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Just.Oblivious

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  • Content Count

    179
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About Just.Oblivious

  • Title
    Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Netherlands
  • Interests
    Computers, Networking

System

  • CPU
    Intel Core i5 6600K
  • Motherboard
    Gigabyte GA-Z170N-WIFI
  • RAM
    Corsair Vengeance LPX (2x8GB)
  • GPU
    EVGA GTX 1060 SC 6GB
  • Case
    Cooler Master Elite 110 (ITX Cube case)
  • Storage
    2x 250GB SSD (+ network storage)
  • PSU
    Seasonic M12II Evo 520W
  • Display(s)
    Dell U2515H (25" 1440p)
  • Cooling
    Corsair Hydro H55
  • Keyboard
    CM Storm Rapid-I (Brown switches)
  • Mouse
    Logitech
  • Sound
    80's Onkyo stereo system with Fisher speakers
  • Operating System
    Windows 10, Debian 8, Kali Linux

Recent Profile Visitors

666 profile views
  1. Both interfaces have enough bandwidth for gigabit Ethernet. It's going to come down to the individual chipset for things like latency, featureset and driver support. If you need a 10 Gbps dongle, then TB3 is going to be the only (rather expensive) option. For general use I'd just get the cheapest possible one...
  2. Recovering from a bad flash is going to require some tinkering: https://www.stevejenkins.com/blog/2014/01/how-to-unbrick-a-netgear-wndr3400-n600-router-after-a-bad-dd-wrt-flash/ On the bright side, you don't have to do any soldering to recover this one.
  3. There is always the chance that tinkering with firmware 'bricks' a device, though in reality I've only seen it happen once (out of the ~100 firmware flashes that I've done on consumer routers). And even if it does happen, the router can usually be recovered through a serial console (which may required opening the device and soldering some wires onto the board). If the router powers on and the web UI is accessible, you can usually revert back to the original firmware by flashing the firmware file provided by the manufacturer. But keep in mind that when a product requires warranty repairs it's often broken beyond this point, making it very hard (or even impossible) to revert the firmware before shipping it in. Whether or not tinkering with firmware voids the warranty of a product depends on local laws and regulations.
  4. Another option is to ditch the idea of a x86 pc-based router. If you separate the VPN load from the routing/firewall tasks you can get by with a good low-power ethernet+SFP router (like the Ubiquiti EdgeRouter 4). Just run the VPN client on the desktop (or in the future on a VM) and you're good. BTW you absolutely don't need server-grade hardware for running a home-router, just keep the ISP router as a cold spare in case something fails... The only case where I would consider server hardware (and ECC memory) at home is for a storage server. If your stuff is mission critical you should always setup two boxes with automatic failover, don't forget a UPS-system with a generator out back and a second internet line, you know, just in case your cat blog goes offline
  5. What type of cable is it that you get from them? There are a few dozen flavors of optical fiber cable, the SFP module you select has to be compatible with the technology used by your ISP. Not if you do it properly... Virtualizing routers, firewalls and security appliances is common practice in big enterprises. Breaking out of a virtual machine is a few hundred times more difficult than pwning a cheap-ass home router, believe me. Of course you should use a proper hypervisor and segment the interfaces, but that's a given with virtualization. Another solution is to get a hardware firewall with your virtual routing appliance behind it. As far as VPN performance goes, 100 Mbps should be doable with something like a Celeron-based Intel NUC.
  6. It all depends on how your ISP delivers its service. Does the fiber line go directly from the wall into the router, or does it go through a media converter with ethernet output first? VPN, as in connecting to a public VPN provider? 99% of the public VPN providers use OpenVPN, which uses a hell of a lot of CPU resources. Pushing 200+ Mbps over OpenVPN is a challenge (think Core i3/i5 server with AES-NI support and no other services running). If you want VPN just for making remote connections to your home network you can use a less resource-intensive protocol like L2TP/IPSEC. If you already have a server running (or if you plan to get a home server) you should consider building a virtual router, that way you can share resources and save power.
  7. High level overview of my home infrastructure: It's pretty basic in terms of actual networking. Just a few VLANs, some routes, two IPv6 networks, two VPN tunnels and a load of firewall rules. The unRAID box runs a virtual router that tunnels traffic over a NordVPN link (primarily used for downloading), it's way faster than trying to run OpenVPN on an (already busy) EdgeRouter. I also have a cloud-hosted VPS for out-of-band management from other networks (that are often IPv4 only), it runs a dedicated IPSEC tunnel over IPv6 to my internal management-host. Unfortunately my ISP doesn't provide the credentials for their VOIP platform, so I have to use their stupid all-in-one router/VOIP ATA with another ATA right after it to get a usable VOIP line. Migrating the landline to a cloud VOIP provider is on the roadmap for Q4 2018.
  8. I use my (stock) Anet A8 primarily for printing small spare parts. Recently I printed seat bushings, panel clips, bulb holders and other small things for a BMW Z3 that I'm restoring. My main filament is PETG, it's durable yet flexible enough for making spring-fit assemblies (like panel clips or a snap-fit lid for an enclosure). Almost all things that I print are a custom design (simply because most parts that I need have never been designed/published before). Tape is my preferred bed material. I'm not too concerned about surface finish or print quality, if the part comes out correctly and fits right I'm happy.
  9. Samba's implementation of SMB3 multichannel is still very experimental. Making it work with non-Linux clients requires a little extra configuration : Samba has to report interface speeds and some capabilities to the client. On Linux, Samba can auto-detect the speed of an interface. But to support other platforms, and in order to be able to manually override the detected values, the "interfaces" smb.conf option has been given an extended syntax, by which an interface specification can additionally carry speed and capability information. The extended syntax looks like this for setting the speed to 1 gigabit per second: interfaces = 192.168.1.42;speed=1000000000 https://www.samba.org/samba/history/samba-4.4.0.html (under "EXPERIMENTAL FEATURES")
  10. While good advice, depending on the router in use this setup might not be as secure as first thought. If the router is just a "dumb" (VLAN unaware) consumer router there is still a possibility for leakage to occur. Granted, you'd have to be a skilled attacker in order to successfully "jump the gap". The "best practice" way of separating two networks is by running different subnets on different VLANs, with a VLAN aware router-firewall combo in place to control the traffic going in and out of each network. Another benefit of this approach is the ability to easily apply bandwidth limiting and QoS-rules to different parts of the network. My idea looks something like this: It can also be done without the use of VLAN's or a managed switch (as long as the router has more than one individually addressable LAN interface):
  11. So you're essentially running a NAT-router behind another NAT-router? That's not ideal. If you're in control of the main router I suggest setting up two isolated and firewalled subnets for you and your neighbor.
  12. Give SyncbackPro a try. Make sure to download the pro version trial, the free version lacks some features. SyncbackPro has the ability to address a drive by serial number (or by drive label). You can also set a trigger that launches the backup task as soon as a particular drive gets inserted (or even by drive slot if I remember correctly). The UI isn't exactly user friendly, but it's a very solid tool once you get the hang of it.
  13. Never trust a failed drive, that's straight up data suicide. It'd be interesting to see the SMART (self test) attributes, a program like GSmartControl can pull that info up for you: (this is for my old SSD: same idea, different parameters)
  14. Search 3D Hubs for a service near you that can print a part of this size in the material that you want. Exporting it as a .STL file should be enough. The printing service will check if this model can be printed on their machine, you don't have to worry about slicer settings or anything. Just make sure that you verify all the important dimensions before sending it out.
  15. Yeah, that's a router behind router or "double NAT" setup. That's not what you want. Best is to configure the second router as a wireless access point. This puts all devices in the same network, with the second "router" in place to handle switching and wireless.
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