Jon-Slow

Just change the "CPU Core Ratio" option from "sync all cores" to the other option that says manual or individual or something like that. Then it will let you adjust each core manually. But why are you forced to keep Multi Core Enhancement off? There is nothing stopping you from turning it off. But also, I don't really see you driving much value out of overclocking that one core to 5ghz even if you have just bought a much better GPU. You'll just be driving an old CPU a little hotter.

I would probably ask this question in a community of AI/ML folks that actually do the work you do. They might be able to better guide you towards what parts would be the best use for your money. I wouldn't recommend a prebuilt, and you might not need a 14900KF for what specific purpose you want to use it for. Your usecase might benefit from a cheap processor next to 2 4090s instead, or 2 used 3090s for cheaper. You should probably seek guidance from the type of experts that do exactly what you do, that would probably be a lot more helpful.

You need to run your benchmark using CrystalDiskMark and then compare it to online results from other people. And then if you're doing specially bad you can post your results.

Seems like a regular AM5 and X3D compatibility issue that happens often. What is your RAM latancy? Your solution might just be trying different RAM siting combos, trying with one stick, updating your BIOS, trying the RAMs in another PC, trying other RAMs in this PC. If it can work with a different spare RAM stick but not any of these ones then you might have to buy another kit that could work with your AM5 CPU. But other than that I think the 7800X3D is needlessly overkill with a 4070, and I would pair a 7800X3D with faster than 5600MTs RAMs as well.

Common wisdom is that if your PSU is making a noise, you should not ignore it. It's best to get it resolved and since you're not supposed to open a PSU, that means sending it for warranty. Otherwise it's your choice if you'd want to ignore the noise.

you mean you woke up to an "off" PC that's been off for 6 hours and it was making that noise? Do you mean it was shutdown or was in sleep mode? Regardless, you should try to see if the fan is turning when the noise is being made. I'm still putting it on the fan. BUT, all of that aside. There is nothing you can do since opening a PSU is a big no no. You just have to send it back for warranty and they will probably just replace it for you without questions. Although you might need to buy a new PSU in the meantime to keep your PC running.

This doesn't sound like coilwhine. It sounds like your PSU's fan is faulty. I don't know about this, it might just be a coincident. But you can inspect the PSU more closely to see if it's the main fan. Since you've said it goes on after your turn it off, it could still be the fan trying to cool the PSU for a couple of seconds after shuting down. Might need to send it for warranty in that case.

This was my dilemma as well, but there is no way to not put a hole in the wall and expect it to support a monitor's weight properly. I assume your desk isn't actually 5.5" but has one of those piece on the back that spans that long preventing you from using a desk mount. This was also my problem as well at a time. Ended up setting the more expensive desk aside and buying a simple but sturdy IKEA desk and using unconventional means to make it be as firm and unmoving as a more expensive desk. The desk is fairly cheap but has a good amount of depth and width. Maybe you can consider the same.

Well you could try what I did if the problem is solely caused by the fans and not the coilwine. If your problem is also with coilwhine then zipting fans to it wont solve the issue. GPU Fans also going over 50% is not practical at all because anything spinning at 3000RPM is going to be heard loudly. Ideally you'd want your fan curves be set in a way to avoid the fans going high while gaming. With the Zotach, eventho the original fans had a rattling noise, it would still cool the card by 50% fan speed under any gaming scenario. The 7900XTX was almost twice as audible even without rattle at 50%. Sticking 12cm or 14cm fans to your GPU is not that hard as long as you're used to opening and closing hardware, and you would need a GPU fan adapter. But you have to have some basic experience opening and fiddling with hardware in general. The hard part would be sticking the fans on it. I used zipties because it's cheap. Some people would 3Dprint fancy brackets, some would buy something online. I'm not worried about the warranty since if anything happens I'll put the shroud and the original fans back on it and I really don't think they would reject me since the heatsink was never removed.( although the possibility is always there)

I had one of the more expensive 7900XTX in my personal rig after release for a couple of month, and that one was also the loudest thing I have had in my PC. both fan noise and coil whine. My PC is almost fully silent specially on idle so it was really bothering me as well. But I ended up switching from it for several reasons ( mainly FSR sucking and high power draw on idle and other shortcomings). Today I have a Zotach 4080, no coilwhine but I was still uncomfortable with the Zotach fans because they rattled ( Zotach is cheap garbage it seems) and I didn't want to send it for warranty and wait like you. Because it could take well over 2 weeks and up to 2 months. So what I did was, I removed the shroud and the fans, and ziptied 2 Arctic p14 fans that I had around here to the heatsink. Problem all solved, and since the card has no audible coilwine either, I'm very happy.

PLEX for watching movies PC to TV over home network. PowerDVD if "I have" to watch something sourced from my PC over HDMI VLC for looking at unimportant video files from work and such but never movies and shows.

@johnt Hi, thanks for the reply. I already do have a fiber optic HDMI 2.1 going all the way from my PC room to my bedroom and could potentially use that to even connect directly to the AVR. I could also use an HDMI 2.1 cable to get audio out of my TV into the AVR. So I understand the limitations of optical audio, but my main concern right now is if input delay or audio delay would be a concern with eARC specifically. If even if at the end of the day some games do and some don't support a 5.1 channel, I wouldn't mind switching back to 2.1 for games that don't. But would rather have the system in place. @cmndr So do you mean that any 5.1 setup will have delay regardless of if it is eARC or other methods? Because what I've heard about eARC is that it specifically has the delay. Well I've heard conflicting reports. So I've heard that there could be noticeable latency with eARC, so much so that lipsync would be an issue. After doing long hours of looking into it, I'm no closer to finding a definitive answer. So looking to find people that do this and have experience with it to confirm what audio latancy they get using eARC from TV to AVR I saw a video from HDTVtest on youtube saying the HDMI 2.1 output from AVR to TV doesn' have latancy( which is not exactly what I'm looking for becuase I'm trying to feed audio from TV to AVR), but at the end of it he says something like "this isn't conclusive and he needs better equipment to test".

I've been thinking of getting some speakers for my TV, maybe 5.1, ( movies and games) but I didn't know that apparently I have to buy an AVR. There is so much conflicting information about everything and I'm very confused. Seems like the audio community that I've asked questions from outside of here are not gamers and so I haven't been able to get conclusive answers. I don't want to pass my video signal through an AVR, the video part of an AVR is useless to me because I'm primarily scared of adding input delay and want my picture to go directly from my PC/PS5 to my TV, and secondly AVRs with proper HDMI 2.1 are so much more expensive. I thought I could get the audio out of my TV through the eARC output and feed it to the AVR. But it seems like that would add delay to the audio. Or maybe not? I'm very confused because I've heard some say it will and some say it wont. I can't be spending lots of money on an AVR and speakers only to findout that games wont have synced audio. I could alternatively, get audio from the optical audio output from my TV and feed it to the AVR, but then I'm told not to do that because the audio would be lossy if I have more than 2 speakers. So it seems like option 1 is to go buy a super expensive AVR with HDMI 2.1 support not knowing if it will add input delay to games, or to use eARC to either feed it to the AVR directly or to add an eARC audio extractor device in between eARC output and AVR( if the AVR doesn't have an eARC port) Is there anyone here using a 5.1 system to play games as well as to watch movies? ( Also I thought maybe I could use the eARC extractor with a used amplifier that would power the speakers and send signal to them, but I'm told that's also not possible. As you can see I'm not an audio person.

Would this be better than anything else I'm seeing in the same price range of $400? I can see different variations of Dolby Atmos soundbars from Sony, Hisense, SonicGear,... Some are just a Soundbar with a sub that say 5.1.2 ch, some are a soundsbar with a sub and 2 extra speakers that I assume are to be placed behind me? Some don't say atmos but look decent. Are these all to be avoided?

I basically know nothing about audio. I have an LG C2 in mybedroom, I play games on it and watch movies. I want something that's better than the TV's own speakers. But I'm also not looking to break the bank. I like those home theater setups with sound coming from different directions, but I'm not sure if my budget even fits it. I'm looking to spend no more then 400-500 bucks. At least I want a better than TV speaker experience that is worth spending money on. If the solution is going to sound the same as my C2, then I wouldn't want it. I've seen dual channel soundbars that cost $100, I've seen Dolby Atmos soundbars that cost $500, I've seen setups with sony soundbar and subwoofer front and 2 tall speakers back for less than $500. Should I consider this last one over the JBL atmos soundbar? Is the atmos even worth it? Would I even be able to take advantage of the atmos feature often? Would it even work in my regular bedroom? I've also seen soundbars that come with subwoffers, are those better than just the atmos soundbar? Are those tall speakers better than small speakers? As you can see, I know nothing and need help just buying the best thing for $400 with room for wiggle if it's really worth it. Any and all suggestions are welcomed and thanks.