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JKR

Member
  • Content Count

    16
  • Joined

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About JKR

  • Title
    Newbie

System

  • CPU
    Intel i5 8600K
  • Motherboard
    ASUS Z370-F Rog Strix Gaming
  • RAM
    32 GB Corsair LPX Vengeance DDR4-3000MHz (4x8)
  • GPU
    EVGA NVIDIA 1080 SC
  • Case
    Corsair 450D
  • Storage
    Samsung 970 Pro 500 GB (Boot); WD Blue 3D NAND 500 GB SSD; WD Blue 1TB 7200 rpm HDD
  • PSU
    EVGA G3 650 80+Gold
  • Display(s)
    Dell 24” (“poc”)
  • Cooling
    Corsair H105
  • Keyboard
    Corsair RGB Strafe Silent
  • Mouse
    Razer Trinity Naga; Razer Orbweaver Chroma
  • Sound
    Plantonics Gamecon 780
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 64
  • PCPartPicker URL
  1. JKR

    Help needed!

    Agreed. Also depends on what you can already have-if it’s compatible with a Ryzen build. I’m running an i5 8600K, which cost about $250-300 or so last year and a Z370 mobo which was about $170. But if I was building now, I’d go Ryzen vs Intel!! It’s cheaper, has more cores/threads, hyperthreading, depending on cpu may come already with a cooler... Also would get the B450 board and don’t know what kind of ram you have, you might actually need to buy that as well (if what you have isn’t DDR4). Should be able to get a really decent upgrade with just replacing those items now and continuing to use the 1050 for a bit. With any money left over I’d get an SSD for system drive and repurpose your other drives.
  2. From ASUS z370-f manual. See pix See CPU Installation tool. Note in instructions about the tool install Figure 3 is the Install Tool Frame.
  3. @Simon771 Was wondering if you delidded and replaced Intel tim??
  4. @dizmo Room temps are approx 24*C and ambient temp inside generally 1-1.5* higher in case
  5. @Mamonos So the high cpu temps are ok for that chip then?? I dont need delid and replace ihs TIM ??Also meant @AskTJ Those are mostly idle temps with fan curves running at approx 70% at 40*C
  6. @Jurrunio The plastic installer is not the conventional plastic socket cover that originally comes with the board and then pops off when the lid is secured. It’s actually a frame like device to click the cpu into place; then the entire thing fits into the socket. Never saw one before but had heard of them. Keep the AIO pulling air from the top outside air into the case?? I’ve got them running at 90% at 50*C I actually have run 3D Mark, Fuzzy Donut, Cinebench and hightemps get to roughly 67*C ish at highest. Just at lower loads it seem to run highish
  7. I just built my first rig. I have an Intel i5 8600K in an ASUS Z370-F Gaming mobo. The mobo came with a cpu “installer” to help place the cpu correctly into the slot without damage. However it doesn’t say to remove it and seems to imply to keep it in place situated around the cpu. Then with the entire unit in place, then you lock down the socket arm into place leaving the plastic housing still there surrounding the cpu. Seems that plastic would help retain heat! Plus, after purchasing chip and using it for a month I found out that the Intel chips ARE running hot. I stayed away from the Ryzen chips for this reason. Ugh! My basic info is: 1) My cpu temps seem pretty high for a new chip; 40c or so without load. 2) I am using a Corsair h105 240 AIO to cool it with MX4 Carbon as TIM. 3) Already replaced stock Corsair fans on the rad with Noctua Industrial 120 PWMs (3000rpm and decent static pressure). I have an additional Noctua 120mm Industrial fan as exhaust through back of case. 4) Placed AIO on top of case pulling air into case. 2 stock Corsair 140mm on front pulling air into case. EVGA GTX 1080 SC ACX 3.0 with 2 fans on bottom of GPU but pushing hot air back into case. Placed PSU on bottom upside down, pulling air from inside case towards outside back just to get air moving. There was a dead space under my GPU. Hot air just stayed right there. Case is a Corsair 450D with Aeroslots on back so no solid pci slot covers. Entire back of case is pretty open/ mesh-like. Using Demciflex filters on all intakes. Removed all cages from inside case except the one housing my hdd on the top which is bolted on. So inside case has a lot of room. Exhaust fan has no filter. Questions: 1) Should I take out the plastic installer from the cpu socket and if so will the cpu fit the ASUS Z370-F 1151 properly? Will it fit snug enough to get proper connections? 2) Should I keep the plastic unit in place and just repaste with a different TIM and reseat the heat sink? 3) Should I be exhausting the air through the AIO from the inside to the outside? (Seems counterintuitive to me though since it would be pushing hot air from the case through the radiator which is supposed to be cooling the chip) 4) Delid the chip and replace Intel TIM with Conductonaut? 5) Do AIO speeds matter? What should the pump percentage be and what about the actual AIO fan speeds? What is the ideal speed setup for maximum rad cooling with an h205? 6) Are my fans in the wrong places/orientations?? Could they be competing with each other’s airflow? Causing conflicting air patterns?? So many questions! Sorry! But it’s my first build and although everything does work. Temps are a real problem! Help!!
  8. Kk Thanks! Was thinking about a raid of 2 drives for redundancy. “Raid 1” I believe
  9. Thanks for all the advice!! But which ssd would pair better with a traditional 7200rpm hdd, the m.2 nvme or a 2.5” sata. I realize that the m.2 nvme will be much faster, but will it have a longer “life” than the 2.5”ssd? ( I want an hdd for longer term storage with the option for possible raid config)
  10. Lol the 40 mm fan was to mount above the M.2 SSD, because I read they got really hot. Seriously though, what is the benefit of an M.2 drive vs that of a standard 2.5” SSD?? Is it stability and greater longevity of the 2.5” or just the speed of the M.2? Which will have a longer “life”? Also, if I put Windows on the SSD and reformat the old 1Tb hdd I already have for file storage, don’t I have to get a new Windows license since the SSD and motherboard will have different serial numbers so that it’ll look like a different computer? I guess I’m asking how the licensing works in this situation.
  11. Ok. I’m confused! Wouldn’t the 2400G plus a GTX1070 system run faster than a 1600X plus GTX960 system? I apologize! I am really new at this and this will be my first build.
  12. Please let me know if this build will work as something I can grow into as I get more money to finally upgrade this into a nice gaming rig. Please also let me know your opinion of the BIOS system and customer service ASUS has vs MSI: https://pcpartpicker.com/user/macdiva524/saved/YwCQVn Already have the case (Corsair 490D) and power supply (EVGA Gold 650 plus-fully modular) and will be scavenging my current nvidia geforce GTX 960 card, dvd r/w optical drive and hdd from my current computer until I am able to upgrade. This is a base system that I am planning on upgrading over the next few months to get the ultimate rig I want. Please let me clarify: As I cannot afford a decent/dedicated GPU (I want a Nvidia 1070) I am looking at the 2400G since it has onboard graphics and wish to supplement it with my current GTX960 until prices hopefully drop on the 1070. I also want a board thats not going to be obsolete as soon as I purchase it. I also notice hat LTT tends to use ASUS boards in their videos. Are these truly good solid boards and are there viable alternatives out there? My current rig is a prebuilt ASUS G11CD and I'm familiar with it's stability (but its a tight fit with very little airflow and runs hot, even with 3 extra case fans installed) I am also not looking to overclock or use water-cooling, but want a fast rig with lots of long-term future upgradability. I know the end build has a lot of fans, but will only add them if heat does become an issue. I understand both the 2400G and the m.2 960 run very hot without watercooling. I am looking at the Ryzen 2400G in hopes that it will be more "future-proof" than the currently available Intel chips (since Intel is moving into a 10nm architecture) soon. This is what I am aiming for in the end: https://pcpartpicker.com/user/macdiva524/saved/Mh7bjX
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