Tacos4all

I KNEW I was forgetting to mention something before posting this haha. Unfortunately I am on the latest BIOS F20b already, but thanks for the suggestion. 😞

The DT 1990's were well outta my price range. I ended up trying out both the Tygr 300R and the 560S (thanks Amazon next-day shipping). I found that while the 560S were an improvement over the 6XX's for directional audio (with no EQ's or virtualization), it wasn't enough of an improvement to justify buying them. I could see the appeal for large scale games like a Battle Royale where it's less about footsteps, but more about determining a far off location from a sniper shot or something. The footsteps were certainly more defined, but when a target was real close, I did have a harder time pinpointing where they were coming from. 

Ultimately I have decided to go with the Beyerdynamic Tygr 300R. The imaging on those were far and beyond any other headset I have tried to date. While the overall sound quality was lesser than the 560S, it's a fair price to pay for the much improved directionality, particularly in close quarters. 
 
Thanks for the advice and your time, cheers!

Sennheiser HD 560S. Wallhack tier for FPS/TPS MP games.
Alternative: Byerdynamic DT 1990.
 
I'd recommend checking Fresh Reviews on Youtube, his videos about headphones for gaming and IEM-s for gaming.

yea, if you stream with the cpu you can probably just buy like a 3600 and a super cheap gpu for video out 

Thanks for the info! I think it was just a software issue then. I have noticed that HWMonitor has not been updated since comet lake came out. But HWiNFO64 showed the temps!

Speccy hasn't been updated in ages, don't use it.
Update your BIOS (if you haven't already) and try checking temps using HWiNFO64.

A look at "older" (probably post ultrabook introduction - sandy bridge and newer) used premium laptops (eg. T or X series thinkpads, XPS, Latitude, MBP/MBA) and comparing them to new alternatives (in terms of build, input devices, screen, i/o, features, ease of simple upgrades (ssd and battery would be important), performance etc) in the same price category could be interesting.

I apologize for the late reply, but thanks a lot for taking the time to give a long and concise answer. It's people like you who makes this community so great. Cheers!

I've used my commander pro in my main rig for a while now and in a couple different ways. Before my major upgrade I would use the temps directly from the gpu/cpu(in iCUE) to control my fans for my rads even though the temps for the cpu would fluctuate quite a bit. After the upgrade I use temp probes on the water loop to get more stable temp readings.
 
 

Anything from Logitech G series
 
Its has wireless and wired options for most preferences

Okay, here's the cleanest way I can personally recommend cleaning:
Take apart the keyboard completely, keep the purely electronic components separate, and clean those alone with the alcohol straight from the bottle, and be sure to rub off any remains with cotton balls and the softest paper-towels you have... and clean everything else that's not electrical as you would for delicate dishes; light soap and warm water (NOT too hot, but not cold either) and then let it all dry overnight and you should be fine.
 
The only thing to really be careful of is not to get anything on the cable(s) or in the connectors-- those don't drain well-- I speak from experience.

Yes,  you could buy a new drive, but if this one isn't working, that likely won't solve your issue. This sounds like some sort of BIOS issue.
 
As @Tacos4all said, does the BIOS see the drive? If you are using the same motherboard, there is no reason for this to have happened, and is somewhat unlikely the HDD just decided to die as you swap CPU and GPU. 
 
But, if you do go the route of needing a new drive, I wouldn't get a harddrive, definitely get an SSD. But I would try and figure out this issue before you spend any money on anything, it likely isn't a bad drive.

Generally we don't talk about them being "sound proof", just "closed" or "isolating", and optionally with "active noise cancellation".  I presume that's what you want, but I mention it because even the best will not block all sounds completely.
 
If I recall correctly the WH-1000XM3 from Sony is considered quite good in this regard, though I have not tried them myself to confirm.  A commonly recommended pair for a long time was the QC25 and later QC35 from Bose.  Those I have tried, and I find the noise cancelling quite good and the sound being quite poor with noise cancelling turned on, and so poor you won't want to bother using them with it turned off.

Yea I think i'm gonna stick to the TUF monitor. Thanks.

If it turns out the fans are bad, see if your GPU is still covered under warranty. If so, you may want to RMA it. A fan shouldn't fail within 11 months in most use case scenarios unless you've got the computer outside or in a garage or poorly ventilated area. If it's not under warranty, many Visa and Mastercards offer warranty extensions on purchases made using them. Might be worth it to look into that.

The weird thing is that S/PDIF isn't a proper standard. It's like audio over DVI, it usually works, but not always because there's no defined standard. Probably explains why it sometimes doesn't work even tho everything seems fine.
 
And as long as you can get the audio signal from the PS4 to the line-in port of your pc, you can use whatever you want.
Mixamps, headsets, doesn't matter. As long as whatever you want to use to is listed as a playback device, this will work.

I don't know if it speaks to the longevity of these components, or the fact that my use didn't tax them too much, or the fact I was broke!  Let's call it a combination!
 
I almost went with the 3600 on this build instead of the 3700x, but I'm hoping this build will basically last me another 5-6 yrs (with gpu exception possibly).  So, we will see!

this is a middle ground between the 2 but would strongly recommend it.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/ASUS-Curved-Monitor-FreeSync-AuraSync/dp/B0777X5MDT/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=23FWOJCU67XV6&keywords=1440p+144hz+hdr+gaming+monitor&qid=1572783398&sprefix=1440p+144HZ+HDR+%2Caps%2C155&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFKVUdDSk5DRlMxVzEmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAyNjEyMTZZR0hZUExZSTNOOVMmZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMDI4NTUzMjNFMEJSVVIyNEgwS0Ymd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

Due to the new line of CPU's rumored to hit the shelves next year, if you decide to go intel, I would wait if you can. If you wanna build this soon, or this holiday season, go with AMD to have a better shot at Mobo compatibility for future CPU upgrades. Considering the holiday season is usually the best time to buy components, I would recommend going with Team Red on this one.

As far as the rest of the build. I would recommend ditching the 1TB HDD and go with a 1TB SSD. Have the 240GB for a boot drive and day-to-day applications. The 2TB for mass storage, and 1TB SSD for games. You could even go smaller if you don't mind reinstalling games or moving them back and forth between HDD and SSD as you need them. I suppose your use case may vary from mine, but that's my personal setup. Also, GTA V has some notable stability problems running off an HDD, not to mention some of the longest load times I have ever experienced. But personally I have stuttering problems when running it on an HDD, and so have my friends so I don't think it was an issue of my system.

Also I would recommend going with a 2080 Ti. If it is within your budget, shell out the extra $300 and you'll get your desired FPS WITH high settings on mostly any game. Tallying all your stuff up on Newegg it should still be within your upper budget of $3k. However if you shop around and take advantage of the holiday sales, you could save a buck or two.

You have literally just changed my life lol. I've got friends I regularly hang out with on Discord but whenever I want to play a console game, I can't talk to them via my headset since I am using it for my console. Based on the config you're recommending, I should be able to use my Astro A40 + Mixamp setup as well. I got the mixamp for Xbox/PC and unfortunately doesn't work with PS4 despite using an S/PDIF connector. 

Thank you so much for your kind words! I did graphical design in school so all the color harmony and contrast come natural to me.  Sounds great! You should totally add your build to Build Logs too once you've gotten into it, it's so interesting to see other's PC themes.
 
Yeah absolutely, I thought what's the point of getting a locked processor like the i5-8400 when I can get an i5-8600K and play around with overclocks, all the more fun! I actually one time did underclock my 8600K to 2.8GHz to match the i5-8400, as you could tell, the gaming experience was less than enjoyable when compared to my 4.7GHz overclock.

You've inspired me! Your first build is drop-dead gorgeous! I have built a couple PC's in the past for myself and one for a friend but none of them were this good looking. The color coordination with the fan lights and the whie/black theme is awesome. My past two builds have been rather basic. Black chassis and blue LEDs for my first. My second build was a little more stylish with tempered glass side panels and a tinted acrylic front panel. RGB fans, GPU, RAM, and Mobo. So while I can change the colors around at will for everything but the chassis fans (non-software based proprietary fan controller from thermaltake (Highly don't recommend). it's kind of a mismatch as I can't quite sync up everything to match the chassis. I think on my next build I am definitely going for a White and Black build. The Fractal Design Meshify S2 has caught my eye, but the Corsair Carbide Series Spec-Omega is also real nice. I am leaning more towards the latter because I will be going full water cooling for CPU and GPU and already have Corsair RGB ram that I can carry over into the new system. I suppose having a Corsair ecosystem will help with light coordination.
 
Other than aesthetics, your choice of CPU makes me reminisce about my first build which had an i5-3570k. I too shelled out the extra dough to get the unlocked processor and it is defnitely worth it. Not only are the boost clocks higher, but it offers you the opportunity to manually overclock if you wanna squeeze a little more juice out of your rig. It can be the difference between a minimum of 59 fps and min of 60

Good catch, I thought he was talking about the Razer ones. Shows how much I pay attention when @Slick isn't there. 

I have a 2500K and a 1070, 4.6GHz on the CPU and 2.1GHz on the GPU. I don't game much (Mostly 3D Model / Unity engine work), but the 2500K does keep pace with it for the most part. It really depends on the games though, some are more CPU heavy / badly optimized.

I'd use UserBenchmark instead. They benchmark user systems and then give a report of the GPU based on mean performance with thousands of tests.