jcuhnoio

RAM is more or less all the same at this point. The majority of it comes from only a handful of factories. It's good. 

The boot thing is weird. Go into chrome://settings, open advanced settings and find 'System' and uncheck use hardware acceleration where available, then reboot chrome.
 
It's buggy asf

Steam has an other sale, this one is for SEGA, titled "Make War, Not Love". Now is the time to grab some of these game's you've been waiting on. Sale ends on Monday though. It's fairly short lived.
 
http://store.steampowered.com/sale/mwnl4/

Yep.

Let's put it this way - it isn't necessary but it certainly is a nice thing to have. Kinda like 60Hz vs 144Hz... you'll definitely notice the difference.
 
Of course, the price may be hard to justify.

Cry and wish you'd listened to me when I told you to buy an air cooler.
 
This is why I never recommend an AIO. Leaks are rare, but they CAN happen. If you are in this for the aesthetics, go custom... done right, they have far less chance of leaking due to the quality of components used, which no matter what anyone says FAR exceeds those used in mass produced AIOs. If you can't afford it, save up. You will then have something that looks FAR nicer and actually performs. AIOs aren't much better in the performance stakes than air coolers, which don't leak. Ever.

Take pictures before you start pulling stuff out though, depending upon the brand you may well get the manufacture of the AIO to replace any parts damaged by the AIO leaking as well. I know of at least one case where Corsair built someone an entirely new system because the AIO leaked.

just turn everything off, take the psu cable out and dry everything thoroughly.

If it does leak, make sure you immediately turn it off via the wall socket (if near it) or the power supply, or whichever way you can turn it off easiest and quickest. Don't bother saving work because it's probably not worth the entire computer dying. Get some paper towels, try to pat them on the areas where the water has leaked and try to get rid of as much as possible. Take out your GPU, CPU, AIO, RAM, PSU, Hard Drives etc maybe the motherboard too as a matter of fact and let them dry out for a long time, maybe 2 days to be safe, I'd probably do around 48 hours - 72 hours depending on how severe it was, also make sure to inspect the mobo, CPU, GPU etc for any black marks where an electric current may have passed through the liquid and zapped it. After waiting for them to dry out re-install them and pray that it works. But you have to understand that this is the risk people with AIOs take, there will always be leaks because nothing is 100% safe. But it's just luck, pray that you aren't that one in a thousand to have a leak.
 
My apologies if this is incorrect information, please don't absolutely roast me if I'm being an idiot,
Thanks
vK
 

I know this is not on your list, but I recommend the Deepcool Captain 240ex, as it is a solid aio and will complement your white case very well.

depends on the game and situation. in some games, no, even a SAndy Bridge i3 may be fine, but in most modern games AND ESPECIALLY IN MMO GAMES like WoW, GW2, ESO etc... it will bottleneck. Despite these games being horribly single threaded, they still have aspects which require good multi-threading especially on he networking side in some cases.
 
In all AAA games from 2015 and newer, an i3, even a Skylake or Kaby Lake i3, will BADLY bottleneck the 1060.

Samsung support already gave you the correct answer. 512 GB is the same as 477 GiB. SSDs and HDDs are sold in GB (or TB), but Windows and many programs use the slightly different binary units GiB (and TiB).

The 970 will run out of both the VRAM and GPU horsepower. Its got only 3,5GBs of full-speed memory, for such resolution you need a more powerful GPU solution such as the GTX 1070.

And they said that you couldn't fit a 3*140 rad on a 50 dollar case

Definitely 6600k. Higher clock speed and unlocked multiplier.

Just remember to grab a motherboard with z170 chipset if you're going with the 6600K. Otherwise you can't overclock it. The K at the end means it's an unlocked CPU which can be overclocked.

6600k if you're planning on overclocking, else 6500 if that GHz is fine for your usage.
Buying a K series chip and NOT overclocking it is like buying food and not finish eating it ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Don't upgrade yet dude, Zen is around the corner and even then... an i3 will be a better option than any FX chip out right now.

- No but you'll have to go through a process to reactivate your Windows if you change motherboard
- Don't get an FX-6350 when FX-8300s and 8320s are literally $10 more (in most countries)
- Definitely don't spend a fortune on a motherboard for these CPUs, since it can't house a high performance upgrade (8300 is as good as it gets, and while it's a fine gaming CPU, it's not better than a 2011 i7-2600).

If you want decent gaming experience on 1440p, you should get GTX 1070.
 
You can't make GTX 1060 as fast as GTX 980 Ti. Even GTX 1070 is strugling sometimes to be as good as GTX 980 ti.
I'm playing overwatch at epic settings with 75fps on 1440p.
 
If you want higher fps with GTX 1060, you would need to turn down some graphic settings.

I had a core i5 6600T overclocked to 4.59ghz. For gaming, it performs as you would expect any other i5 to perform. Benchmarks on the other hand,was an entirely different story. Not only do you lose thermal sensors, iGPU, AVX(2), you also lose 75% of your cache bandwidth, something nobody reported. This makes most benchmark scores look awful. Now, gamers won't care about this, but I myself enjoy benchmarking, and it was an issue for me.
 
However, there is another caveat. If you use non-K overclocking, you have to stick with older BIOS revisions, and potentially disable Windows Update with Group Policy Editor to avoid microcode updates. This might be a hassle if you do not have Windows 10 Pro, or need a BIOS update in the future for better product support. I personally don't recommend going that route, but on an extreme budget, I could understand it. I think the biggest issue is that you are trying to force yourself into 1440p gaming, without the budget to do so. I say, buy the best GPU you can afford with your budget, without making sacrifices elsewhere. Compromising on a platform, for a faster GPU, might help now, but it will cost you later. Maybe lower your standards on graphics settings, and achieve higher framerates that way? 

buy a 1070 or a 1080.

The 1060 just can't deliver what you want.

G502. i own it. best mouse ever. the accuracy in tracking is perfect. however, i wish they made a bigger version cause i have big hands.

Avoid SLI all together

I have a G502, its the best mouse I've ever owned.
It has 11 easily accessible, individually programmable buttons (Macro buttons too), a thumb rest, weight/balance adjustment.
The scroll wheel has two modes, clicky and free. The clicks(scroll wheel) are very sharp and deep, you can feel every click and know exactly how many lines you've scrolled.
The 'hardness' of the buttons are perfect, you don't need to press hard or won't click them by mistake.
Has three profiles, I use one for casual work, one for gaming and other for multitasking.
I just love the mouse and would definitely recommend it.