AdvocateOfNyx

Okay, I went into my bios and pulled this thread up on my laptop. After scrolling through, I identified that the voltages I needed to tweak were: VCCSA Auto -> 1.260 DRAM Auto (1.35) -> 1.38 VCCIO Auto (1.25) -> 1.28 And there was no change. The PC still turns itself on and off again at 3200Mhz 18-22-22-42 Seems like my RAM does not like these speeds even at a slightly higher voltage.

Thanks, I'd been to DRAM configuration but not voltage configuration. So I'm bumping DRAM voltage up by like 5%? I don't see anything labeled memory controller which is something that was also suggested, does that have a special name? If that doesn't work, is enabling XMP but reducing the speed to 3000mhz a viable option? I can't imagine there's a huge performance difference between 3000mhz and 3200mhz on my current CPU. edit: accidentially said VRAM indead of DRAM, silly me

In advanced mode it's a similar situation. I found this screenshot online that demonstrates it pretty well. You can see at the bottom of this image how everything is just labeled "auto" under the XMP settings.

Yeah it was behaving very strange. When I turned the computer on it would turn itself off and on again repeatedly, never able to get into the BIOS or OS. Similar to my question above, how do I bump up the voltages if I'm not told the current value in the BIOS? Everything is set to "auto" and if I want to change it myself, I have to type in a number.

The way I enabled XMP was going into my BIOS and turning the profile from "auto" to "XMP-1". All of the settings are still set to "auto", so I'm not sure how to know what the voltage is being changed to. However, it was working for months prior to this issue so I'm not sure what would change suddenly in terms of motherboard settings.

Hi all, last night I turned my computer off to go to bed and when I woke up today it refused to boot. I identified that the problem went away when I reset the CMOS and came back when I turned on XMP. This system had been running for about two months with no issues before that. I tried to resolve the problem by updating the BIOS to the most recent stable release (2.70), but that did not fix the issue. I'm not sure exactly what to do. Everything seems to work fine with the RAM at it's default 2666mhz, but it won't boot at all with XMP 3200mhz enabled. Are there other settings I can tweak? Should I RMA the RAM? I've had it a couple months. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks! Specs Here: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/JrFHL9

Man, that's some bad news to hear but I'm glad I have a plan of action at least. In my past experience with CPU coolers, they've been really hard to work on. In all three computers I've built, I've had major issues that took days to resolve. Hopefully GPU coolers will be a little easier. Thanks a lot for the answer! I've been having some trouble getting any on here, hope the forums are still doing okay. Might be my problems are just a little complicated lol. A couple follow up questions if you don't mind: Do you know what would be the long term risk of not replacing the thermal paste for a while? I know someone that’s more experienced in this area than me and may be willing to help me out but it could take anywhere from a few weeks to a few months. Can I use leftover Noctua CPU cooler thermal paste on the GPU die or do I need a different kind because it doesn’t have an IHS the same way a CPU does?

Hi all, I've noticed that the hot spot temperatures on my Sapphire PULSE Vega 56 card are higher than they probably should be. I'm not super familiar with the "safe" temperatures for silicon, but as far as I can tell it shouldn't exceed about 100 degrees Celsius or more than 10-20 degrees Celsius over the rest of the card. I've noticed that pretty much immediately after opening a game, my hot spot temps jump to 105 degrees while the rest of my card stays at around 50 degrees. I bought this card used and the VBIOS has been flashed to a Vega 64, but I've disabled this by flipping the vbios switch and have confirmed it runs the Vega 56 VBIOS full time now. I've been having hard crash issues with this PC for a long time now and am hoping that fixing this issue will finally solve them. I've replaced the entire system outside of the GPU and PSU, so it must be one of the two and everything is pointing me towards the former. What can I do to bring hotspot temps down? I really, really do not believe I have the technical expertise to completely disassemble the card so I'd prefer to use that as a last ditch effort. I have tried to undervolt it using guides online, but every time it hard crashes it resets the settings I've applied in Radeon Software. This happens 5-10 times a day so unless there is a way to get those settings to stick around, I'm not sure that's a solution either. Additionally, I tried to undervolt and monitor the temps but they remained the same. The only thing that appeared to help was manually adjusting the fan curve to kick the fans up much higher earlier in the temperature range. Unfortunately, this was also reset on a hard crash. I have noticed that the fans do NOT spin up faster before a crash, but after the screen turns black, the fans begin to spin at 100% and the entire case gets really hot. It's like the GPU is continuing to work after the crash. I'm pretty scared of what would happen if I wasn't at the system and it continued to run like that. Thank you all so much! This forum is a really valuable resource and I'm hoping I can find some answers (finally). PC Specs: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/MHPVqp Other info: GPU drivers up to date (23.4.3 at the time of posting) Windows 11 Pro version 22H2

Parts List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/4WjNC6 Been having an issue for a while now but haven't found a good solution. I have an issue with my PC crashing while near idle. This happens both when I leave my PC alone for a little while (i.e. get up to go to the bathroom) or when I am playing a game that has low system utilization, but notably does not happen when playing more demanding games. For example, Wizard101 or Potion Craft will cause regular crashes, while Overwatch 2, COD, and Forza have never caused a crash. What happens is both of my monitors freeze and then instantly turn a solid color. Around 50% of the time it is grey, but the other 50% it seems to just pick a random color. The fans on my computer begin to spin up as well, although the computer doesn't appear to be getting hot. The only way to make it stop is to use the power button to turn the PC off and back on again. I have done many troubleshooting measures to try and solve the issue, so I'll list those here: Fresh Windows install (on Windows 10 and then moved to Windows 11) Replaced motherboard, CPU, and RAM Removed and reinstalled GPU Cleaned everything with a can of compressed air Used DDU to remove and reinstall graphics drivers If anyone has any suggestions at all I would appreciate it a lot. Thank you! Image of issue:

Would you suggest using a third party tool like this or the windows built in cloning tool? From what I understand, the third party tools are only required if you're moving from a bigger drive to a smaller drive, whereas I am moving from small to big. It also says that it's for big to small moves on the banner of their site. I have never attempted this before though, so I'm not really sure which would be preferred in my situation.

I would have no issues with doing a clean install if I could keep the programs I have installed on my current drive there. Unfortunately I don't believe this is possible, but please correct me if I'm wrong.

So I currently have Windows 11 installed on my 6+ year old 256gb SATA SSD and recently got my first M.2 drive. I figured for system stability and speed it'd be best to move my Windows install over to the M.2 drive and turn my SATA drive in to a games storage drive. I'm also running into issues where programs that default to storing things on the C: drive can't because of limited storage, so I'd like to turn my M.2 SSD into my default C: drive. Is there any way I can do this without causing issues or losing all of my installed programs? I've seen that you can clone your install to an external hard drive and use windows recovery to move it, but I've also read this can stability cause issues. I'm not sure how much of a big deal this is, but I don't want to cause any more stability concerns because I already have crashing issues (which I think are caused by my GPU but that's a separate issue). Thanks for any advice!

Decided to start a new comment because my old one was getting kinda crowded. I went through the MKVToolnix logs and found an error, so I will put that here too. [2023-01-09][14:39:44] #GUI#progress 68% [2023-01-09][14:39:44] #GUI#progress 69% [2023-01-09][14:39:44] #GUI#warning D:\Podcast Episode 1\2023-01-08 22-50-05.mkv: Error in the Matroska file structure at position 1612075931. Resyncing to the next level 1 element. [2023-01-09][14:39:44] #GUI#warning The last timestamp processed before the error was encountered was 00:21:07.667000000. [2023-01-09][14:39:54] #GUI#warning Still resyncing at position 2168964457. [2023-01-09][14:39:57] #GUI#warning Resync failed: no valid Matroska level 1 element found. [2023-01-09][14:39:57] #GUI#progress 100% [2023-01-09][14:39:57] Exit code: 1

Okay, I got Mediainfo downloaded and ran it through. Will also give MKVToolnix a try. I'm not 100% sure how to read what it's telling me, but the duration of the video is correctly labeled at 30 minutes. Here is the log file: Edit - When I extracted the video and audio with gMKV, the audio played fine but the video would not open. The icon for the file was a blank white icon. I thought this could be because I haven't purchased the $0.99 HEVC extension for Windows, but VLC has the HEVC plugin installed and it still won't open. General Unique ID : 164121945552547912098465822792757741662 (0x7B78BCA8903F3CEFBEE47FCF5BE3085E) Complete name : D:\Podcast Episode 1\2023-01-08 22-50-05.mkv Format : Matroska Format version : Version 4 File size : 2.15 GiB Duration : 30 min 11 s Overall bit rate : 10.2 Mb/s Writing application : Lavf59.27.100 Writing library : Lavf59.27.100 ErrorDetectionType : Per level 1 Video ID : 1 Format : HEVC Format/Info : High Efficiency Video Coding Format profile : Main@L6.2@Main Codec ID : V_MPEGH/ISO/HEVC Duration : 30 min 11 s Width : 1 920 pixels Height : 1 080 pixels Display aspect ratio : 16:9 Frame rate mode : Constant Frame rate : 30.000 FPS Standard : Component Color space : YUV Chroma subsampling : 4:2:0 Bit depth : 8 bits Default : No Forced : No Color range : Limited Color primaries : BT.709 Transfer characteristics : BT.709 Matrix coefficients : BT.709 Audio ID : 2 Format : AAC LC Format/Info : Advanced Audio Codec Low Complexity Codec ID : A_AAC-2 Duration : 30 min 11 s Channel(s) : 2 channels Channel layout : L R Sampling rate : 48.0 kHz Frame rate : 46.875 FPS (1024 SPF) Compression mode : Lossy Title : Track1 Default : No Forced : No

I tried Handbrake as soon as I posted here because I remembered that's what I used to use and it had the exact same issue, stopped at 21:07. Yeah, the original MKV plays all the way through with no issues in VLC.

Hey, I'm not 100% sure if this is the right place to post this so if this is wrong I apologize. Essentially, I was recording a podcast in OBS and 30 minutes in the video crashed and I got an encoder error. No big deal because I was recording in MKV so the entire video saved. I switched the encoder and recorded the other half an hour of the podcast. However, I can't use MKV files in Premiere, so I converted them to mp4 files in VLC. Unfortunately, the first half of the video was missing the last 10 minutes of video and audio capture. I tried again in XMedia Recode, but they both have the exact same cutoff - 21:07 - when they should keep going until 30:11. Anyone have any idea how to fix this? I can't import the raw MKV file into Premiere and it seems like the converters can't access the last 10 minutes even though I can play it back on my computer locally just fine. The only idea I can think of is to capture my VLC in OBS and re-record the video as I play it back, but I'm not sure if that's a good option.

Really? I am surprised to hear this recommendation about graphics. I thought Iris XE graphics were actually pretty good based on what I have seen. Definitely would love to get something Ryzen 6000 though. I'd love to hear about specific models if anyone has knowledge. There are a ton of models out there, so if there's one laptop that's for example known for having great battery life in particular, I'd like to check out that specific model.

I am able to bring my desktop for sure, I just am not sure if I want to yet full time or not. I am a game pass subscriber so I do have access to some game streaming services if I really just want to hang out with my online friends and play some sea of thieves or something. I'll definitely consider that discount, thank you! I do have OneDrive, the website says "Students have 1TB of OneDrive space allocated to them, along with access to all of the Microsoft Office web applications."

Hey guys, I'm headed off to college soon and looking for a laptop for daily use. I am going to try to bring my desktop PC as well, but I'd like something powerful enough that if I chose to leave it at home I can. Sometimes it might be nice to not always have the option to play games. I consider myself to be pretty knowledgeable about desktop computers, but not as great when it comes to things like cooling and upgradable memory slots in laptops. I'm going to school for biochemistry, and my college has not specified laptop requirements for this major as far as I know. The school website generally requires: 1. Have a minimum of 16GB of RAM 2. Have a Core i5/i7 or greater/equivalent CPU 3. Have a minimum of 500GB of storage (an SSD is highly recommended) 4. Have Windows 10 or greater (students may optionally choose to run MacOS) 5. Have an Ethernet port or adapter and Wi-Fi As for my personal requirements, battery life is at the top of my priority list. Other than that, I've never owned a nice laptop, so I really don't know what else to ask for. I would like to be able to do photo and video editing as well, it's just a personal hobby of mine. I also would like a nice keyboard. I will be connecting my own keyboard, mouse, and monitor in the dorm but I plan on trying to go to the library to get a lot of work done. Given that, a MacBook seems really appealing to me. Only problem is price. Speaking of price... Budget wise I technically don't have a real cap, but it's my own money and I'd like to spend no more than a grand of it. Cheaper is better if it can get the job done. Price is pretty much my number one concern, looking for the best bang for the buck right now. If anyone has any recommendations, I'd love to hear them. Thank you!

I am not 100% sure by what you mean by a heat in the monitor thing. Could you explain that please? No it cannot be returned sadly. Yeah that is his current solution. A black image fullscreened so the monitor doesn't turn off or just leaving it on the desktop when he leaves. Just really sucks when the power goes out or something and he was hoping someone would have a solution even though I said it's almost certainly a hardware issue.

This is my friends monitor, but he doesn't have an account here and I am helping him troubleshoot. He says this happens when the monitor is left off for multiple days at a time, and sometimes overnight but it's not as bad. After being off, when turned on part of the screen does not work, and the monitor eventually turns itself off. (Shown in attached video) Usually this is fixed by powercycling the monitor and PC until it eventually works. Typically, this takes about 10 minutes, but this time it has been broken for multiple hours and nothing seems to help. First page on Google led me to think it might be capacitors, it makes sense based on it happening after being off for a long time but I am honestly not sure. If anyone has any ideas about what could be happening, please let me know! cm-chat-media-video-15538b8ad-721b-53cf-857b-d4e4c530d01345200.mov

I'm in the USA if that helps with anything!

That's... not what the website looks like haha.

Yes, but remember that they rely also on OTHER people using Samsung phones to locate the tags. If you live in a place where Samsung phones are not common to have, you might not get accurate location updates. If you live in a place where Samsung phones are reasonably common though, they can be had for pretty cheap online. I got mine on sale for like $10, but I think they go for like $25 (USD) on Amazon without a sale.

This is exactly what I was going to suggest, but not so sure how it would work in a case. Some Tile products have adhesive, but that relies on someone in the home (or dorm) of the person who steals it having the Tile app downloaded whereas Airtags only rely on someone having an iPhone. There are also the Galaxy Smart Tags, but I don't know if I would suggest those based on how relatively rare Samsung phones are in the US among college-aged people (assuming that's where OP is located).