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AdvocateOfNyx

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Everything posted by AdvocateOfNyx

  1. I've had that experience before when playing around with overclocking but my bios settings were stock. Like literally bone stock. I opened it once to check that everything was good, then exited and discarded changes. Oh well though, I'm not complaining if it works!
  2. Well, there's good news and there's bad news and there's good news and bad news and good news again. Good news, coolers mounted, looks all good. Bad news, failed to post 3 times. Good news, it posted. Bad news, I'm on a black screen that says "uefi defaults loaded.". Good news, I booted in to Windows after all that. ?????? Absolutely no idea what that means. Anyways, idle temps are now in the 30s instead of the 40s. 0 energy left for gaming tonight, will update tomorrow.
  3. I decided to just go for it because I'm not tired and everything that could go wrong so far has gone wrong. I don't want to go into detail but I broke a motherboard/standoff screw. Like literally broke the head off the stem. I don't even know how that happens. I don't have replacements, this case came with 4 and I have 4. Now 3. RIP. Anyways, I'll update whenever I get this shit show figured out.
  4. I went with that orientation because the picture showed it facing that way in the instructions. So it's all good to rotate it 90 degrees?
  5. Admittedly I'm not entirely sure what I should be taking pictures of. I'll probably try to remount it tomorrow, it's currently 5am so not really up to it. I didn't really want to do this but it is what it is. Also, I'm not entirely sure what to take pictures of but here are two. I couldn't get my phone to focus correctly inside the PC but I think you can still see the contact. I do wonder if that little metal thing is supposed to be pushing down on the cpu to increase contact? Impossible to see without sticking a camera in there because the space is too tight but I did notice it now that I took the picture.
  6. If I had to guess probably not a whole lot lol but I am interested to see what you find.
  7. I kinda went for a larger sized pea, nothing too crazy but definitely not minimal at all. I don't know that I'd feel comfortable using much more than what I did. I only have the Noctua and the Cooler Master thermal paste available to me right now. I feel like I've read a million times that the brand of thermal paste you use shouldn't have a massive impact unless you're trying to min-max your temps and overclock, but I am willing to give it a try if nothing else works.
  8. Yes, I did remove the peel. I actually watched 2 different installation videos because the paper instructions were not super great. I am also editing my post to include a full part list because I realized I forgot to do that in the first place.
  9. NO! Lol, maybe I should have been clearer. My case had a CHASSIS fan mounted on the side panel right above the CPU heatsink which I had to remove. Still have the fan on the cooler, it's actually mounted by default on the side of the Hyper 212 Evo because there is no room on the top.
  10. I just upgraded to an 11600k, and it's been terrible as far as thermals are concerned. I've had HWMonitor open basically the whole time since the upgrade, so I've been keeping a close eye on the temps. I first was using an old stock cooler from a 6th generation processor but decided to pick up a Hyper 212 Evo after it hit 97 degrees after about 2 games of Apex. After installing this cooler, it seems to have not changed one bit. I played Minecraft with shaders for about 5 minutes before my CPU shot up to 100 degrees on two cores. Now, I DID have to remove a fan to make the 212 Evo fit. I only have 2 fans to my name, one of which sat above the CPU cooler on the case and no longer fit with the taller cooler, meaning I am now only running one intake fan and 0 exhaust. The fan is too small to be mounted anywhere else in my case. To be fair though, my intake fan is pushing air directly on the CPU cooler and my case is extremely open. It's a hand-me-down with none of the PCIE blockers and a giant hole in the front for a DVD drive that does not exist. I also tried with the side panel off and the CPU still got hot very quickly. What exactly is the next step here? I would say maybe it was a bad cooler mount, but twice? On two separate coolers? And the cooler will not move an inch, it's definitely tight on there. My next thought was airflow, but if I have the problem with the side panel off, I feel like it probably isn't that either. It isn't overclocked at all, just the normal boost to 4.5-4.9Ghz then back down to 3.9-4.1Ghz after a little bit. And yes, I did only use a pea sized dot of thermal paste (first left over Noctua for stock cooler, then included thermal paste with 212 Evo) in the middle of the CPU. Any ideas on what to do next? Edit: Thought I would include idle temps. Currently ranging from 40-46 degrees while typing this with HWMonitor open on my second monitor. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/MHPVqp
  11. He's 10, I'm the oldest by a lot lol. I'll definitely put him on Warframe, I enjoy that game a lot although it doesn't seem his style. I think he's tried Smite before but no reason not to try it out again.
  12. Just wanted to share because I'm really happy with how this turned out. For Christmas, my family decided we were going to upgrade my little brothers computer this year. He's using hardware that's pretty old, some old AMD processor that my uncle had laying around and an old GTX 760 that I had in a drawer. I know it's something (which is better than some people have it, especially right now), but he always complains about lagging in Fortnite and how when he's playing Bloons it gets too laggy for him to freeplay. Anyways, my parents bought him a case and GPU and I donated CPU, motherboard, and RAM from my system that was upgraded as well as an old power supply. It's all boxed up and ready for Christmas and honestly even though he is going to have no understanding of what is inside of it I hope he really enjoys it. Here are the specs: CPU: i5-4670k OCed to 4.0Ghz Motherboard: Asrock Z87E-ITX RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 16GB GPU: GTX 970 FTW PSU: EVGA 500w Case: Phanteks P300 TG Considering he doesn't even game at a full 1080p and instead a square monitor (don't worry, that upgrade is probably coming for his birthday this summer), I think this computer can run pretty much anything he's interested in and am very happy with how it turned out. It's also officially the best-looking PC in the house because that case literally FORCED me to manage the cables semi-well, something that I am certainly not known for. Anyone got some good, free to play recommendations that will help him stretch the legs out on his new system? Currently, he only plays Minecraft, ROBLOX, Fortnite, and Bloons but I think part of that is nothing else really runs well enough.
  13. Apex is kind of similar to Warzone, but it could give you some variety. I play that with my friends on PlayStation 4/5. Chivalry 2 is also super fun. You can make that game as casual or competitive as you like. One of my favorite gaming memories is everyone gathering around for someone to give a big speech before our little group charges into the enemies screaming battle cries and throwing rocks. The game really is what you make of it though. Back 4 Blood if you're looking for some PvE. Not much to say about this one if you've played Left 4 Dead, it's literally just the next game in the series as far as I am concerned. Lastly, No Man's Sky had a massive comeback and I find the game super fun. Please let everyone play through the tutorial by themselves though, I had some glitches that affected my whole run (although they may have fixed that now). Exploring the universe with your friends and establishing little colonies can be quite the fun time, though.
  14. You have some different options. 1. You could go the used route and look for a good deal on ebay and r/hardwareswap Pros: You'll get the "DIY" PC experience You'll have the choice of every part you want, like getting a case you think looks nice Cons: You will have to figure out what CPU/Mobo/RAM goes well both together and with your GPU yourself. You are welcome to ask on the forums, but often you don't have the luxury of waiting because if you don't buy it first, someone else will. You may end up missing just one important part and have to wait which will suck 2. You could do what the guy in the video said (any many others do) and buy a used office PC + a gpu Pros: Incredibly easy Often cheaper than building yourself (not always) Cons: Future upgrades will be very difficult You have to make sure the PSU that comes in the PC is powerful enough for your GPU, it has the proper PCI-E connections, etc. OR buy a new one (kinda defeats the cheaper part) Your PC will look like it belongs in an office Here is an idea for option 1: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/Px8xht - this details everything you would be buying new. RAM can go if you find a deal on used RAM, but I just grabbed the RAM the guy in your video suggested since you seemed to like it. Total is $175, leaving you with $225 for CPU, Mobo, and GPU. This post on r/hardwareswap from 2 days ago has a CPU + mobo for $75 + shipping. They're both spoken for, but it shouldn't be too hard to find a similar deal where someone wants to dump some old parts. I am currently using a 4670k and that 4690k is even better than what I game on. I can play pretty much anything, although it is limited to 60fps a lot of the time. Assuming shipping is roughly $15, that leaves us with about $135 for a GPU. BIG IMPORTANT NOTE: If you decide to go with a CPU/Mobo that's older like that combo I linked you, do NOT buy the RAM in the PCPartPicker list. It is DDR4, a newer standard than the older DDR3 RAM. DDR3 is dirt cheap, in that same post as the CPU and Mobo you can get 16 GB of it for $10 + shipping. Find it anywhere, don't pay too much for it. Look up the motherboard you're getting before you buy the RAM to see which type you need. For that price, you might be able to look at a GTX 960 4GB (sold here for $120 each 5 days ago), but I'd poke around and see if you can't find any other deals in that price range. Again, nothing here is "the best" for the price. It will definitely depend what deals are available at the time; such is the life of buying used hardware. For option 2, just watch that video a little further and follow his instructions for going on Amazon and finding a PC for sale with the CPU he recommends. Take whatever money you have left and throw it in to a GPU. Just make sure the PC has the right connectors if possible. Feel free to make a post asking if you are unsure and someone will try to help.
  15. The CPU in that build is worse than any Ryzen chip that has ever been created. He spends around $125 on CPU, Mobo, and RAM. I'd suggest raising that limit to at least $175 if not $200 to get a PC that will stand up to some newer games. Taking a look at his benchmarks it looks like the CPU hits 100% usage before the GPU, meaning that with a better CPU you should hopefully see better performance in a lot of the games he tested. I did like his video card finding suggestion, worth taking a look at although if you're getting a faster CPU, you could also stretch the GPU budget by $25 and pick up something faster to match it. Just $100 more here would probably allow for a significantly better PC experience. Edit: here is basically why you shouldn't buy that CPU
  16. I'm gonna second Tech87's suggestion to save up a just a little more. Additionally, looking at used hardware can definitely save you a buck if you don't mind the hassle. Supposedly, eBay will refund you for the part if it doesn't work. I haven't had to do this yet as most sellers are down to accept the return if you'll pay shipping. There is also r/hardwareswap. You can pick up an R5 3600 for $100-$125 over there if you're fast on the PM or a 2600 if you don't want to wait for a good deal to pop up. Similar prices on motherboards and they often come bundled with RAM. That's probably $250-$300 total. If you could save up another $100 or $150 to spend on your GPU, you'd be looking at a pretty respectable budget rig. You could pick up a rx 560 or rx 470 in that price range for sure. All of this is assuming that the $300 does not include a power supply or case, although if you need both saving up more might really be your only option. Unfortunately, the problem with this is that you can't just buy the CPU/Mobo/RAM now because the 3600 does not have integrated graphics. Theoretically you could go for a 3400g or Intel equivalent CPU, but I would say saving up is more worth it. The 3400g is pretty difficult to find and more expensive than the 3600 for less performance. Intel chips in this price range typically also perform worse than the 3600 but theoretically you could find a great deal. I suggest saving up a little more and spending that time poking around looking for deals. If you see a CPU + Mobo + maybe RAM combo, you could jump on it, but only do so if you're almost ready to buy the rest of your pc parts. Worst feeling is getting what you think is a good deal on something, then having it sit for 3 or 4 months and finding a better deal in that time period.
  17. Budget (including currency): Preferably $250 max, maybe $300 plus parts I already have Country: United States Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Fortnite, Minecraft, ROBLOX, Apex, etc. 1080p (or less) 60hz Other details: I'm grabbing some 12th gen Intel while it's cheap and passing down a 4670k to my little brother for Christmas. There is not a whole lot of time so I'm just trying to throw something presentable together. Here is what I have/don't have and other information I think is important: Stuff I have: CPU - i5-4670k w/ stock cooler Mobo - Asrock Z87E-ITX RAM - G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR3-2400 CL11 Memory Stuff I need: Case + fans - Parents are upset because his PC is super loud. Currently its server stuff passed down from my uncle's office with a GPU thrown in. Might be able to bum a normal office PC case off my uncle but if not something super cheap that won't overheat or be a pain to build in would be great. GPU - Right now he has a GTX 760, the only upgrade I could find that was cheap enough and actually significantly better was a GTX 970. They go for like $200-$250 on eBay BIN and $150 on auction. That's like a lot for a card that old but what can you do with GPU prices through the roof at the moment. I thought about an RX 570/580 but they were expensive, probably still haven't fallen enough from their mining days. If there's anything else around or under $200 to take a look at, let me know. Stuff I am not sure about: PSU - I have a Corsair CX 500 collecting dust I could use. I am not sure if he needs something more powerful to drive the 970. A Google search tells me 500w on average and a different PSU doesn't really fit in the budget but if it isn't safe to use then it just isn't worth it. Storage - I think he has and SSD, not sure if he needs more or is good with what he has but just out of curiosity (for both him and I lol) what is the cheapest way to pick up some decent SSD storage? Thanks for any and all suggestions!
  18. Not the kind of headphones I am looking for but thank you!
  19. The Arctis 5 plugs in to a desktop knob which they call the "USB ChatMix Dial" so I'm not sure how it compares. The dial plugs in to my computer with USB-A, then the headphones plug in to the dial with a proprietary cable. I use it pretty loud for FPS games, but I can't turn it up for music or it gets crackly and sounds bad. I will say if it didn't have the hissing and popping problem, I would turn it up higher than I do right now when I am playing music on these (rarely). I did some more research on my own and decided pretty much the same thing! I really liked what I heard about the 400SE so decided that I would just give them a shot and if the leakage turned out to be a massive issue, then I could always invest in something else for general use (maybe some IEMs?). Thoughts on these two amps/dacs compared to the Meizu dongle? Would you consider the dongle to have better performance than either of these? Amazon.com: FiiO BTR3K Hi-Res Bluetooth 5.0 Receiver/Headphone Amp Amazon.com: FiiO E10K USB DAC and Headphone Amplifier I don't plan on using these on the go, so I thought that the E10K would be a better fit if it performed about the same. I've come to like the knob with my Arctis, but I am not willing to give up sound quality for it. I just don't know how to tell how each of the 3 would alter the sound.
  20. One of the videos you linked and a lot of others online seem to say that they're very similar to the previous generation, if not a little worse, they're just built from more premium material. Assuming I am not super in to the fancy leather thing they have going on, is there any reason not to get the previous gen ones which seem to be a lot cheaper? Amazon.com: Philips Audio Fidelio X2HR Over-Ear Open-Air Headphone 50mm Drivers- Black : Electronics And... Honestly, I am just not a fan of them based on what I've read about them. I might be wrong and they could be amazing, but people seem to say that they just don't stack up to some other options. Have you happened to have tried the Drop X Sennheiser HD 58X or Drop X HIFIMAN HE4XX? Those seem more my speed but having not tried any of them I have no idea how I am supposed to know.
  21. Okay, so I just reinstalled Windows through the reinstall panel in Windows to fix a different issue. I decided to keep the one that kept your personal files because I did not want to have to take all my important school stuff off and I was scared that something would be deleted that I would forget about and I would be screwed. I have Game Pass so I had a bunch of games downloaded through the Xbox app and it seems they're stuck in some sort of limbo. On one hand, they are not detected by the Xbox app at all. I have tried to set the default location to there, restart the app, restart my pc, open games from the folders and see if they would launch, pretty much anything I could think of. I finally decided "okay, this is annoying but I will just delete them and redownload them again" but it turns out I can't do that either! The WindowsApps folder is protected. I managed to take ownership of it, I know enough about Windows permissions to do that, but for some reason it would not let me take control of the subfolders inside of it. I got "Failed to Enumerate Objects in the Container," which I looked up and found a solution for. So now supposedly I've taken control of everything and it said success, but when I try to delete them, it says I need administrator permission. I am logged in to an administrator account on my PC so I am not entirely sure what the problem is. If anyone has any ideas on how to either get the Xbox app to detect them or to get them just deleted so they can stop taking up 800gb on my drives I would love some advice. Thanks! Edit: just thought I should mention, Windows is installed to the C drive but these games are on my D and E drives. Also, I've tried deleting the folder from PowerShell run as admin with "remove-item 'E:\WindowsApps' -Force -Verbose" but it fails as well
  22. I decided to say screw it and reinstalled windows even though I didn't want to and it just works now. I got nothing else, that's all I did. I did this before and the problem eventually came back so I guess if it comes back up again I'll try to find a more permanent solution but at that point it may just be Linux time.
  23. My PC does not have USB C, only USB A and 5.1 surround ports so I'm not sure how to use that. Is there another option? Or would a USB A to C adaptor work? Not just about them also about me, I would like to have the extra privacy and not hear them screaming quite as loudly. I'm still open to open backs, but based on my situation I'd prefer closed backs. Without an EQ the bass is poppin which I liked for a long time, but once adding the EQ I like how I can hear all the different sounds like... separately if that makes sense. Instead of hearing bass + everything else, I now feel like I'm hearing everything coming together more evenly. I'd say I'm pretty loud on this scale. I like to not be able to hear basically anything outside of what's being played. Even on my Arctis 5 (current headphones I use for gaming) which are technically closed back but with terrible leakage I find myself cranking it up a lot. It's a cable for like a guitar amp, I think it's 6.35mm? to 2.5mm and then I threw a 6.35mm to 2.5mm adapter on the 6.35mm. I know it's kinda sketch, but that's why I asked about if there is a "right" way to extend it before I went on amazon and bought some random 2.5mm to 2.5mm extender to avoid the same thing happening.
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