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WispTheHusky

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About WispTheHusky

  • Birthday Jan 01, 1997

Contact Methods

  • Discord
    WispTheHusky#7901
  • Steam
    WispTheHusky
  • Battle.net
    Wisp#21685
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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    London, England
  • Interests
    Fluffy things and computers - although not together, because static electricity is BAD!
  • Biography
    An excitable guy from the South of the UK. I love my computing and sciences. My job is awesome, and I love all things Furry, although you might have been able to tell by now...
  • Occupation
    Working on behalf of Google

System

  • CPU
    Ryzen 7 3700X
  • Motherboard
    Asus Prime X370 Pro
  • RAM
    32GB Trident Z Neo RGB CL16 DDR4 - 3600 MHz
  • GPU
    EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 Black
  • Storage
    ADATA 1 TB NvME M.2, SanDisk 480 GB SSD, SanDisk 256 GB SSD, Seagate 6 TB HDD
  • PSU
    Corsair CX500M
  • Display(s)
    1x 2K 144Hz 27" (AOC AG271QG4), 3x 1080p 60Hz 24" (1x Acer B246WL, 2x Acer G246HL)
  • Cooling
    Noctua Box cooler and fans
  • Keyboard
    Corsair Strafe
  • Mouse
    Razer Naga
  • Sound
    Bose QC35 II headphones, Razer Seiren X
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro x64
  • Phone
    Huawei Mate 20 Pro, Midnight Blue

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WispTheHusky's Achievements

  1. Oh yes, of course. I'll avoid the OC to be safe. Although I doubt it'll ever reach 150W, best to be safe, and have the little bit of extra headroom. So - the question is a little different now... Any recommended 2x4 or 2x8 pin ESP PSUs? Cheers!
  2. Thanks for the reply. I was indeed thinking this. I know the max wattage rating for a 4 pin EPS is 155W, so even with some basic OC, it shouldn't exceed this (and I doubt both CPUs would ever be at 100% load), but the MoBo manual / manufacturer is very insistent on not doing this, and using 2 full 8-pin EPS connectors, even with a single CPU installed [source]. I guess that is to be expected - I just want to make sure it wouldn't totally fail to boot using a 4-pin instead of 8-pin for EPS. But I think 2x 4-pin EPS would be a good shout. Thanks.
  3. Hey guys, Been running some servers on my daily-driver PC for a while now, and after my work colleague gifted me a Supermicro X9DAi dual-socket server board, case, and old CPU, I thought it was about time I bit the bullet and build a dedicated home server. The issue is - I'm in need of a PSU with dual 8-pin EPS (CPU) connectors, and I'm not practically able to find any below ~750W or so (understandable, as you'd only usually need dual EPS if you're pulling a lot of power). The thing is, the build I'm going for will have a fairly low power draw. (2x 115W TDP CPUs, and a very basic GPU, used if I never need to troubleshoot anything / access the BIOS - it'll be managed via Teamviewer mainly). I don't think I'll really need anything above 350 / 400W. Are y'all aware of any budget dual EPS PSUs? I'm not looking to break the bank, so I'm not after anything fancy (non-modular is a-okay). The case fits regular sized PSUs. The only connectors I'll really need will be a couple of SATAs for the drives, 1x 6-pin PCIe for the GPU, a 24-pin MoBo and of course the 2x 8-pin EPS. No need for molex or loads of PCIe cables. Number of rails doesn't bother me too much, either. I'm just after something that works, instead of something fancy. I'm based in the UK. Any assistance would be appreciated!
  4. Given this a try (with both GPUs on different tests as the CPU has no integrated), to no avail. Thanks for the suggestions and time!
  5. No luck! MoBo is still within warranty, so that seems like the best option at this point, unless you can suggest anything else?
  6. Thanks for the super swift reply. I'll get him to give it a go, and get back to you ASAP! Cheers!
  7. Hi there guys, Posting on behalf of a friend, as (surprise, surprise), their PC isn't booting. Let me give you a rundown on what's happening, and we can go from there! TLDR version in the spoiler section at the bottom! So, Let's start with specs: MoBo: MSI 970 Gaming AM3+ CPU: Fx 8350 Cooler: 212 Evo GPU R9 270x (also tested an old HD 6870) RAM: 2x4 GB of Generic DDR3 @ 1600 MHz + 1x 8GB of Kingston Fury @ 1600MHz (Never had an issue before, also tried with just the 1x8 Kingston stick) PSU: OCZ ZT 750 W Storage (the friend didn't provide, but I believe): 256 GB Sandisk SSD (Boot drive) + WD Blue 1.5 TB HDD. OS: Win 10 Pro x64 BIOS Version: Unknown. Can't POST to find out! Now, here's what happened: The PC was running fine, until the GPU was taken out, and put into another rig. It worked A-OK in the other rig. Put it back into this one, and it refuses to boot. It won't POST. The GPU fans spin up, before turning off, and this loops until power is cut. The CPU fan is constant. No beep code and no onboard diagnostic display to check either, unfortunately (see attached video for fan behavior). Trying the GPU in another machine - no problem. Boots first time. Put it back in this rig, it fails to POST. We then tried with an old HD 6870.... It POSTed!... once. It now refuses to POST again. Taking all of the RAM sticks out of the MoBo and attempting to boot leads to the MoBo chucking out a no-RAM error, so that's a good sign it is at least trying to go through the "POST checklist". After taking a close look, it seems there is some residue on the left side of the top PCI-E slot, starting near the integrated heatsink. An initial inspection shows nothing like a blown/leaking capacitor, but there is no multimeter on hand to accurately check this currently. It appears to be coming from around the heatsink but doesn't quite seem as if it underneath it. Photo: My friend took a feel of the liquid, and he described it as a rather tacky liquid which was odorless (don't worry. I advised he should wash his hands as it could well be electrolytic fluid). So! Although it seems rather likely this is a blown/leaking capacitor, please let me know what you guys think is up, and any recommendations (above buying a new board) that might help? The thing that threw us off was the 1 random POST with a different GPU. Finally, the board isn't that old, so I would be rather surprised if a capacitor already. TLDR version: Thanks for your time! video-1515871270.mp4
  8. Thank you, everyone, for your input! Suspicions confirmed. I'm now £390 lighter - but a GTX 1070 heavier! Appreciate it guys!
  9. Thanks for the help guys! With all in favour of the 1070 (bar an AMD suggestion), I think that's my question answered! Thanks again for your help. Now... Let's just calm down
  10. Hi LTT community! I'm hoping you'll be able to help me decide on a GPU to get! I'm torn deciding, and think you guys should be the ones to advise from your personal experience! It's my first fully-fledged build, so could do with some guidance. The rig this is going into contains the following already: MSI Z97 Gaming 5 MoBo Intel i7-4790K processor 16 GB DDR3 1600 MHz Corsair HX620W NVMe SSD and SATA 3 HDD General uses of the machine will be: Gaming on High-FPS games (regularly) Very occasional Video Editing My day to day machine So far, I know that the pro of the 980 ti is that it (seems to) outperform the 1070 when it comes to Gaming Graphics, but the 1070 has the fact that it's newer and the extra 2GB of VRAM. I can't see much more between them really. In regards to cost, they're almost identical (at £370 for the 980 ti and £390 for the 1070), so there isn't really much difference there. Unless anyone can recommend anything else card-wise they think would be good around the same kind of price range! Thanks!
  11. Sounds like it may be mobo or CPU, but we want to make sure before you go out and have to fuss with new parts. Have you got another bench / someone you know with a compatible bench to test the CPU on? Any luck with the BIOS? Also - any error codes / beeps?
  12. Just looked at your video, and you're getting a few errors. Most of them seem routine. The only issue is the "53" code. This means it's detected memory / RAM, but it is saying none usable. Is every DIMM slot empty on this video? If not, it might be a RAM issue, if so, that seems good. Resetting the CMOS should clear any Overclocking settings anyways. Did you get a visual prompt on-screen to show the CMOS cleared successfully?
  13. Thanks! I have just tried this with a 1600 stick and I'm getting the same results. Took all the RAM out the MoBo gave me a memory error code, so at least the MoBo is responding to what's happening. It's just odd that it's working in the other machine. Other machine is also running a couple of 1600 stick too.
  14. Going by your manual (http://www.evga.com/support/manuals/files/140-SS-E177.pdf) the 32 POST code seems to mean it's hanging on initialization of the CPU (after checking RAM). That usually means something with the CPU isn't happy. I'd recommend at this point: Entirely checking the CMOS has been cleared and any OC settings are 100% gone. Booting without the CMOS battery in a couple of times is a surefire way of this. Reseating the CPU. Seeing if another CPU works in the system / the CPU works in another system. Going by the POST code, it seems to either be a CPU or a MoBo issue, but if you've been messing with OC, I'm leaning towards a CPU issue. Did anything abnormal happen before this? Any high temps or anything out of the ordinary (apart from you OCing of course)? Also. Try removing the ALL of RAM to see if the POST code changes. It should show post code 55. If so, this is a good sign for the MoBo. Considering the 32 code is happening after the memory checking, hopefully giving it an error before the CPU checks will identify if there's an issue with the board. Let me know how you get on!
  15. Doesn't sound fun! Been there before unfortunately. Do you know if the system is successfully POSTing? Also, are you able to get into the BIOS. Once in BIOS, does it behave any differently? Also - are you using integrated or external graphics? I'd recommend trying with internal and seeing if it persists, if you have the option to, of course! Let's see how that goes for now!
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