jobe1022

I think all this discussion is pointless but ill offer a different take. Perhaps cruise control off is objectively safer. Reasoning is I only look at my speedometer once as I drive through and usually I'm just matching the traffic speed. Now keep in mind the speed limit in a school zone or low speed zone is a Maximum speed lawfully allowed in a given area. But that doesn't mean its safest speed. Many times slower speeds then Speed limits posted are required. and Fiddling with cruise control making adjustments up or down would seem like more of a distraction then a benefit. I agree the more you keep your eyes on the road processing the environment so your able to react would be safer. Now your right ridding the break would seem safer with cruise control but that is a best case scenario. in an area where there are longer stretches with mostly no impediments. Worst case a school zone or construction site. Arguments could go both ways in all reality. My guess its easier to not include low speed cruise to not be liable for things happening during its use in low speed zones. Weather it be by software fault or malicious or ignorant use. While I don't work in the auto industry I do work in the software industry and one of the first few things we always assume is "The user is Stupid and Malicious". We write beautiful software that runs great if you run it the way we intend. Afterwards 90% of the development time is spent stupid proofing the software to ensure things cant be don't incorrectly malicious things cant be done with it.... You get the point

So this can be possibly a rather complex of an issue to track down. If all your connectors look good. and Your absolutely sure there is no Short Circuit. I would try easy stuff first. Like Reset the CPU/Ram... Disconnect all accessories. If it boots you can trouble shoot from there. One Possible thing it could be is CPU cooler applying to much tension on the motherboard (Ive seen motherboards run fine with a cooler on the outside. But once mounter fail to post). Take the motherboard out again and see if it runs outside.

Yeah its a good Idea to learn how to USE and RESET the BIOS before you start overclocking. Look for the BIOS Reset jumper on the motherboard.

move the headset to its on dedicated USB header block... I bet your over drawing USB bandwidth with the headset.. Causing it to have issues. If your on a powered USB HUB it could possibly be having power supply issues.

if your server are like mine where your just using the GPU to display the UI. Could always just Declock and undervolt the tar out of the Card. and just remove the heatsink.. if temps are an issue, just have a fan blow across it.

There is nothing wrong with presenting options to the OP. Just about any low end 10 series card will out perform a 550ti

if your going to spend money, You could always get a single slot graphics card. there are 1050ti available in single slot

if its all stock I doubt any bios setting would fix your over heating, short of under-volting your CPU... Does the actual radiator get warm? is the AIO in the recommended position above the or level with the CPU. Also its possible you may be accidentally recycling warm air back into the case. if you can post pics or your setup we could better see what is the issue

Whats your CPU utilization at when its Hot?

how many monitors are you looking to run? the 1060 can run up to 4 monitors.

Is the fan fully operational? is the PC in a spot where it can get fresh cool air constantly and recirculate hot air? Are you positive the heat sink is seated properly. Is there thermal paste? Did you have case fans stop working... Could the inlets be clogged with Dust?

Put the 1060 back in. Go in the bios and make sure that in the bios is set to igpu or auto.. my guess is its been switch to Pcie... worst case reset your bios to defaults.

Dont Sell it. Donate it the local Scrap Pile

it wont hurt to plug it into another machine to see if it work. . If your worried about you can use an external drive dock.

Look in the Bios to see if there is an option to enable on board iGPU with a secondary card. Though Like the Previous poster said. Good luck getting the ATI and Nvidia Drivers to work together. As for the power issue... If you have basically already replaced everything. Including a higher Rated Power supply. It could be something as Simple as dirty power going into the system.... Ive never seen it be as bad as what your claiming. But you can Always Pick up an AVR Battery Backup to clean your power before it gets to the rig...Id try simple stuff like replacing the Power wire in case its defective.