princemc

On 2/23/2019 at 12:20 PM, mariushm said:

The only other thing I can think of would be changing Transfer mode from Passive to Active, or the other way around.

 

In Filezilla FTP Client, options, Connection > FTP > Transfer mode. 

By default, it's set to Passive mode and should work fine.  Change it to Active and restart the client and try again. If it's already set to active, try with Passive mode.

 

It's just two different modes of creating the data connection between the computers which is used to transfer file listings, actual files and so on.

 

As an older design, FTP was designed from the start to have a command connection (the one through which client says "show me files in folder xyz, go inside folder xyz, resume download") and separate data connections which are created as needed.

 

Okay, I finally got it to work. I had to setup the server on my Desktop and run the client on my laptop. I also had to disable IP checks because it was preventing me from getting the proper connection. I know that isn't the safest option but I'll figure it out if I plan on running it in a more permanent fashion later on. Thank you for all the help!

44 minutes ago, mariushm said:

The only other thing I can think of would be changing Transfer mode from Passive to Active, or the other way around.

 

In Filezilla FTP Client, options, Connection > FTP > Transfer mode. 

By default, it's set to Passive mode and should work fine.  Change it to Active and restart the client and try again. If it's already set to active, try with Passive mode.

 

It's just two different modes of creating the data connection between the computers which is used to transfer file listings, actual files and so on.

 

As an older design, FTP was designed from the start to have a command connection (the one through which client says "show me files in folder xyz, go inside folder xyz, resume download") and separate data connections which are created as needed.

 

I'll try a couple different things when I get home tonight. I'll try the things you suggested and I will also try making my desktop the server instead of the laptop being the server

11 minutes ago, mariushm said:

If the two computers are within your home network, then there's no reason to deal with port forwarding - you only need to do that if you want the ftp server to be accessible from outside your home.

 

Inside your apartment, you can simply connect to the server using the local IP address, not the external one (which you can determine using a site like ping.eu or by googling "my ip address" )

 

Whatever you do, you must allow the ftp server executable to listen for connections and accept connections, by adding the executable "FileZilla Server.exe"  in the firewall rules.

Maybe check your antivirus as well, it could have a built in firewall or something.

I've added both the server, and the client through the firewall on each respective PC. The connection completes now, but I keep getting the "425: Can't open data connection for transfer of /" error. I have been using local IP to attempt the connection and that's where I get stuck at is the 425, and subsequent 421 disconnect error.

22 hours ago, mariushm said:

In Filezilla FTP Server after you create the account and add the folder you want for that user,  click on the folder and then check the List and +Subdirs, so that users can browse the contents of folders:

 

And as a tip, if you have multiple drives or folders in different locations you can use this trick:

 

Create a folder somewhere, and leave it empty ... for example C:\Temp\FTP  ... add that folder in the window from the picture.

Right click on folder and select  "Set as home dir"  if that H icon isn't already set to the left of the folder name.  In the picture above, my folder is "C:\Programs\FTP"

Now, add your hard drives or various folders. Make sure you check List and +Subdirs for each one you add.

By default, they won't be visible but you can make them show up by telling Filezilla to create fake folders in your home folder (the first folder you added)

Right click on each drive or folder that you added and select Edit aliases option and type a name for your fake folder name, with a / character in front.

For example you could add D:\ and set alias to /music , E:\ can be /movies  , your optical drive if you have any let's say F:\ can get the alias /dvd-drive   

Once you hit OK and refresh the folder view in your FTP client, you'll see those show up as regular folders in your FTP client.

 

In the picture above, you can see I added all my hard drive letters as folders my simply giving each a letter after the / character.

I'll give that a try later tonight once I get out of work. I really appreciate all your help so far. I've kinda been wanting to set up and FTP server for a while now but I never thought I would have to do it just to transfer some files to another pc on my network. 

So far, I've tried to set up the server on my laptop, because that's where the files are, and running the client on my desktop. I think tonight I'm going to do the reverse and set up the server on my desktop instead and use my laptop as a client and see if I can get it to work that way. Although I'll have to go change my port forwarding options, I think it might work out a little better. I've had network issues with that laptop since I got it so there could be something on it that's preventing inbound connections but outbound connections might work a little better for me.

15 hours ago, Saksham said:

uninstall usb drivers, restart computer, (windows automatically installs usb driver), update drivers manually, check windows update for new drivers. 

I'll give that a shot. I also haven't had the time yet to check and see if my flash drive is using a letter assignment that my laptop is currently using so I'll have to try to reassign paths on my desktop and see what happens. It's hard to imagine that's the case, because I have about 6 drives total in my PC and only one on my laptop, but I suppose there could be partitions with other letter assignments that are hidden on my laptop, but are not hidden on my desktop. 

1 hour ago, mariushm said:

On the computer where you install the Filezilla FTP Server, go to WIndows Firewall and add Filezilla FTP Server.exe to the whitelist (allow programs to connect to it).

Look in Network Connections and determine what IP address that computer receives from the modem/router/switch

In Windows 7, it's in Network Connections, click on Local Area Connection or whatever is called and then click on Details. You see there IPv4 IP address.  On Windows 10, it may be slightly different, but should be easy to find the information.

 

 

You can see in the details that my IP address is 192.168.0.10 , so that's what I'd use on another computer in the ftp client, if the server software is installed on this pc.

 

On the other computer, you start Filezilla FTP Client and enter that computer's IP address.

 

In the video, i used "localhost" because I installed both server and client on same computer, and "localhost" is a "nickname"/shortcut for "this pc's ip address" - if you enter that in your ftp client, the ftp client will try to connect to a ftp server on same computer, and you probably don't have one.

 

I finally got the connection up, but now I'm left with the 425 error saying it can't connect to the directory

11 hours ago, mariushm said:

Set up a FTP server on one computer, doesn't matter which one. Filezilla FTP server is free and super easy to set up.

Set up an account. If ftp server on pc with data, set the drive as user's folder. If ftp server on destination pc,set user's folder the folder where you want to transfer data to (and check all boxes to allow creation of files and folders)

 

Use ftp client on other pc and connect to ftp server using the other pc's ip address.

 

if you want follow this video: http://savedonthe.net/a/tutorial.mkv

Has no sound because i originally made it for a friend and i spoke in my native language, so it would be useless to you (most likely)

So I've tried to use Filezilla and after watching your tutorial and about 6 others, I can't seem to get it to connect. Originally I was getting "Connection Refused" errors, but now it just times out when I try to connect and I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong here.

On 2/21/2019 at 9:27 PM, Lord Mirdalan said:

How about a flash drive? If you have USB-C, it shouldn't take long. They happen to come in a convenient 64GB size!

 

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1303886-REG/sandisk_sdddc2_064g_a46_dual_drive_usb_c_64gb.html

I'm looking to do this without spending money since I should have a wide variety of tools at my disposal, I just can't seem to get any of them to work correctly. 

On 2/21/2019 at 9:26 PM, ChewToy! said:

Take your hard drive or SSD out of laptop, hook it up to desktop and copy the files over?

On 2/21/2019 at 9:27 PM, dgsddfgdfhgs said:

do it the old way.

pull out hard disc from laptop and plug it in.

 

to be more lazy, use phone sd card storage to transfer 

Laptop is a Dell XPS 13, I don't know if the storage is even removable in it, and if it is it's probably an M.2 Drive, so I would have to take my boot drive out of my PC to plug it in for file transfer.

On 2/21/2019 at 9:27 PM, Saksham said:

do you get an error when trying to use usb or what? more details, please. also, take a screenshot of the disk management settings thing after you plug in usb. 

I don't get any errors when I plug in the USB drive. Windows plays the notification sound that I plugged in a new device, but the drive doesn't show up on "This PC" nor does it show up in Disk Management. It shows up in Device Manager with a yellow triangle error sign and I believe it says drivers are outdated but I can't get it to install new ones either. My USB dongle for a wireless mouse still works fine but 2 separate flash drives do not.

On 2/21/2019 at 9:29 PM, ThatFlashCat said:

What error are you getting on the network share? That's probably the best way of doing it.

After turning on Network Discovery and removing password authentication for file sharing, I try to browse the files on each PC from the other, an error like this appears

On 2/21/2019 at 9:43 PM, mariushm said:

Set up a FTP server on one computer, doesn't matter which one. Filezilla FTP server is free and super easy to set up.

Set up an account. If ftp server on pc with data, set the drive as user's folder. If ftp server on destination pc,set user's folder the folder where you want to transfer data to (and check all boxes to allow creation of files and folders)

 

Use ftp client on other pc and connect to ftp server using the other pc's ip address.

 

if you want follow this video: http://savedonthe.net/a/tutorial.mkv

Has no sound because i originally made it for a friend and i spoke in my native language, so it would be useless to you (most likely)

Thanks a lot, I'll give this a go in a little while

So I'm not sure if this will be in the right thread or not. Its kind of a network issue but could be a Windows issue. 

So I have some files on my laptop that I'd like to try to transfer over to my desktop. It's about 60gb worth and I have slow internet at home so I'm trying to avoid using any type of cloud service for this. (10:1 DSL connection)

I read conflicting information about transferring files between PC's using a USB-C to USB-C cable, and couldn't find a definitive guide so I abandoned that idea. For some odd reason my 32gb USB 3.0 flash drive cannot be used by my laptop, but does show up on my desktop when plugged in. So I then started trying to transfer files over LAN.

I made sure to turn Network Discovery on for both devices (Windows 10 on each), enabling every possible sharing option I could find. I mapped one of my Desktop's drives to the Network, and it's not discoverable by my laptop. My laptop cannot be accessed by my desktop due to permissions limitations I have no idea how to disable. Clicking the help link takes me to Microsoft support page but not to any article explaining how to fix it. I tried network sharing the folder I'm trying to transfer, and that doesn't show up on my desktop either.

I'm at a complete loss here. I have no idea how to transfer these files without it taking 4 days due to my horrible upload speeds into a cloud service. I'd like to try to go the LAN route if anyone has any suggestions on what to do. I'd really appreciate it.

10 hours ago, Joonikko said:

My suggestion:

• Keep the DSL modem in bridged mode
• Archer C7 acting as a router, you can keep the WiFi enabled, but make sure it's on a different channel than the Unifi AP.
• Unifi AP (or ZyXEL has some good ones) in the middle of the apartment or at the other end if you decide to keep WiFi enabled on the C7. Just connect an ethernet cable from the router to the PoE injector and then another cable from the injector to the AP.

A network switch is an OSI layer 2 device, so it doesn't do any IP routing so you need the router to do that.

That is a great suggestion, thank you for the help! 

10 hours ago, THraShArD said:

CAT 5 or 6 supports 328 feet before it needs to repeat off a switch. Same with a WiFi signal booster or repeater and could be off a switch hidden in the corner or behind the couch..etc

 

It's not that hard running it through the carpet edge and if needed to run under a doorway, just protect the connection and use a wire hanger to route it under.   If worst case scenario and can poke a hole through the wall, it's like $10-15 to patch it up when you are ready to move out.

So, currently, I have my DSL modem fully bridged, with my Archer C7 handling everything instead. To cut back on interference should I just disable the radios on my Archer and place a UniFi AP in a central location, while still using my Archer as a network switch? I do have a powered 5 port switch, but I don't know how that configuration would work with a switch, then an AP. I don't know if UniFi can setup PPPoE to continue my bridge and just cut out the C7 completely.

9 hours ago, corrado33 said:

First, for long range use the 2.4 GHz band instead of the 5 GHz band. It penetrates walls better. 

 

Wireless repeaters aren't all awful.... it's just that most people put them too far from the router. They are slower, however. You could try a powerline adapter, but in such an old building I doubt it'd work well, and if anybody else in the apartment building was using one it'd interfere. 

 

Me personally? I'd use that Ethernet cable to move the router to a more central location and then you wouldn't have to worry about it. (Buy another ethernet cable to head back to your PC of course.)

Only issue here is, my apartment is kinda like one long hallway with rooms branching off the side, so the most central location would be in the hallway and there are no electrical outlets in the hall. I would have to run Ethernet and power somehow along the ceiling/walls/floors into the hall for my Archer C7, and then double back the Ethernet to my PC. I may try to run my 50ft Cat 6 cable under the carpet with a PoE injector and pick up a UniFi AP AC Lite to mount somewhere in the middle of the unit. 

Wireless repeaters would be an issue because the only choices that would be close enough to repeat a stronger signal would be the outlet in my bathroom, which is not ideal, and the kitchen, next to the sink so that also is not ideal. I was tempted to try powerline because I do have my own breaker panel for my unit so the other units are not on the same circuitry as me, and the interference shouldn't exist. 

10 hours ago, THraShArD said:

Oh, I didnt see the 1800 historic thing is.  If you are in the U.K. it might be different laws, but US laws they don't care and you are in favor - Especially if you want Satellite TV and they have to poke holes, the Apartment will get sued by the Fed if the don't let you have it

Unfortunately there are about 6 cable hookups in the apartment, but I have DSL included in my rent and can't justify paying for cable internet at the moment, so I only have 2 DSL hookups in poor locations. I am in the U.S. I would try to run and outdoor rated Cat6 outside along the runs for the cable hookups but I don't have a way to get up that high without management seeing and wondering why I'm making modifications to the building. I think I might try running cable under the carpet, I didn't even think about that. I just have to see how strongly tacked down they have it, I may not have an opening to get it under and really want to try to avoid fees for "ruining" the carpet when I move out eventually. I'll just try to get a PoE injector near my router, and run cable to another wireless AP in the other end of the building.

Just realized the AP AC Lite comes with an injector
 

1 minute ago, Oshino Shinobu said:

A pair of powerline adapters and a dedicated AP would do it. I'd suggest a UniFi AC AP Lite and a pair of 1Gbps powerline adapters. Make sure to check the ports on the powerline adapters to make sure they're not 100Mbps

I'm not too familiar with powerline adapters, do they need to be on the same breaker for them to work? I'm kinda skeptical because my apartment is actually in a historic building from the 1800's, I'm not sure exactly how old the lines are, but with the age of the building I kind of question the integrity of the wiring in the building as a whole. I suppose running that would end up being better than not having signal at all however.

So I'm looking to extend my Wi-Fi range in my apartment. The fact that I'm in an apartment limits some of my options right from the start. (I.E. running new lines, wall mounting anything) I have a DSL connection and there are only two phone jacks in the unit, one in the living room, which is on one side of the apartment, and one in my bedroom, which is at the opposite end of the unit. So placing my modem/AP in either room kinda limits my range in the opposite side of the building. I currently have my PC wired into my router in the living room, but the range doesn't reliably reach my bedroom.

Last I knew, range extenders are all pretty much garbage. I was wondering if anyone had a relatively inexpensive suggestion for me to extend my range so I can actually use my Wi-Fi in my bedroom. I'd say its probably about 25-30 feet away, but it goes through like 6 walls to reach my bedroom. I have a 25 foot shielded RJ11 cable so I can get my modem as far as possible across the living room to improve the range on my router already but lately I've been having issues with the stability.

32 minutes ago, Doomed83 said:

For VNC if you are on the local LAN then you can connect via the local IP address and the port you selected I believe the default port is "5901". If you want to connect remotely then you will need to configure your firewall/router to forward the traffic per port to the correct PC. So for instance if you setup VNC on local IP 10.10.10.10:5901 and you set your firewall/router to forward traffic directed to you public ip on port 5901 to the PC at 10.10.10.10:5901. This would have to be configured on different ports for each PC on the firewall/router side so that you could connect to different PC's.

I'm struggling to make this work right. I'll look into it more once it slows down here.

1 hour ago, Maximelbray said:

You could use VNC. The server version can run as a service on PCs and is free to use (as far as i know.)

Not sure if it's just my ignorance to the program but I'm having trouble connecting to my device. Would I be using my device's local IP address or public IP?

Hey everyone, 

I work at a small company and we've been using Teamviewer to remote into other company computers for the past several years now. Problem is we've been using a free version of the program, so we've had to stop using Teamviewer after several emails we have recieved. The higher ups are frugal, and don't want to pay for software, or if they do, don't want to pay much. Does anyone have any suggestions on good Remote Desktop software that is free/cheap? We've switched to Chrome Remote Desktop but it has some issues, and as far as I have tested, does not support two users being connected at the same time. Any suggestions would be great. 

25 minutes ago, Donut417 said:

Have you or your ISP checked the actually signal coming in to the modem? Cable Modems have a spec they have to stay within to stay working. If you are on the edge of that spec, you could be going over and disconnecting as a result. You can generally access the modems diagnostic page at 192.168.1.100. Thats if the ISP allows access. 

 

https://www.dslreports.com/faq/5862 this has what the signal should be. Your signal can change up to 3db depending on temp outside. So if you have marginal signal, the weather can simply kill your connect. This might something to look into. At least see if its the WiFi or an actual connection issue. 

For Downstream I'm looking at anywhere from -2.7 to -3.3 with and SNR of ~40dB and Upstream is ~46dBmV. According to that site you linked to, it all seems fine and there are no "Uncorrectables"

On 1/7/2018 at 6:25 PM, Windspeed36 said:

You could get Site24x7 as a free trial, install the internal network probe on a machine that's on 24/7 and then add the gateway as a networking device. You'll also want to then make sure the modem/router is pingable from the outside world (enable ICMPv4 ping) and then add that as a network device to monitor.

Not sure if they changed their plans or not but I tried signing up for the free 30 day trial and I cannot add a Ping monitor, I've looked all around to see if I missed something in the signup process to actually acknowledge I have a free trial and found nothing.

On 1/7/2018 at 6:25 PM, Windspeed36 said:

You could get Site24x7 as a free trial, install the internal network probe on a machine that's on 24/7 and then add the gateway as a networking device. You'll also want to then make sure the modem/router is pingable from the outside world (enable ICMPv4 ping) and then add that as a network device to monitor.

 

To summarise

• Site24x7 installed software locally, runs ping test to internal gateway
• Site24x7 website pings your public IP address to ensure it's availible.
• This can generate a report showing the availibility over say 5-7 days of both the internal and external addresses

 

What this will show is the problem is either

• Not an internal fault: this will be evident if the internal pings (to 192.168.1.1 or whatever) are fine but the external ones fail:
  • This means the issue lies either with a faulty line / carrier fault
• If it's an internal fault, both the internal and external pings will show issues.

 

That's a load of bs to be honest: there's nothing wrong with a business running over WiFi.

Would that be the Infrastructure one or the Website monitoring?

On 1/12/2018 at 5:53 AM, leadeater said:

I would still setup Site24x7, initial diagnosis aren't always correct and to me it sounds like it's not an internet connection issue as you are having problems between devices internally.

 

My guess would be the wireless AP in the provided modem can't handle the number of devices connected or the interference from other APs located near by. 

 

I would also use a wireless survey tool like Netspot, it has a free version, and take multiple sample points around the building to see how strong your AP signal is and how clean (SNR) it is and also what other wireless networks are detected.

Ironically, I tried accessing Site24x7's webpage and google searching Netspot and the network went down

On 1/12/2018 at 5:53 AM, leadeater said:

I would still setup Site24x7, initial diagnosis aren't always correct and to me it sounds like it's not an internet connection issue as you are having problems between devices internally.

 

My guess would be the wireless AP in the provided modem can't handle the number of devices connected or the interference from other APs located near by. 

 

I would also use a wireless survey tool like Netspot, it has a free version, and take multiple sample points around the building to see how strong your AP signal is and how clean (SNR) it is and also what other wireless networks are detected.

True, Spectrum could just be swindling us into getting a more expensive internet package... I will look into that but will also have to justify leaving a machine running 24x7 as someone may mention that I'm racking up the electric leaving a computer running all night... I'll try it out right now. 

I'll give Netspot a go too and see what comes up.

On 1/7/2018 at 12:06 PM, princemc said:

So I guess there's a little update to the situation. I called Spectrum and was on the phone for a good hour explaining the situation. He noticed that we have packet loss so they're sending a tech out to come check our connection and everything. Found out that our cordless phone system runs at 1.9Ghz so it shouldn't be interfering with even the 2.4Ghz WiFi. Our 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz connections were under the same SSID which was causing 5Ghz devices to jump between 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz bands which caused instability. Otherwise everything seems fine. So hopefully they find what was causing packet loss and that will fix all of our issues. I'll definitely look into upgrading hardware in the future nonetheless. Thanks for all the suggestions and we'll see what happens tomorrow when the Technician arrives.

Alright. Kind of a dead thread now but Spectrum sent a tech over to look into our issues and he said that there's too much network usage for the package we have. We're on a 10/1 package and have too many devices running and it's causing some of them to drop out when usage is heaviest. Essentially we are hitting the maximum our connection will allow. All the other advice will be taken into consideration but for now we are deciding if it is viable to upgrade to a higher package first to see if our issues subside. If not, we will try other things but this will be the first step.

So I guess there's a little update to the situation. I called Spectrum and was on the phone for a good hour explaining the situation. He noticed that we have packet loss so they're sending a tech out to come check our connection and everything. Found out that our cordless phone system runs at 1.9Ghz so it shouldn't be interfering with even the 2.4Ghz WiFi. Our 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz connections were under the same SSID which was causing 5Ghz devices to jump between 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz bands which caused instability. Otherwise everything seems fine. So hopefully they find what was causing packet loss and that will fix all of our issues. I'll definitely look into upgrading hardware in the future nonetheless. Thanks for all the suggestions and we'll see what happens tomorrow when the Technician arrives.