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I am trying to repair MotoG5s Plus I have. I am using an SMD rework station (878ad), instead of a heat gun, and a vacuum suction cup for pulling the screen once glue gets loose from the heat. I have tried with 125 Celsius temperature (I know it is higher than recommended), and tried heating for 3 minutes. The glue doesn’t get loose at all. What should I do to open it? Should I try with even higher temperature, or should I try heating for a longer duration? I have tried following the following instructions, but didn't succeed.

I tried this around 2007. At the time intel used to offer their own tool. Found this for NUC - https://www.intel.in/content/www/in/en/support/articles/000023875/mini-pcs.html There should be similar stuff for other motherboards. [Edit] - https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/support/articles/000006606/boards-and-kits/desktop-boards.html This seems relevant

theiet.org/new-form-of-computer-memory-is-1-000-times-faster/ According to this article, this new startup called "blueshift memory" have developed a new kind of memory module which could be upto 1000 times faster than the ones we use today. They give analogy with a city where everything - shops, houses, etc. are constantly changing. This refers to data being moved around in a conventional memory module. There memory module, using the same analogy , in some ways gives each place a sort of permanent address. The thing that is mind boggling is how can fixing placement of data in RAM speed up memory? At best it can improve processor's cache performance due to spatial locality of data. I am not able to think anything beyond. There is nothing given about the internal workings of the memory. I want to know what's happening inside; even a discussion on rough possibilities will do. It feels like showing a bone to a dog, but then never really giving it to him. Their website - https://www.blueshiftmemory.com/

Can anyone please share the EDID of this monitor, or of any other 8K monitor?

Finally upgrading the firmware of the video card worked for me. - http://www.tomshardware.com/faq/id-2288384/upgrade-gpu-bios.html Additionally I would like to add a peculiar thing about the motherboard. The other graphics cards which were working with it were only working when the RAM stick (I had only 1 RAM module) was installed in 7th slot (DDR4_7_1D). The motherboard's manual says that a single ram module should be installed in slot 3 (DDR4_3_1B). This information in the manual is wrong.

Drivers should not matter. Drivers come into picture once OS takes over. I am not even able to see BIOS screen.

There is no video out in the MB. I tried 1080 from another friend, and it works.

I am trying to assemble a new system for a friend. Following is the configuration. MB - Gigabyte X99P-SLI CPU - Intel 6800 k PSU - Cooler master V1000 The graphics card which I am trying to attach is Nvidia 760 Ti. After attaching the card, and booting the machine, I am unable to see anything on monitor. It simply goes to sleep because of no input. The card works absolutely fine on my computer which has ASUS Maximus VII Formula Motherboard, along with Intel 4790K CPU, and Antec 1300W PSU. I also have checked by swapping the PSU from my computer (ASUS 1300W) to his (which had CM V1000 originally). I have also tried different cables. The BIOS on the friends computer is also the latest. What should I do? EDIT - I have tried attaching it to different graphics card, no gain. I borrowed Geforce GTX Titan from another friend, and that graphics card works absolutely fine. How can a graphics card not be compatible for a MB or a CPU? As long as both the card manufacturer, and the MB/CPU manufacturer are following the PCI-e specification, all card-MB-CPU combinations should work fine. The 760 is still not working, for unknown reasons.

Hi, To the people facing similar issue, here is how I fixed it. First let me show you the reply from Gigabyte support. They told me to update the BIOS, which seems the correct thing to do in the given situation, but I discovered when my system finally booted that the BIOS was already latest, i.e. F23 version (as of 20 April 2017). It in fact wasn't a BIOS issue. Instead it was a RAM issue. These "hi-end" motherboards require the RAM to be installed in particular configuration. The board has 4 memory channels, and if you have a single RAM module then you should plug it in the slot1 of any of the channels. If you plug into slot 2, the system won't boot, as explained in the problem. You should have at least 1 RAM module in any of the slot1 of any channel. If you look into the accompanying manual (section 1-4-1 4 Channel Memory Configuration), you will see a table showing which slots you should install the memory in, depending on the number of memory modules you have. The recommended place for installation of a single module is DDR4_3_1B, i.e. 1st slot of channel B. EDIT - The best place to install a single RAM module for this board is 7th slot(DDR4_7_1D), and not the 3rd slot (DDR4_3_1B) mentioned in the manual. I relalised this when later I faced another issue with this motherboard, it can be seen here -

Send it to store. How will getting a 5820K help?

I bough several systems with Gigabyte X99P-SLI motherboards, and core i7 6800k CPUs. The system wouldn't simply boot. I have tried resetting the bios by removing the COMS battery for about 1 minute. The system is showing no POST messages on my PCIE POST card. Few moths back I had faced a similar issue, but the motherboard was Gigabyte's X99-SLI and not Gigabyte X99P-SLI, which came with Q Flash plus, using which I upgraded the bios with a pen drive. A note on Gigabyte QFlash Plus and QFlash - If a motherboard comes with QFlash Plus support, its BIOS can be upgraded without the CPU, by simply plugging in a pen drive containing bios files in a designated USB port. If your system doesn't come with it, its BIOD must be upgraded the conventional way, and will require the presence of the CPU. Since in my case the CPU itself isn't running, and there is no QFlash Plus support, I am unable to update BIOS.

Cloning isn't really a problem, since I have my data backed up, but yes keeping my windows key safe, and using it while reinstalling is something I didn't have in my mind, thanks for the reminder.

My Dell precision 5510 laptop came with a paltry 256 GiB M.2 NVMe, which has filled up to 100% in just a month (no media files, just heavy developmental work). I am looking for a 1 TiB upgrade, but 1 TiB NVMe drives are out of my budget. Can I install a 1TiB M.2 SATA SSD, like this one from samsung - http://www.samsung.com/us/computing/memory-storage/solid-state-drives/ssd-850-evo-m2-1tb-mz-n5e1t0bw/ ? (The SSD installed in my laptop has M.2 port with 1 notch, while the Samsung SSD has two notches - something to do with M.2 B and M.2 M - can't figure out which is which) In general, will it be safe to assume that if a computer has M.2 port (B or M), we can plug in any M.2 (B or M respectively) hard drive to it? Also, when it comes to M.2 can an M.2 M port work with an M.2 B port? PS: Dell precision 5510 comes in two battery variants - a 84KWh, and an 56KWh variant. The 56KWh has a provision of installing any 2.5" SATA hard drive, as it has space for a HD caddy next to the battery, and a HDD connector as well (labelled JHDD on motherboard). [Un]fortunately I have 84KWh battery, so placing a 2.5" hard drive is out of question. Here is the drive that came with my laptop (256 GiB version of it). Edit- This link electronicdesign.com says that M.2 M and B module (which has notches for both M and B - the 850 EVO in above image) can plug into both M.2 B, and M.2 M sockets. So, the compatibility of different M.2 port types is clear. However it still does not mean that the controller sitting behind the M.2 port will support both SATA, and NVMe. It could still be possible that the controller handles only 1 protocol. The question which then arises is that does the M.2 port controller on 5510 support SATA?