cyanit

So, just to sum it up, I would recommend a clean install too: - select "UEFI [YOUR USB STICK NAME]" while booting from usb - remember the Windows 10 type (Home/Pro) and choose that one during install - click on "i don´t have a license key" and proceed, it will activate itself automatically - install drivers (if windows didnt automatically) - install the SSD´s software & activate "Momentum Cache" (or whatever its called on your SSD)! - connect the old HDD via USB (adapter is super cheap) and copy the data Congrats, you´re done

just did that within the last few days, works flawless, the key is on the Mainboard. Just install the same version and you´re good to go. BTW: A clean UEFI install is always a good idea if you´re moving and have the time to set it up again.

Made a live Solus USB and deleted the boot partition of the "old" HDD. Isn´t perfect, but it works, because ill format and repartition the drive anyway. And of curse I installed windows via UEFI

Today I came home from school and ran through everything again, just got the error, old windows or windows installer. Then I had an idea: I unplugged the power cable of my PC, I unplugged everything from the mainboard that could be booted from and turned on my pc. UEFI came up, no boot order (hence the missing devices). I also turned on "Hot-Plug" on SATA port 2 and exited WITH saving. Then I plugged in the SSD into SATA-port 1 (because I red somewhere else that port 1 & 2 are directly connected to the CPU and that this can make a difference) and turned on the PC. And it worked. Plugged in my HDD, but its not recognized on my "new" windows. Now im gonna make a bootable USB with Linux and solve it from there. Thanks for the suggestions, but I forgot to do what would be the first thing: eliminate all variables and reset everything on a low level. Booting from the SSD first didn´t work, so why not remove the HDD physically....

in my first run I forgot to plug the HDD back in, so no, that dosnt work either

Thanks for the advice, already did it twice. And yes I did turn it off and on again. This is so fn hilarious, I did all the common things bit it still doesn't work. The most strange thing is that the Installation actually worked. I've set up windows, there has to be a way roo boot to the SSD without having to reinstall everything.

yes, I did that too. But then I get the "No boot device [...]" error again, so in the end its the same result. Pretty strange....

Hello LTT community, today my new SSD arrived. My plan was to install W10 on it, claiming the old Windows and transfer the important stuff, then delete all partions of the HDD and make one NTFS partition for data. So I plugged it in correcly, booted from my prepared USB stick, unplugged the onther drives and installed windows 10 and my needed programms on it. So far so great. Plugging in the old HDD for transferring my Data and rebooted (no hot plug enabled). But when I rebooted, it booted ALWAYS to the old W10 on my HDD. So, logically I just unplugged it again and restarted the PC to see if that was the problem. But now I get an error: “No boot drive detected. Please plug in a boot drive and press any key.“ But since the SSD is shown in the Windows Installer, I know its plugged in and working! Even the Installation worked flawlessly! The SSD is even shown in the Bootmenu, but when I try booting from it, it's not working. So what the heck is going on?!? I did everything (to my knowledge) right: - unplugged the old HDD so its boot manager won't interfear with the new SSD - booted the USB-Key in UEFI mode - Set the bootorder correctly - Windows 10 even worked Config: - ASRock Z97 Pro 4 Mainboard - Crucial MX500 SSD (New, Windows 10 Pro) - 2TB Seagate HDD (old, Windows 10 Pro) The MX500 is on Sata lll-port 3, (in UEFI registered as SATA 3 SSD) but I took an old Sata cable, don't know if it's Sata3. The HDD is on Sata lll-port 2, (in UEFI registered as SATA 3 HDD) and is working correctly. (DvD is on port 1) Boot order: 1. DvD 2. MX500 3. All below are deactivated. But after a restart with my HDD attached it always changes to: 1. Windows Boot Manager 2. DvD 3. HDD 4. All below are deactivated

okay, after your comments and Bitwit´s video I decided to go for a 500GB MX500. Almost double the capacity for half the price compared to a M.2 one. thanks a lot for responding, have a nice day

Hello LTT community! since a year I'm thinking about getting an SSD. I'm not planning to upgrade my platform during 2018, so I´ll stick to my ASRock Z97 Pro4, which (to my knowledge) does not fully support Nvme, but PCIe storage via M.2. Currently, I've got a 2TB Seagate SSHD which was okay, but I'm running out of storage and the programs I use frequently take a really long to start, so maybe its time for a fresh install and boot drive. What I use frequently - Image editing software (Affinity Photo & Designer) + image archive (raw, png, ) - Video recording and editing (OBS for recording) - Digital audio workstation (Bitwig Studio 2) + sample & VST library - IDE (Visual Studio 2017) - Office Gaming is a thing for me too, I'm playing mostly open world/RPG stuff, where an SSD makes sense too. What I think I need - fast reading speed for audio production (loading sample libraries & big project files) and image editing (RAW loading, big project files) - durable SSD because I'm moving a lot of data frequently - decent write speed in other words: an all-around solution. What I was thinking about I've got an HDD for dumping all my photos, videos and music, so I could get a 250GB (or 500GB?) SSD for my system and frequently used programs. space calculation But which one? Type - TLC - MLC - Samsung V-NAND - 3D-Nand I know what TLC and MLC are, but these new names for flash-memory architectures are growing faster than my knowledge... Is it just the same thing named differently for better marketing? SATA III - Crucial MX300 (2,5") - Samsung MZ-76E250B/EU 860 EVO (2,5") - WD Blue (2,5") - WD Blue SATA (M.2) PCIe M.2 - WD Black PCIe - Samsung MZ-N6E250BW 860 EVO price is almost irrelevant because they all cost about the same amount of money in Germany. So what do you think is the best one of those? Or maybe you know another affordable (m.2) SSD? So thank you for reading and responding, Leo

yes! Im not the onely one! Whoohoo ;D

racing wheel about 200€ off (Amazon Germany) https://www.amazon.de/Logitech-Racing-Lenkrad-Driving-Force/dp/B00YUIM2J0/ref=lp_13940123031_1_3?srs=13940123031&ie=UTF8&qid=1499770087&sr=8-3

well, ive got a audio splitter to split my onboard sound into headphone output and speaker output, and the speaker output goes about 5meters via a cheap extension cable to my amp. And everything sounds fine. what I'm trying to say is that you probably won't notice the difference.

i think the YU3 have a built in amp, so a 3,5mm audio splitter should do the job just fine. via 3.5mm

i guess yes. I think what matters the most are the 4 cores...