Kd4lif3

13 hours ago, -rascal- said:

 

We would need to the exact model...

"Rosewill 800 watt" is like saying "Toyota 4-door car with an engine..."

 

From the looks of the damage, the problem started at the PSU end.

The PCI-E connector / wires are are not rated for such high current.

Too low of a current rating, and the wires runs HOT, melting the plastic.

The melting plastic on the PCI-E connector, then starts melting the PCI-E sockets on the GPU side, since they are connected.

Right that makes sense. I looked at a compatibility list and it seems like the only listed power supplies are 1000 and 1200 watt units. I guess this is logical but I never would have thought to research this seeing as pc hardware compatibility tends to be pretty forgiving usually. 

11 minutes ago, freeagent said:

A quick trip to google says you are under powered and should be using 850-1000w..

 

That card is such a pig, I am impressed.

 

https://www.guru3d.com/articles-pages/amd-radeon-r9-295x2-review,12.html#:~:text=Here is Guru3D's power supply,power supply unit as minimum.

Fr? It has a 500 watt tdp. I knew that going in and figured that 800 should work if it was dedicated to the card alone.

41 minutes ago, FakeKGB said:

Which exact PSU was the card running off of?

I don't recall the exact model but it is a Roswell 800 watt. Relatively new.

Just now, Herman Mcpootis said:

were the 8-pin connectors on separate cables?

Yeah to clarify the cables were not split or daisy chained. These were two separate cables from two separate 12v ports on the psu.

I recently picked up a used r9 295x to mess around with but I ran into some issues when both 8 pin connectors on the card and the cables inserted into them melted. I was away from home and I had the card under a mining load. My dad messaged me that he smelled smoke and he had to shut the computer off. I checked my nice hash monitoring app which is on about a 5 minute delay. This told me that the card was running at about 68 degrees right up until it was shut off so it was not overheating. I had the card on a separate 800 watt power supply from what my system runs on so I cant rule it out as a variable as the rest of my system was fine. I tore the card down and found absolutely nothing indicating a short on the pcb. Does anyone know what might have caused this issue? My parents are understandably pissed but does anyone know if there was any actual risk of fire or would the system have hit a failsafe after the cables melted? I have attached a few photos of what the damage looks like below

.

Just now, jaslion said:

Damn that is surprisingly ok. Normally that card would be a negative gain.

Yeah I think it is just because my power is so cheap where I am. its like $0.05/KWh USD.

3 minutes ago, jaslion said:

How are you making money on a 295? That thing was barely profitable when it came out you have free electricity? If so more power to you.

 

Also about ocing the 295x2. DO NOT. Simply put unless this is custom loop watercooled DO NOT OC that thing will die as that air water hybrid cooler is just enough. So don't push it and leave it be as it's literally already on the edge of it's temp limit at stock.

 

If you want more money you need a stronger more efficient card ocing them often makes them worse for profit instead of better as they start consuming a lot more power for not much more performance.

From what I can tell given its power draw it costs me about 80 cents a day and it makes about $3. Given this I will probably sell it and find something more conventional on the used market. I've found that 1060s seem to make about as much anyway

I recently picked up a used R9 295x2 in great condition and I have got it in my rig for mining. I got it on a dedicated 850 psu and I am running lolMiner on nicehash. I feel like I am not generating the kind of hash rate I was anticipating. Right now each gpu is doing about 10Mhash and together they make me about $3 a day. I was hoping I could get closer to twice that but I cant seem to get much out of it by overclocking. I have the memory at 1400Mhz stable and pushing it to 1600 causes one of the gpus to give up. If I cant get the numbers up I will probably sell it and get another 1070 which can make more at a third the power draw. Does anyone have any experience with this card? There is very little in the way of literature or videos covering mining on this card in particular.

14 minutes ago, Bombastinator said:

 

kind of need to know what laptop.
UsbC can be anything from USB2 to USB3.1g2

 

If it’s USB2 you’d have problems.  It would need external power just to power the ports for one.  For another there very well might not be enough bandwidth to do what you want. 

https://www8.hp.com/ca/en/laptops/product-details/product-specifications/35610552

1 SuperSpeed USB Type-C® 5Gbps signaling rate (DisplayPort™ 1.4, HP Sleep and Charge); 1 SuperSpeed USB Type-A 5Gbps signaling rate (HP Sleep and Charge); 2 SuperSpeed USB Type-A 5Gbps signaling rate; 1 Mini DisplayPort™; 1 HDMI 2.0a; 1 RJ-45; 1 AC smart pin; 1

I just got an new laptop and its specs are about good enough to replace my desktop. The issue is that I want to keep my monitors and peripherals from the desktop setup. I need a docking station which has display port for my main monitor (144hz gsync), and a second port of any kind for my second monitor. There needs to be about 4 USB A for peripherals. The laptop does not have a lightening port so it will need to be compatible with usb C. The laptop also has a mini display port so that could go into the docking station if that is helpful. Any suggestions? 

59 minutes ago, RAM555789 said:

Check your NVIDIA control panel (right click on windows) or use GeForce experience to tweak the settings as War Thunder for sure is not using your GPU.

It is 100% set to use the gpu in control panel. 

59 minutes ago, BlueScope819 said:

Sorry what? Can you send a screenshot of task manager? What you are describing is physically impossible as the GPU can't access the IGP memory. It seems like that the 1660 ti isn't being assigned for War Thunder.

I 

I just got a new laptop recently and to give it a little performance test I figured I would play some war thunder on it. When I launched the game i got a warning saying that my settings were adjusted because I do not have enough video memory. This is strange because the laptop has a 6gb 1660ti which should be more than enough for the high preset. sure enough the game ran terribly. when I checked task manager It looked like the dedicated gpu was doing work but the memory was not being used. The integrated gpu memory was peaking out however. I have made sure the 1660 ti is the default preference in the nvidia control panel. Any solutions?

10 minutes ago, 5x5 said:

The G14 is excellent and one of the best laptops for 2020. Highly recommended.

Haha if only it was actually available here. I just came across this option as well 

https://www.costco.ca/hp-omen-15-en0010ca-gaming-laptop%2c-amd-ryzen-7-4800h.product.100673520.html

Ryzen 7 and 1660ti, sans extra gamer look and it is pretty affordable too. 

I should mention that the A15 is only available in the 2060 version on amazon unless i jump to the 17 which I do not feel like doing.

What is the opinion on this system? https://www.bestbuy.ca/en-ca/product/asus-rog-zephyrus-g14-14-gaming-laptop-grey-amd-ryzen-7-4800hs-512gb-ssd-16gb-ram-gtx-1660ti-en/14575596

I feel like it strikes a good balance and checks a lot of boxes for me. Plus it is 14" which is convenient. Unfortunately it is nonexistent in Canada and is also super marked up compared to the models availability in the states. Are there more systems like this and the A15 which I should look into?

1 minute ago, Hold-Ma-Beer said:

@Kd4lif3 Look for laptops with Ryzen 4000 series CPU. Great performance with equally great battery life as compared to current Intel offerings.

yeah ive heard a bit about that. Any specific suggestions? It seems like a lot of systems are still on the Intel bandwagon.

School is coming up and I will need to get a laptop sooner or later. I am going into an engineering program so I will need a laptop which is able to handle decent computational tasks like CAD.This means I will likely need some kind of dedicated GPU in addition to a decently powerful CPU. The search has left me with a bit of a predicament as I feel like I am left with two options. I can get a cheaper laptop which just fits the necessary specs and nothing more, or I can get one which will push the performance of my desktop which would justify me selling it to fund the laptop. My desktop runs a strix 1070, ryzen 5 3600x, 16gb ddr4 and nvme drive. Higher end laptops like the ROG Zephyrus G14 (the one with the 2060 and ryzen 9 at $2500 CAD) are stupid expensive however they also would basically surpass my PC altogether meaning I could sell it and just daily drive the laptop for everything. At the end of the day I would probably pay a similar amount if not even less than if I were to get something like a HP OMEN 15-ek0020ca or a Lenovo Legion Y540 ($1400-1800CAD). The HP and the Lenovo would suit my needs most likely but the irony is I would be spending more on the cheaper system if it is not powerful enough to replace my pc. I am not set on these options, they are just examples of my price point. Does anyone have any recommendations or some insight which can help me decide on what route I should go down? Ultimately I just need something which will fill the purpose and not look too gamer in class.

There is no way it is a key issue at this point. I have physically disconnected the control board from the dome layer so that no key strokes can be registered and somehow the space key is still being registered on screen. Disconnecting the keyboard altogether stops this so this tells me that it is a driver issue of some variety, I just do not know how to fix it. 

20 minutes ago, Bombastinator said:

Rubber domes have a limited lifespan.  It’s why people spend so much on mechanical keyboards.

Keyboard might just be worn out.  If it’s mechanical fix or replacement of switch might be needed.

1 minute ago, Bombastinator said:

Rubber domes have a limited lifespan.  It’s why people spend so much on mechanical keyboards.

Keyboard might just be worn out.  If it’s mechanical fix or replacement of switch might be needed.

Not sure exactly what could be broken with they key. The dome is intact and there is nothing on the traces underneath. Might be time for a new keyboard anyway but I really don’t feel like spending that kind of money if I don’t need to. Also there is too much of a pattern to the button pressing and giving it a smack has no impact on the pattern so I highly doubt it is hardware. 

16 minutes ago, HairlessMonkeyBoy said:

Are you getting pranked? 

Don’t think so. I don’t have any remote control software on my pc and like I said, it was working just 8hours ago.

Edit: Nothing is typed when the keyboard is not plugged in to it cant be anything external besides the keyboard itself or some software interaction with the keyboard.

So I started up my pc today and I figured I’d play a little bit of BF4 before my friends got on. Once I got in game I found myself jumping inexplicably. I thought my space key was jammed but this wasn’t the case as it moved freely. I proceeded to restart my pc and open a search bar to see if the space bar issue persisted and sure enough it did. I took off my key cap and the plunger to make sure nothing was jammed and it does not appear that it is. Opening a keyboard testing website shows that the key will be normal for a few seconds before looking as if it is being spammed with increasing frequency before it stops being pressed just to start up again a moment later. I have removed the keyboard from the devices section of settings and I have updated drivers on device manager but to no avail. I’ve tried different USB ports and still nothing new. I don’t see any strange programs running in task manager and the keyboard was functioning fine just last night, I hadn’t thouched it since then. Any suggestions? In the meantime I think I will tear it down and make sure there is not anything stuck on the contact pads under the rubber dome. 

21 hours ago, LogicWeasel said:

The B450 I linked allows OC and as stated has excellent VRM.  Unless you feel you need PCIe 4.0 for something, than X570 doesn't really offer much since you said you're on a tight budget.

I know I marked this solved but while looking for mobo’s I remembered that the b450 needs a bios update to be compatible with the 3000 series. Is this something I should be concerned with?

4 minutes ago, LogicWeasel said:

2700x better for some parallel non-gaming stuff but you mentioned games.  3600x not worth the extra cost, you can just lightly-OC the 3600 and it's the same thing.

Ok sounds great, thanks. What about chipsets. I’m not looking for anything super fancy but oc would be nice 

1 hour ago, LogicWeasel said:

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor  ($185.99 @ Amazon) 
Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard  ($114.99 @ B&H) 
Total: $300.98
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-12-01 18:17 EST-0500


Yes it would be cheaper for R5 2600 but the 3600 is the clear winner in gaming and it would be worth pairing since your GPU is not a mid-range, it's more upper-range in performance.  This would be a very worthwhile upgrade in games like Tarkov and Kerbal, and leave you potentially open to even larger down-the-road updates as the motherboard VRM and support for newer AMD chips is tops.

Ok that’s an idea. What about the r7 2700x vs the r5 3600x?

I’ve had my 6600k for a few years now and it’s starting to show it’s age when playing a few different games. Namely Escape from Tarkov is having a hard time pushing 75fps, sometimes even 60 on a few maps. This is kind of a problem in a game which is based on tactics awareness. Even Kerbal space program has trouble in busy scenes where there is a lot of parts and physics (any space station larger than a few segments). Sometimes FPS drops below 30 in these situations. I get a fairly large pay check soon which should cover a comfortable upgrade. I’m looking for anything which will preform well enough to justify the upgrade to it. I’m looking at something which is no more than 250, preferably lower as I need a new mobo and storage as well. Some of the last gen AMD chips look compelling but would it be worth the extra 100 for the 3000 series 7’s over the 2000 series? For reference I have a strix 1070 which slightly out preforms my cpu in most circumstances and 2x8 ram kit which can hit 3200 but I have at 2333 because of instability at higher speeds. Thanks. 

On 5/17/2019 at 11:31 AM, BrinkGG said:

Creatily Ender 3 Pro. Heated, flexable bed (makes getting parts off a LOT easier), support for remote control programs like Octoprint, and support for more durable materials like PETG and ABS plastics, though I recommend starting with PLA. 

If you do buy it, get the ComGrow version (link below). Creatily themselves is a company based out of Shanghai and English support is incredibly difficult to get. Comgrow will act as a middle ground and replace broken parts, honor warranty and be much more willing to help.

I personally bought this printer a while back and have been loving it. How much do you know about 3D printing? I'd be happy to share my findings if wanted.  

 

https://www.amazon.ca/Comgrow-Creality-Printer-Upgrade-Certified/dp/B07H21QPTT/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=Ender+3+pro&qid=1558114064&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

Sorry for the super late response but I am finally looking at buying the printer. I'm just wondering what the difference is between the pro and non-pro versions. Is it worth the extra bit for the pro version?