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AMDGrill

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  • Content count

    80
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About AMDGrill

  • Title
    Member
  • Birthday June 5

System

  • CPU
    Intel® Kaby Lake Core™ i7-7700HQ
  • Motherboard
    Intel® HM175
  • RAM
    16GB DDR4 2400MHz
  • GPU
    nVIDIA® GeForce® GTX1050
  • Case
    Laptop
  • Storage
    1TB WD Blue + 256GB Samsung SSD
  • PSU
    Laptop
  • Display(s)
    17.3" Laptop Display
  • Cooling
    Laptop cooling
  • Keyboard
    White Backlit keyboard
  • Mouse
    Wireless Gaming Mouse
  • Sound
    Logitech LS21 2.1 Stereo
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    World
  • Interests
    Motorcycles, Gaming
  • Biography
    I once played a game for 3412 hours in 11 months
  • Occupation
    Linguist

Recent Profile Visitors

244 profile views
  1. So, imagine this scenario, you're in college, you brought your laptop with you to game, except, there's one problem, you're limited to the internet connection that your university is providing you. On such network, speeds are limited to 5mbps per persona. If this was the case, would you use your laptop's built in Intel(R) Dual Band Wireless-AC 8265 to connect to the said network or an external USB adapter, an AirtTies 2310, that can support higher dB output? The building is fairly old and even tho the Wireless-AC 8265 is faster in theory(>800mbps) whilst the 2310 can only support up to 150mbps, I think the higher dB output on the external adapter will yield better connection quality? Network is a derivate of eduroam, I believe it is international. The protocols are EAP/PAP - TTLS. Which one would you use, the Intel(R) Dual Band Wireless-AC 8265 or the AirTies 2310?
  2. Laptop ram recommendation

    I'm glad someone caught it
  3. Laptop ram recommendation

    We have 3 high end gaming laptops in the household and all 3 of them uses different brands of RAM. Mine uses A-Data, at first I was sceptical but it has been running fine, also Crucial is fairly reputable and competitive, you see their products being used on high end systems on channels like Jayz and Linus all the time, I'ld say go for it, as we are kinda past the point where cummy brands can't exist anymore, on the online market at least, IF you are shopping from a credible store.
  4. Yes, I have reinstalled many of the software and drivers after the update, doesn't seem to work. Update: Fixed. Deleted the following from regedit and both problems are gone. On a side note, Intel, get your bricks together. [HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\Directory\Background\shellex\ContextMenuHandlers\igfxDTCM] @="{9B5F5829-A529-4B12-814A-E81BCB8D93FC}"
  5. As the title says, ever since I updated my Windows, I am having the trouble following: Incredibly slow response time on desktop Right Click Games going black screen when played in Fullscreen. Happens in GTA V, Titanfall and Guardians of Orion Tried a few things online and can't seem to find a solution, so where better to go. System specs summary: i7 7700HQ 16G DDR4 2133 256gb SSD + HDD GTX 1050 All drivers are up to date. No bloatware. Was not a problem before the update, and the PC is in the same condition. No hardware changes, no new software. Any help is appreciated
  6. Need help on network optimization and more

    Good to know, altough I have no idea how to update the firmware on my router or even if I manage to do so, I don't exactly know how to set it up. Is there a way to back up current settings? Does routers support that? I've been digging through my settings and couldn't find anything of such in the router config. ** Just searched my router on dd-wrt and apparently mine is not supported.
  7. As title says, I need some help on network optimization for my fiber connection. I have a few questions regarding the matter; - Is it possible to prioritize one Ethernet port over another? - Is it possible to limit speed per user? - Is it possible to prioritize wired connections over Wi-Fi? - What are the best parameters to use in the following Wi-Fi settings: > Beacon period > RTS threshold > DTIM period > Frag threshold The router that I use is a Tilgin HG1522.
  8. Gta V Problem

    Try turning MSAA and FXAA off, also try disabling Reflection MSAA, disable / turn off any settings in Advanced Graphics tab. Might be a new update for your graphics driver which may have changed the settings for your game (Something like GeForce Experience Optimized Settings maybe, does AMD has that? I don't know.)
  9. I do not wish to recover any data from them, I'm just curious if the current unreadable state of these cards are caused by a filesystem error that can be fixed so that I can use them again. Is it possible?
  10. Best "light" games

    Orion: Prelude is tolerable if you'ld enjoy shooting at dinos and have a few friends who will play it with you.
  11. They were fairly new aswell, If I recall corrently about 3 and a half months old. I'm no expert, but are they suppoused to die so soon?
  12. As title says, two of my Kodak memory cards died a day apart from each other while still being used on their respective devices. Both are 16gb units bought from the same place, 2 of 4 cards. The other 2, one being a 32g in my Drift HD 1080 and the other one, 64g in my camera, are still working fine. These two however, died a day apart from each other and currently no device or PC can recognize them. When I plug it into my Asus K55, the PC stops responding, when I plug it to my higher end notebook, it shows nothing in Disk Manager. Is there a way to revive these two, or how to avoid further occurances as such? All assist and opinions are appreciated.
  13. Considering the major inconviences I've had with this particular brand and all the frustration sending this to the warranty 3 times in the past, and paying for parts that they claim to fix the 'problems' I was having with the device, I was expecting them to match the A-Data stick for another A-Data one. You could say I am priveliged at this point because of all the things they have put me through. You'ld understand if you knew the full story. I don't want them to necesasrily match the A-Data one, whichever that performs better, I'll ask for a matching one. And no, they don't have to search the internet for a matching stick. Is that how distributors work over there? I'm pretty sure they have dozens of sticks lying around as both the A-Data and GSkill option is still listed in the devices on their website.
  14. Correct, GSkill was the added one. I'll not pay for a new stick, I'll call them to get them send me a matching stick of the better performing one, switch out the other one and send it back to them, at this point they are basically obliged because of my previous issues with this device-- just recently got it back from the service, which was the 3rd time in less than two months ( They couldn't solve my issue, had to send it over and over again )
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