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Jacek13

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Posts posted by Jacek13

  1. I figured it out! This is a very interesting behaviour for lower end HDR monitors and it might help others with troubleshooting.
    Local dimming is disabled in “HDR gaming - FreeSync” mode! It adjusts backlight backlight in zones, so it greatly improves contrast for HDR and is necessary for HDR 600 standart this monitor is certified for. So basicially with FreeSync enabled our monitor becomes HDR 400 instead of HDR 600. If it notified the system and GPU about that, it would just displayed a bit worse image. But it doesn’t, so it has to squish higher dynamic range to a smaller one, as without local dimming it can’t get parts of the monitor as bright and as dark. This is why there are artifacts, washed out colours and loss of dark details.

    So this is not a problem with my monitor, but a design decision, as it probably would be way harder for the monitor to both controll the backlight so precisely and adapt the refresh rate. So I get why HP did that.

    But anyways, this is not what I paid for! In the description this was VESA HDR 600 certified and FreeSync monitor. And I can get either that HDR range in “VESA HDR 600” mode, or FreeSync working and broken and lower pec HDR in “HDR Gaming - FreeSync” mode. I would be completely fine with that, if it was stated anywhere in the description.
    I am going to keep this monitor, because the colours and contrast are amazing, and it is way cheaper in Poland than any other HDR monitor, but I already contacted HP to fix the description, and the shop for partial refund. I will see what comes out of this.

  2. The problem exists even when "GSync" is disabled. My monitor itself has different modes, and with the only FreeSync one HDR is broken. Enabling or disabling FreeSync in GPUsttings doesn't change a thing. So problem persists even when GSync is disabled, monitor says FreeSync is disabled, but is in "HDR Gaming - FreeSync" mode.

    More pictures, this is how it looks in person, not just artifacts from my camera.DSC_0197.thumb.JPG.329916a9b228e3ce9c8a104812e17d3f.JPGDSC_0200.thumb.JPG.00072c8b0351e30eeb02c522690cd0a7.JPG

  3. [Now I at least know why it happens, see my newest post]

     

    My brand new HP Pavilion Gaming 32 HDR monitor has 2 options of HDR: "VESA HDR 600" (and "HDR Video" which looks exactly the same) and "HDR Gaming - FreeSync". First one looks beautiful, exactly as it should, but doesn't allow Freesync. The second one has really bizarre artifacts. The darks go pretty dark and then completely dark. Also there are a lot of color artifacts. And the image is different too, brighter overall.

    I tried messing with Nvidia Controller Panel color settings, but nothing helps. My only clue is that even though there is a 10 bit color option, I can't apply it. I click apply, but immediately reverts to 8 bit color. Shouldn't HDR be 10 bit? Maybe that's the problem.

    Oh, and I am using an Nvidia GPU. I don't know if that's the root cause oimageproxy.php?img=&key=17c10421afdc6db8f the problem, I know a person with an AMD GPU nearby, but this monitor is so big and heavy I will delay bringing it to him as much as possible.

    HDR Gaming - Freesync modeFreeSync_ON.thumb.JPG.23958f993741e0635f6cefce42a54a8c.JPGHDR 600 modeFreeSync_OFF.thumb.JPG.0aa874662908335ebec2182c49c1bc7e.JPG

  4. ...and after 5-15s turns back on again giving me a hearth attack.

    It's a Laing DDC-1T connected to a FSP Fortron Raider 750W via a cable which isn't connected to anything else but water pump. All hard drives are connected to an other lead.

    It turns itself off and turns back on usually after 10s, but a few times it took it like 30, so then I was really stressed.

    My whole PC (including pump) is brand new (has like 2 weeks).

    The only thing that could cause problems that I use an open water cooling, third revision of this (haven't yet updated that topic with photos). But the pump behaved like that since it was brand new and I use a filter on the intake .

    Does anybody have any idea? Could it be some powersaving features of the MB or PSU?

    Oh, and in my house we have very low voltage and it sometimes it drops. My computer was having bluescreens 'till I changed the PSU to an overkill. Could it be that it has problems supplying that much voltage over molex?

  5. I've updated my cooling. Changed base reservoir to to smaller and transparent (I had extreme luck, I've found it in shop and it fits edge-to-edge!), mounted tubing properly and added some other improvements.

    And I've added lightning, but I will only use it to show-off and turn it off for every day use, 'cos I don't want to be distracted. This was reason to make it quiet in the first place, so why now ruine it? I also wanted it to look as Polish flag and in person it looks that way.

    I'm now testing different chemicals for making water fresh, Carex soap seems to work suprisingly well.

    I've been using it for 1,5 month on my main PC and for now it is reliable and really usable.

    Please tell me if you have any advices or questions. I just want to know if anybody cares.

  6. @0ld_ChickenThanks for the link. His work just looks amazing, but it's totally different target. I bet mine is not that much hotter, it is nearly completly silent while he has 4 fans and droplets falling falling from 0,5m. And mine was made to be unhearable. Also his one extremly complicated. But that towel cooler is really clever.

    And on the other hand mine looks like sh!t. I need to work on this. But as it is hidden behind my desk and I don't have to show it off it is ok.

  7. Is it possible to make a nearly silent gaming PC cheaply?

    I wanted cool my PC with evaporation, then I saw Bong Cooling but I found it is too loud and unreliable. So could I make it better?

    Spoiler

     

    First I want to admit that I live in Poland (central Europe) and to get parts for DIY is really hard and expensive. Just imagine you can't use Amazon, because shipment is really expensive.

    And sorry for any mistakes i made, English is not my main language.

     

    I figured out the water can't fall from more than 5cm (2') and water area must be as big as possible. First I wanted to make a waterfall but I would need a high performance, loud and expensive water pump and wide tubings. Then i figured out the water must be standing. And my solution:

    And it costed 100zł=25$! Pump, tubing, water blocks and metal clips It can cool most powerfull non-sli PC! 

    Spoiler

     

    I'm using 13 yrs old CPC water blocks. Everybody said they were rubbish even then (very tiny tube diameter - 6mm). But as I don't use radiator I don't need high throughtput. For mounting it came with i think socket 7 mounting, i bended it and used dremelland it now fits AM3+.  For GPU I used 2 NB mountings and some tape.

    Tubes are from building store and boxes from Ferrero Roche. Sweet piece of hardware

     

    Spoiler

     

    As I'm cooling AMD FX-4130 and GTX 465 after OC i need to dissipate more than 300W. So how big does it need to be?

    m/(S∗t)  = (25+v) S (xs-xp) - mass of water evaporated i hour from m^2

    t - time

    v - wind speed (don't need that, 'cos I don't use fan)

    S - area of water (in square meters)

    xs - humidity ratio of saturated air at the same temperature as the water surface (In calculator insert water temp. and 100% humidity)

    xp - humidity ratio of air (insert temp. of surrrounding air and its humidity)

    P=(h ∗ m)/3600 + 1,(6)∗S∗∆T - amount of power that can be dissipated - from evaporation + from conduction (my calculations)

    h - evaporation heat of water (2257 kJ/kg)

    ∆T - temperature difference

    I my case with 21C 50% ambient to dissipate 300W water temperature would need to be 40-41C and it actually is 40C. 0,323kg of water is dissipating per hour.

     

    I've been using it for a week and it works. I can't even hear it. I'm so happy, I think I'm first who did something like this!

    Sources: some of my calculations are based on Engineeringtoolbox.com and my sister made me that painting

    IMG_1454.jpgBez tytułu.jpg

    Wykres.jpg

    Older ver.:

    Spoiler

    P1030328.JPG

     

    Edit: And if somebody wonders how CPU can be cooler than water temperature. I've measured temp. in the highest box (right after end of the loop), and the pump is on the bottom so it sucks water of lower temp. Also CPU is first in the loop so it gets colder water, GPU water already heated by CPU

    Some mistakes I've made and you really shouldn't:

    Spoiler

    Be 110% sure you've attached your tubing that it can't move and then check again. I haven't and caused some rain downstairs.

    Also attach tubing that they don't slope near connection to the outside cooler. Some drops may stick to the tubing and then fall down in the lowest point, propably in your PC case (wrong example shown in old ver.

    From the beginning use some antibacterial chemicals (or few drops of Carex soap seems to work preety well for me, constantly sitting in my system, doesn't foam) for fountains or change water often. If not you might block up your water blocks and make your tubings look rotten.

    Make sure your pump is reliable, mine if it's sitting idle for a longer time fills with air and doesn't start even if connected to power. And as I can't hear it working even if working (wich is desired) I found it out when my PC overheated.

     

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