ThisIsCheez

SonicWall doesn't support UPnP so I'd be highly surprised if that's how the QNAP was working. I do have a SSL VPN with 2FA setup and I have considered using that but that will only be a solution for my laptop and phone. If I was at a friend's place and wanted to use their Xbox or Roku then my SSL VPN wouldn't help me out.

Internal port is 32400, I am attempting to change my external port. If I just change the external port and setup my access rules and NAT policies to reflect the port I've changed it to it works intermediately. If I change my NAT policy to the new port but translate it to 32400 it works. I'm trying to find out if there's a way to get it to work without translating the service.

So I have a SonicWALL on my home network and a newly setup Plex server. Before I had the Plex Server app running on my QNAP NAS but recently moved it to a dedicated host. The first funny thing is my QNAP is also behind my SonicWALL and I had to make no adjustments to my firewall for it to work correctly, just installed the app and it worked flawless. The issue I'm having now is remote access constantly cuts in and out on my new Plex server so I setup firewall rules and NAT policies. It works great, but ONLY if I set the Plex remote access connection port to 32400 and do the same for my firewall rules and NAT policies. I tried settings it to 32401, I like avoiding default ports when possible, and every few minutes it will cut in between remote access being available and not available. Also, when it's connected with port 32401 I do not have the option for original quality streaming, unless I swap back to port 32400 then it will stay connected 100% and allow me to choose original quality. Has anyone had a similar issue to this and has any suggestions? So far I think I have a fix, but want some input on if this fix is the best option, or if there is abetter way. If I change the public port on my Plex server to 32401 and have my inbound and outbound NAT policy to have the service source as 32401 and translated source as original I get issues, but instead of having the translated source as original if I change it to 32400 it seems to work. This still gives me my original goal of Plex not being accessible over the web by the default port of 32400 but if anyone else has another method they have tried or believe may be more secure please let me know.

So I've been using my Gigabyte Eagle OC 3070 for about a week now. It was 100% not my first choice in card, but after you've been waiting in line at MicroCenter in 30F, wet weather for an hour you're not going to leave empty handed. I'm happy with the performance, and it honestly looks badass, but man is this thing loud. Fans are at 2200RPM+ most of the time to keep the temp around 69 - 71C. My case has great airflow, and I even bought some new fans and cranked them up to 1100RPM to make sure my airflow was good but this thing just runs HOT! I guess I'm just not used to it, coming from a MSI QuickSilver 1070 that kept 70C with fans at barely over 1600RPM. My first question is anyone else experiencing similar temps and fan speeds with their Eagle OC 3070? Second question, friend has a Gigabyte Gaming OC 3070 that he's willing to trade for my Eagle OC + $50. He runs a PC repair shop and is putting it in a build to sell so he's not too concerned with features. I know the Gaming OC is clocked a bit higher, has dual BIOS, and has the potential to run 50W higher but is the cooler the exact same as the Eagle? I was thinking of taking him up on his trade if I'd get lower temps but if it's the same cooler I don't see it helping any.

Picked up a Eagle OC 3070 last week and just got around to installing it last night. After a couple games of Warzone I could hear the fans running so I checked Afterburner and HWmonitor and they were running at 95% (2400RPM) but my card was still staying around 70C. I attempted to set a fan curve so they would run at 1850RPM but this caused my temps to spike to nearly 90C. It seems the normal for this card is 1850RPM and keeping 65 - 70C under load. I've also compared my FPS in Warzone to others with the same hardware and I seem to be getting nearly 20fps less (90 - 105 compared to 115 - 130). I have tried the following: * Uninstalling drivers, reinstalling * Uninstall with DDU * 3 different driver versions * Taking side panel off the case * Uninstalling Afterburner * Reseating the card Specs: * Gigabyte RTX 3070 Eagle OC * Ryzen 2700X OC to 4.1GHz * 16gb RAM @ 3200MHz * 750W EVGA PSU * MSI X370 Gaming Pro Carbon I highly doubt this is normal for this card and wanted to get some feedback on what to try before asking for a RMA. Edit: For comparison in this same build I was running a MSI Gaming X 1070 with a 210MHz Core/400MHz Memory overclock, fan speed at 55%, and kept 68 - 71C

Scratch what I said before! Got this baby to boot from USB! There's not a lot of support for EonNAS online, they seem to be enterprise only hardware (you can't even register on their website with a common email like outlook, hotmail, gmail) and putting in tickets with them gives little to no information unless you have the newest product or a support plan with them. I finally found a user manual and turns out one of the USB ports is the "debug/console" port and you enter debug mode by holding down delete on boot. Popped a FreeNAS USB in there and it booted! Since you mentioned FreeNAS doesn't support what I'm looking for I'm going to give UnRaid 30 day trail a spin and see if I like it. Thanks again!

Good to know, that could be an option for me then. Thanks buddy.

Thanks for this, I might end up just installing Linux or Windows and try something from there. Only downfall is I can't get this damn thing to boot from USB, only way I can get it to boot to an OS is installing the OS on a SSD/HDD from another PC and putting it in drive slot 5. Sucks because that takes up one of my drive bays. The firmware on the EonNAS allows me to do what I need to do but the only version of SMB it supports is v1, which I really don't want to enable on any of my devices.

So I have a EonNAS Pro 510 that I picked up for BurstCoin mining back in the day and want to use it for it's intended purpose now. I currently have a 3TB, 4TB, and 5TB drive. In the future when my savings are in the right place I plan on doing 5 x 4TB in RAID 5, but that's a project for another day. For now I'm wanting to do daily backups and then have some space for media that I don't care about having backups for. If I did the 3TB and 4TB drives in RAID 1, would that leave a 1TB partition on the 4TB drive that I'm free to use, or would I need to sacrifice the entire space on the 4TB drive? I would use the 3TB + 4TB for my daily backups, the 1TB partition on the 4TB that's not backed up for STL and 3D printer projects, and the 5TB for random media. Thanks in advance!

Run a benchmark and see if it preforms like a 1070. Also check the memory and clock speed in CPU-Z and see if it matches.

Looks like the version on the module tells you the IC type. Version Vendor IC Confirmation? 3.20 Micron 4Gbit Rev.A Presumed 3.21 Micron 4Gbit Rev.B Confirmed 3.22 Micron 4Gbit Rev.E* Speculated 3.22 Micron 4Gbit Rev.F* Confirmed 3.31 Micron 8Gbit Rev.B Confirmed 3.31 Micron 8Gbit Rev.D Presumed 3.31 Micron 8Gbit Rev.E Confirmed 3.40 Micron 16Gbit Rev.B (2133 bin) Confirmed 3.44 Micron 16Gbit Rev.B (2666 bin) Confirmed 4.14 Samsung 4Gbit D-die (4x16) Confirmed 4.23 Samsung 4Gbit D-die Confirmed 4.24 Samsung 4Gbit E-die Confirmed 4.31 Samsung 8Gbit B-die Confirmed 4.32 Samsung 8Gbit C-Die Speculated 4.49 Samsung 16Gbit M-die Speculated 4.40 Samsung 16Gbit A-die Speculated 5.29 Hynix 4Gbit MFR Confirmed 5.20 Hynix 4Gbit AFR Confirmed 5.21 Hynix 4Gbit BJR Speculated 5.39 Hynix 8Gbit MFR Confirmed 5.30 Hynix 8Gbit AFR Presumed 5.31 Hynix 8Gbit "BFR"??? Speculated 5.32 Hynix 8Gbit CJR Presumed 8.20** Nanya 4Gbit Rev.A Speculated 8.30** Nanya 8Gbit Rev.A Speculated

It really goes back and forth depending on the game. Overall the 1060 is going to be a bit more powerful but you're loosing 1gb of VRAM. What's your budget?

Does most high end memory use the same IC or is it completely random like with GPUs? Edit: I checked the pics he posted and it looks like they are ver 4.31 which is the same version my modules are.

My friend owns a computer shop and when mining wasn't profitable for us anymore a couple years back we put all our old cards in rigs and sold them. Haven't had one come back yet. Most mining cards are undervolted and kept in good conditions so I wouldn't have any fear of a mining card going bad on you. I will say this. AVOID this MSI Armor cards! They are cheap for a reason. We had so many issues with those cards (we had about 18 of them) that we sold them off to another miner because we didn't feel comfortable selling them to customers. Here's a eBay store that's sold 70+ Sapphire RX 580s, offers 30 day returns, and have 99% positive feedback with 3000+ reviews. If you want to go used I'd feel comfortable with this one, but personally I'd drop the extra $40 and get the new one from Best Buy.

I know you're trying to penny pinch, and $40 is a lot when trying to budget a low cost upgrade or PC, but Best Buy has brand new 8gb XFX RX 580s for $159 right now: https://www.bestbuy.com/site/xfx-amd-radeon-rx-580-gts-xxx-edition-8gb-gddr5-pci-express-3-0-graphics-card/6136515.p?skuId=6136515&cmp=RMX&irclickid=R6c0FS1TBxyOR810TbWK8Xs3UknVTnxIQxKe280&irgwc=1&ref=198&loc=R6c0FS1TBxyOR810TbWK8Xs3UknVTnxIQxKe280&acampID=633495&mpid=79301 Also if you filter used/open box, Buy It Now, lowest price on eBay there's lots under $120. Some even from big shops that have sold dozens of them and have great feedback: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=rx+580&_sacat=0&LH_ItemCondition=3000|1500&LH_BIN=1&_sop=15

Quick rundown. I currently have 2x8gb of the older style Corsair Vengeance RGB that's been discontinued. They are 3466MHz modules (Got these couple years back when the memory shortage was going on and they were somehow cheaper than 3200MHz) running at 3200MHz since that's the max my motherboard supports. I've wanted to upgrade to 32gb (4x8gb) but it's really hard to find the original Vengeance RGB and when you do it's expensive. I found some used for sale that are 3333MHz for a solid price and want to pick them up. Here's where my question starts: As long as the memory timings are the same I shouldn't have any compatibility issues, right? If I was running 2133MHz and 3200MHz I could see a problem but since I'll be clocking both sets lower than what they are rated for I don't foresee any issues but I wanted to get a 2nd opinion.

It could be that slot 1 is faulty, or it could have just nbot been seated correctly. I'd do some more testing in slot 2, see if it stays stable, and if it doesn't reoccur put in back in slot 1.

Does it do the same thing in a different PCI-E slot?

I never trust the built in reset function when a PC has been compromised. Windows installs take 10 minutes nowadays so it makes since to do it that way.

If you're in the US, quick couple minutes on eBay I was able to put you build together for ~$70. I visit a tech recycling facility about once a week to hunt out hardware to resell and I could find your CPU, GPU and similar hardware to the rest of your build for <$30. Realistically if you wanted to sell it you'd be better off parting it out and throwing the memory, CPU, GPU, and cooler on eBay if they are in decent shape. Personally, I'd keep it and turn it into a media center. Man, you guys are really high balling this hardware. There's going to be very little market for used storage and PSU. I might bump my estimate up a bit since I didn't realize the case was that nice but I still think it'd only bring $100 max on a good day.

If you're wanting cheap, reliable NVME storage and are in the US check out Inland brand stuff. It's MicroCenter's in-house brand and they are a killer deal. I've been running one if their 1tb NVME drives for a year or more and haven't had a single issue. Their 512gb NVME drive is the same price as the Kingston A2000 you're looking at but with 3,100MB/s (A2000 is 2,000MB/s) https://www.amazon.com/Inland-Premium-512GB-Internal-Solid/dp/B07PB5C36M?ref_=ast_sto_dp

If they preform within ~5% if each other I'd rather go with the 5700 XT. Cheaper and I have no need for ray tracing. I've got a 850W 80+ Gold PSU so I don't have any worries about that. It's overkill, but it was on sale for such a good deal I couldn't pass it up. Thanks, buddy!

When you say reset do you mean using the built in Windows reset feature? If so, that doesn't cut it IMO. Here's what I'd suggest. Completely reinstall Windows. Don't use the reset or recover feature, wipe the drive and reinstall. Use another computer to create the install media and follow this YouTube video if you're unfamiliar with Windows reinstall. This will wipe EVERYTHING on the drive, backup what you want to keep. Download your browser of choice (I suggest Firefox, but chrome is fine), install uBlock Origin, and NoScript. uBlock Origin blocks ads, you wouldn't believe how many people get viruses from clicking on an ad that looks like a download link/button. NoScript blocks all scripts from running on a webpage until you allow them. Allows you to make the mistake of visiting a sketchy site without having to worry about anything nasty running. Get a password manager. I use RoboForm but LastPass and Keeper are good choices too. Change your password on EVERYTHING you use, make the passwords long as hell and all different, and enable 2FA on everything you use that offers it. Triple check your accounts to make sure they didn't add a 2nd phone number/email that allows them to recover your account. Update the firmware and change the default admin password on your router. Use common sense and be careful in the future. Not required, but get a Raspberry Pi for $5 and setup PiHole. It's a DNS service that blocks ads and malicious addresses. If anything get it for the convenience of never having ads again. If you have any other questions let me know. EDIT: Just noticed you might just be getting attempts and not successful sign ins. Honestly, that's just life on the web and you'll have to deal with it. if you have a Hotmail/Live/Microsoft account and view your sign in activity under the privacy settings you'll be amazed how many people try to sign into your account each day. If they aren't successfully signing in, don't worry. If they are, follow my steps.

Currently using a 1440p/144Hz monitor paired with a GTX 1070. I tend to play everything max settings at 1440p so e-sport titles like Overwatch and Apex hit the 90+ mark while others AAA games I play hit the 60+ mark, sometimes with settings turned down a bit. I'm looking to upgrade so all my e-sport titles hit 144fps and AAA titles will run 60 - 100fps without having to sacrifice my quality settings. The 5700 XT is in my price range but I'm wondering if it's worth the upgrade over a GTX 1070, or maybe I should save up a bit more and go with a RTX 2070S? Anything over a 2070S is outside what I'm willing to pay. Looking for some input from someone with a similar setup. Hardware it would be paired with: * Ryzen 7 1700X * 16gb 3200MHz Memory * MSI X370 Gaming Pro Carbon Any input is appreciated.

What resolution are you trying to record/stream in? 6,000kbps bitrate is pretty dang high and is overkill in most applications. I stream @ 720p, 60fps, 3200kbps bitrate and get dang good quality. Here's an example of one of the last times I streamed at those settings; please ignore the fact that I forgot to enable desktop audio so the stream is slient except for me talking - I'd try dropping the bitrate and see if you get any better results, and with that CPU I wouldn't try another over 1080p.