internet providers. I had looked into that. However, both of them already have unlimited LTE on their phones, so it seems like a waste of money to just install another cell line, particularly considering the range issues.

Alright, I know this sounds kind of crazy, but hear me out: My grandparents have had an RV since I was very young, and one of the things that always fascinated me about their setup was how the satellite TV would continue working while in-motion. Recently, my parents have also purchased an RV, and have come to me for advice on tricking it out with TV and with internet. Obviously, I recommended the in-motion satellite for TV (linked below), but I have been unable to find a similar solution for the internet. There are plenty of satellite internet providers (ex. HughesNet and Viasat), but for whatever reason I have been unable to find a dish compatible with ANY of them that is also capable of operating while in motion. So, I was wondering if there is any way to configure and/or mod one of the aforementioned in-motion Winegard receivers (linked below) to connect to networks that aren't officially supported. Based upon my research, the dishes can be switched between DIRECTV, DISH, and Bell TV using an array of eight dip switches located under the dome (video linked below). However, the manual on Winegard's website (also linked below) provides absolutely no information regarding the internal function of these switches, and instead simply lists the necessary configurations for the supported platforms. The provided switch configurations do not, however, have any meaningful relation to each other, and thus likely have some greater relevance to the function of the dish. That's all I have so far. So, my questions for you all: 1 - What, if anything, is the meaning of the values on the dip switch array? 2 - Can the dish linked below, in its stock form, be used to connect to HughesNet and/or Viasat? (If not, would it be possible to modify it to be able to do so?) 3 - What hardware, aside from the traditional modem/router/AP would be necessary to make a setup like this, in-motion or otherwise, function? They'll want to rent as little hardware as possible from the ISP. Any and all feedback/advice for the project as a whole is more than welcome in the comments. Links: Winegard RoadTrip T4 In-Motion RV Satellite Antenna - http://www.winegard.com/roadtrip Video Tutorial for DirectTV to Dish Network Conversion: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kPtuwrFW06M Manual for In-Motion Satellite: http://www.winegard.com/help/images/c/cd/2452356.pdf

Just a final update in case someone finds this on Google: I was never able to fix the issue; making a new Razer ID didn't work. I have switched to the Logitech G903, but I would definitely still be interested in fixing the Mamba for guest use. I'm not sure whether I'm going to RMA.

the system should be able to handle all 20gb

Didn't fix the issue, but I noticed the wheel worked for a couple seconds while the profile was being created. Is there a way to reset Razer settings?

Yes - It's set to default (scroll up)

The scroll wheel on my Razer Mamba TE has recently stopped working. I've tried it on another computer and it still doesn't work, however, it looks/feels physically fine so I'm hoping that it's a software problem. Are there any settings stored on the mouse itself that could cause this issue?

have you tried turning it off and back on again? Also did you use express settings?

Both thge 1440p and the 4k use DisplayPort. The 1080p uses DVI.

I have a triple monitor setup: 1 1080p 1 1440p ultrawide 1 4k When watching videos on the 4k monitor, there is a very noticeable and obnoxious amount of delay between the video and the audio. This does not affect the other monitors. I have GTX 1080, so I don't think that the GPU is an issue. Is there something in software that I'm overlooking? Please let me know of any information that I can provide. Note: This issue is not exclusive to YouTube