JamesHewitt

All PC fans are 12v DC, but at lower voltages will just spin slower. So you can find AC power to 3 pin adapter (I think), can definitely find USB to 3 pin fan, and then just use a USB power adapter for a phone, they will just be at 5v which is fine. 

There are two good options in my opinion:
Option 1: 
Get a AC/DC adapter for 12V and power standard PC fans with it. If you want to speed control them, you could get a buck converter and lower the voltage. Or you could go a bit more fancy and build or buy a standalone fan controller. There are lots of arduino / esp projects wich exactly your goal in mind. Option 1 involves some tinkering and you should be comfortable with it.

Option 2: Get a mains voltage fan. There are standard sized (same sizes as case fans) mains voltage fans. But for your usecase you have more options. You can get them even with a already attached plug. So just put them in a socket and you're done. 

No, you'll use 3 separate cables.  They're included in your PSU box.
 
You can use the daisy chains, but they only have 2x  8pin setups on them and they're not the recommended way to power a card.  

That silicone I linked to on Amazon is available at pretty much any auto repair store, and most hardware stores actually.  If you don't have any plastic razor blades, you might eventually pick some up (just example link, they sell smaller amounts). They are great for cleaning up things like silicone without damaging surfaces.

Basically any sort of silicone, even gasket maker works

I've always used silicone. Permatex Ultra Black specifically as I always have that in the garage.  Silicone cleans up easily, makes it easily removable again if needed. Just remember, you need a super thin layer, smear it on with a finger or something. Less is more, it doesn't take much.

I've used UHU 46735, high temp silicone sealant. Basically the same stuff intel puts on the CPU in the first place

Yea. I'll try to get another cooler to test. If issue persist, ill have to delid and replace with liquid metal since its out of warranty already. I believe it might be the cpu/sensor faulty since its only 1 temperature reading at 90 degree and the rest are normal. Thanks guys.

If you've replaced the thermal paste, try a different cooler just to be safe.
 
Otherwise it could be a faulty CPU / Sensor.
 
If it is out of warranty, maybe de lid and use liquid metal inside? 

So go disable secure boot then try this again?

I despise how Flight Sim updates, the way you have to sit on that screen listening to the music when you could be playing another game.

In short Microsoft dumb dumb stinky. Understood and thank you!

The way that flight sim downloads is a funny one. It's often capped at a certain speed and sometimes can't go that fast as it downloads a bit, then unpacks it, then downloads again, unpacks and so on, so reaches a limit. Sadly it takes a long, long time.

In short Microsoft dumb dumb stinky. Understood and thank you!

Got nothing to add, but will say that the title was hilarious.

You could try ordering sample packs directly from ZealPC, or Novelkeys if you're interested in Kailh switches. It's a bit of an additional cost up front but could save you from buying the wrong thing.

Zealios V2s are a very solid switches and they're much nicer than MX Reds or Razer Yellows you've had in the K70/Blackwidow.
 
Some switches, such as MX Silent Reds, have sound dampening built into them.

A lot depends on personal preference. Clicky, tactile or linear, (if tactile or clicky, what sort of tactile bump), silenced or not silenced, whether or not you care about the RGB lighting (i.e. if you need a clear transparent housing, coloured transparent housing, or don't care), other particular things you care about.

Hey guys, almost finished my build. 5820k @4.4ghz, 16gb DDR4 @2666, Zotac amp extreme core 1080ti. Cablemod stuff and top fan coming tomorrow
 
As you can see though, the 1080ti is sagging a bit. Anyone know of a decent support bracket or something to stop this?
 
Thanks for le help, James
 
Edit: I'm in the UK so if possible stuff from here

Turns out it can actually fit a 140 in the back and so 

I'll give the gpu a test in a new system come morning. I always do clean driver installs and remove overclock but hopefully it will work. 

Case already looks choked af so I don't think the lava lamp is hurting it much more.

"Note: We are aware of an issue where 1st Generation Scarlett Solo and 2i2 cannot be used as an input and output device simultaneously in some WDM applications (such as Skype, Discord, TeamSpeak etc). If you encounter this then please ensure that you have installed our latest driver from the Downloads section of our site."
 
from Focusrite website, seems to be a problem with Windows 10 Fall Creators update, maybe you updated to it late.
 
https://customer.focusrite.com/sites/default/files/focusrite/downloads/32405/focusriteusbinstaller4.36.5-612.exe
here's the link to the driver

That my friend, is the undeniable hum of a class D amplifier. They have a very high noise floor. Generally, you can reduce the perceived volume by moving them farther away from your sitting location.

he4xx or akg k7xx are both good and comfortable, and much easy to drive. I used k701 before and now im using he400i, pretty similar in terms of performance, just the difference in characteristic due to driver tech difference.
don't buy hd598, it is a scam, i don't know why so many people still recommending this.