Katze

My computer keeps failing trying to update: 2023-11 Cumulative Update Preview for Windows 11 Version 22H2 for x64-based Systems (KB5032288) I have tried: sfc /scan now (It just fails) Troubleshooting windows update Restarting the update service Trying the windows 11 installation assistant (fails) Trying to install from the Microsoft Update Catalog (fails) Reset Windows Update Component with Wufix.bat

Interesting theory, I'll do some testing thank you.

I have installed Ubuntu on a mini PC to use as a Plex server and I have set up remote desktop so I can control it from my windows PC. When I have the server sitting on my desk plugged into my monitor, I can switch to my PC and connect to it no problems. But as soon as I move it to the spot it's going to live, remote desktop flashes when I try and connect and closes. It is set to login on start up.

I have created a passkey for my android phone and Windows PC and tied them to my google account, but it doesn't give me the option to sign in using them. It only lets me "Tap YES" or my 2fa code.

So my brother and I have the same Piano, a Yamaha P-35. One of the power supplies was presumed lost, but I just found one that looks like it matches the volts and amps. I think it will be fine, but I'm not sure about the +12v on the Powermaster and wanted to get a sanity check xD Original Yamaha adapter: The one I found:

I just noticed this too and came here to see what people are saying...

If that is the case, is that something they would need to configure on their end?

So I originally followed this guide: http://test-support.netcommwireless.com/faq/nf10wv-bridge-mode-setup-guide But wasn't able to get my modem working on bridge mode, so I called my ISP and they configured it as the following https://imgur.com/a/OD1VkaD Is this correct? The internet is working but Plex is still complaining about a double NAT and Port Forwarding isn't working. We are using Google Nest Wifi. Wifi point works and connects, but goes offline sometimes.

My mouse has been doing this for a while, but lifting the buttons and blowing has always fixed it for a decent length of time, however it has gotten to the point where one of the clicks will let go at some point while being held down 1/3 times. The mouse is out of warrenty because this wasn't an issue during, and I'm just considering buying a new one if I can't fix it.

After rebooting the system it's still on Integrated graphics. I have tried purging the drivers and reinstalling via terminal and I even tried downloading the .run driver from nvidia but it takes ages and hangs 70% into loading. Pop OS 20.04.40 (New install, using nvidia iso) Acer Aspire V5-571PG https://www.laptopdirect.co.za/info-sheet.php?product=71236 Also, the nvidia server is just a blank window. And I get this when using the command: ~$ nvidia-smi NVIDIA-SMI has failed because it couldn't communicate with the NVIDIA driver. Make sure that the latest NVIDIA driver is installed and running.

Yeah I've noticed that too, if you turn off Desktop Recording in Privacy, it won't record out of games, but it also doesn't seem to record border-less windowed games...

So for the time I've had a corsair commander I've had... issues, mostly to do with fans acting strangely. My newest issue after connecting a 5th fan on the top, is the new fan will not spin, yet corsair commander reports an RPM of something stupid like 30,000... When I set the RPM to zero, then back to a normal setting, I see the fan twitch for a moment before not moving. The fan works, it is a Noctua NF-F12. Image:

No worries, thanks so much. Do you guys sell the single 24-pin cable by itself, or only in a pack? If not I can just get an extension. Thanks again.

@CableMod Yeah I realized, was my bad. However, is it safe to use the other cables? and not the 24 pin?

Yeah I thought as much, I'll ask cablemod I guess. In the meantime, guess I'm running my old cables allover again... Thanks for the help.

... It literally says RMx / RM in their compatability list... All the other cables fit, is it safe to use the other cables and just leave the 24 pin for now?

So I ordered a full cablemod kit to replace my PSU cables. I made sure to check to see if it was compatable and even says so on the cablemod website. My PSU is a Corsair RM750x The cable kit I ordered was: And on cable mods comparability list: https://cablemod.com/compatibility/ The 24 pin has 4 less pins ok the PSU side and won't fit. Am I missing something?

Yeah I seen a post about this too, I've also tried running my second monitor off onboard graphics. It will still turn on and off. EDIT: May have found the issue, I noticed the core clock was all over the place when Firefox was open, I disabled Hardware acceleration and now the clock is mostly sitting at 210, with the occasional spike. GPU temp holding for now.

Oh sorry, mean to post the card: Gigabyte GeForce RTX 3070 Gaming OC 8GB Running munti monitors. And my case is a Define R6, HDD cages removed with two front 140mm fans. Whatever, heres a pic:

So I had a similar issue before but this time its different, my card has a zero RPM mode but wont actually stay off. My card will slowly rise to 51 degrees then turn on the fans, like it did with my original issue, but now when it does, the fans "pulse" on and off instead of just saying on for a few seconds. Here is a graph in Afterburner. The fan RPM spikes constantly, and I can hear my graphics card audibly "revving"

Fixed it, I ran DDU and removed and reinstalled my graphics drivers, now running at 200mhz at idle.

Yeah I found someone on another forum who had the same issue, they fixed it by DDU'ing their drivers, I'll try that and see if it helps.

What is the idle clock meant to be, because it's at 1815 just on the desktop.

Yeah but isn't it mean to not need to use the fans at idle?