Gohdan

I’m not

Tried the fans on my partners' computer, they work just fine on RGB. Fair to say my ARGB header is dead? And if so, is the best path to buy a new ARGB controller? I'd warranty it but Asus warranty in Canada takes a full 3+ weeks for a Mobo and I unfortunately can't go that long without one.

Unfortunately I don't I do have my partner's computer that has an ARGB header though, think I might daisy chaining my fans outside her case and see if it works on that header as I'm out of ideas otherwise.

Problem: RGB issue on ARGB fans. The fans spin just fine daisy chained together but aren’t lighting up. The ARGB connections are daisy chained and connected to the ARGB 5v header (I double checked the right header). If only one is connected directly to the ARGB header, that fan will light up a solid red or yellow but doesn’t show up in Asus' Armory Crate software and it doesn't respond to any colour changes in the software. This is the same situation for any of the 3 fans if hooked up individually - the RGB turns "on" but is never recognized by the software. Attempted fixes Tried changing the order of the daisy chain, tried plugging in only one fan. When I plug in one fan, it sorta works but it's a solid red light and isn't picked up in Armory. Once I re-daisy chain it, both the original and the new light go out. I’ve also tried resetting my bios, updated the bios and turned off/on Aura in the BIOS. Operating system: Windows 11 x64 but the RGB either works or it doesn't work before Windows even loads. System specs: Asus X570 Tuf Gaming Pro w/ 2 RGB headers (not used) and 1 5v ARGB header (the one I'm using). 32GB DDR4 Corsair RAM, 850W PSU, RTX 3080 FTW3. So far as I can tell, neither the PSU nor the individual header are being overwhelmed based on specs. The fans in question are Arctic P12 ARGB fans, same as here: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/FQ6p99/arctic-p12-pst-a-rgb-0db-488-cfm-120-mm-fans-3-pack-acfan00232a Location: Vancouver, Canada Googled Yeah and I've searched reddit + other forums to no avail. Most of the results aren't as specific as this or the user didn't actually plug in the ARGB header.

I've only using my 3200 RAM and no go if I use either or both of the left two slots. The issue with using the two I have working is that it won't allow dual channel since they're not matching slots.

I think my motherboard has two defective RAM slots but I'd like to make sure I haven't missed anything before RMAing it. It's a Gigabyte Z170-MX Gaming 5. I bought two new sticks of DDR4 3200mhz RAM a couple days ago as an upgrade from my 1 stick of DDR4 2133mhz RAM, mostly for dual channel benefits but also because it seems a few applications benefit from the extra speed. But that doesn't really matter I guess, as my issue is related to the slots. Two of the four RAM slots don't seem to respond at all to RAM. If I put a stick or two sticks in them (the two left slots), the PC doesn't boot at all. The right two work but unfortunately if I use them, it's forced into single channel as the slots go black 1, red 1, black 2, red 2 and I need to match up two colours to make use of the dual channel. I've tried resetting the CMOS, updating the motherboard BIOS and re-mounting my CPU cooler as some people online had suggested a too-tight CPU cooler or misplaced CPU could cause a slot or two to stop working. The two that don't work are the two closest to the CPU. I've also tried using my old RAM in those slots and if put it in either, the computer doesn't boot as well. I've tried every combination of placement for both my old and new RAM imaginable at this point. Anything else I can try before RMAing this? And if I have to RMA it, how is Gigabtyte at it? I'm hoping they can send me a replacement and I send the broken one back if I give them a CC but I've never had to RMA with them.

It's about 110hz. I'm using one of the Korean offbrand monitors from a few years ago that could go up to 120hz when unlocked. It isn't gsync or anything like that.

Is it reasonable to assume I could sell my MSI R9-290x 4GB Gaming edition for $200-250 in Canadian dollars? I just looked on /r/hardwareswap and it looks like, at least on the American side, people are selling these things for way more than they were even just a few months ago. I've been considering a buy on a GTX 1070 or 1080 anyway so I can both run stuff on high/ultra on my 1440p Qnix monitor as well as use Nvidia Gamestream to my Nvidia Shield TV hooked up to my TV. 1) What should I expect to sell my card for? It's about 2-3 years old and I have the original box but no receipt. It's in great condition. 2) Is it going to be worth the upgrade for 1440p? Based on the few benchmark comparison I could find it seems to be. I kind of don't like this card for the summer anyway, it runs hot and loud but apparently that's normal for 290x cards to do. If I do, is it worth the extra dough for a 1080 over 1070? Currently the cheapest 1080 I can find is $689 CAD vs the cheapest reasonable 1070 is about $599. Seems like a no brainer to pay the extra $$ but just wanting to check.

Are the R9 290x going for more than they should be right now too because of mining? I've been looking at upgrading to a GTX 1070 or 1080 myself and I see the 290x listed for 250-400+ on eBay, more than I expected for a 4 year old card. FWIW, the rest of my PC is an i5-6600k @ 4GHz and I use a 1440p Qnix monitor that caps out around 110hz. So no freesync or G-sync but I'm definitely bottlenecked by gpu.

Not sure if it's any help but here's the outside cabling setup and [currently RJ-11, though it looks like CAT5e connected] wall plate in the basement

Hi guys,My parents live upstairs, and for a few months I'll be renting their downstairs suite from them. In the mean time, I need to figure out my best option to get a connection downstairs.Current setup: Telus Optik 150 down/150 up connected to RT-N66U. The connection is strong enough to reach downstairs but it fluctuates based on the room downstairs.I would like to both have my desktop downstairs wired in some fashion or another and also host a Plex server on another PC. Due to this, I don't think Powerline will work. When my stuff from the move arrives next week, I will have my Asus AC-66U router within possession. I've done a bit of reading that would suggest I could use the secondary Asus router as an access point or repeater and essentially have it function as a "mesh" system. This doesn't seem too difficult if the SSIDs for the networks are the same as upstairs for a handoff, but I'm skeptical.What would the best method be to get a stable connection from the upstairs router to the downstairs router without taking too big of a hit on connectivity? The house is about 10 years old if it matters.My options, as I can see, are as follows but I'd like to know the general consensus on which way to goa) Use the AC-66U as a repeater. I'd need to likely mount it near the ceiling in the basement so it receives as good a connection as possible. From here, I could wire this secondary router to my main PC, the future Plex server PC and my Nvidia Shield TV. So far this seems the most likely/plastique scenario. If I do go this route, can I still use this AC router to output AC wifi despite the upstairs router being N?b) Wire ethernet through the upstairs to the downstairs. My father isn't too keen on this idea as it would require drilling a hole through the ground in the upstairs office but if it's better for both now and future tenants, he's open to it.c) Powerline from the upstairs office to the downstairs, with the output going into the AC-66U. I have to imagine this might kill some of the connection even with a gigabit one but I'm not really sure. As mentioned, the house is 10 years old and other places I've tried Powerline in were a total bust, but most of them were 30+ year old houses.d) The house is wired with Cat5E but for some reason the outlets in the house all have a telephone jack. The main office upstairs has an ethernet jack in the wall that outputs ethernet to another input jack in another office upstairs. Is it possible that the rest of the house also functions as an output for the CAT5E and that the origianl electrician just wired it for telephone connectivity, or was it more likely that it was wired exclusively. for telephone connectivity on CAT5E? I can't seem to find a switch anywhere in the house or outside the house but my dad said that the original electrician insisted he wire it for CAT5E for future proofing. What's the liklihood that if i take the telephone jack plate off one of the outputs downstairs that it would also output an internet signal and not just a telephone signal?Regarding D, I also went outside to look at their Fibre box and I can't seem to find anything resembling a switch. Is it possible that the box outside can still function like a switch if it's just a mess of red, white, orange, blue and green cables or is it more likely just for a telephone connection?

Backstory for context: I'm moving into a new place with my girlfriend who I lent a PC for HTPC purposes, and she's bringing it. Currently I use my main PC [i5-6600k] as a Plex Server for my needs, but in the new place I'd like to change that for the sake of freeing up my PC to be turned off at night and also to save on electricity. The goal is to have a PC [the HTPC/GF PC] in my house hooked up to a small monitor for the main purpose of hosting Plex content but also serving as a casual browsing computer when need be - for this reason, along with my complete lack of experience with Unix/Linux, it'll be running Windows 8 or Windows 10. However, I've got what I assume are a few problems. Namely, my motherboard on the incoming GF HTPC only supports 4 SATA ports, one of which will be taken up by the 60GB SSD whose sole purpose would be to host Windows itself and maybe Plex if I can move the media/database files onto one of the slow drives. Currently the HTPC has three internal HDDs [in addition to the SSD, meaning all 4 SATA ports are filled] plugged into it and one external HDD via USB 3. Parts for reference: CPU: i3-3200. Old processor but apparently its 4200 Passmark score means I *should* be able to do two 1080p Plex streams at once. RAM: DDR3 : 8GB/Kit : PC12800 - hopefully this is enough? Motherboard GA-H77N-WIFI [1155 chipset, mITX] Video Card: GTX 650 Ti. Not unwilling to sacrifice this if needed for the PCI-E port if it means more SATA ports. Case: BitFenix Prodigy. I can't remember how many HDD bays are in this but I probably need more. PSU I can't remember. i think it's 500W-ish HDDs 1x 60GB SSD for Windows, 3x 3TB internal HDD, 1x 4TB External HDD that I wouldn't be opposed to shucking if I can make it all internal. Future Hard Drives [currently in my own PC, to be moved: 1x 5TB Internal HDD, 1x 4TB Internal HDD, 1x 3TB Internal HDD, 1x 4TB External HDD that I also wouldn't be opposed to shucking. Drives in Canada are pretty expensive right now too so switching out my 3TB drives for 5TB drives wouldn't be the cheapest thing in the world to do if I can avoid it. Few questions: 1) Is this adventure worth taking on? Or am I better suited to spend the money and buy a standalone NAS or something else with 8ish Drive Bays? 2) What's my best route to add more SATA ports? I've read something about adding some via the PCI-E bay but I don't actually know much about this. 2) Is the i3-3220 legitimately good enough for 2 streams? I share my Plex Library with some family at the moment but there is generally no more than 1-3 streams going on at a given time, including my own usage. 3) Is there an incentive for using Linux or another OS over Windows if I go down this road? For whatever it's worth, my setup is [or will be] a Shield TV hooked up to my AV Receiver, 5.1 setup and 60" Plasma TV. Because of that my files are quite large and almost every HDD I mentioned is pretty much full, downsizing isn't an ideal way to go. Also, all of the media I use is already ripped so no BluRay drive or other drive is necessary - I can do that from a different PC if/when I want to rip more of my own discs.

Clearing the CMOS worked. Thanks guys!

Device: Gigabyte Z170MX-Gaming 5 motherboardOperating System: Windows 10 64 bit, up to dateI purchased this from a friend a few months ago, he insists the ports worked for him while he was using it. All of my drivers are up to date, including the drivers from the motherboard website and I don't think I've missed anything. http://www.gigabyte.com/products/pr...spx?pid=5498#dl is the website I used for drivers.Essentially, my two front USB 3.0 ports work, my red USB port in the back works and all of the other blue USB ports in the back work... except for the two yellow ones which apparently serve as a DAC-UP as well. I have absolutely no idea how to get these working and I couldn't seem to find any specific DAC-UP drivers on their site. If it matters, I don't care about the DAC functionality, I just want the USB functionality.I've tried multiple devices, I've tried reinstalling Windows and I've even tried using various different USB devices to no avail. This includes a mouse, keyboard, powered external HDD and non powered external HDD.The power doesn't work from the drives and the low-powered devices aren't registered. Is it possible this is something wrong in the BIOS? http://i.imgur.com/aKjBoEX.jpg is a picture of my Device Manager if it helps - 6 devices show under USB controllers, presumably the 6 USB ports (including the front 2) that do work.