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About JSUSoutherner

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  1. It's been a while. I'm sorry if this is considered grave digging but I wanted to come back and show off my finally completed rig. Full Specs: -Intel i7-7700k -Asus GTX 1080 Strix -Asus Strix Z270E -16GB (2x8GB) G.Skill Trident Z RGB 2400MHz -Corsair H100i V2 -Samsung 960 Evo 250GB NVMe SSD -WD Blue 2TB -Corsair RM750x -Corsair 460x RGB -Corsair Strafe RGB (Mx Cherry Brown) -Corsair M65 Pro RGB -Corsair Void RGB Wired w/ 7.1 Surround -Acer Predator XB241YU So... how do you think I did for my first build?
  2. Cause like I said, I'm cheap and I'm only looking for a band-aid solution until I get my new rig up and running in a couple months. It's not worth dumping money into.
  3. With both sticks. The offbrand stick The Kingston stick Where to from here?
  4. So I have a laptop I got 4 or so years ago my junior year of high school that has been my main PC for school and stuff for a while. It's a Toshiba Satellite C855-S5306 which is currently running Windows 10. (Yes I know it's a terrible Wal-Mart computer, I'm building a new rig after my tax refund comes in. so there.) ANYWAY, It was running like garbage so I reset it last week. Still wasn't running too hot so I opened it up and found out that my idiot self from 3 years ago (before I knew how computers worked) decided two non-matching RAM sticks was ok. I'm not even sure if they're the same speed but they are both 4GB DDR3 sticks but one is a Kingston stick and the other is from a company whose logo I do not recognize. Anyway, since I'm throwing down money on a new system soon I don't want to have to go buy a new memory kit or anything. My question is if there a program where I can see how these sticks work together? Like can I test them and see their speed and if they somehow are running in dual channel and where I can test each stick to see which is faster should I have to take one stick out. What should I do with these things? I'm pretty much using this computer for light online class work (MS Office stuff) and I'm going to see if I can do light AutoCAD (we have to draw a house for our final so that's the heaviest project I'll need it to do) work with it for my engineering class to hold me over until I get something better. Suggestions? Thanks
  5. So basically using the PWM hub on the newer H440 will control the fan speeds of all the case fans attached to it as long as I have the hub itself in a PWM header on my motherboard?
  6. I was under the impression that only the PWM fans on the H115i wouldn't be at 100% all the time? If I have the rear exhaust AF140 and the three NZXT case fans in the front running off the PWM hub on the H440 will it control all the connected three pin fans or do they all just run full speed? Does just the H115i not running at full speed make that much of a difference?
  7. When did you get yours? And from where?
  8. So I'm still doing homework on my upcoming build (it will be my first build) and I'm trying to figure out a way to get positive pressure in the case. I was originally going to stick with the front 3 FN V2 120mm fans that come with the case and put in a H115i and a Corsair AF140 as a rear exhaust fan but a bit of quick number crunching tells me I'll have quite a bit of negative air pressure in my case and I don't want dust. Here is the CFM ratings on what I have so far: Intake: 135CFM - 3x NZXT FN V2 120mm (45 CFM each) Exhaust: ~170CFM -Corsair H115i (105 CFM) -Corsair AF140 QE LED (66 CFM) I looked at Corsair's SP120 high performance fans for the front intake but I hear they are quite loud. Also, I'll be removing all of the hard drive bays except one for less resistance against the fans. Should I go for better fans in the front or will I even have a problem with dust and I'm just overthinking this? If I do go for better fans I want them to be relatively quiet. Thoughts? Thanks
  9. Yeah I noticed after I posted. I was hoping they were RGB. I'm trying to find myself a 140mm fan that I can sync with Aura but have so far come up empty. Oh well.
  10. Answered my own question.
  11. Thanks for the link!
  12. Title says it all. Specifically, the 60cm magnetic RGB strip. Trim as in cut the end off to make it shorter. Thanks
  13. I saw a video on BitWit's channel from CES and they were looking at the new Z270 Asus boards and they had the new Trident Z RGB RAM and it was synced with the MB LEDs. Hopefully that's a good sign. RAM at 3:45 and 4:40
  14. Because I'll probably end up getting a second 1070 eventually and putting them in SLI. Which wouldn't end up being too much more than a single 1080 cost wise. Plus, the benchmarks I've seen on different games doesn't really merit the extra $200 for me for the 1080.
  15. So I'm planning on building my first PC in a couple months. Despite all my homework since it's my first build I'm sure somewhere in here is something that doesn't make sense. Anyway, here's my list, tell me what sucks so I don't do something stupid and buy stupid things. Meat: - Intel i7-7700k - Asus ROG Strix Z270E - Asus ROG Strix GTX 1070 OC - 16GB G.Skill Trident Z 3200Mhz (white/silver) - NZXT H440 Case (white) - Samsung 960 Evo M.2 256GB - WD Black 2TB - Corsair RM750x - Corsair H115i - Asus ROG Swift PG279Q Shiny Things: - Corsair AF140 White LED fan for rear exhaust - 2x Corsair SP140 White LED fans to replace the stock AIO radiator fans. - CableMod Cables (just ones that will be visible, not a full set) All White - 24-pin ATX Cable - 4+4 EPS - 8-pin PCIe - SATA Data Cable - CableMod RGB LED magnetic strip Thanks.