DansihBudgetGamer

Yes, the proces that takes place when mounting something in the second PCI-e x16 sized slot happens in the hardware and not the software, so unfortunately yes. It also does not matter if it is an Ethernet card, WLAN or sound card. As soon as something is detected it will limit the PCIe lanes in the top slot. Most graphics cards today does not saturate all 16 lanes anyway. You could try benchmarking your system as is, then benchmark it again with the second graphics card in place and see if performance has changed. If it has not, then you should be fine regardless.

Issue seems to be rooted with iCue. I've now uninstalled it and CPU rolls down to .780 v right away. RAM can be controlled with Gigabyte software but keyboard is now stuck in the awful RGB wave. I want a solid white...

My Ryzen 2nd gen and RX 590 combo runs anything at 60 FPS, though don't expect to go the higher settings. Might want to get something newer than the RX 5xx series though. CPU should do fine for the next while

Could my issue have something to do with HPET being disabled?

Older BIOS usually had that option but I haven’t seen it in ages. You cannot increase your dedicated VRAM and shared memory won’t be suites for any gaming application either. Looks like you’re still on XP. Might consider upgrading?

Yeah. I’m just running Stock at the moment. There’s not really anything that I am currently playing that tends to brother the CPU that much. Only thing I really OC for is BeamNG, which even with an all core of 4 GHz still don’t run properly if you load multiple cars

I doubt it, unfortunately. What is it that you are hoping to change? You can immediately forget about anything referring to overclocking and the likes.

I am indeed. As well as the latest version on Windows. GPU drivers as well. I take high pride in that. Next step will probably be a Windows install. I also lack the "Ryzen Balanced Power Plan" in the Windows options.

I'm merely trying to determine if it's normal for the chip to be so 'busy' when doing nothing. Could you tell me what your chip is doing when not doing anything? Also good to know 1,4 is the max as I might have pushed it a little over that trying to break 4,1. Hehe.

Well it looks like this - some go down to 1,7 while others ramp up a little more, getting a little more green. They never get inactive and they flucturate every second, ramping up to 3,8-4 ish Ghz. Just reverted to default BIOS settings as well for good measure. Nyt bitmapbillede (7).bmp

Same deal in Ryzen Master, did not go below 1,025 after a minute of idling.

You most likely can't. At least not in it's current state. What you're seeing is the BIOS. Most laptops on the cheap end will have something like that. It's the same on my Lenovo V130 laptop. There's literally nothing besides boot priority and bios password to be changed. You'd need to flash a BIOS with more functionality is my guess, if that even exists.

Hi. Have a Ryzen 7 2700 (non-x) on a Gigabyte B450 Elite motherboard. Not presently overclocked, running on a balanced powerplan in Windows. I'm just wondering about the core voltage which doesn't seem to drop the much when it is sitting in idle. It goes as low as 0,780 but only shortly and mostly stays in the 1,2-1,3ish range and I think that's a lot. To be honest, I'm mostly concerned about the powerbill. Could we not agree that it should stay below 1v when idle? There are no background processes runnning or anything else that could warrant the, in my opinion, high voltage. The way to describe it is, very nervous in fact. Core clock flucturates wildly between 1,5-4 GHz literally every second. It's like it doesn't want to slow down to catch a breath. I know it is supposed to move up and down quickly, but i would not expect it to do so violently. Setting the power plan to save power will get the results i'd expect, but then it clocks itself solidly at 1,5 GHz and won't really boost when loaded, so it's not really a solution for me either. Should probably attempt to reset BIOS in the near future. Oh, and I'm measuring vCore in CPU-z. I've heard monitoring software artificially probes the cores, making them think there's an actual load on the chip. If you guys have a similar setup could you give me your readings?

I have the same issue with iCue, only with Gigabyte software. Only solution that I have found is to uninstall the Gigabyte software and control lighting through BIOS, or not use iCue and then have no control over keyboard.

It's probably something one needs to consider before buying parts. I have the issue of having Corsair ram and keyboard, and gigabyte motherboard. iCue overlaps with RGB fusion, causing the RAM to not work on the RGB side. Remove iCue and ram can be controlled, but then no control of keyboard. Absolute nightmare. There really should be a common standard for this.

Very well. My laptop does the same thing, so must be normal. Makes you wonder when something is actually designated as encoding.

Hi When saying, playing back a video on YouTube, is it normal for that video encoding to be treated as '3D' and not 'video encoding' in the Windows task manager? Thing is, that's what my PC is doing. The graph for 'video encode' (green) sits at a solid 0% while '3D' (outlined in red) gets plenty of usage. I am trying to figure out whether something is up that needs adressing or if it is perfectly normal. It happens with both Chrome and Firefox. I would include a screenshot for a better perspective. As can be seen, the GPU in question is an RX 590 with the latest drivers.

The 3 pin connectors on my motherboard can either be 5 or 12 v, controlled by a jumper. Anyways, I just took a chance and plugged it in and it is working, so all is good.

I have a Gigabyte Aorus Elite B450 motherboard and I have a kit of three Cooler Master Masterfans MF 120R (in a kit) with a controller, and a fourth loose one.My end goal is to get these connected and synced with the lighting on the motherboard, and so my questions are:The fan controller supports pass through with Gigabyte’s RGB fusion. It comes with the a three pin connector (as wide as Four pins but one with one of them blanked out)There are two matching headers named V DG on the motherboard with jumpers enabling you to chose between 5 and 12 volts.Question one- can I connect the controller to the V DG header directly and expect it to sync up - and do I set it to 5V or 12 V?Question two- Can I connect the fourth fan directly to the second V DG header and do I set it to 5 or 12 V?I should mention, that my wife three away the documentation by mistake, which would probably have made my life a fair bit easier.

Hi Quick question. I have a Corsair CX550M PSU. I have a Palit Geforce 1060 3GB GPU. Rest of the system in the description. Anyway. I want to know if it is okay to power my GPU with the following old molex-6 pin pci-e adapter that I am attaching a photo of. The PSU does come with a dual 6+2 pci e power connectors, but for visual reasons = as little cables in a small case as possible, I have used the above. Everything is running fine like this, but: Can it damage the GPU in the long run? I read something about rails having to be utilized properly. It is also for obvious reasons, connected through the SATA/Periphial port on the PSU, not the PCI-e one. The adapter came from an old PC from 2008. (This used to power a GTX 260!!) Does this matter? Do cables get "too old" ? I also noticed that there are only five wires on this adapter, as opposed to six on the one that came with the PSU. Does it affect the lifetime of the GPU? Like I said, everything is working fine with this setup, and I intend to keep it this way if it is good to go.

Just picked up a new SSD for my laptop, old one did simply not have enough space (great deal at local warehouse). WIth the old drive everything was fine from first boot. On this new one I'm having an issue with TRIM apparently not working according to the trimcheck tool. I have veryfied that I'm using the correct driver, and have re-installed WIndows three times and tried with different driver versions. Nothing seems to be helping. This is a fresh Windows install, not a clone from the old drive. I'm not reinstalling Windows again, new drive should last a while now, won't abuse it with unnessescary writes. fsutil behavior query DisableDeleteNotify gives a result of 0. Drive in question is a Toshiba A100 120GB. If anybody has a clue what might be wrong, I'd be happy to hear. Thanks. Nyt bitmapbillede (2).bmp Nyt bitmapbillede.bmp

I have the i3 6320 which is pretty much the same, just with more cache and clockspeed. Honestly very satisfied. However not very futureproof as more and more games will utilize quadcore or more.

Unfortunately not, I do not have any new cooling paste at hand, but I have simply decided to go ahead and use it as is. No problems so far.

Hey guys, in need of a little advice here. I recently changed out the motherboard in my main PC as I had the need for a full sized ATX board (more pci slots), which again left me with a spare H110 micro-atx board. The thing is, I had some problems trying to re-seat the CPU socket cover on the board, well in fact, I didn't succeed at all, and I had some horrible "plastic on metal"-ish sounds. Now I am worried that I might have bent some of the pins in the CPU socket. Now, this is a very cheap board, so if it's broken it's broken, but I was planning to use it for a small home server, so I would be pleased to have it in working order. So, does everything here look right to you? I simply cannot decide, especially down in the lower right corner. And another question. The motherboard is currently mounted inside a case, but without the protective cover that I dare not try to put in place anymore. Am I fine leaving it exposed, provided that I dust it off thoroughly before mounting a processor in there? Thanks so much, in advance.

Well I simply installed the cooler with push-pins following the instructions from the vendor. You just click it into place