Beef Boss

Got a new case, the Corsair 4000D RGB. That was a treat to build in tbh - but my PSU died shortly after lol. So, also got a new PSU also Corsair. 
 

I do love the Corsair AF fans, pretty quiet and move a lot of air - thinking of upgrading my CPU cooler fans to the same. 
 

22 hours ago, CommanderAlex said:

Anytime!!

 

If there's still an issue, we're always here to help! 

Just an update - I got the new PSU and everything works amazingly. Really appreciate the help. thank you. 
 

the GPU spiked on cyberpunk to 280w of usage which before would max at 200 watts - I almost fear 850 watts isn’t enough haha. 
 

1 minute ago, CommanderAlex said:

That's rated as Tier A on the PSU tier list (with Tier A being the highest), yeah that's a unit I typically recommend. 

 

I would highly recommend using the cables that come with the power supply, especially modular power supplies. Never try to mix power cables as they can use different pinouts on the PSU<->cable side that can use GND/#V at different pins and send to the wrong pins on the component end. I've seen quite a few threads where people get lazy and just swap the PSU and use the cables from a different PSU manufacturer and blow up their SATA drives, just as an example. 

 

Is this kit like a CableMod kit or just a generic kit off say Amazon? If your going down this route, I'd recommend going with the correct CableMod kit for the PSU or custom sleeve the cables yourself, which can be very laborious. 

I can’t thank you enough for your help, I really appreciate it - I will use the supplied Corsair cables then! 

1 minute ago, CommanderAlex said:

Definitely a PSU issue!! I'd recommend changing out the unit if it's one of EVGA's lower end units and go for something like Corsairs RM/RMx series or EVGA G2. If that unit is near or at the end of its warranty, then I'd recommend changing. PSUs can kill other components when they decide to go. 

Okay, would you think the RM850x from Corsair would be good? It’s an 850w gold PSU - one of the few that’s available locally. 
 

Also, would it be wise to use the cables it comes with - I bought a cable mod kit to dress the system up but have seen mixed issues online. 
 

thank you so much for your help.

Just now, CommanderAlex said:

What power supply model are you using? Make, model, and wattage is good info to have. IIRC, those power lights for the cables on the card are typically for if there is an issue with the power coming into the card. 

I believe it’s an EVGA 750w bronze, I did reuse that - so it is around 3 years old now. I’m thinking when the PC pulls a lot of power, I was playing starfield, it goes kaput, so probably a PSU issue? 
 

15 minutes ago, CommanderAlex said:

Oh, just sounds like from the original post you had a 1660 in this system. 

 

Shouldn't have an effect but is BIOS up to date to support the 5600X3D? Running daisy chain or separate PCIe power to the 7700XT? Check power connections to make sure they are fully seated. 

Running a few updates on the chipset drivers and such, I have two eight pin connections going to the gpu, no daisy chaining - though I had just seen the red light on the GPU above the power connectors looking into why that is, or was.. I had loaded up a game to see if it would work but the computer crashed again. 

1 minute ago, CommanderAlex said:

Have you used DDU to remove the Nvidia drivers before installing the AMD drivers?

This was on a previous build, this build has all new storage drives - the nvidia card has never been installed here. 

Hey there, had a weird moment where my PC crashed - only output on one port of the gpu. Resolved it by uninstalling AMD adrenaline and having windows install a driver - then it worked. 
Any ideas on why this sort of thing could’ve happened? I’ve had a 1660 Super before and I’ve crashed it OC’ing, but I haven’t OC’d this card. 
system info :

5600x3d

32gb of 3200mhz gskill

asus 7700xt tuf gaming

asus b550 tuf gaming ii 

I just recently built this system and have about 10-15 hours on it. Always watch temps and nothing goes above 60c. 
 

just weirded out as mentioned I had over clocked an nvidia card had it crash but never reinstalled graphics, but I’ve been treating my new card like a baby. 
 

if anyone has any insight I’d appreciate it, thank you. 

12 minutes ago, OhioYJ said:

Wix let's you search for filters by size. If you find one that you think might work, you can click on the part number and it will tell you the application.  Swatching that application on the same site would let you know if a charcoal version is available. IIRC Wix makes 3 types of cabin air filters. 

 

As for making them, a real aquarium store would have all sorts of filter material. Not a chain place like PetSmart or Jacks, a real Aquarium store. I used to buy all sorts of filter material from a locally owned place here in town for my fish tanks. That might be another option?

Thank you for this. Really appreciate that!

Weird question here - anyone have experience making their own cabin air filters? It’s getting more and more difficult sourcing the air filters for my Mazda protege much less even finding a single filter for less than 50 dollars on eBay. 
 

No North American protégés came with cabin air filters, I like installing them for obvious reasons. The only ones that work are for the Mazda premacy which has the same internal air box but are a European/ Asian based version. 
 

I’m thinking of just cutting out the old filter media, while it is super tough with the charcoal inside, and putting a big bead of glue down to adhere the new media to the frames of the filter. 
 

are there any other North American cars that came with a charcoal filter? 
 

Hello all

not sure what to really look up when I’m researching a solution for this situation but I figured I’d post here and see if anyone has suggestions. 
 

I’m looking for a solution to broadcast basically a webpage from a local physical machine on kiosk mode in chrome to three or more TV’s. The machine is connected via Ethernet to our network, and the TV’s would need to have a wireless interface between them and our AP’s. 
 

the physical machine only has that Ethernet connection, but I was wondering if there’s a scalable budget friendly option. Something that uses our AP’s to connect with, and maybe a sort of HDMI device to plug into the TV that does not require external power. 
 

the ideal solution is something like a web client that finds the receivers on the TV’s that are wirelessly connected. 
 

not sure if something like this exists, any suggestions or guidance would be greatly welcomed. Thank you. 

3 hours ago, 8tg said:

Filter air and look like flesh 

Thank you for this

6 hours ago, 8tg said:

Air filter

its red, like flesh

but it’s not flesh, it’s filter

 

What does it do

6 minutes ago, Bitter said:

I really like the Conti DWS, the current iteration is a big step up from the previous versions but I'm not sure it's in your size. If the wheel width allows a "+0” size might be available. Can't stray too far from original diameter since it throws off speedo and odo readings. For +0 you'd be like 205/55R15 maybe, check a tire size calculator to check it's within a couple % of stock. Also that's why you need to know width, might be too wide to safely mount on current wheels. Not a lot of good 15" tires around. Might be worth it to grab a set of 16" wheels used off a later Mazda, pretty sure the 3 wheels fit your car? I'm running 16" 6 wheels on my 626 to clear the 6 front brakes and give me better tire size options, nothing in the original size that's outstanding. 

Yeah that's the sucky situation I'm in, since my car is four lug. I was hoping to have had switched out to five lug last summer but that didn't work out with some family emergencies lol. I'm definitely going to be switching it sometime, but I can't drive on these tires much longer I don't want to risk an accident or something.

When I do that swap it'll definitely be getting the better brakes from the 6, and an engine swap will be following haha. Just gotta graduate college first

4 hours ago, Bitter said:

What's the stock size? What width wheels? Year round driver? Comfort or sport preference?

I'm honestly not sure the size of the wheel, they're oem wheels, I have a 195 on and it's like perfectly square. It's a year round driver, but I prefer a softer tire material for grip. I was looking at the Yokohama ascend GT tires I found them for 108 near me in a 195/60/R15. I have additional sound deadening material all in that car so road noise and that isn't really a concern.

Washed up my car and thought I'd post a picture here. Definitely due for some new tires, not to spark any controversy but any recommendations? Runs a 195 r15 not sure a good sidewall height I have a 55 on now and it's a little rough but handles amazing as the proteges do. I have the toyo Extensa on now, but I wasn't ever a fan of em. Any help?

5 hours ago, Bitter said:

Slid in a sheet of cardboard to cover half my radiator, I'll find out tomorrow if it helps with highway heat. Kind of bummed my 180 stat is working correctly and that my heat sucks this much with it. It's easy to swap it out but I just hate that the only 190 stat is a shitty MotoRad part and I fear it'll be as slow to open as my old one and have the cooling fan running all the time again.

Yeah, not sure if you saw my recent experience I had two motorads fail in a row after single use... And a Napa branded one they "sell to shops all the time"... What a pain in the butt! Waste of gaskets and coolant haha

On 1/7/2022 at 10:59 AM, bcredeur97 said:

buying OEM thermostats isn't a terrible idea tbh. (if you can find one). 

I know the OEM vs aftermarket thermostats on my miata were a lot different. 

Yeah we probably share the same thermostat, I have the 1.6L protege.dunno if yours is different displacement though I doubt it changes much.

Not sure the Tama is OEM but they do make OEM parts for cars so... Yeah it was different than the one that more than likely came with the car 21 years ago... Dang thing wasn't even in F just Celsius. Car warms up a ton faster, sure it was 23 bucks, compared to the eight dollar ones everywhere else but it works... The others do not. I also changed the water pump to a Gates branded one, the fins were much bigger if that changes much haha.

Two bad motorad thermostats and a bad NAPA brand thermostat later... Rockauto sent my two wrong brand thermo stats today, and the NAPA one were all defective out the box...

Thank God I also ordered a Tama one... What a waste of time today.

Anyone ever order off those OEM Mazda websites? Never have cause the prices always higher than what is OEM quality from rockauto. Definitely a learning process on what to get OEM and what not to...

On 10/22/2021 at 10:16 PM, bcredeur97 said:

to be honest I'm surprised you had issues with the original coils, I'm pretty sure we had the same ones and they are really solid. I don't ever seen people replacing them because of a failure. It's more the wires I worry about, I had replaced the two wires on mine with the NGK set but even that wasn't as good as the OEM from what I could tell. They work fine, just don't fit as well.

Mines a 1.8 BP6D. Very similar to yours, just with extra fancy stuff like VVT and piston oil squirters (well..."fancy" for 2002). They didn't have the 2.0L until the NC generation (2006)

Yeah, I didn't have issues with the OEM ones until it shot a spark into it... Out the head. So I got Delphi coils, thinking that'd be okay? Nah it wasn't lol. The oem is cheap enough on rockauto to change out every oil change lol, not that I would of course... Yeah I think the oem wires are denso? Wish I got them instead of the ngk... But I will replace em some other time, getting decent gas mileage and such so I can't complain.

On 10/18/2021 at 9:09 PM, bcredeur97 said:

Reminds me of the coil/wire setup on my NB with the VVT motor.

I believe the 1.6 from the miata and my motor are SIMILAR but not exactly the same. I know some parts fit some don't... I've heard the 1.6 and the 2.0 honestly run about the same, and the 1.6 handling higher RPM's... Regardless its what I got and I drive daily haha! I try to maintain it the most I can, and have had minimal issues. This year I went over board with replacement parts, just so I wouldn't worry about à majority of things, coils, sensors, fuel pump... Yada Yada.

Been on the hunt for good coils, been trying to find the OEM Mitsubishi ones forever but didn't wanna spend 300+ on two coils. Pulled the trigger on NGK coils after using Delphi coils left the car feeling shakey. New coils, wires and ruthenium plugs feels totally different!

I imagine the NGK just rebranded these Mitsubishi coils, but the insides are not clear, the potting material is black. Whatever the case, the car runs much better with these units, do sort of wish I went with denso wires since that was OEM... But these NGK got here quicker.

Also wanna mention I switched to liquimoly products on this car... Their oil is pretty great, fun bottles all around. I switched to the ATF 1800 did a full flush and it drives immaculate now. Hasn't been running oem fluid for a long time since they don't make dex II no more, pair all that with the new coils and she rides like a dream!

I've been trolled today by my car, I've been trying to diagnose and fix some weird issues with just lack of power and now recently cold stalling issues. So I replaced the items that normally would go out on an older vehicle. I've put in new coils, MAF, plugs(a few times), sparkplug wires, cam sensor, fuel pump assembly, egr valve, MAP sensor and actuator. Well today just messing around I took the throttle position sensor off and lo-and behold it's not OEM. I owned the car for the past four years, and it's been in the family from the lot so how it got there is beyond anyone. So, I frequently visit the junkyard and had an OEM one from a four year older car. Slapped it in, starts up just fine, and idles better. Smh

I don't mind spending the money on parts, they're cheap for the car and I need it to be reliable for my school transportation but dang, haha.

I just got a replacement, but it seems to have a lack of an actual chip, or the new systems are much more complicated. Attached is a picture of it, quite some bigger than normal and it's much lower than a typical chip is set into the surface of the material

Hi! I was wondering what is recommended here for a comfy mouse for pc gaming. I currently use a Logitech MX master and I love it, but I also use a cooler master mouse and its really not that great. Wired or wireless, DPI adjustment would be nice, not too heavy like the MX master, forward and backward side buttons and side scroll is very nice but not needed. any help would be great, thank you. I dont use the MX master for gaming because my pc does not have bluetooth, and I think its rather heavy for gaming but if its not and im just being a wimp, do tell me that and I'll just buy a bluetooth module.