djmoney

I broke down and bought a pre built (please don't take my geek card). I just didn't have the time to find a Video Card at a reasonable price. I ended up getting an EK Fluid Gaming Vanquish 250. This is first System I have had with Addressable RGB. That became a thing after I build my last machine. I waited a long time and was too excited to play with when I got so I didn't really open it up and look at the wiring. Just filled it with water and go to gaming. The Asus Amoury Crate / Aura Sync sees the Fans, CPU block, GPU block, and The Distro Block as a single RGB Strip. Since this stuff is the aluminum fluid gaming items they don't sell it separately but going off of the other stuff they sell I am assuming these are daisy chained or going to a splitter of sort. If I wanted to control these items separately Is my only option a controller with multiple headers? The MOBO has only one ARGB header. (ASUS Prime X570 Pro)

I broke down and purchased a pre built. I just couldn't wait for a GPU any more. Due to this I will have an extra 1TB NVME dive to add to my new machine. I will have the following 1tb Samsung 970 Evo Plus (NVME) 1tb WD Back SN750 (NVME) 2tb Seagate Barracuda (HDD) MB - ASUS Prime X570 Pro Should I Raid 0 the NVME drive for a boot drive, Use one of the NVME as a Cache Drive for the Hard drive or just let them all be stand alone? Other important info, these drives will only be used for programs and Games. Data that can be re downloaded. All of my personal data is stored on a NAS and backed up to the cloud.

Thanks everyone for the advice. I was thinking Ryzen 5600X and 3070 were starting points for me. Just trying to decide if going up is worth it. When I build my current system, basically bough top available (within reason) 6700K and 1080 ti obviously the 1080ti came after the initial build. Now there is so much performance but at more cost. The top of the consumer was pushed up where you would have had to go to enthusiast before. 20 series seemed expensive for not a lot of gain. this is why I skipped that gen. Im not paying scalper prices or standing in line for hours in the cold to get parts Just trying to plan out now.

How long are we expecting the 3070 to last as a high performing card.

Budget (including currency): $1000 flexible Country: USA Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: sightseeing Games (NOT FPS), Fusion 360, Prusaslicer, Chitobox, Cura, Hand break, Current system - 6700K, 32gb (2X16) 3200mhz Corsair Ram, 1080ti, 1tb NVME SSD, Predator X34 3440X1440 120hz Gsync Monitor Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): I am Looking to build a new machine early next year when the Video cards become available. I use the machine for a few things Gaming, 3D modeling, and 3D printing. I do video transcoding but not often so leaving it overnight is not an issue. I am really feeling the CPU as a bottle neck these days. Really I am looking for a CPU & GPU. I am leaning towards 30 series & Ryzen but not sure how high I need to go in the stack. Mainly b/c of my Gsync monitor that is relatively new. the target Resolution and FPS is 3440X1440 120hz I am also looking for case Ideas, Wanting a smaller form factor. This will be an all NVME single GPU build doesn't really need to be an ITX but can be. What I plan on reusings: Ram, Monitor, SSD Case, CPU, GPU, Mobo, PSU (I can figure out the MOBO and PSU these may depend on the case)

I am in the same boat. I am looking to upgrade to the same style of monitor. For me I have narrowed it down to the Predator X34P and the Dell Alienware AW3418DW. I was not considering the Alienware because of the looks but the local Microcenter has it on Sale for $750 USD. I won't buy Asus products anymore b/c of a bad customer service experience I had. I would like to know what others would consider or if there is something new coming. It seems like there are the new 35" that will do 200hz but they all seem to start at $2000 USD. These are out of my price range or about a $1000 USD +- $200.

TLDR; I am looking for a Mechanical Keyboard with Cherry MX Brown Switches that is also Bluetooth. Nice to have Backlit, and switchable Bluetooth. Before the PCM jumps on me this is for my office work not my Gaming. Already got a RGB Corsair K70 with brown switches on the battle station. I am trying to find something that will the same. Switching from the Mech to the membrane keyboards is messing with me. I must have Cherry MX Brown. I want the keystroke to be same. I want a full keyboard as well as I use the Numpad a lot. I work in an office environment where we don't have assigned desks I have to put my keyboard and mouse in a locker or take it home with me everyday. So having one less wire or thing to manage would be nice. Also Having the switchable BT would be nice to be able to multitask with my Ipad pro. Looking for recommendations. If I can't find it I will probably just get a single color K70.

After having to get a new motherboard and AIO I decided I would try my hand at over clocking again. Running a 6700K on an MSI Z270 M7 board with a H100i v2. Its a long story why I am running a 6700K on a Z270 board. Here is my Issue Cpu - Z is not showing the core voltage that I set in the UEFI BIOS. its show almost too low to be stable. Highest stable I have gotten XMP on 3200mhz Corsair 16 X 2 kit Multiplier = 46 Bclk = 102 Core Voltage 1.4 (I Know this is high) Power management feature is off <- don't remember the exact name This all adds out to be 4693 MHZ almost 4.7ghz OC @ ~80c running real bench stress test for 15mins. The Odd thing is CPUZ is showing 1.168V that is a big difference from 1.4v. I know the voltage is going up when i increase it in the Bios. As I can see temps go up and more stability.

I think I am just going to eBay the controller boxes. they are as low as a $4 shipped from the US.

The only reason I don't want to use a micro controller is that they tend to cost more than the boxes on amazon. I barely know how to code. I mean I can google and follow direction. I guess I am open to Ideas. I basically want to be able to make this thing for less than $5. I have the LEDs, Plastics, bulk wire, and ac adapters.

I understand what PWM is. What I am trying to do I make this controller for less than one of those control box from amazon. https://www.amazon.com/eTopxizu-44Key-Remote-Controller-Light/dp/B004IJFAMW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1506652054&sr=8-3&keywords=5050%2Bled%2Bcontroller&th=1

Is it possible to do that with out a micro controller?

Can anyone help with wiring some 5050 LEDs? I want to take some bulk 5050 RGB LEDs and wire them to potentiometers and manualy control the RGB values of the strips. I want to make inexpensive 3d Printed LED Lamps. This was my thoughts. Is there anything else I need?

I run a Monoprice Maker select v2.1 and I love it but I find a good amount of the time is spent tinkering with it. Tweaking setting building or buying upgrades. Expect that with anything that cost less than $500. One that I am interest in next is the CR10 it has a huge build volume if your models need to be big that is one that is worth saving for and getting. I know its next on my list. Wait for black Friday, The monoprice printers go one ridiculous sale both monoprice.com and Amazon. The maker mini will be less than 200. That one has a huge community to help with. Filament I run Inland stuff from Microcenter. It starts at $15 a Kg. If you have one of them close like me it works pretty well but fillament is one of thoes things you can always spent a lot on. What ever printer you get find a community. I found one on facebook for my maker select. Find out the weakness of the printer and the must upgrades. A lot of printers dont have a mosfet for the heating elements and wire them directly to the board. This can be a fire hazard or at least can burn out the board. happened to me.

Thanks guys. I found some others too.