Sneling

This part list is private
 
change so we can see the parts

agree
 
Some people are talking like graphics cards are meant to be used to game only, mining with them is somehow morally wrong. Don't we all have freedom to do whatever we want with our hardware? If miners can preorder them why can't you?
 

Three uses bands 20 and 3 for 4G and 1 for 3G. The OnePlus 5 supports all of those bands, so it will be fine. 

1&2. Check for Aura compatibility, since you're running an Asus board. You can get some really clean effects quite easily.

RGB boosts performance by dank%, so you choose
 
do you want to change the theme of your build easily? Then yes. Otherwise, no. Looking at your build, you haven't included any other rgb components, so eh.

RGB boosts performance by dank%, so you choose
 
do you want to change the theme of your build easily? Then yes. Otherwise, no. Looking at your build, you haven't included any other rgb components, so eh.

He had a point though... Just open all your ports and you're done, no security flaws
 
I wouldn't recommend the shared hosting thing (at least from a price perspective for you), as it goes to 40 bucks a year after the first year. Maybe look into OVH, I know they have some pretty cheap stuff for web.

1.6K seems like an extremely high price. What type of features do you want? Ultra Wide? 4K?
 
PS: Go at the bottom of the page, click 'theme' and set to dark. You'll see a little problem

Plot twist: OP is actually 980 guy trying to get a free 1080 Ti from LMG

Expect updates to ramp up. I have started editing now. I have over 3000 pictures to go though. Sorry for the long delay.


Time to fill the engraved letters and wing x99 logo!

Warming it from the bottom.

Then dab the shellac on the top.

Let it cool.

Observe your hard work and burnt fingers...

After some sanding you can finally see the results! I decided to go with the all black shellac (clock makers black shellac).

This is the real line in the top of the case. Still needs some more sanding but you can see the pattern now!

All done! Same procedure was done on the other side.

Here you can see the button assembly and the 3 small aluminium pieces that will be glued in place.

I had to mill these in a inverted shape so it would fit, and then I sanded down the "backplate". It took about 3 hours... Not the recommended way. But since I could not mill these so small and send it of to the anodizing company I had little to no choice.

It sure fits nice though!

My initials A and F is the logo.

This is the button assembly itself. Magnets are turned against each other and provides a resistance to the button. And I soldered a small board to fit the actual switch and LEDs for the backlit. It is very tight with space here. And I wanted to get as even illumination as possible, so I just taped some pieces plexi on the leds to diffuse them a bit more.

This is the back side of the cover. Two connectors, one of the power switch and one to power the LEDs.

Here is the other part of the assembly.

I thought of adding 2 extra paper pieces but decided against it after testing. It was better without.

Here it is illuminated.

Same pictures without the LEDs on

This is the effect I looked for. An even illuminated logo. It is not a 100% even when i put it close. But still very close to perfect. I would probably have had to make the assembly deeper to fit it. But this was a compromise since there was no space left. I am still very happy with the results!

Hey guys,
 
These were the final photos I took before getting all the panels on and finishing the build
 










 
As you can see, I went with black coolant and I also have a few red cold cathodes in there just for some more lightsaber references
 
Stay tuned for final pics!
 
Cheers,
 
Alex

Hey guys,
 
Time to start focusing my attention back to this build log and get it all up to date! I've been pretty busy as always however the build is finished and I will unveil it over the next couple of days.
 
I just want to show you guys all the progress first and I still need to take final photos and film it.
 
I'll start with two massive 10TB Seagate IronWolf HDDs that are going in the build, a plethora of red Bitspower fittings and the simple weathering effects done to the case.
 














 
Hope you guys like it. Same as the front panel that I shared before, I wanted the build to look like it's been through a Star Wars space battle. The paint effects were done by dry brushing some simple acrylic paint, a very easy effect to achieve. You can also see an acrylic motherboard skirt cover panel.
 
Stay tuned for more!
 
Cheers,
 
Alex

To add on Not-Sean's comment, I've always felt like the 'bass' you hear in headphones is never the same you get from speakers.
Also, the HD series is very comfortable, especially in long term use. Whilst my latest one (HD8) took some time to adapt due to the extra weight, you can easily wear it for a whole day non-stop (when in long trips or long-session gaming, for example) without regretting it.
 
Ultimately, if you want to be comfortable in them, I'd recommend you try to go to a store and try them on. A lot of people have extremely different definitions for 'comfortable headphones', so you have to find your own preferences. Heavy? Material? Pressure on head? Stuff like that

To add on Not-Sean's comment, I've always felt like the 'bass' you hear in headphones is never the same you get from speakers.
Also, the HD series is very comfortable, especially in long term use. Whilst my latest one (HD8) took some time to adapt due to the extra weight, you can easily wear it for a whole day non-stop (when in long trips or long-session gaming, for example) without regretting it.
 
Ultimately, if you want to be comfortable in them, I'd recommend you try to go to a store and try them on. A lot of people have extremely different definitions for 'comfortable headphones', so you have to find your own preferences. Heavy? Material? Pressure on head? Stuff like that

Are you looking for a headset with a microphone?
If not, I would recommend checking out non-gaming brands, as they will (often) have better quality at lower prices.
Whilst 100$ won't get you the best headset out there, you can still get decent ones.
Sennheiser HD 200 pro
Audio Technica ATH-M30x
Beyerdynamic DTX910
 
I haven't tested those headphones, but those are the type of things you could find in the price range.

SATA is not a storage protocol the same way NVMe is.
 
SATA is an electrical interface standard, and can be replaced by a PCIe connection.
 
On top of the SATA or PCIe connection, there's a storage protocol for how the interface is used. The most advanced standard available across a SATA connection is AHCI, which was designed for HDDs but with some usable stuff for SSDs too. NVMe is a newer standard designed solely for SSDs, but it requires a PCIe connection.
 
Some older PCIe SSDs didn't support the NVMe protocol, and instead relied on good old AHCI. The Samsung SM951, forerunner to the 950 Pro, has two versions, one that uses AHCI and one that uses NVMe. Both across a PCIe connection from an M.2 slot.

It's actually NVME vs. AHCI. SATA is the interface, and PCIE is another. M.2 is the connector.
 
There are M.2 NVME PCIE SSDs, M.2 AHCI PCIE SSDs, and M.2 SATA SSDs. M.2 NVME drives top out around 3.5GB/s (this isn't a cap, just the fastest drive available now), M.2 AHCI drives top out around 1.5GB/s iirc, and M.2 SATA drives top out around 500MB/s.

Another thing you could do is a non-gaming headphone with, for example, a ModMic on it (or any other cheaper alternative). Whilst this can be a problem for some who really want an AIO solution, it really isn't a big deal. This is more common in higher-budgets, so you might be better off with some gaming headphones from some brand. I cannot really recommend some here, as I've never owned any 'gaming' ones.

I just tried it with my phone and it worked, after steps below:
Try right clicking on the volume thingy in the bottom right and select recording devices.
Select line in and hit properties.
Switch to tab "listen", and tic the box "Listen to this device"
Hit OK in both windows. You should be able to hear sounds from your phone now.

You can upgrade to a sata SSD, the motherboard doesn't have any m.2 slots on it from the looks of it.

Okay, I see. Thanks for your help man.

@Aphexxis
FYI, I would highly recommend using a sound card with monitors. Depending on your usage, it will be really useful. Additionally, you will definitely be able to hear a great sound difference, even if you get a 'cheap' (it's all relative) model.
I haven't looked at what @SSL recommended in depth, but I would definitely buy a sound card with monitors if I didn't have one already.
If you can get 2 of the monitors for a total of ~250 pounds, you could look at the Komplete Audio 6, which would fit in your budget. It is a very decent sound card, isn't too expensive, and rather small. Again, if you have any ideas/preferences, tell me and I'll help you.

They are the Apple of headphones because Apple acquired them back in 2014.

@rowanhazard
I hope it will!
 
Today I made my first hardtube Here is a look at Alphacool satin tubing :thumb:

 

 


 

Whilst I haven't heard of an all-in-one solution as @anothertom said, I'm sure you can make it work.
Look at http://www.chevolume.com/. It looks like you can root audio to different peripherals. You could then have an external mixer and set your program's device to each of the mixer's lane. I have a Komplete Audio 6. Whilst it isn't a mixer, you can still select from different outputs. So I assume you could that has a set of inputs (from USB) as well as a controller for each.