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About Zack_Friedman

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  1. I'm really in love with NZXT's new Kraken Z63 AIO. The LCD screen is much nicer looking than Asus's Ryuo 240 AIO. The issue I have is that the case I'm planning to upgrade to only supports a 240mm radiator, and the Kraken Z63 is 280. Is there any way to adapt the bracket to be able to hold the 280mm rad assuming that it will physically fit inside the case? The case I plan to use is the the Roswill Prism S-White which allows the AIO to be mounted on the case wall instead of the front panel so it looks like it will physically accommodate the 280mm rad assuming there is some way to get it in there. I suppose I could also spend a little more money on the Kraken Z73 at 360mm and mount it on the bottom but I've never heard of a bottom mounted radiator before - don't seem like the best option airflow wise. Thanks in advance. )
  2. Hi all, trying to write a pretty simple batch scrip that asks the user how many times they want to run another batch scrip and then does so all in one console window. Here's the code: @echo off set /P number="how many machines? " set /A s=1 REM a variable referenced in the other script to indicate which instance the user is up to FOR /L %%A IN (1,1,%number%) DO ( beta.bat REM the other script set /A s+=1 ) I've gotten it to work with one exception; when the script repeats the other batch file, the console will output: (last line of the script) [whatever s equals] c:\users\(username)\desktop>( beta.bat set /a s+=1 ) (first line of the repeated script again) How can I get it to just go: (last line of the script) (first line of the repeated script again) without saying any of the other information about s or the name of the bat file any help is appreciated, thanks in advance
  3. Currently using a Samsung GS8+. I recently switched from Verizon's default messaging app Message+ (which was meh) to Google's own Android Messages. I like the look and feel of Android Messages way better. it looks cleaner, newer, and has a really great web client for texting from a web browser. The problem that I've been having though is that the app is literally constantly crashing. In the last 4 days alone, the app has crashed 39 times. The crashes are minor. When the option to "wait" is selected usually it recovers, and when I "Close app" it automatically relaunches fairly quickly. This was only really a minor annoyance until recently, when all of a sudden the app will report that messages have been unsent even when they have, and people I text are telling me that they're getting duplicate texts. So far I've tried uninstalling and re installing, wiping the app cache, wiping the app data, starting the device in safe mode, disabling carrier messaging apps, even deleting the cache partition. The only thing that worked was deleting the cache partition but then I was added to a group MMS and it crashed almost immediately. I would like to avoid going back to the Verizon app if possible so I want to make sure that I do anything I can to get it to work. Google doesn't provide support for the app, Samsung told me to just give up and use their default app. I'm stumped. Any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks in advance.
  4. Try unplugging the computer from power (but keep the switch on the power supply in the "1" position.) Press and hold the power button for about 30 seconds or so. switch the power supply off and back on, plug the system back in, and try booting. This should clear any errors in the CMOS by totally resetting it. That means that if your computer does finally POST you may see some weird screen that doesn't look normal. Windows may even boot into an incorrect resolution or GPU setting. Don't freak out. It'll clear settings but you should't lose any data. It doesn't sound like the PSU died; if it did the fans would not spin at all (typically. Anything is possible I guess) but it sounds more like an issue with the motherboard like a short or an error in the CMOS. Good luck
  5. According to Intel's site the i5-6600K has a base frequency of 3.5GHz. You mentioned in your original post that it was 4.5GHz, Not sure if that's a typo or if you're overclocking. If its an overclock, try running the CPU at its base frequency just to see if that maybe fixes the issue. If it was just a typo then look into driver issues. Boot into safe mode (which boots only windows core drivers and not drivers from third party vendors) from there you can launch this handy tool from a flash drive. It will read your log files and tell you which driver (you may need a quick google search to match the .exe to the actual hardware) is causing the issue. To boot into safe mode from windows 10 (assuming you can actually get to the OS) hold down the shift key while clicking Start>Power Button>Restart. after a restart you will see options to enter safe mode. If Windows keeps crashing and you cannot get to the OS you will have to boot from your installation media and navigate to the "advanced" option. safe mode should be an option from there. If you do wind up finding a problem driver(s) uninstall them from device manager and reboot normally (not safe mode) Windows will automatically install some base level compatible driver for most modern hardware. At this point you could get a current version from the OEM. Make sure to avoid beta versions if you can. Good luck
  6. I have been experimenting lately with wake on LAN, specifically, I used IFTTT and an android application called Automatic Premium to program my Google Home Mini to send a WOL magic packet to my computer when I say "Hey Google, turn on my computer." Initially it worked great. The computer boots right up and the Google assistant even replies with "Firing it up" but I've noticed that after my computer is left off for a significant amount of time, say, overnight, the system will not power up from the magic packet. I've run some packet sniffing to verify that the magic packet is in fact being broadcast on my network and it is, ruling out the router and the back end programming. I'm at my wits end in Google searches trying to figure out why the process works immediately after shutdown but not a few hours after shutdown. The BIOS is set to have WOL enabled and within Windows, my network adapter is configured to allow WOL with a magic packet. Has anyone had a similar experience? I'm sort of a networking noob so I wouldn't be surprised if there's something simple that I'm doing wrong. Any help would be appreciated, thanks in advance.
  7. Lo and behold that worked and fix the problem. Thanks a lot! that's hours of eBay searching an about 50 or so dollars saved
  8. Yeah I've had a few of those obnoxious mobos that don't want to boot USB, although normally they have been laptops. CD sounds like your best bet. the Ubuntu ISO can fit on a regular blank DVD. I recommend ImgBurn to make the media, its free and works great.
  9. wow look at that. There is a Single bent pin in the 1155 socket. Its not crazy and even looks like I might be able to bend it back into place very gently. Thanks, I would've never thought of that. what would be the best tool for fixing that? magnifying lens and a tooth pick or something?
  10. I've made a few of these USB bootable drives using the same version of Ubuntu with Rufus. with each time, Rufus would alert me that it needed to download some additional files in order to work with the Linux kernel. If you didn't see this message, make sure that you're using the latest version of Rufus. Also, sometimes its doesn't work well with USB 3 or higher. Try using a regular USB 2.0 thumb drive on the latest version of Rufus. good luck.
  11. I'm building a new PC with parts that I had lying around. One of those parts was an MSI h81m-p33/w8 motherboard which was working absolutely perfectly in the previous system it was used for (which was scrapped for parts) I'm now running into a strange problem. Whenever DIMM slot one is populated, the system does not POST and goes into a power cycling loop (something that occurs when the Motherboard has no RAM inserted). When DIMM slot two is populated, the system boots perfectly and loads Windows no problem. When both slots are populated, the same issue occurs with the power cycling. I've tried different RAM and even a stick of Crucial Balistix Tactical Tracer RAM with on board LEDs just to verify that the DIMM is even getting power (which it is). The DIMM slot shows zero signs of any physical damage so my main question is; is there anything that I should troubleshoot before totally replacing the board? things I've tried thus far: 1) removing the board from the computer case and placing it on a non-conductive flat surface 2) Different RAM 3) BIOS update 4) resetting to defaults 5) resetting CMOS none of the above made any difference thanks in advance, Zack
  12. MB: Asus P8H61-I R2.0 CPU: Intel core i5 3330 RAM: 8GB kit (2x4GB) Crucial Ballistix Tactical Tracer DDR3-1866 storage: SanDisk SDSSDA-120G 120GB SSD PSU: SilverStone 450W SFX 80+ gold Fully Modular PSU case: SilverStone ML08-H see attached photos for cooling/case layout. Those two tiny fans are loud and I'd like to get rid of them if I can. without the extra two fans the CPU idles at around 120F and hits up to 135-140F and with the fans the CPU idles at a slightly better temperature of 112F and hits 130F.-ish max I'd like to get that down if possible. You can see from the photos that the heats really has nowhere to go.
  13. What is the best (best here meaning most efficient) Aftermarket CPU cooler on the market that is 58mm or smaller in total height? In a current setup of mine I have an Intel core i5 3330 in a Silverstone ML08-H slimline case with the Intel stock cooler. My problem is that the Intel stock cooler blows air downwards towards the heat sink/CPU but because of the orientation of my case and motherboard, the air basically just sits on the heat sink, trapped between the case edge, RAM, and power supply. My CPU is running pretty warm at idle and i have attributed that to this design flaw because in a previous build with the same CPU and stock cooler it ran much cooler. I've tried attaching extra fans to the case with zip ties (because the ML08-H does not have case fans) but that just made it sound like a lawn mower. I believe that If i get an aftermarket cooler, i could reverse the airflow direction by simply turning the fan over, sucking heat away from the heat sink and out of the case rather than blowing room temperature air onto it which would sit there and heat up. So back to the original question, what would be the most efficient cooler for the job. so far I've looked at this, but honestly I don't know what to be looking for other than detachable fan(s). thanks.
  14. If I told my router to reserve the IP address 192.168.1.xyz, and then set the NAS to have a static IP of 192.168.1.xyz as well, would the NAS accept that reserved IP as static? (assuming the the NAS's MAC address was included in the IP reservation on the router's end)
  15. This may or may not be a silly question. I have a 2Tb Western Digital MyCloud NAS running My Cloud OS3 that has been connected directly to my router since I bought it over a year ago with zero problems. Yesterday my router had a malfunction of some sort and the only way to fix it was to reset it to factory settings and reload the configuration file. however, because the NAS was using a dynamic IP from the DHCP, after the restore process the IP address changed which caused some minor confusion after I tried reconnecting to the mapped drive. My router (Verizon Fios Quantum Gateway manufactured by Actiontec to my knowledge) allows my to reserve IP addresses. If i were to reserve an IP address for the NAS, would I just leave it at that? or do I have to switch the NAS from dynamic to static IP. (I am not entirely sure of the difference between reserved and static IP's) Thanks