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NPSTR107

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Everything posted by NPSTR107

  1. Agreed. Yes. I see! Alrighty then. Thank you all for explaining your disbelief in the fact that I am not familiar with a slang term of old televisions that I was not familiar with nor heard anyone refer to them as a 'tube', so I have since altered my original comment. YouTube was a poor choice on my part, maybe I should have chosen 'X' instead. Although Elon does fancy his letters S, X, Y and the number 3 so I suppose it's not that surprising either.
  2. Yes, thank you for pointing that out that someone had already explained. I had not heard of the slang term, I've never called a TV a tube, probably as I only ever used more modern TV's.
  3. NPSTR107

    Burn in risk

    I have both an older LG C7 OLED and two relatively new LG C1 OLED's. The older ones were much more susceptible to burn in, and as such my older one does have visible burn in from watching TV. However, the newer ones are much smarter in a couple of ways. They will dim if you leave static objects on the screen for too long, and, they are also better at disbursing heat, which will also reduce burn in. It really depends on your use case, for me, I think it's fantastic as a PC monitor, but I have taken pretty much every precaution to prevent burn-in, including rotating wallpapers, hidden taskbar, keeping the screen brightness lower, and also not snapping windows too often and using them in different positions. I would definitely avoid leaving static objects on the screen for more than an hour, but it depends on how bright you set the screen to be, and maybe consider how bright you have your TV currently - is it set to the maximum? In a nutshell, burn in is a factor that can be avoided but it isn't ever gone. If you're using a OLED TV for normal TV things, burn in likely isn't an issue anymore. But for gaming and using it as a monitor, there are still risks.
  4. Yeah, as long as your sister knows how to switch the boot order then I don't think there's anything stopping you from doing it that way
  5. It's probably still easiest to just keep a backup of the Users folder so whenever you reset Windows you can just copy back the Users files. As you can't really do two boot drives in the same computer without hassle, as far as I know.
  6. From all I know it's supposed to be an open streaming service, it's not supposed to be specific to LTT which is why it is it's own separate company/entity. LTT simply posts on Floatplane like any other social media service. It's not like other social media companies have better names that make sense either. What does the words tube, and you, have to do with videos? Didn't know the 'tube' referred to television as I haven't heard of that, but thank you for all your kind replies.
  7. You can set their user folders to save their documents, media etc on to the secondary drive but their profile information would still be on the main "C" drive and installed applications are shared. For example, an application like Steam would still show up for the other user, but it would be signed out and in it's own environment. Depends on how private and separate you want it to be. I don't think you can have a PC with two separate installations of Windows easily switchable without changing the boot order in the BIOS each time.
  8. Setting up another user on the same computer would be by far the quickest option, and you could achieve something pretty similar without it being too complicated. Each user will have their own environment, desktop, documents, and other folders which won't overlap if you don't want them too.
  9. I really need help with this one as I've run out of ideas to try! All of the troubleshooting that I've tried has just led me down dead ends with various errors along the way. I have an HTPC / media server running a regular installation of Windows 10 on a Samsung 4TB 870 EVO SATA SSD (2 years old) and the PC froze on the lock screen to which I rebooted it, and haven't been able to get into Windows since. The SSD shows in the BIOS storage configuration, and also shows partitions and volumes when I boot the PC from a Windows PE USB stick, but does not show in the boot order. I've tried various troubleshooting methods including bootrec.exe, bcdboot, bcdedit, to no avail. Following one of the troubleshooting steps, I opened a file explorer window from Windows PE and the drive shows up, however, it does not show the storage bar, and does not allow me to access it at all, so it looks like I don't have read permission? 2 years ago I had a similar experience with the same computer with Windows on a ADATA M.2 SSD, but I could access it, but it was locked into read-only mode as it seemed to have died - don't know if this fate has occurred to me again or if it's something different. I would like to hook up the SSD to another system to see if I can diagnose it but I don't have the appropriate connections / alt. desktop with me. Any / all help is greatly appreciated!
  10. Screenshot below, seems to be at 1796.4 MHz. Hmm, ok. Probably should have researched more before buying them, I didn't know that. What do you think of the screenshot below? And are there any BIOS settings that may improve my situation?
  11. I rebuilt my current PC about two years ago with 2x16GB DDR4-3600, G.Skill Trident Z Neo, Model F4-3600C16-16GTZNC, and all was running well. I recently decided to double my RAM with the same identical set as above (exact same model number) however, all the speeds are all over the place, and I don't know how to fix it. I don't know overclocking and I'm not brilliant with BIOS stuff. Shouldn't all the speeds be 3600 MHz? CPU-Z shows slots 1 & 2 as running 2666 MHz, and slots 3 & 4 as running 2132 MHz. The BIOS shows DIMM A1 & B1 as running 2666 MHz, and DIMM A2 & B2 as running 2133 MHz. Screenshots of CPU-Z and my BIOS are attached, and my current system specs are as follows. CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 3900X 12-Core MOBO: ASUS TUF GAMING X570-PLUS (WI-FI) RAM: G.SKILL TRIDENT Z NEO 4x16GB DDR4-3600 GPU: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1080Ti PSU: Corsair RM850 Help / advice appreciated. Cheers.
  12. I realise that I never posted where I got to with this topic, so here was the result. After troubleshooting for a really long time (months), I found that the M.2 drive had more or less died, and locked writing which I believe is what SSD's do when they're about to stop working. I installed Windows onto a new drive and migrated what I could across from the old installation which fixed the issue. I kept the old M.2 in the system to see what would happen, and sure enough after another month or two, the drive became completely inaccessible and dead.
  13. Still haven't been able to resolve this issue. I threw the main boot M.2 SSD into another PC so I could run CrystalDiskInfo. Below are the results. Not sure why it is so bad?
  14. I've cleared any readonly attributes, though, using chkdsk still shows write protected. From an article that I read online, if it shows that it is write protected it is either that the attributes are set as readonly or that the partition file system is corrupted. So I guess mine is looking like the latter . I haven't the faintest idea why any of this would have happened...
  15. Since automatic startup repair was also failing, I tried the steps listed on this website. https://www.thewindowsclub.com/automatic-repair-couldnt-repair-pc Still no luck as seen below.
  16. Also, I should add: Are you planning to take RAW photos? Or are you just taking photos and saving them? I take all of my photos in RAW and then edit them through the camera raw plugin in Photoshop CC. If you are not planning to edit RAW photos, then you're going to be looking for a camera that has good colour processing out of the box without editing.
  17. I've just tried this however hit a roadblock. If I just have the C drive (SSD) connected I get: Total identified Windows installations: 1 But then can't continue; And, if I try it with both C & D drives connected and run "bootrec /rebuildbcd" I get: Total identified Windows installations: 0
  18. I've thrown my 1st media drive in another PC to see what is on it. It is just storage + WindowsApps & Program Files. I have just transplanted my daily 1080ti into the system, though still the same. Pretty much. When turning on the system, I'll get to the login page as per usual. Once I type in the password and hit enter, it'll take a good 10 minutes or so to get to the desktop. Then on the desktop, nothing works. No start menu, no pinned taskbar icons, taskbar unresponsive. Desktop icons are present but inoperable. I can use a shortcut for task manager, and then after 5-10 minutes it'll pop up. And even in safe mode it's just the same.
  19. Personally, I'd go for either the Nikon or the Sony. The Sony is great for traveling as it is compact, and takes great photos. I've taken mine on plenty of travels and it's nice and inconspicuous. The Nikon is better if you are planning to go down a photography path thanks to better upgradability with lenses etc. The Sony & Nikon can both take 60fps video (1080p) whereas the Canon can only do 30fps. That's my knowledge.
  20. Depends on your use case. Is it for photography or videography primarily? I've had a Sony Alpha a5000 for a few years which is a great compact DSLR for photos, no complaints. You should probably compare lens compatibility and also have a look at some sample photos and online reviews.
  21. I've ordered several things from them over the years, mostly SSD's. I've also been to one of their stores in person - they seem pretty good to me.
  22. So, I've tried safe mode to no avail. Now, the odd thing is, I've disconnected my media drives and now when booting I just get; "Reboot and Select proper Boot device or Insert Boot Media in selected Boot device and press a key_" The boot drive is recognized so I'm not sure what's going on here... I have a few spare GPU's that I can try. Unfortunately due to the CPU that I've got, it needs a GPU for video output.
  23. My server is in a pretty unhappy condition at the moment and I need some help to fix it. It will turn on and I can login to Windows and get to the desktop, however, everything seems to freeze up from there. The taskbar and desktop don't load properly and I can't even open the start menu. I usually leave it running all of the time as a Plex server and only access it via Teamviewer and Pulseway as it is not usually connected to a monitor. A short while ago, the server lost internet access whilst I was watching something on Plex. I checked on it using Pulseway and Teamviewer but couldn't get a connection. I verified that the internet was working fine, and forced the server off using the power button. Then, since turning on again, it takes minutes to get to the desktop, but then nothing happens. Everything freezes and I am unable to open anything. Any ideas without doing a full Windows reset? Server / HTPC Details: CPU - AMD Ryzen 5 1500X MOBO - ASRock AB350 Gaming-ITX/ac Mini ITX RAM - Corsair Vengeance LPX 8GB DDR4-2666 GPU - EVGA GeForce GTX780 PSU - SeaSonic G550 OS - Windows 10 Home (OEM) BOOT DRIVE - ADATA SX6000 M.2 SSD MEDIA DRIVE - Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM MEDIA DRIVE - Seagate Ironwolf 10TB NAS HDD
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