Macimoar

The RAM sticks are 2 8GB sticks PNY Anarchy (feels weird to see PNY in a build with literally everything else Corsair. DDR4-3200 CL 16-18-18-36 Sells for around $30 at Best Buy when they’re on sale

Yeah, I’m thinking the AIO is probably dead, but the fan probably still works. The motherboard has both bent and missing pins, though. I can bend pins back in place, but I can’t really fix missing ones.

Found this at the thrift store today. I almost didn’t check out the tech section because they rarely have anything. But I lucked out today and found some spare parts in a handy PC case for 10 bucks. Possibly useable parts include: 2x8GB DDR4 RAM Corsair 80mm AIO 3 Corsair case fans Corsair CX750M PSU Motherboard has some bent and missing pins, so I probably won’t be able to get any use out of that; but if the RAM and AIO are working, I’ll be well on my way to upgrade my rig (still need CPU/Motherboard). I don’t currently have a DDR4 compatible motherboard, so I can’t test the RAM sticks yet, but I should be able to test the cooler. Honestly, if even one of these parts works it’s a good deal Best case scenario, I’ve cut my upgrade cost in half. At worst, I have half a PC case

Ok, so I guess I can go ahead and answer my own question. I took the keyboard home and installed the program. This allowed me to set up the profile how I liked, then write it to the keyboard memory. In case anybody else has this problem (though I suspect it’s not a very common one)

I recently purchased an Alienware keyboard for work. I wasn’t thrilled about buying Alienware, but it was the cheapest keyboard available with brown keys and a number pad. But it also has 5 macro buttons on the side of the keyboard which I could put to good use. There’s only one problem: To program them, you need Alienware Control Center. AWCC requires Windows 10. Guess who’s work computer is Windows 7 without the option of upgrading? I do have a Windows 10 computer at my house, so my question is: are the macros programmed into the software and you have to keep the program running in the background or can I download the program on my home computer, get everything set up the way I want it, write it to the keyboard memory and use it with the key bindings at work?

The model number is UH12NS40. We've tried Windows Media Player and Ashampoo with the same results. I'm not entirely sure about the Single or Multi session question, I think they're single session, they're cdr's.

I helped my friend put together a custom PC which so far has worked great. He mentioned that he wanted a disk drive added for cds and dvds. Since he also had several Blu-ray movies, I recommended an LG Blu-ray disk drive because it was cheap and had decent reviews. The drive had specs for reading and writing all three medium types, so I figured it would be fine. Unfortunately, he’s been having trouble burning the cd, it usually fails before it even begins. I went over to try to help, and there was one cd that burned one or two songs on it. That was as far as it ever went. At first I thought it was the cds themselves. When you held them up to the light you could see right through them. So I suggested to get a different, higher quality brand. Still no luck. So so now we’re thinking it might be the drive itself. I’ve checked all the firmware and drivers, they’re all good. The software has to deal with Blu-ray burning, so it’s probably not that. Has anybody had a similar experience?

I lost my Airpods a while back (I think they were stolen but I'm not sure) and I've been holding out on buying new ones forever because Airpods 2 was always just around the corner. I think a video streaming service could prove successful, but I'm not paying extra $10 for it. Bundle it with Apple music and we'll be fine. Even its a few dollars extra for the combined bundle, that would be reasonable.

... and I thought Greek mythology was out there.

I was looking to replace the keyboard on a late 2011 model 13” MacBook Pro. I’m fairly confident I can replace it with no problems, but I’m wondering if there are any rgb backlit options. I’ve tried googling but I haven’t found anything, so I thought maybe the forums know.

My job involves fixing laser tag phasers and vests. The phasers are attached with a heavy duty split key rings. The problem I’m having is that the customers keep removing the phaser from the vest, because the split ring is designed to do this. Unfortunately, our insurance company feels this could be a safety hazard; so I need to find a way to keep the customers from removing it. The other problem is this: whatever I do to close them, I need to be able to open them when I need to work on the phaser, so I can’t just permanently weld them shut. What I’ve tried so far: Hot glue- was my first thought. We use hot glue on a lot of the internals due to its ease of application, but haven’t had much luck on the outside. Too easy to break off. Solder- this works much better at keeping the split ring closed, but is also time consuming to apply and get rid of when needed (also I’m not that great at soldering) Any ideas? also, apologies if this isn’t in the right forum, couldn’t find a DIY area

I'm making a project for my C# class. The idea is that the end user will be able to use the program to construct their own text-based adventure game. I'm using a WPF, the bottom half of the form will be for the text command input and log, and the top will have a graphical representation of the map and a simple inventory display. I want the map to do two things: 1. Only show a room when the user enters it and 2. Move the player sprite to the correct room. The latter shouldn't be too hard, but it's the former that I have no idea on. If you've played the adventure game in the Google Chrome Developer Console, then you know the kind of map I want to create. If anyone has first hand experience in this and could give me some tips that would be great, or if someone could point me in the direction of a tutorial I can follow or something, I can't seem to find what I need.

So far, CPUZ refuses to load. I have the portable app version running on a usb. Loads up to 65% and then just stops, task manager says its not responding. I also tried HWiNFO, but that crashes with no error or warning. So I can't really answer it. I think theres a database for my iCloud Drive that's trying to populate itself and that's what's causing such high cpu usage.

I have a Mid 2013 MacBook Air. I got it with stock specs, so the processor was clocked at 1.3GHz. When I loaded Windows onto it with Bootcamp, I noticed that the cpu usage was high for some reason. When I open task manager, I see the name of my cpu at the top, and it says "@1.3GHz", but the info below says "Base speed: 1.90 GHz" and it's turboing even higher than that, staying around 2.3-2.5. Is this normal? I didn't mess with any overclocking on anything I can hear the fan spinning and the exhaust is warm to the touch but not hot.

Yeah, I was worried mainly because I don't really like the idea of water or liquid around chargers. But I checked Casetify.com, and they say it should be fine (it says it in the description of the product, so I guess I should have checked there first lol.)