sam_fisher007

Rig: MSI H110-i mini i5-6600 MSI RX480 16gb DDR4 2400mhz Gskill kit 650w Silverstone modular 80GOLD Silverstone Fortress FTZ01 Cooling: Primochill VUE candy purple EK 240mm slim rad EKSupremacy EVO cpu block EK Nickel FC-RX480 gpu block EK Black nickel 10/13mm fittings EK Res x3 EK-XTOP DDC 3.2 pwm pump

I think, it could be the motherboard. Even if its something really obscure, or a one off fault which is preventing the two pieces of hardware to work properly together. Either get another brand of gtx1080 (maybe its the board design) or get another motherboard.

Hi Everyone I've had another bad idea that I would like to bring to fruition. I am a big fan of small form factor PC's and doing things the hard way. I also like water cooling, not because I like to push my hardware to its limits with crazy OC, but rather for aesthetics and just generally lower thermal threshold. There are plenty of guys building awesome water cooled PC's inside of micro atx cases both soft and hard tubing, but what about a super compact mini-itx monster. Bitwit build a Node 202 with an AIO on youtube, and that's cool, but that's not quite challenging enough. I plan to use every square mm of space to cramp a full water loop, cpu and gpu, into a Silverstone Fortress FTZ01, without changing the overall look of the case inside or out. This will also be my first Intel power computer, yay. But only because AMD doesn't have any AM3 mini-itx boards, and I don't feel like waiting for ryzen. So let get started.. Here's what I'm cramming into this build: MSI H110I pro Mini-ITX Core i5 6600 (with EK Supremacy EVO Nickel block) 2x8GB GSkill DDR4@2133mhz MSI RX480 reference (with EK-FC Acetal Nickel block) Samsung 512GB 950PRO M.2 NVM express Silverstone SFX Gold 600w SX600-G Silverstone Fortress FTZ01 Black (apparently a white version is available) EK-XTOP DDC 3.2 PWM Elite pump plexi XSPC EX120 radiator (I also have a thicker RX120 V3, but no way I could fit it in without the fan protruding on the outside) XSPC LCD Temp display (comes with G1/4in plug sensor This was the best layout for the radiator I could do as I will be utilising the SSD mount to the right of it to mount the pump I used a paint marker to find my drill points. Those feet on the pump are rubber and come with this pump. They are an awesome addition!! The outlet is on he right on the bottom The pump came with a 4pin and a molex connector, silly and inconvenient. The molex provides 12v and the 4 pin is pwm control from the cpu header.. SO WHY NOT USE THE 12V FROM THE CPU HEADER?????? Why EK, why? I went out and bought some pins and rewired the 4pin connector using the intel fan as a guide This is how the wiring came on the pump Added some heat shrink to cables as they will run behind the motherboard Card in place with the fittings lined up. The fittings will sit between the side of the case and the radiator. Not much space there but it works out I am only using a minimal arrangement of cables for the psu. All devices requiring additional 12v or 5v power have been rewired to utilise power from either fan headers or the USB headers (more on this later). Therefore no molex or sata power cables are needed. I was able to run these cables through the psu bracket and from behind Tubing is EK DuraClear 3/8ID 1/2OD. Anything thicker would be impossible in such a small case... unless I was to use more 90degree angle fittings. Something I will need to do later on (spoiler) when I get a bigger rad The SSD is mounted behind the motherboard near the pcie slot. I forgot to take a picute of it, so you'll just have to trust me If it bleeds, we can.. run it? This was a huge pain in the rear. There was practically no way to get rid of every bubble, but as I found out later, over time and with varying pump speeds (thanks to the pwm control) the system bled itself perfectly. Took a few days. The brass T you see at the top is the highest point in the tower when the case is sitting upright. When the loop was completely bled, I topped off the water level in my fill tube and kinked the hose at the end then used a cable tie to keep it kinked. The plug at the end I made using a straight fitting and a bottle cap. Some hot glue seals the two pieces. If you look below the LCD temp readout, you can see I am using the 5v out from an available USB header. This case uses a USB3.0 header. And there she is. PWM control keeps the fans and pump nice and quiet at idle and the motherboard allow me to control fan speeds according to temps in the uefi. And that's where I stumbled on my first hurdle, temps. That poor single 120mm rad just isn't up to the task of cooling both the cpu and gpu. Temps are ok at idle, both about the 40 degree mark, but when I play BF1 for example, temp soar to the high 80's. I'm already speculating a slim profile dual rad by EK, just need to do some measurements. Unfortunately, this means I will need to find another place for the pump. Quick disconnects would also come in handy when filling the loop, so I am tracking down some of those, though its proving difficult to find them in 3/8ID 1/2OD size.

Maybe see if the retailer would be kind enough to exchange it for another card from their stock. Or take the PC to them and replicate the problem for them to see. Could be that some part of your computer (i.e. motherboard) just doesn't like working along side your gpu. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^WILD GUESS^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ But totally plausible

Second hand would be a great option. Something with at least 2gb vram. Radeon hd7770 would be best suited for your 400watt psu. Or a 2gb hd6950. My mate is looking to sell one of these $60(AUD) +shipping with aftermarket air cooler

This sounds like one of those hard to explain, better if you see for yourself situatios.

If i was home I'd get on skype and help you out. No fee. Unless you can wait another 3 hours till i finish work?

Can you resend the link? There arent any parts listed.

Check out the SilverStone PT13B-120 Thin mini-itx case. Comes with a 120w external power brick. Throw a ASRock Z170M-ITX/ac (which has intergrated wifi), 8gb of ram and an i5-6600 and compliment it with any asd of your choice and you have something very compact and capable for minecraft or runes cape. I used to play black ops on my laptop which has some i5 2.7gh dual core with integrated graphics. Worked well on 1080 at medium quality. That was not even a laptop meant for games.

Thats very creative, just keep 2 eyes on that cardboard at all times. Incase it catches fire. I would suggest layering the inside with some cheap automotive heat insulation or even fiberglass is inexpensive and will make the "case" more sturdy. Id also recommend making some standoffs.

The 480 can be aquired in either 4gb or 8gb, more that the 1060s 3gb. Games are becoming more vram hungry. Also more vram and faster memory will give advantage with higher resolution. But this particular case the 1060 is choice. Also the 1060 would be more suited with this evga 500w.

Rx480 was great when it was released for its price to performance ratio. But nvidias 1060 has struck a hole in my inner amd fan boi heart. If you choose the Rx480 get the xfx card. Its by far the best board design giving it great clock speeds and lower temps.

If you dont plan to overclock, then look at the i5-6600. It has a lower tdp of 65w and is like $ 20 cheaper. The K just means its unlocked and is specifically for OC.

Which OS are you using?

I3 6100. A dual core with hyperthreading, effectively a quadcore. For everyday use it looks like a good cpu for under $100