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seklas

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About seklas

  • Birthday Oct 01, 1996

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Manchester

System

  • CPU
    AMD Ryzen 7 2700X
  • Motherboard
    AMD Strix X470-I
  • RAM
    32 GB Corsair 3200Mhz
  • GPU
    NVIDIA GTX 1080 FTW
  • Case
    Ghost S1
  • Storage
    Samsung 970 EVO 512GB + 2xSamsung 850 EVO 1TB
  • PSU
    Corsair SF600 Platinum
  • Display(s)
    Acer X34
  • Cooling
    Fractal Design S24
  • Keyboard
    Logitech G810
  • Mouse
    Logitech G502
  • Sound
    2x KRK Rokit 5 G4 + KRK 10S2
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro x64
  • Laptop
    Surface Book 2 13"

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  1. Hello everybody, I'm not sure how niche this topic would be and if that's even the correct place for it, however: When I play VR in my house, I always have to bring my gaming computer to the living room, because otherwise I just don't have enough space anywhere else in my house for it. Typically, it wasn't a problem. Even though I don't watch TV and therefore don't have one (as I'm using my gaming monitor for everything) I used to remote connect my desktop to my laptop (using Remote Desktop Connection program on Windows 10), and control it through there (for login in, connecting Steam and starting VR) it worked well. I wasn't able to display visuals on both at the same time, but typically once I've turned on VR on Steam, I would be able to close the connection and just use my HTC Vive to display games as it usually does. It did the job and I wasn't forced to move the monitor with me everywhere just to run a few things. However, recently I've upgraded to Windows 10 May 2020 (2004) on my desktop PC. And ever since, I wasn't actually able to use the same method to run VR anymore. The problem is, once I disconnect my remote display connection, the computer locks itself, so even though Steam and VR and games still run in the background, but because the computer is locked, I don't see anything on my VR headset but green light. When I try to connect to my laptop again, it shows the login screen and then goes straight to where I've left it. I've tried to go to the power settings and force computer not to lock, however none of it made any difference, because the computer just by default goes to "lock" mode once the display is off/disconnected. Would anybody know if there is another way besides settings/control panel to force computer stay unlocked even when the display is disconnected? I hope it makes sense what I'm trying to do here and would appreciate any help. Thank You!
  2. That is true, but with small builds which are kept on a desk etc. you want the quietest cooler you can get when it's idling or doing something little. Obviously when you game or do some intense work, all fans will ramp up so the GPU will end up being louder than the CPU cooler, however when it's doing little work, the GPU typically doesn't spin its fans at all, so the CPU fan being louder will be audible, which could be minimised by going with a better quieter fan/radiator setup. With water coolers the loudest part usually tends to be the pump when the system is quiet, fans aren't very noticeable at all at slow speeds. But a single fan AIO will have to work harder than a double AIO, so it would produce more noise.
  3. Hello, I've recently built myself a NAS system, it's quite basic, pretty much a budget gaming PC without a GPU. I'm using: Mobo: Asus PRIME H310I-PLUS CPU: Intel i3 8100 RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB PSU: SF450 OS Drive: WD Green 128GB SSD M.2 HDD: x3 Seagate IronWolf 4TB I've heard a lot of good things about FreeNAS, and I like the fact it supports software RAID, as I'm intending to use the server for storing important video files, therefore something like RAID 5 without specific expensive hardware was important to me. So I've built everything and set it all up. I've made my server accessible through Windows and it all works, however, my download and upload speeds are limited to around 15 MB/s. I don't know much about servers at all and have no experience using Linux systems, I know FreeNAS doesn't support wireless connection (therefore it's wired to my router, and the router is wirelessly connected to my PC), however, I was wondering why it's so slow? My internet connection is faster than this over WiFi, especially download as typically I can get around 30MB/s easily. The router is 802.11ac, therefore it's clearly not the best one and I can understand there could be a bottleneck, but I don't understand why it would be THAT slow. Is this a FreeNAS thing or have I done something wrong here? Thank You
  4. That whole presentation was sooo rigged. All that 10x performance was only for Ray-Tracing. Obviously, there's a big difference between 10-series with no dedicated Ray-Tracing module and 20-series with one. However, it's another Gameworks feature, which is going to be used by some AAA developers, 4 times a year. The rest is going to GameWorks-less projects, that are going to utilise no such features, which is pretty much 99.9% Steam library. The actual performance is only going to be 20-40% better (most likely), which is still good, I mean there are people out there who are using 500-series cards etc. and are looking to upgrade, so that GTX 2070 is actually looking very nice, those with Pascal cards shouldn't really need to upgrade yet, unless money is burning your pockets. Also there are people saying how Ray Tracing is different to any other Nvidia GameWorks gimmick, as Ray Tracing is pretty much there during the production of every game, however another one of those things that still needs tweaking to make use of, which means teams have to dedicate people and time a.k.a. company resources to make sure it works and utilises those Ray-Tracing cores. So, how many creators are actually going to bother to spend all time and money on something that only few % will use, especially during the first few years of existence? Barely a few, most likely only those who are sponsored by Nvidia.
  5. I cleared CMOS on the laptop by unplugging the battery, then I put everything back in, plugged in USB memory stick with BIOS files in there, in about 10 mins and three restarts, I got BIOS up and running. I tried turning off and on again, everything waa fine. I unplugged the USB stick, everything was still fine. So I turned on the system while I put all the screws in, I try to turn on, no post again. After that I've spent another 4-5 hours trying to get BIOS running, cleared CMOS once again, no luck second time. Any ideas guys? I feel devastated
  6. No, I don't think you understood what I was saying (probably my fault anyways) I took out the SSD from the laptop, connected it to another laptop through the cable and then when it was all put back together, Windows clearly worked, but didn't have an access to files, because when you connect your main drive through Sata cable to another computer you need to let windows to get you an access to files without any password required (even though it's suppossed to be protected). So windows files have probably been changed and so when I put everything back in, it barely worked. I tried to unplug the laptop from any power source and hold the power button for a minute, no difference. I checked the cables, everything seems to be in place. Tried RAM sticks separately, still the same. It seems that the keyboard is not functioning either because caps lock nor numberpad key don't lit up an LED at the bottom. Mouse is not responsive either, as there's a lock key just above it, doesn't lit up when clicked. Works Only the DVD disc reader and also the fan speed control button at the top.
  7. Hello, I'm not too sure this is the right place, however today I was cleaning up my old laptop (MSI GE70 0ND) changed the termal compound on CPU and GPU. In the mean time I took out the SSD out of it, connected to my sister's laptop to transfer the files she urgently needed, using SATA to USB 3.0 cable. When I finished cleaning up, I put everything back in, turned it on, booted up to windows, but got a message that Spotify wasn't opened because windows don't have an access to the catalogue. I though it's an error caused by connecting the drive through an external connection, but I restarted the system. While restarting just before booting up I got a BSOD straight away. After that my laptop went to Windows repair mode, then booted up but this time without any wallpaper (black colour instead) and the same Spotify message. I tried to open Start menu, but it didn't work, Windows was stuck at the desktop and wouldn't open anything else, so I did a hard restart. After that the computer screen doesn't come back on. Literary I can hear a fan spinning, but USB connections, HDMI connection don't work, MSI logo doesn't show up either. Does anyone know what happened and how would it be possible to access BIOS if at all? Thanks a lot for any help.
  8. The way I look at it is the mouse pad is actually not as expensive as it looks at first. The price tag is high for sure, but you're also getting two mouse mats that alone cost about £60 (probably $60) on Amazon, so that leaves the charging base costing around £/$40 - definitely not a bad price. G903 is expensive though, costs just as much as the old G900 back to its original launch. All things considered I don't think that the combo will drop the price by a lot. The mouse will get cheaper a little bit, but the mouse pad itself with no competition will probably keep it as it is for a while.
  9. Hello everyone, Just like the title implies, I'm looking for headphones for my mom to use. She mainly uses them for watching video content on her laptop, about 2-3 hours every day. So far she used Steelseries V2 Siberia and Beyerdynamic DT770 Pro. She liked the sound of both, but mentioned that after a long period of time, her left ear starts hurting with both (but DT770 was still better). I was wondering if you know of any good sounding, reasonably priced (in range of ~£100 and £150) and very comfortable, also well built headphones? If I had prioritise the needs: 1 - comfort, 2 - price, 3 - sound. Any advice would be a great help! Thanks a lot in advance
  10. As long as they'll replace the parts, I don't really mind it happening once. For some reason I felt that the system is going to break sooner or later (probably because It's my first PC) so I was ready for it happening. But I never would have guessed that the motherboard is going to be the reason because I have always suspected the GPU, nothing else. P.S. When I'll send my CPU/mobo to RMA, should I put them into a anti-static bags or any particular packaging so they wouldn't get damaged until delivered?
  11. Exactly. Everyone's expecting AMD return to the game with a bang. Hopefully this will be successful enough, so Intel would lower their prices too, because as it stands, Intel has the majority of the market share, just like nVidia does in the GPU market.
  12. Currently, Intel is better than AMD so now everyone is waiting for the new CPU series from AMD to come out in a few months (unless it'll be delayed again).
  13. But that depends if the PC is only for gaming, if not then a better CPU would do him justice too.
  14. Hey. Usually in the name of the Motherboard you'll see the description of what socket the CPU must have to be compatible - LGA1151 (6700k and others), X99 (Extreme series) etc. Otherwise, look for the socket name in the specifications, because AMDs are different, older Intel are different too.
  15. Thanks guys, that's probably what I wanted to hear, because it'd get really expensive If I needed to buy those two parts again, so soon after building a PC. I also have a presentation coming up in four days and have left it unfinished in the PC, just before the breakdown, so just bought a SATA to USB cable, which should do the work, transferring the file. I'm not in a big rush as I still have a laptop with me, so I'll try RMA both parts, hopefully, it'll be replaced by January.
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