heedtheninja67

https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-120mm-Blue-Cooling-CL-F012-PL12BU/dp/B00J0NZEOK

Thanks. Guess I was just googling the wrong phrase. I saw another video of actually removing them and he said it's going to be really difficult if I don't have a hole on the other side... which I don't. It's a Thermaltake standard case fan. I'm just trying to use what I have if it's easy... everywhere I looked was selling them in packs of 100. Think I found some in packs of 10 with wires though.

I need some blue LEDs and this case fan that doesn't spin anymore has some. I tried adding some alcohol in case they were glued and pulled on them a few times, but they didn't budge. Is there a secret to this? Trying not to break them...

FIXED! Found from a Youtube video that you just have to hammer on the wheel button really hard and multiple times. Funny how fixing things the old fashioned way works.

I've lost the ability to click on the mouse wheel. How can I tell if it's mechanical? I've used this link and it doesn't pick anything up http://unixpapa.com/js/testmouse.html Mouse is Tt esports Commander. The wheel scrolling is fine.

Thanks Tam3n. The LED's prob won't work... the pump is rated at 2.1W. One of my fan's came with a small 3 inch 3-pin extension. I should be able to solder on a diode or two without ripping into the pump. Power supply is reading 12.19V, so two diodes will keep that at about 90% of the rated 12V. I tried the software then realized all the extra stuff you need. I have a SFF build so that probably won't work well.

May I ask what your connection chain looked like and what kind of electrical work was involved? I have 2 LEDs that are split from a molex connector that aren't being used, but did you mean resistor? I see you can buy 3-pins with a resistor in-line, but the resistance seems as bit high. Thanks.

I have an Asetek 550LC, which is the OEM Corsair H60. There's tons of topics/videos about how these Corsair Hydro pumps buzz and there's no definitive solution. Some have RMA'd multiple times with the same issue. Some were able to undervolt the pump with success. My current setup is: MSI Z170I Mini-iTX motherboard Pump in CPU_FAN header (0.2A) Radiator + Case fans in SYS_FAN header via 3-pin splitter (0.6A) I've tried controlling the CPU_FAN header with the BIOS, but it seems it only controls with 4 pins, because it stays at 100% regardless of what I put the curve at. I've tried switching fan headers, then my fans go full blast in CPU_FAN, so I can't hear the pump to check anyway. One thing to note is that it seems the buzzing loudness comes and goes. There's always a light hum, which is fine. This isn't air bubbles, it's definitely an electrical sound. Any insight is appreciated.

The DPI button on my Tt esports mouse has 4 settings. If the PC is shutdown long enough, these settings revert to the lowest. Unplugging the mouse still keeps the current setting. There is no software associated with the mouse and nothing is done through the control panel properties. I recall on my old PC it would always just save the current setting every time I booted up and I rarely cycled through the stored DPI settings ever. Is it possible to not have this reset, or am I crazy?