Neomuffins

Welp... need to buy new memory. Tested two Asus Impact mobos today and getting the same 01 error from both boards. 

You can try a couple things. Put a piece of acrylic in front of the leds and frost it. Or paint the acrylic white. You can also sand the leds down a little, or spray them with a frost.
 
This build is gorgeous! can't wait to see it done!

Update 19
Last night i finished installing 8.1  and right after I updated it to 10.
 
My workshop is always cold so i dried everything outside.

I added a small "handle".  Just leftovers from cabinets.

 
And lock.


And latch for quick release to hold PSU filter in place.

Bottom and wheels

Power switch cable

And fans

Ghetto style

To be honest I'm a little disappointed how this light looks .  I was expecting something idk ...more uniform.

Decided to change the tube for the outlet/drainage since it was kinked, but still functional but I feared it collapsing.  Also the tube was too long and had unneeded tension on it.  
 
I can see what custom loops drive people crazy   

alright so im finding it hard to assemble and post since most of the progress isnt the final look. heres the update. 
i messed up up the back panel trying to remove some glue from the protective film. gonna recut that real quick tommorrow using the old panel for marking it up. 
the zop and bottom panels are done though and im pretty happy with the results. 
space is in the case is a real bitch when assembling the loop. but i got most of the back half done/cut and fitted. so when the back panel goes back in i just need to hook it back up. 
ohh yeah and fitting the cables through the bottom shroud was moderately hard but turned out pretty great. but fir the top im just cutting a small rectangle in the back instead of individual holes. 

Almost completely done and ready to boot it up.  Assuming I get what I need in the mail today everything will get wired up.  Leak tested for 6-7 hours one day and about 11 hours the next with no issues. Here is where I am at.  
 
 

And here is where the project log for 'Trinity' ends! Hope you all like the end results, I really put a lot of work and dedication into my first fully modded build, and plan to log everything from now on. I already got the next project up my sleeves, and can't wait to start tracking the process on here. Would love to hear some feedback, especially since there are the most known guys when it comes to pc builds on here! Secondly I want to thank everybody that was involved in this project and had to endure me throughout the process. First huge shoutout definitely goes to EKWB in specific Atila Gobor who always got my back and even went thus far to sponsor me with their premium products on my first bigger project. He really is such a generous guy since I see him help out young fellow modders and builders with some nice hardware. When you start out you don't necessarily have the budget to play around with the most expensive parts yet you still love the progress of modding and in specific watercooling. And your number one priority should not even be getting sponsors for free products, there's always a win-win situation needed to achieve this. So atleast I hope I represented their hardware the best way possible. Next up is as mentioned already in my project log Julian Peter a.k.a propagandalf1 for the dope sleeving job! If you read this, I still owe you bro ? ! And of course the man of the hour and also mentor to me Martin Reinke from Customrigsde. He always gave me ideas to improve and was my mental support when things weren't working out as intended. Of course also hooking me up with some parts with his 3D printer ?. Last but not least my family for making this thing happen and for tolerating me throughout this time ?  Now let's roll the final pics!

I present to you Project 'Trinity' with the Fractal Design Define S!
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 

Now came the most important part of this build! The hardline setup!
I admit I was nervous as hell, didn't have a lot of tubing to spare or mess up since it was very pricey! Not only that, I didn't even know if this whole thing goes according to plan ?

And so it began, note that this was my first time bending PMMA instead of PETG, which was surprisingly good to work with. PMMA with a smaller OD should be a lot trickier I assume, but I personally like the looks of the tubing with the bigger OD.
 

 

 

 

 

 
Next update! Since I got the front tubing done, the next step was to connect the whole layout to the back of the case. For easier routing and handling I used black softtubing. Meanwhile I added another small detail for my EKWB Velocity CPU block and put on the second layering for my GPU.
Oh and I sleeved the DDC pump aswell just to get rid of the rainbow colors ?
 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 

Next up was sanding down all of the acrylic parts such as the GPU front cover plate, CPU waterblock and of course the reservoir to get an even satin/frosted look just like the tubing which was pre-sandblasted by Alphacool. At first I used normal wet sandpaper, but there where too many visible scratches even with fine grid when looking at certain angles. So it was funny that Alex actually posted a video on how to achieve that frosted look on tubing etc. just a few days later, as if he only knew I was struggling Thanks to the mod god I instantly bought some FESTOOL sanding pads and the results were really good!
 

 

 
In the meantime I was painting the PCIe brackets from white to black. Also I needed to think about a way to vertically mount the GPU to this case since it never had this feature unlike the new Define S2. I did some research and there were some helpful tips but some of them seemed a little too ghetto, so I decided to buy the PCI Modular I/O bracket from Mountain Mods and attach it on the inside of the case by doing some drilling and dremeling. After I needed to dremel a cutout for all of the GPU ports such as DP and HDMI I thought of adding a small detail by milling a thin frame to achieve a cleaner look. I could have used a rubber grommet with a bigger cutout but this did the trick just nicely, since I really think it looks like it could potentially be something the case had in its vanilla state ?
 

 

 

 

 
And again, this front cover for the GPU was one of the first tries and changes throughout the log, not by much but I wanted to block any unnecessary visible parts from the nickelplated block, meaning you should only see the fluid chamber or channel. But more to that later!
 

 

 

 

 
Sorry for some pictures, quality wise I snapping most of the progress with my old phone and recently got a new camera so it's getting better! Noted for the next project log ?
 

I should have a multimeter but I don't. I'll be going to the store today to pick one up.  Hopefully if everything goes as planned I should have this media controller functioning tonight or tomorrow. I bought multiples of the speaker I'm soldering in case I were to make a mistake.
 
I'm really happy that I can use the larger switches. It should be much more durable now.  
 
Thanks so much for the help guys!
 

@Neomuffins
1. Yeah, I thought about maybe drilling a hole into the bottom of the pc and letting the controller cables come out of the front case stand.
 
2. According to this russian site the pinout isn't the same as any connector my psu has (especially different voltages) so I think I have to rule that option out.
    The idea is very nice tho!
 
3. It's not really a problem, I could even get PCI-E cards with external and internal USB-ports from the scrapyard I work one. It's more of what I'd have to do
 
4. The problem is that I don't think it would fit, at least when I want to keep my DVD-Drive which I wouldn't want to miss.
    I thought about maybe asking a friend who is the junior boss of a carpentry to make a mounting of some sorts and on the other hand I could ask a local
    electrician to do the cable for me.
    Maybe you could use the contacts of a broken cartridge and plug it into the N64 and use it as a connector for a cable. It could maybe sodered to 
    a replacement slot I found on Aliexpress.
 
5. Painting it is actually a pretty good idea which would barely take any effort. Thanks for that!
 
6. The electrician and the carpenter could maybe make the cartridge mounting thing to also include little Power/Reset buttons. I agree that that wouldn't be the biggest of efforts.
 
About my soldering skills: they don't exist.
As I'm German and we have three types of school types, I visit the one which aims to teach the most theoretical education. As much as I'd would have wished to have a few classes of the other school types and learn soldering etc., the system, doesn't allow you to take classes of the other types, even if your school features all three types.

No. 1: You can buy n64 extender cables, plug them into the 64, then install the other end on the side/top/wherever on your case. Install wouldn't be too difficult, drill a hole and then epoxy. You could make it look clean with maybe an accent ring, or bondo/paint.
 
No. 2: I had to look up pics of the n64 psu... yikes. Maybe see if you can power it thru your computers psu?
 
No. 3: I don't see any reason you couldn't connect your av/usb converter to an internal port, just remember that its a bad idea to hot plug/unplug from internal ports. Only plug/unplug while the system is powered off. If its a question of needing more internal usb ports, NZXT makes a pretty popular internal hub, I have one heading to me now.
 
No. 4: You are talking about building a pretty custom component there. There are probably very few people who could give you advise on how to move the cartridge slot off the mainboard and put it somewhere else. It would honestly be easier to mount the main board in the top of the case and cut a slot to put cartridges in, but it looks like you're wanting to put it in the bottom.
 
How are your soldering skills? It might (BIG might here) be able to desolder the cartridge port, then solder wires from the port to the mainboard to extend it... but the delay added by the wires could also just make carts unreadable, or just break the whole thing.
 
No. 5: Same as 4 really. Have you considered painting the memory module, or maybe just covering it up with an acrylic plate or something?
 
No. 6: Buttons and switches are pretty easy to desolder and move (compared to what you would need to do for No. 4/5). Go to a radioshack, or hobby electronics shop and you should find single pole switch (for power), contact switch (for reset), as well as brackets, passthrus, and other mounting hardware so you can have it on the front of your case.
 
Looks like an awesome project, gonna be a difficult one though.

On on of mine, I just put a drain on each side of the main rad with the extra ports. But this is something I’d defienely prefer given the limitations of most rads I use. 

first off, ditch the monsoon free centers, after 4 fittings failing where the collar came off the tubes causing leaks and the company owner not getting back to me, im done with them, they're supposred to be mission critical and in my experience are not fit for purpose.
 
As for you solution, i like it, used a valve as an etension as seen top left of this image.

I dont think puppies come with molex connectors. This will be a bit more work than you think.

If you have time to type out a reply you have time to snip.  There's no excuse, it's not that hard

Check craigslist, there's usually someone giving away or selling an old biege box case for super cheap.

I have a Corsair sf600 on the way. It's SFX and full modular. Also have custom cable and sleeving supplies coming. Everything I can do custom is going to go exactly where it needs to go and not a mm further. Everything I can't do (like the usb header cable) I will end up building a cable race for and stuffing it in there, but I'm not that far along yet. It will be... challenging
 
Compared to what? I mean, it's a 50$ case, you get what you pay for, BUT it's steel, and it's small so it's very structurally stable. I like this case, but I'm also not afraid to cut chunks out of it if I need to and make custom parts if needed. Your mileage may vary. I have found it incredibly easy to customize though because it allows a lot of access without the panels on it.
 
Ok, last couple of pictures. I found a fun engineering challenge while test fitting everything together. Lets see if you can spot it!
 
I actually have a plan to deal with the GPU block, and no it's not leaving the top panel off lol! You guys will see soon, I need to build a vacuum form table before I can deal with the top.
 
And last picture for now. I took the windowed top panel and put it on the side, and screwed the monsoon pump into a random hole in the bottom panel, but this is closer to what the final build will be like.

 
 
Still need to finish the bracket, and cut windows out of the side panels. I also have some iron cross pattern modders mesh here that I want to replace the front mesh with. The big hold up is that I'm still ordering parts. My PSU is on the way, but my next order of parts (including i7 and delid kit, hdd, ram, and a buttload of fittings) won't be placed until next month after bills get paid.
 
In the meantime, I was filming most of the build process, so I will be editing together some videos of the process. If I can get at least one person on this forum to buy a drill press because of my videos, I'll be happy lol.
 
No seriously... get a drill press. Mine has a name... It's Lil' Blue. That is how much I love that thing.

I haven't built a computer in about 10 years, I've just been running on laptops. I figured it was time to build something better.
 
This was the first order. Obligatory product shot:
 

 
 
I put together my pump/res first. I used white and red parts from the Monsoon MMRS line, and dropped an EK D5 in it. This is a pretty dark picture, but it looks good with the fittings on:

 
 
Believe or not, this monster fits underneath the mobo tray of the core V1 with a couple mm of clearance, WHILE on the 11mm stand! Not in this orientation with the fittings on top of course. I plan on having the ports on the side.
 
Next up I fitted the radiators in. I'm using a Black Ice Nemesis 140 Xflow stealth in the front, and a Black Ice Nemesis 160 in the back. Neither of these rads would fit in the stock case. The 140 was relatively simple, I just had to take my dremel and cut a notch out of a strut on the driver side of the case. About 15 minutes of work and it slid right in with a TT Riing installed, and I was able to install a second Riing where the stock 200mm fan that came with the case was.
 
The 160 rad on the other hand was more of a pain. The 80mm fan ports on the core V1 are right next to each other with no gap, but the 160 has a small gap between them. This means you can line up the rad with one or the other fan port, but not both at the same time. I ended up needing to make an polycarb bracket. First I cut the honeycomb fan grills out of the back of the core, and then I laid a piece of Lexan over that and marked out the pattern for the fan screws, then I flipped it over and did the same thing for the rad, but on the other side. I took it over to my drill press and tapped the holes for m3 screws (fan holes) and m4 screws (rad holes). Then I realized in order to get the bracket to sit flush I would need to countersink the rad screws. Unfortunately, I don't have a single m3 screw in my shop thats agreeable with being countersunk, so I have to run out and get some today. But for as much of a hassle as it was, without the bracket I wouldn't have been able to offset the radiator from the fans a few mm. The stock position would have had it basically rubbing the PCI slots, so I moved it over on the bracket.
 

 
Thats it for my picture limit. More to come shortly.

Your the second post in thread, you don't need to include the ENTIRE first post in your reply, and just say "yes" at the bottom of it.
I'm asking because alot of modern cases are in the 8-9" wide range.