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PineyCreek

Member
  • Content Count

    2,258
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About PineyCreek

  • Title
    Veteran

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Directly above the center of the Earth (Texas)
  • Interests
    computers, video games, computer and network security, network equipment, good music (subjective)
  • Occupation
    Technical support for network appliances

System

  • CPU
    Ryzen 7 1700
  • Motherboard
    ASRock X370 Taichi
  • RAM
    G-Skill Flare X, 2x8GB 3200MHz CAS 14
  • GPU
    Evga 1080 Ti FTW3 Gaming
  • Case
    Phanteks Enthoo Luxe Tempered Glass
  • Storage
    Samsung 960 NVMe 500GB, Samsung 850 1TB SATAIII, 2xWD Black 5TB
  • PSU
    Corsair RMx 850W
  • Display(s)
    ASUS PG279Q, ASUS VE247
  • Cooling
    Fractal Design Celsius S36 AIO
  • Keyboard
    Razer Black Widow Stealth (it's alright)
  • Mouse
    Logitech G900 Chaos Spectrum
  • Sound
    MB on-board (Realtek)
  • Operating System
    Win10 64 bit on-board, others off USB load and VMs.
  • Laptop
    Work laptop: Dell Precision 7530...where they somehow shoved a Xeon CPU in there...

    USB-C docks are terrible.

Recent Profile Visitors

2,339 profile views
  1. What he said. For example in Media Player Classic you can modify the audio channels in the audio setting. It's just duplication, but you could copy the left right stereo signal to left right rear (left front to left rear, right front to right rear) and put both channels in the center. Faux-surround on stereo music that way.
  2. Did you clone the disk or the partitions? Might be something with UEFI...could try turning off secure boot or switch to legacy if those are options and see if anything changes.
  3. Crap, that makes it even harder to stomach in my opinion considering your consumer protection laws are awesome (when someone chooses to enforce them) but it still doesn't apply for self-damage...hopefully they'll throw you some help.
  4. What's the new cooler you got? I'm curious why if it says it's AM2/3 compatible it doesn't have retention brackets that fit. I'll note that while AM2/2+/3 are very similar sockets with compatibility between them that doesn't mean the retention holes/brackets are the same. The link you provided shows AM3, not AM2 or 2+. It's a possibility to consider (I genuinely don't know for certain).
  5. I don't think you're going to be able to do that via a security policy even with a security appliance using signatures to track Facebook logins. The profile login process is the same I believe (in terms of back end, it's just a different type of profile). If you blocked personal Facebook login via a security policy you would probably block access to the business profile. Someone else please correct me if I'm wrong. You may need something more hands on...like, use your personal Facebook profile at work repeatedly after being told not to, get fired. Record screen activity after expressly telling her that you are doing so (or whatever is allowed in your country in that regard) to verify. Your user doesn't have any reason to complain when the user has already shown they can't be trusted to follow the rules.
  6. ...that's a tall order. Standards are standards for a reason, and specialty components are expensive. Can we get a picture of your circumstances here?
  7. Have you tried turning it off and on again? I'm sorry...couldn't resist...
  8. Well, don't escalate unless you have to, of course. Support techs will immediately hate you if you're the type of person that screams you want the manager as soon as you walk in the figurative door. Actually I think that holds true most places...Karen at the coffee shop and all that. I wanted to apologize as well because I think my initial message may have contained too much...umm...hope. I'm sorry if this is the case. The warranty (honestly) will not apply here unfortunately as the damage was not due to a performance or manufacture defect. You won't convince any technician that you need those three parts because the problem came from the laptop itself. You just can't make up a story for that. Well, you can, and I've heard some amazing fibs...but yeah. Explain the circumstances, perhaps you'll encounter a sympathetic tech. I would at least make a small effort as it won't hurt you asking politely if there's anything that they can help out with as they may be able to help as a goodwill gesture. If you do escalate you might be able to nag them (POLITELY) to where they will help you with parts because it's cheaper than continuing to deal with you...or they may slam the door in your face because of obvious damage. Escalate politely if needed, ask if it would be possible to speak to a manager about the situation, sound apologetic while you do so (any frontline tech takes as much or more abuse as, well, anyone in the service industry...be kind). If you end up having to get the parts, then here are the factors to take into consideration: 1) If the keyboard is plasti-welded to the top plastic assembly, you will have to buy either the entire assembly from Dell's spare parts or be lucky enough to find it on an auction site. Unless you happen to have the plastic welding/melting gear and material which would be impressive. Either way, it's usually cheaper from auction sites if you can find the top piece and keyboard together anyway. Just make sure you get the regionally-appropriate keyboard for you (there's plenty of Spanish keyboards on ebay, for example, so be careful if you want a US keyboard instead, etc.) Example of US keyboard assembly with palmrest found: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-G3-15-3579-Recon-Blue-Palmrest-Backlit-Keyboard-N4HJH-0N4HJH-THF06/123967870322?epid=28035119524&hash=item1cdd0f9572:g:ER0AAOSwJJxdxKzd 2) Auction site or local computer recycling place will be the cheapest place to get the bottom piece and power plug. Examples: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-OEM-G-Series-G3-3579-Laptop-Base-Bottom-Cover-Assembly-Blue-RK9JV/254339048728?hash=item3b37c9e518:g:h2kAAOSwOFtdYExp 3) Compare pictures against the parts you have to verify they're the right ones, and part numbers if possible. 4) Sometimes sellers will overcharge on the power plugs because it's a common breakage point. Compare with Dell spare parts. 5) From what I can see you're looking at maybe $80 to $100 of parts on the high end based on those examples? Replacing the laptop is around $550. Replacing just the plug will be cheaper if you're ok with the laptop appearing like it saved you from a bullet. 6) Dell's service manual will help somewhat with disassembly/assembly here: https://topics-cdn.dell.com/pdf/g-series-15-3579-laptop_service-manual_en-us.pdf 7) Mismatch your top and bottom replacement parts' colors to make something uniquely you! Make sure the connectors on the mainboard near the damage area aren't damaged themselves first also. Decide based on all factors how much you want to spend if it comes to that. Now last and honestly, I haven't worked for an OEM PC manufacturer in years. Their policies may have changed. The big question that I don't know about (and you may ask when you call in) is if by replacing your cosmetic components and power plug somehow changes the terms of your warranty for future problems. It shouldn't (right of self-repair, etc.) but if you damage something further, that of course would be on you.
  9. You won't have a problem using a PCIE wifi card with a GPU here.
  10. Ah, you're right. I typed M.2 automatically.
  11. I stand by my initial statement though...You've already got an M.2 drive (presumably for boot, good for you). Performance difference in most cases between SSD drive form factors will be negligible and more up to the components used by the manufacturer and the quality of their process. Get a non-crap SATA III SSD and you'll be happy.
  12. Those slots can also do SFF wifi cards among other things. Also, M.2 doesn't guarantee nvme.
  13. I'll note that it's smart enough to tell it's NVMe and has an SSD wear percentage, so I doubt your fears are well-founded here. You could always update your BIOS if you're curious if that's an option for you.
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