Heywhatsup

If you're that particular about its placement, you're going to want some form of shotgun mic which means you are going to need a bigger budget to get something worthwhile. + an audio interface so it can talk to your computer. 
 
Short answer is, an ideal setup is going to cost significantly more than $200 if you really want it truly hidden behind your displays. 
 
Once you compromise a bit (like most people have) you can begin to work closer to that budget. 
 
As far as I know there are no $200 USB mic's (since i'm assuming your budget is for everything so if you went with a professional XLR mic, you'd need an audio interface) that are setup to work over such a long distance and sound good doing it. 

Also I don't think reapply thermal compound will do much good as your load temps are already super low so you likely have a good thermal paste application otherwise your temps under load would be higher. Also changing to different thermal paste doesn't make a significant difference so its not like you will see any more than a couple of degrees difference. 

Honestly your load temps are really good so I wouldn't worry too much about the idle temps. 

The lack of USB ports may be an issue but I could probably just get a USB hub. I'll take a look between them and choose something. Thanks Grabhanem and Freeagent 🙂 

The lack of USB ports may be an issue but I could probably just get a USB hub. I'll take a look between them and choose something. Thanks Grabhanem and Freeagent 🙂 

Good VRM, probably OCs memory pretty well.
Excellent VRM, probably the best all around overclocker, but the USB port situation is not great if that's a concern.
Not quite as good as the Tomahawk VRM wise, but more USB ports and no wifi. The worst overclocker of the first 3, but most likely by a small margin.
Avoid this board, terrible VRM for the price and an older memory topology that will likely hurt your memory overclockability. There are literally B350 boards that have as good power delivery as this does.

Thanks I will look into it on payday!
 
Outside of the lan thing, this system is as smooth or smoother than any older Intel I've run. That's a good thing.. it has not been a frustration box or anything like that. Butter.

I haven't used an MSI board recently, but I didn't have a good experience.. Asus has always been good to me for the most part. Usually my fault if it doesn't. 
I like my B550-F. I would buy it again. But it went up 60 bucks since I bought it @ newegg.ca  Lots of guys like their MSI boards though, so who knows.
 
I don't like the Intel Lan though. For some reason it takes 38s to initialize after a boot or wake from sleep. Other then that she's been good to me.
 
Been solid for memory clocking, it handles my CPU with no troubles. I did want a 5600 of course, but couldn't and still cant get one.

I've only had MSI boards in the past and they've been completely fine for me but I've also heard good things about the B550-F which is why I was leaning towards that...I guess I'll just have to decide between those two.
 
As for the CPU, I managed to get the 5900x after just waiting 1 week on a backorder from ShopRBC. Give them a try if you're wanting a 5600x, I see people saying they're getting the 5600x/5800x shipped 1-3 days after ordering. 

I honestly wonder who woke up at MSI and decided it'd be a great idea to automatically lock your CPU Clock without saying anything. Even if I wanted dragon to control my clock speed, why on earth would lock my clock at 4.4ghz with no possibility of bringing it back up until reboot...I even opened the app and set everything to the highest settings...Clock is no longer dropping and being locked, running Warzone at 4.7GHZ without issue. Now I can actually work on bringing the clock up and finding a stable voltage...
 
Thank you Shrimp, Dark and Chris. 
 
So for anyone who has a similar issue, uninstall/delete everything related to MSI Dragon Center AND MSI SDK. 

That certainly looks like its a culprit contender.
 

Surprised I didn't see anyone touch on this.
 
The most common cause of this happening is a warped bracket, or even a not tooled correctly back panel.  I had absolutely no problems (besides the weight of the card) screwing a RTX 3090 into my Fractal Design 7 XL case.  Just needed a normal amount of nudging to get the thumbscrew screw holes lined up (It was no different than my r9 290X and my now dead Vega 64).  This was on a Maximus 12 extreme motherboard.
 
I remember I had some serious difficulties with one of the screwholes on an AMD HD 7970 card with a Lian-Li PC-777B case however.  Don't even remember if it was the card panel, case or motherboard position that caused it.
 
 

most mid towers will accomodate 3080s, most boards seem to be 320mm long. so you just need quiet, which comes down to fans mostly. LLs arent super quiet, arctic p12s and noctuas are the best choices here but they dont have rgb. as for a case, theres two factions for those who care about noise. option a: you can dampen all noise coming out of the case, like many bequiet and fractal design cases, at the expense of airflow so you have to run the fans higher and louder to get appreciable airflow. option b: you get maximum airflow through the case such that you can run the fans really slowly and they dont make a lot of noise. either option works, i think benchmarks-wise the high airflow option is objectively better which is why airflow cases are becoming popular.
 
gamers nexus did a round up of cases in 2020 recently and i think the phanteks p500a did spectacularly in noise to cooling performance. its a large, capable case with a lot of nice features and is what i plan on getting for my build-in-progress. theres a normal flavor for 100 bucks and a 130 dollar version that has a bunch of rgb built in, both are good.

Phanteks P500A, or the Lian Li Lancool II Mesh are great choices.
Lian Li actually TOOK Gamers' Nexus 'Tech Gezus' feedback to improve on the original Lancool II.
Like they freakin' invited him to HQ to see if he's got more feedback.
 
The Lian Li O11 Dynamic is not very good for air cooling.
It is not compatible with tall air coolers -- limited to 155mm coolers... even the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Black Edition is too big to fit!! Like WTF...
It is more designed to be a water cooling case.
The Lian Li O11 Air isn't much better...because the chassis / frame is IDENTICAL to the O11 Dynamic.
 
 

WD SN500, Samsung 860 Evo, Crucial MX500 and Adata SU800 are the best SATA drives for performance atm, WD Blue actually compares to the older products like the 850 Evo and MX300, though performance isnt all that different.

The WD Blue 3D is the obvious choice here, both SSD are comparable to begin with... Samsung has a tendency to overprice their units "because we're the best" much like Intel does with their CPU even when not applicable.
 
You won't be losing anything going with the significantly cheaper model.

Just double check with CPU-Z that its reporting the RAM as dual-channel as if its reverted to single-channel that's likely to be a real drag.

it's fine. Probably not the best for pedal to the metal overclocking, but for just factory XMP it's no problem.

No it's fine.

The FTW3 Is a MUCH larger cooler in terms of thickness, and has better fans overall. If you honestly want quiet you can get a NZXT g12 Bracket, and a NZXT AIO and get even better performance then your friend while being quieter. It requires full dissassembly of your card however. 
 
Honestly 70-80 is barely different then 55-65 in terms of performance, Just a few power steps.

I suppose it just depends on what you want out of the system. I'm running a 980ti at 1440p144 and I'm very happy with the performance. It certainly won't max out my refresh rate but imo there's very strong diminishing returns above 90 fps. If you don't want under 144fps then the 2080ti is your best bet but that's not really necessary imo.
 
If you're upgrading to a higher resolution/refresh monitor within a year or something then I'd say keep the card. It's definitely more powerful and if you get a good deal today then you have it secured for when you get your monitor. Just remember that you're buying this PC for your own enjoyment, there's no point in upgrading for higher numbers when it doesn't have that much realistic impact on game performance
 

Let me put a few things straight since I'm In your shoes.. I had a 1070 g1
I recently upgraded my monitor to 1440p 144hz and let me tell u I'd be lucky to be around 80fps at 1440p. 
 
So I like you got a 2080
 
Fortnite for example at max settings at 1440p I get average arou d 140fps 
It goes up into the 200's but also drives below 120fps when massive fights are going on.
 
At 1080p on on my 2080 I get a steady 200ish fps
 
So I'd say if you want to actually utilize a 144hz monitor to its fullest withought lowering settings. KEEP IT! I love mine and with a 144hz monitor u need it.. 
 
Linus did a video recently about 4k gaming where u would actually need two 2080tis to run over 144hz at 4k. And for now I believe my system is pretty much future proof until 4k at 144+fps becomes mainstream 
 
Btw I'm running a 
8700k @5ghz 
32gb ddr4 3200mhz 
M.2 Nvme drive
Water cooled rtx2080
 
Just for anyone thinking I'm getting low framerates due to a old computer lol
 

Peeps overestimate the performance of a GTX1070, yes, it's powerful but for 1440P at 144Hz, it WILL struggle. Now, IF OP had a GTX1070 Ti or GTX 1080  to begin with, then yes, stick with it. A move from GTX 1070 is like a two notch move upward, from GTX 1070 pass GTX1070 Ti/GTX1080 to RTX2080/GTX 1080 Ti performance level, so yeah, 1440P @144Hz is certainly doable easily. So, in my opinion, if you wanna get a 1440P 144Hz monitor (prolly a more expensive Gsync monitor, that's why I'm on AMD cards for Freesync) then the RTX 2080 would tide you over for quite a while.

I'm probably quite the opposite. I multi task far too much  Kills my 3570k right now. And yeah for gaming I figured it wouldn't help too much. I'll try to make up my mind to see whether I should get the 8700k or 8600k. Thanks a lot.

He said money wasn't a huge issue and mentioned performance issues in gaming, and when it comes to gaming ryzen isn't great the intel cpu also performs similarly to the 1800x in multi-thread tasks a little less in some cases on par in some and better in a couple. 
Given his use case ryzen isn't great it is cheaper but really not much better for gaming especially at high refresh rates so why bother