OlavEmil

The talk about the end of desktop computers because of laptops becoming good enough to take over, has been going on for 20 years already.

So, OP sets a $2500 budget limit, then proceeds to posting an $8300 PC as his choice. Seems legit. My newly built PC is right around the $2500 limit, and, considering I put quite a lot of thought into it, probably is my dream PC at that price. If I had $8300 to spend, however, things would look different :).

That really depends on your needs, and on your PC. A 4k screen will demand a lot of the hardware to be able to run games smoothly. A 144hz screen on the other hand will only be better than a 60hz screen if your hardware is actually able to run the games at higher fps. On the other hand, running slower than 144hz won't really make a game unplayable. Running any significant amount less than 60fps will, even if the image is crystal sharp. I am no experienced gamer, and only recently got a 1440p 144hz screen. I have never seen a 4k screen. I do believe that 4k screens are slightly more expensive, but mainly in the ballpark.

A 60hz screen will never show more than 60 frames per second, even if the game is running at 120 (or 300) fps. That doesn't mean you can't play, of course, but you won't get more than 60fps onto the screen.

If the monitor is 60hz (which most / all? 4k monitors are), you can only play at 60hz / 60fps, no matter which resolution you use.

O yeah! Beats Young Witch any day.

Unless you are planning on serious overclocking for the sake of benchmarking, save your money and buy the $600 one. Any 1080 is a great card :).

This really depends on a couple of factors. First: Are you a "gamer", or a "simmer"? Meaning, do you just want to casually jump into a car, get a track, decide difficulty easy - medium - hard? Or do you want ultra realistic physics, cars, tracks (they come laser scanned these days, accurate to the real track down to the slightest crack in the tarmac), planning your career, setting up your car etc? Do you want good, competitive multiplayer racing, or are you satisfied with racing AI? Of course, the answers to the questions above also matter for what kind of steering wheel you should get, but a basic start for recommending one would be budget. You can get steering wheels from a hundred bucks to literally multiple thousands of dollars.

My father made a habit of dropping his cellphones in the ocean. For some reason, he was always keeping them in his breast pocket, which didn't go well with boating (leaning over the side of the boat to get a fish, leaning out to reach for a rope etc etc.). I think he dropped 4 or 5 before coming to senses and putting his phone in a different pocket . I left mine in my pants that my wife put in the washing machine. It didn't end well, even though it was waterproof...

The communication from NCIX here is extremely unprofessional. I see many of you don't care what the store accuses you of, as long as you get your money, but that does not make it right at all. Sure, there is no law against companies insulting their customers while handling refunds as requested. And from the looks of it in this thread, it may not even be problematic for them when dealing with many people. But many others, normal people, will dislike it, and, rightfully so, spread the bad word.

In that case, it is probably a language barrier. What I am talking about is the FM sound you always get unless you are standing right next to the FM mast (skurring or susing, as we would say in Norwegian). You definitely don't have perfect sound in your FM radio all the way until the channel disappears on long drives. I don't know what sound fidelity is. Perhaps that is what the sound experts are talking about, being better (or at least having potential to be better) in FM. Either way, a normal consumer will find the sound in a DAB radio better than in an FM radio. As for the rest, I guess we mostly agree. Yes, change is inconvenient (and not just because "change is bad"), but it is a necessary change, and it is without doubt a change for the better in the long range. I do however feel that this is a good time to discontinue the FM frequency in Norway. 99.7% of our population has DAB coverage for the public channels (NRK) at their homes today, and 92.8% has the same for commercial channels. Our public roads are also very well covered, and will continue to be improved in the time leading up to the closing of FM in the different regions. Personally I have noticed a great improvement in the last year, from often losing DAB connection when driving, especially in tunnels, to basically never having that happen today.

Okay... Yes, the implementation of DAB+ costs money. It is estimated to ~ $120,000,000, or NOK / SEK ~ 1,000,000,000. However, it is not a question whether we need an alternative to FM or not, we definitely do (our FM frequency is packed). The question is, do we keep the FM running in parallell with a proper working system for the future, investing what it takes to keep it running (which will soon reach the same as the implementation of DAB+)? Or do we focus on the one frequency that will actually work for the future, spending the rest of the money on sensible things? Huh? DAB+ radios works in a much simpler way than FM radios. No need to put time and money into getting it working, apart from the obvious "buying a radio" part, which of course goes for an FM radio as well. Surely I can't be the only one in the world who have been annoyed with radio stations clipping and straight out disappearing when driving from one place to another? This is not an issue with DAB+. This is also what I meant by crystal clear sound, not the sound quality itself. Aparently, the sound quality sent by DAB+ is poorer than what is / can be sent at FM, but that is a purely academical discussion, as you would never get the same sound clarity on FM that you get on DAB+.

Extremely dry (almost hairy feel), and extremely bad taste, as I would assume a dead llama would be . Do you have problems with dry mouth when sleeping? Do you have free passage in both of the nostrils? I believe it can be dealt with surgically if it causes issues. In my case, which nostril is blocked shifts every now and then, probably a couple of times an hour.

Me too. But what you seem to miss, is that there is no difference from the listener's point of view if the sound from the radio is sent by FM or by DAB (apart from DAB being crystal clear, without the frequensy noise). The change is purely technologigal. Yes, that is the main arguement I hear. It is false, though, because the FM net isn't working by itself. It takes a lot of money to keep it running, and it will take conciderable investments in the near future to keep FM running. Changing to DAB+ is the only sensible thing to do from an economical point of view, as well as a user friendliness point of view.

Yes, you will survive, but it will be very uncomfortable. You will wake up during the night with the taste (and feel) of dead llamas in your mouth, and you may, as Urishima writes, have irregular breathing, making you wake up with a short breath (in addition to the earlier mentioned llamas). I am struggling with one or the other of my nostrils being blocked at any time, and have been for years. The last months it has become worse and worse, and now my wife finally kicked me off to see the doctor. If it is just for a day or three because of the cold etc, just bring a big glass of water when going to bed, to wash out the llamas when you wake up. If it doesn't go away, you should probably do something about it before years pass, unlike me.

Thanks. Yea, probably because I am a complete beginner at computer interiors, and don't know the risk. I checked the cable before connecting it, and saw that all connection points had a wire in them. I also see that not all wires on the other cables are used. This was however the only wire that was not connected to a connector point, used or not, which is why I asked here and at the sellers if this is per design to be connected to something I don't use, or if there is something wrong. Do anyone know what this could be, and if it indeed can lead to games crashing without any further problems? I doubt the seller will know, hopefully they'll just send me a spare cable, probably they'll have me return the whole PSU and then send me a replacement.

I got a response from the seller, wanting me to send the PSU serial number. This was to be found underneath the PSU itself. Is there any other way to get this number (on the PC or in the packaging / manuals etc), or do I have to disassemble my PC to find it? Also, Watch Dogs 2 and Just Cause 3 are crashing to desktop after some time of playing. Temperatures all around are fine. Could this loose wire have anything to do with it? Or is there some other problem? How can I tell what does it? Everything is fine before and after the crashing.

Well... I remember we had Paratroopers on a PC at home when I was a kid: My parents (well, father) was very early with technology. He got one of the first mobile phones in the country in 1972, and also got a computer before I was born, in the 80s. I remember playing Paratroopers as one of the most fun things we did as small kids .

In that case you should definitely applaude the decision to close the FM radio. If you dislike radio in general, having the society pay immense amounts of money to withhold two standards sending the same intolerable nonsense to your radio must be unbearable.

Yea, it took me a week to get my few favourite games back on steam on my new build. GTA V alone took two full days and nights... Looking forward to fiber being built to our valley some time this year! Anyways, I built a gtx 1080 PC with a 2560x1440 144/165Hz monitor, also planning for VR in the (hopefully not too distant) future. If your budget can handle it, by all means, go for it. It is great! (btw, slow Internet is a small price to pay for the wonders of living in the countryside :))

Thanks for quick response. Why would you not recommend leaving it as it is once connected? Because of the extra OS? And just to clarify for a PC building newbie: The old hard drive, once formatted, will work just like the 3TB HDD I already have in my new build? Calling it E: or whatever? Or will it work differently as a third hard drive? Since you recommend using it as backup storage only.

Exactly. Or to be more precise, it costs the society (a lot) more money to have both systems running. Money that could and should be put to better use.

So, I just finished my first PC build, and am very happy with how it turned out. Now I am wondering if I should move the hard disk from my old PC to the new one. The main reason to do so would be to get all the files (photos, work and studies documents etc) easily into the new PC. I see many who format the disk and re-use it as a "new" disk, but that is not what I am aiming at. Is it as simple as connecting the disk to the motherboard, and bam, it works with all my files still in it? Or will connecting an unformatted disk to a new PC cause problems? Finally, this old hard drive has windows installed. I have already installed windows on my new ssd, where I want to keep it. Is it possible / easy to uninstall windows from the old hard drive once this is connected to the new PC (given positive answers to the previous questions)? Sorry if this has been asked and answered hundreds of times before, but my searches didn't bring up anything useful on this particular subject.

Focusing on one of the alternatives is the only sensitive thing to do. With DAB+ being obviously superior to FM, it is an easy choice. 59% of the people asked oppose to the idea because they don't know what they are talking about, and the last 1% oppose because they are huge FM fanboys who have some weird obsession over FM radio, despite DAB+ being much better in pretty much every sense.

Thanks :). I chose the Enermax 240 because I wanted simple water cooling, and it got great reviews wherever I looked. It was also very conveniently priced, costing more or less the same as most 120s (Enermax included). Surely overkill, but again, prepared for VR and possible overclocking. It did however come in conflict with the ram bricks when top mounted, so I had to mount it in the front, where most of the lower fan is obstructed by the psu casing. I also chose to reverse mount the fans, pulling air from outside the case, in stead of pushing air out over the radiator. Not sure how clever that is, but I felt it needed to be done to prevent low air pressure sucking dust and dog hair into the case. I am very pleased with how it works and looks in the end, but in hindsight I might have gone for a 120. Please note that I am very much a noob at computers, so please don't take my experiences as anything but that, a noob's experiences. This is my first build, and really the first time I've ever looked inside a PC case.