sourcreampie

Grimsmo Knives is located in Canada and is who I bought my Saga pen from. I was wondering wondering if you guys knew about him. Originally and still is a knife maker. He sources all of his materials from Canada and manufacturers all of it himself with the clicking mechanism custom made. That kind of fidget spinner, you want to click all day feel and annoying EVERYONE around you. He has a very similar build it right mentality. I would very much hope you will at least check it out as that is the only pen I will carry ever day at work as it reminds me to have attention to detail and evey single detail maters even if you don't think it does. The tape and shipping label are put on perfectly even know you are just going to throw it away. He ships the pen in a custom blow molded tough box of a case that he helped design. The owner John is a manufacturing/CADD nerd, he host a manufacturing podcast, and he has given other YouTubers a tour around his manufacturing facility. I'm sure if you reached out to him he could be a fountain of knowledge to help you fail harder. Looking forward to seeing what you guys make.

Last WAN show talked about how you got it taken off there website might want to ask them to do the same on Amazon.

It was a heat fence we tried at the bottom, and we also tried slowing down the cool down steps. Weirdly the heat fence was perfectly straight but the part were still bent upwards, tech support defined it correctly I forgot though. Surprisingly good tech support for not really their problem things. Now we are trying thin parts hoping honestly I don't know what. Umm this has all been flat and at 15° now that the boss is gone I would like to try at 90° as we are coming at this problem as if heat is the cause. I think 90 should spread it out. I come from cnc and welding, I have a little mars 3 at home. I just don't know enough about powder based printers yet. If I could afford a home setup I would just for the experience but price and mess make that impossible. Idk waiting for the Wan show.

At work we got a new machine I mainly work on HP MJF parts. And we are getting peeling or potato chipping I forget the exact word where the part bends up. I was just wondering if anyone here had any experience with SLS machines before I describe the problem in more detail. Currently trying a heat shield or dampener I forget what the engineer called it.

I dont think that is it utilization mostly under 20% bounces to 70% for as second. The sound come throw just fine 6k out of 14k frames dropped hardly ever hitting my base clock speed. but why would most 4k vids work but not his. is it a bit rate thing with his vids or is there different setting in which they upload at. not even hitting more the 2.5ghz the Buffer Health is fine on the nerd stats ever once and a while in a while i hit 50mbps but mostly 20 to 30. i have a 100mbps internet. ltt vids hits my system harder and they are playing 4k just fine. it just weird, it is only some youtuber i have the problem and it all the 4k vids they have. i had floatplane for a little while and never had any problems and they upload higher quality. a very confusing problem sorry igormp didnt see your i have old school parts i5 2400 and a 760. but as i said why would i have problems with some youtuber and not others. is there different up loads setting they can use for the same resolution??

I was wondering if anyone else has seen this problem. I first noticed it on Gamers Nexus channel, when I turn on 4K all i get is dropped frames about 90% of them but drop it down to 1440 an it perfect. I use firefox, I don't have a shit ton of add on. I was wondering if anyone has seen this problem but more interested in if someone has a solution problem. If its a setting in firefox, just checked chrome and it is a whole bunch lag and some dropped frames. But like i said most other 4K is just fine i would say maybe 85% of 4k is just fine. Even pornhub 4K is just fine lol. Any help would be amazing please and thank you in advance.

I was wondering if in plex, if there is a way on TV shows to enable subtitles or a different audio stream on all episodes or seasons? On a movie I don't have a problem turning one or the other on but when watching a couple of seasons it becomes annoying. Can it be changed in Plex itself or do I have to change it in the original file? Any help would be appreciated.

I've only done run and setup PA systems and some light mixing live while in the Army i never had to record that was above my pay grade. I would think a digital, considering that how most gear is set up to interface with a computer. But that's just a best guess. You would have to wait for one of the LTT Audio Yoda's to chime in for the truly best way.

On your InnoGear you can go from your out to 3.5mm with something like this to a mic in on your computer cheeply https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-XVM-115F-XLR3F-Right-Angle-Microphone/dp/B000068NZF Worth a 10 buck try. You don't have to go with that one that was just the first one that came up with went i googled xlr to 3.5.

https://www.engadget.com/2008/03/03/audiophiles-cant-tell-the-difference-between-monster-cable-and/ Just get what ever length you want, over all doesn't really matter. The mic is the most important part to sound quality. Audio Interfaces for the most just the same thing as DAC but for mics as long as its good they should all be the same, just look for the one with the features and inputs you need. Mostly you don't want to fuck with you sound on input. Do it after words in software. The Focusrite is one of the more popular one but there are other good ones as well. I wouldnt buy it unless you really just want it or you want usb, gain control, and extra input. Or if you just want to step up your audio game for streaming or music recording. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9q6U1ZLnor4 Thats a good brake down of Audio Interfaces worth a watch.

No problem. If you have a rear seat the folds down, mount the amp to there it makes making adjustments soo much easier. If you do that install it when the seat is down so the wires reach. If able run the RCA's and power wire on different sides of the car because when drawing a lot of power it might interfere with the signal, I've read that in a couple of places but idk if true but makes sense. Also remember the biggest wire AWG or gauge the amp recommends is best and should help make head light dimming problem that some people have with smaller cars be less of a problem. That's what i did with my civic and my lights will only dim when i turn it up so loud that my door speaker start to distort but never never when driving. If you have any more questions please ask. I'm no expert but I have done a lot of homework on the subject, more homework then I did in school lols. When installing the ground wire for the sub the "say" you should sand down the paint where you mount the bolt for the ground but i didn't and it is just fine. You should look up what they call "The Big Three Upgrade" that's where you upgrade your ground wires for you engine because you are drawing more power from your car it is recommended you upgrade its grounds. I forget the exact reason for it now but i know with my car it would takes a couple of seconds extra for my car to turn on after installing the amp after the upgrade tho it was a bit quicker to start. Idk if that had something to do with the power my amp was drawing or if it was in my head. But i know there is a reason for it. Worth a google. If you do don't buy the big three kit online go to home depot buy wire and connectors it will be cheaper, only like 15 bucks or about 35ish if you buy a kit online. You want to use 4AWG or 0AWG for the upgrade, 0AWG can be a bit more money and is a bitch to work with. i just used 4AWG. About .85$ a foot and 0awg is more than 2 https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/The_Truth_about_the_Big_3_Upgrade.pdf Don't have to read the whole thing but i found it was a good right up on the topic. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gnmXKjm3tZE And a good vid on a install of the big three kit.

and yes starting with one sub would be your best bet. two subs in a small can is alot of power. plus that isnt a bad price considering that the 2x12 one is more than double the price which is dumb. you can also take the port off the sub and use Acousta-Stuf Polyfill to try and improve bass. Recommended 5lb for subs if not more depending of box size. http://www.parts-express.com/acousta-stuf-polyfill-speaker-cabinet-sound-damping-material-1-lb-bag--260-317 great website for all diy audio mostly in home but still alot of good info

Unless you want to buy a 5way amp now. the problem with the amp for door speakers is if i remember correctly that in order for a 1 db increase in sound you need a doubling of power. so your speakers are already so loud with idk 14 RMS from the head unit. You would need a 28 watt per channel amp for 1 db louder and the average human ear cant hear a 1 db change. So in order to hear it you need about 3db and that means almost 10x the original power so 120ish rms per channel and there already playing at 60-70db already are you really going to hear 3db. so cost to performance is not there. my math might be off but its the idea of it i know im close to. but what it does give you is cleaner sounding sound able to be played at a higher level than before. its very easy in car audio to get thing to play louder. but it takes time to get it to sound right, install takes no time at all it the tuning that will take you hours.

So you want to put to 12s in the back of a cav. I put two 10's in the back of my civic w/ a 900rms amp w/ no amp for the door speakers and to be honest now its stupid loud. You could use any one of those amps there almost the same but with two subs i would say a bit more power might be needed. or you could run the two subs in Parallel. Then you can send the amp a 2 ohms load and get more power out of the amp. You would get 500 RMS@2 omhs instead of 300RMS@4 ohms. I would go with the 1X12 over the other one only because the other one you need to buy a box as will. There a lot more math literally that goes into finding or build the right sub box. Door Speakers You would ether need to buy another amp for them or buy a 5 way amp(4door and 1 sub out). Most of the time you dont need to do wire unless the car is really old or you want to be anal about it. i would just do the sub and see how you like it and go from there. Many people do it this way, Adding an amp to the door speakers adds alot. Set up a 5.1 home theater with the speakers 4 feet from each other then sit in the middle. Its a bit over kill for most people, If you decide not to amp the door speakers run the RCA cables for them any ways only cost a couple of bucks now and will save time down the line. Parallel--http://www.sonicelectronix.com/product/img/subwoofer_wiring/2_subs_SVC_4_ohm_mono.jpg

Over all i would say no to the P300 unless you need a small form factor sub. The P1-1X12 and P1-1X10 would be a good choice unless you listen alot of rock if so a sealed sub is recommended for cleaner bass. If you were to pick the x12 or x10 I would look for and amp thats RMS power rating is around the peek power of those subs (500 watts) the Pioneer GM-D8601 would be a good starting place and if you have the money Pioneer GM-D9601. Always try and have an amp with more power than the sub so you can have more room for adjusting. When you buy the Wiring Kit for your sub what ever the Maximum Input Gauge is of the amp buy that gauge. For example the two Pioneer max gauge is 4 AWG. When it comes to the wiring kit any will do a 25$ one will perform just as good as a 50$ one with in margin of error as long as they are the same AWG. A lot of sites that sell car audio will have a bundled wiring kit you can buy with the amp to save a few bucks. Pioneer GM-D8601 $120 - http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_63976_Pioneer-GM-D8601.html Pioneer GM-D9601 $170 - http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_63975_Pioneer-GM-D9601.html