kreechrr

I have both a delidded 8700k and delidded 8086k. The 8700k was only tested on air cooling, specifically a noctua u12s but an ippc 3000rpm fan attached. It refused to boot at 5.2 for anything. my 8086k, however, acted similarly in preliminary testing before the delid, but has since run solid 5.2GHz at 1.41v -2 AVX offset, 47x cache OC. I currently run it at 1.36v for a 5.1GHz OC (still -2AVX but now 46x cache) under a corsair H115i Pro

ryzen memory overclocking has come a LONG way since the initial ryzen 1000's launch. I've heard AMD was more involved in optimizing the tracing for memory for each vendor that's releasing 400 series mobos. So, from what the consensus of the internet seems to be currently, 400 series motherboards provide (have not verified myself) an easier time hitting higher memory speeds. The zen arcitecture does (somewhat) scale with higher memory clocks, with most enthusiasts settling at the 3000-3200MHz range. I CAN offer the knowledge that spending money on highly binned, high clocked DDR4 won't add much performance over any standard 3200 MHz 2x8GB kit. (I have a 4133MHz Team kit of RAM that I was hoping might ease achieving higher mem clocks... but then my IMC was the bottleneck.) Some other things to consider: Timings are (in my opinion) starting to venture towards "baller" types of enthusiasts at this point. DDR4 is just too expensive to worry too much over 3200MHz 16-18-18-36 1.35v vs. 3200MHz 14-14-14-34 1.35v Both run at the same speed, but especially in ryzen systems with higher end GPU's, those timings START to make some noticeable difference. "noticeable" could be anything from 5-10 fps in one game. but another game might do better with, say, 3333MHz 16-18-18-36 1.35v kits than 3200MHz 14-14-14-34 1.35v. That has more to do with the engine/specific game running. overall, I see no reason 90% of users wouldn't be satisfied with 3200MHz 16-18-18-36 DDR4.

Like, $70-$80 USD? The pair I got didn’t even seem used at all... “like new”.

I really like my m40x’s. Refurbed on Amazon!

the Gaming-5 and Gaming-k7 had the same VRM layout.. weird that GB wouldn't opt for a third time go with their k5..?

I liked my K7 before it bricked itself. k5 is essentially the same? I have heard MSI's ryzen VRM's are less than ideal, but it hasnt seemed to limit anyone I've seen use an MSI mobo.. Asus has some decent entry x370 options?

I ask to see if it’s possible it’s a lost compressed MP3 file converted to flac or a genuine flac file?

Where/how was the flac file obtained?

I thought it was a USB2 header?

this is true.

i haven't cut or boosted anything above 3dB and am happy with my results/new knowledge.. hahah

To tighten up the low end (slightly muddy) and to cut some of the piercing highs. I've been messing with PEACE with the EqualizerAPO for a few hours now. Getting close to a nice and balanced enhancement of my cans. It isn't too suppressive to my ear to make me regret this decision.

well

or perhaps this one?

Honestly, same. I've had audiophile equipment for some time, but only just getting around to really tinkering with it.

My advice: enjoy the new 1080!!

I haven't used one personally, but that Audigy RX was what I almost picked for the dual 3.5mm mic inputs in it. And I've heard to minimize possible static/noise, install the sound card as far from other components as possible (further from CPU&GPU the better) while still connecting it on the motherboard. (Obviously)

Or the Creative SB Audigy RX. Has 2 mic inputs. I have a schiit stack non uber driving my DT990 Premiums 600Ohms very well. It's a decent investment if you like audio/music.

Blue Line is Frequency response graph for DT 990 600 ohms

anyone with a DT 990 600Ohms (preferably the 990 Premiums) have any good advice for a newb to tune his EQ for his cans? powered by a non-uber Schiit stack.

Really looking to enjoy higher fidelity music, and expand my headphone collection. Currently have a pair of ATH-M40X's for daily use, and my Schiit Stack drives my DT 990 Premium 600Ohm. I like the slightly better bass punch in my M40X's, but want to maintain clarity and an open sound stage I get a bit of from my DT 990 Premiums. Currently looking at either the Oppo PM3 or HD650 by Sennheiser. But if it's a better investment, I may try to spring for HD700's or Beyerdynamic DT 1770 Pro's at the ~$500 price point. Really hoping for $400 recommendations though. Also heard mixed (still mostly positive things) about Master & Dynamic MH40's and wasn't really looking at those without strong enough recommendations.

Been trying to decide between the $60 Creative Sound Blaster Audigy RX and a $60 refurbed Asus Xonar DX for my ATH-M40X's that get popping and noise from my onboard solution. Also, I've heard to place the sound card as far from the CPU/Rear-IO for optimal isolation... y/n?

Just adding that I really enjoy my DT 990 Premium's! I got the 600 Ohms version..

My bad. I was very distracted typing the original question. The ATH-M40X would be for motherboard audio with main use for gaming and music. Just wondering if they're good. I have a separate dac and amp I use a different pair of headphones with. Mostly for music listening and occasional production. They're for high definition audio but they are a little weak on the bass. I really like the sound clarity, but wish the bass in the second pair of headphones had just a little more punch. Just unsure what if the Beyerdynamic DT 880's are basically the Beyerdynamic DT 990's with slightly more bass without compromising mids/highs. This was more open to recommendations. Thanks for reply despite my question not making sense!

I've heard that onboard audio has come a long way. Atleast with most Flagship mobos onboard solutions.. 80Ohms might be pushing it but from what I've seen it isn't necessarily out of the question? (If anyone knows otherwise, feel free to correct me). Of course I'm talking about the most recent flagship motherboards (z170, z270, x370 and x99) as they're the only ones I've worked with other than the 990FX line of mobos. Definitely look up your current mobos codec if it has an amp. My bet is if it has an amp in it it's probably fine without an extra USB.