artkingjw

I might just DIY a solution: Get one of these clamps, and stick/glue my preferred cable clip on top.

I found something kinda similar for lighting rigs instead of desks... https://www.cosmomusic.ca/on-stage-lta4880-lighting-clamp-with-cable-management-system---pair/p

Thanks for the suggestion. This one is interesting, does it clamp well? or does it move very easily? It's also limited to 3 cables though, was hoping for a bigger bunch.

Hi, this feels like a stupid product to want but does a cable management clip exist that uses a clamp system instead of double sided tape? I've attached 2 images of adhesive cable management clips. Surely there must be some sort of C-clamp version out there? I just want something to gather a big bunch of cables, at a position near the edge of my desk, and keep them neatly there. But I want to be able to reposition them without dealing with double sided tape, nor having to drill/re-drill into my desk top? Even a C clamp that has a loop on top to take a cable tie would be good. Anyone seen something similar? Cheers

@mariushm thanks for the suggestion. I think the fans I have don't respond to low voltages well. I remember using them in my PC case, with a potentiometer fan speed adjuster, and the fans had trouble spinning up at the low speed setting. Also, I believe PWM can go much lower than voltage adjustments alone, which would be the purpose of going PWM for this case.

Hi all, I have an unconventional request, but can anyone recommend some sort of standalone PWM controller to power some spare PWM fans that I have. This is NOT for building a PC, but for a side project, where I need a small amount of silent airflow only. Ideally, this would be some sort of hub, with a knob. An Arduino based solution could work, but would take some time as I'm not familiar with it. I would rather not try to source a CPU+motherboard+PSU just for this purpose if I can help it. Any recommendations will be appreciated. Thanks.

Hi all, I haven't seen this posted yet, but Tech Deals had a live stream with relevant discussion. I'm still very early in the VOD, but one of the ideas raised was having an Editor in Chief (they also cite Dr Cutress for this idea)... Seems like a very balanced and informative discussion so far. EDIT: I did a search for 'tech deals' - didn't flag anything, but apologies if i missed it, this thread is LONG. EDIT2: I'm much further into the VOD now, and wow this is good. In a, very level-head, wise uncle sort of way. I don't think he has all of the info, but he seems to know enough to have useful opinions. A shame that it just won't be as popular because it doesn't promote outrage in the way that GN, LMG, many others tend to.

Just wanted to echo agreement on OP's opinion. This thread has been reasonable so far. I feel like unions have been romanticized too much in the recent past. I am a member of a union. They can be good for certain things, but IMO are often bad for many others.

To get back on topic, here are my absolutely worthless 2 cents. To me, the answer feels more like it should be "No... but they have to stop VERY soon". To me, it feels like they have been growing too fast for too long. They will need time to consolidate, then grow again when the time is right. This is just based on how I've observed the teams that I've been apart of grow over time. Obviously anecdotal, many solutions exist, etc.

Yea, but USB ports tend to fail more often as they are meant to be used often. Think about how often you would be expected to insert/remove a flash drive. The contacts can wear out, the plug material can also wear out and loosen. A SATA data port just sits there, and (usually, and in my case) rarely gets touched after the build. Oh well thanks for your suggestion.

UPDATE: I tried to isolate variables by swapping ports and cables. During this process, all drives started working again. This sounds like a loose cable situation, even though no cable was loose, and all my SATA data cables had the metal latch on them. My best guess is improper contact of a pin due to oxidation or something... I remember cleaning sim cards years ago when a phone didn't detect the inserted sim. Some light rubbing tended to remove any dirt/oxide layer. The process of swapping ports must have had enough abrasion to clear the contact patch on an affected pin. Seems like the problem is solved for now...

Hi all, I have a Ryzen 1700x + ASUS B350 Prime Plus system, built in 2017. There haven't been many upgrades/changes since then, cable managed very cleanly, with slack for all cables etc. I'm wondering how likely it is that one SATA port on my MoBo has died? or would it more likely be my SATA cable? Recently, one of my HDD's (Disk A) disappeared from Windows, and appeared as RAW in Windows Disk Management, BUT trying to do anything to the disk (change to 'offline', reformat etc) lead to Disk Management becoming irresponsive. CrystalDisk said it was fine though, SMART stats looked ok. It also prevented my PC from shutting down, and booting into Windows. These issues stopped after I physically disconnected Disk A from the computer. However, Disk A was usable through a HDD toaster. Plugging a new HDD (Disk B) into the same SATA port lead to similar symptoms as before. Plugging Disk B into a different SATA port did not show any problems. I'm frantically backing up data from the original 'failed' (but not failed) disk now, just in case. Disk A is a Seagate, which makes me slightly more paranoid. I haven't swapped the SATA data cables, nor SATA power cables yet. However, all of my drives share SATA power from the same daisy chain. If the problem is as I fear, the MoBo... how likely is it for my other SATA ports to also fail? Should I get a new MoBo ASAP? I'm kinda in a busy period of life now, using this computer for work... Thanks

Hi all, I need some help with a storage spaces storage pool. OS: Windows 10 Pro SATA Drives: Samsung SSD (Boot), DVD-RW, 2 x WD Blue 4TB, 2 x other HDD's I have two 4TB drives setup in two-way mirror mode via storage spaces, many years ago. The pool is almost full now, and one of the drives is showing some pending sectors, so I snagged two new 8TB drives in a good deal. I intend to replace 2 x 4TB (mirror'd) drives with 2 x 8TB drives, maintaining it in NTFS, and maintaining all data since I have some programs installed in this pool. I'm wondering what the best approach is? I've seen some tutorials on how to do this for drives of the same size, but not for different (larger) new drives, which I expect would create some issues? I also clicked the 'upgrade pool' button, which I understand is some sort of new feature, so I'm not sure if it affects how previous tutorials work. I use the DVD-RW drive, and the two other HDD's for work data. Therefore, it would be best to minimize the downtime of these drives if possible. The way I see it, one way would be to remove the other two work HDD's - mount the 2 new 8TB drives, and set up a new storage pool on those drives. Then, copy everything from the old pool into the new pool, unmount the old pool and rename the new pool's drive path. Is this sensible? Thanks in advance for your feedback.

Here is a list of official CPU's supported, which I believe is used in the Serve The Home article on these things: https://www.dell.com/support/manuals/en-au/optiplex-7060-desktop/opti_7060_sff_setup_specs_manual/processor?guid=guid-e178c653-4f96-4d67-8c6e-0d7e87454d21&lang=en-us After some more digging, I found this: https://www.dell.com/community/Optiplex-Desktops/Optiplex-7060-SFF-Upgrade-from-i5-8500-to-i7-9700/m-p/7776901/highlight/true#M47761 It suggests my mod will most likely work, with some tinkering. Just need to make sure that the cooling config + power supply are adequate (the G5400 is a 58W TDP chip, so it is incompatible with the i5-8500T, but will be compatible with the 65W normal 8500). Dell seems to sell two variants of the same computer - the T class processors get a 90W PSU, while the normal processors get a 130W PSU. I'll also need to check if there's a RAID config that gonna mess with the processor swap. There's also an unofficial BIOS for 9th gen support. EDIT: If anyone is wondering, I did end up snagging a 7060 for a good price, and I did swap it's 8500 (non-T) for my G5400. Both machines still work. The T version uses less power, so I didn't trust a prebuilt with that CPU to deliver the same wattage, those also tend to come with a lower spec power brick. The non-T version has a comparable wattage to the G5400, so with the supplied power brick, everything works as expected.

The 'T' just means it's a lower power consumption chip, it's clocked lower, everything else seems to be the same as the 'normal' 8500. It doesn't seem to be a mobile lower chip though.