ermu

Actually I already checked that. CPU Temperatures seem to be stable when I'm able to use it for hours (~30-35C idle and ~50-60C when playing). Heatsinks are warm to touch as well.

Good day guys. I hope someone can help me. I have built a PC and it seems to work fine after using it for the first time but the next day I can't turn it on using the case switch. I played with the PSU switches and unplugged then plugged it from the main power line. It turned on but it turned off after a few minutes. Sometimes I'm able to use it for hours but after shutting it down, the same problem occurs the next time I use it. Basically, I just rely on playing with the switches and luck to see if I can use it for hours. I made a thread about this issue months ago but haven't really resolved it because I was working away from my hometown for these past months. I just got home last weekend so I got the chance to try new things to troubleshoot this. Here are the additional things that I already did to troubleshoot this. I unplugged the case POWER and RESET switches from the front panel and checked the continuity using a multimeter and they both work fine (pressing it creates a momentary contact). Next, I tried the screwdriver trick (shorting the power pins with a screwdriver) to start the motherboard but it won't boot. Then finally I checked the continuity of the power pins and found out that they are connected, I don't really know if it should really be that way but after I checked the pin outs of the motherboard it seems that one of the two power/reset pins is connected to ground so does that mean that the other pin is grounded? Is my motherboard already dead? Thanks in advance for your response.

I have just built my own PC a week ago and I used a secondhand Seasonic X 650W which I got from a friend. It works fine for the first day and used it for about half a day but something weird happens after that. When I shut down my PC for the first time I didn't unplug it from the extension with built-in surge protector and I also don't turn off the PSU. The next day, switching the case power button won't start up the system but after random workarounds, flicking the PSU off then on again seems to solve the problem and I would go on and use it for hours. I also tried shutting down the PC and using it again after about an hour and it seems to work fine then. But when I use it the next day, the same thing happens. Now I'm suspecting that turning it off for long hours may be causing the problem. I lived with it for about two days and it's really annoying to have to do the workaround everyday. But today, I used the same workaround and got the PC starting but it shuts down automatically after about five minutes. I tried unplugging the cord and discharging the capacitors by holding the case power button and when I try to turn it on again, it always shuts down automatically. I don't think it's the motherboard since I can boot and use it fine before it shuts down automatically. I suspect that this is because of a faulty PSU but my friend said that he never encountered this problem before. Can you help me troubleshoot this? I would really appreciate any feedback because it's really frustrating.

I'm going to use the Deepcool Dukase V2 case white version (http://deepcool.com/product/case/2016-03/9_4848.shtml) which unfortunately only comes with only 1 120mm ehxaust fan. Because of that, I bought a Dual pack Corsair AF120 White LED Quiet Edition Fans. Now I'm confused on what my setup should be for optimized cooling performance. I'm also not sure whether I'll go positive or negative pressure. I'm thinking of using only the Corsair fans and discard the pre-installed fan. 1 on the front intake and 1 on the rear exhaust. Is this a good idea or not? What would you guys recommend in this scenario?

Thanks for the responses guys but I decided to go with i5 Skylake since benchmarks show very marginal performance to Kaby Lake, especially with the iGPU (which I really expected to be dramatically improved, what a shame) because I wont be using a dedicated graphics card till around December this year. I'd probably upgrade when the 10nm architecture drops.

I have this officemate that built a rig with a generic PSU bundled with the case. In just about 3 months, his system got fried because the power supply suddenly sparked. Maybe, you'll lessen the risk of that happening if you don't use your computer almost 24/7 but I'll be more confident with a branded PSU. And the big bonus of a quality PSU is that you can upgrade every other component in your rig and still re-use the PSU.

I'd suggest getting a branded 500W. Here's a reference: (Get at least a Tier 3 PSU) https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/631048-psu-tier-list-updated/ Who knows what might happen with a generic PSU? And with SkyLake, 500W is more than enough imo.

For my first PC build, I waited for Kaby Lake i5 processor (I haven't bought it, yet). The problem is, I already bought a MSI B150 motherboard. I already checked and found out that there's a BIOS update for Kaby Lake but I don't know how to run the updated BIOS. Should I run the motherboard with a Skylake processor first, then update the BIOS? Or is there another way that I'm not aware of? Please forgive me for this newbie question.

Why is this not a thing now? I noticed that modern cases do not have this. In my opinion, it's a really great cooling solution since air will be taken in directly at the GPU and motherboard. Care to enlighten me about this? I'm just new to PC building and just curious why modern case designers "abandoned" this feature.

Thanks guys! I also checked HardOCP's review on this unit and combined with your opinions, I'll gladly take the deal haha

I am planning to buy a rig with i5-6500 and no video cards for the moment, but I will get at least a 1050Ti when I have the budget. Also, I don't plan on overclocking and will only use the system for light gaming and rendering. Now, my friend has a great deal for a secondhand Seasonic G-series 750W 80+ gold at around $50 only. Should I get this or will this PSU be an overkill?

DEFINITELY! PSUs are the heart of every PC.Most people, especially beginners tend to overlook their PSU choice and go with random generic or case-bundled PSUs. You should check out this forum and other expert websites to find out more about the importance of a quality PSU. For starters, here's what 80+ means: And regarding your PSU choice, it is an excellent one and here's an expert review to back it up. http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=424

So, I have found the case that I have been looking for (has most of the above features at least). I believe it is only available here in the Philippines and other SEA countries so I haven't stumbled on it on Newegg when I was scouting for cases. The price is also budget-friendly, around $55-ish. I dunno about the build quality though but I'll take it anyway. Here it is! (in case that some of you might be interested too) http://www.tecwareph.com/titan http://www.tecwareph.com/alpha Also, I'm starting to like black and white designs more than the black and red. So, you can stop being salty now, tarfeef101 hahaha.

Hey forgive me man, it's my first build and I find black and red appealing haha. I still wanna use 5.25 bays for burning and stuff. Now I'm wondering if there's any case with removable 5.25 bays. For the 3.5 and 2.5 drive bays, I like them at the same level as the PSU or side mounted like the Phanteks Enthoo Evolv did but I think I can compromise regarding that.

Hello, I'm looking for Mid Tower ATX or mATX case that's under $75 and has the following features: 4 USB ports (2x 3.0, 2x 2.0) Good looking side-panel and good cable management at least 2 5.25 drive bays, hidden 3.5 and 2.5 bays 2 front fans and 2 top fans and optional bottom or side fan can support watercooling (but this is the least priority) comes in black and red color I'm a little picky but I would appreciate it if you guys have any suggestion for a case that has majority (or all, I would love it!) of these features. Thanks