Multiversal
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Everything posted by Multiversal
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Hi, I've Oppo Enco X2 and both it's LDAC and LHDC codecs don't work with my S21 FE. When I go into BT codec settings in developer options, the LDAC doesn't turn on. What could be the reason and how to enable it?
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So, since I installed this custom ROM called crDroid, my Gboard is behaving weirdly as the clipboard copy detection is too slow, totally unusable feature it has become rn. I don't plan on switching my ROM as I already played with a couple ROMS before and finally got the one that fits my needs the most. So, if there's any workaround like modifying some GBoard config file or something which can rectify this problem by changing just a few lines of the code then please tell me. gboard.mp4
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Stable build didn't have this issue. All calls were working fine.
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So the other party is unable to hear me on calls made on pc using Microsoft Phone Link. All other calls like on Telegram, WhatsApp and Signal for Desktop work just fine. I also performed the microphone volume test in sound settings and it is resulting in only like 2-3% of the total volume even after shouting into it! Kindly help as I've already queued for unenrollment. Device - HP Pavillion Gaming 15-ec2145AX All drivers up to date. Insider Build - 22H2 .
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Ok, can I do it via my GPON FTTH router?
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Using the good ol' ethernet cable to connect pc to my new laptop and access my pc files. I gave all the network and sharing permissions but still neither of the devices is accessible from the other one. Pls help me setting up.
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(Firstly, sorry if this is the wrong forum) This is so annoying . Everytime I try to backspace my typed emojis, I have to slightly scroll up to bring that bar up. My muscle memory is so frustrated at that rn! Any solutions other than downgrade to a previous version? 863114152_Screenrecorder-2021-07-06-14-01-19-5972.mp4
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So yesterday I cleaned up my PC internals after 3 months. Reinstalled the RAM Stick (slot changed) and GPU. Also the mobo battery was reinserted. Now there's an OS Load error everytime I start my PC. Before this, my ssd health had been hovering at 80% in Hard Disk Sentinel. It's also out of warranty. Your valuable replies are awaited.
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Hi. My mouse’s left switch is broken (pic attached). The switch just came out and won't go in. What switch types can be replaced with the stock ones of this Razer Deathadder 2000 dpi mouse (it came with the Cynosa Pro Bundle 2016 edition)? I don’t want to spend any further than $4 per switch. Please suggest the best recommendations available as of now. I am coming after watching the following video:
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I received the Android 10 update for my Redmi Note 8 Pro two weeks ago and there are a couple bugs and issues as expected. The foremost and most annoying of them being the utterly woeful latency or lipsync of 700+ms! That's not acceptable at all. Most prominent on YT, Twitch and basically every HTML5 embedded videos on any websites as well. But this happens mostly on Bluetooth irrespective of the device I'm using. Wired headphones experience no issue whatsoever. Other than this, media volume controls are not appearing most of the times. Have any of you else experiencing this? Is there a cure without downgrade?
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prolonged shut down PC taking forever to shut down!
Multiversal replied to Multiversal's topic in Troubleshooting
problem solved (for now)...Will report back if it appears again. Thanks a lot mate. -
Happening since quite long (1 yr) now. At times it shuts down as expected otherwise it takes too long for it to happen, the monitor goes to sleep, and the system keeps running waiting for power off. What could be causing it? I changed several versions of Windows before this and I have no malware or badly-behaving apps, no BSODs so far since the latest official MSoft ISO build.
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@Kilrah Also, is this the case while buying those $3 or basically any <$10 keys?
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@Kilrah Could making an upgrade (keeping Drive C:'s data intact) help me with this issue? Otherwise fresh install is the way to go I guess.
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Nope. Uninstalled it completely from the system and restarted. No effect.
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Okay. But I will prefer repairing my taskbar's current status through any regedit tweaks or whatever knowledge you have in that regard. I won't re-install fresh OS just because of a taskbar issue as rest everything is working fine. Can you please guide me through?
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Where should I get it? Why is it so cheap? Is it a key for full-blown Windows 10 Pro? Will my cracked apps (which are working fine now) work perfectly as intended? This isn't the first time I've heard from someone to get a key that cheap but I wanna know all the caveats included in it (if any). So, it was just an account fix prompt as I changed my password few days ago. Here's how my Insider section looks...
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Oh my Lord! Sorry, my bad. I was too occupied by a household chore then. I know man. It's a long story but I've already opted out of Insider Builds but the fact is that my OS never rolled back to the last/latest stable build. What could possibly cause that? My Windows is activated using KMS, could that be an issue causing not to rollback? Also, I was in Slow Ring before I opted out. PS - It's saying the following... ...and I'm checking my Microsoft account right now. Will report back soon...
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It's the good old Net Speed Monitor which has been my most reliable tool to check my internet speed and is used by millions others. It didn't happen before so why now? I don't know what could that possibly mean.
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Windows 10 Pro Version: 2004 Build: 19041.172 Since the past 2 weeks I have seen the taskbar behave very absurdly. Nothing happens when I right / left click any of the following: Taskbar icons (only right click doesn't work) Volume Button (only left click doesn't work) Networks Button (only left click doesn't work) Time & Date Button (only left click doesn't work) Action Center (only left click doesn't work) Though I can right click on the empty space of taskbar to open it's settings. Watch this to see what I mean. I have found no system integrity violations. So, please suggest a solution other than a fresh windows install.
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My SHPs are 32 ohm. So I think I'll def. need an amp for anything over 40 Ohms to hear its full potential.
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I don't think they even remotely approach the same amount of soundstage, details, imaging and wearing comfort of my SHP9500 so no, not this one, unfortunately. I could've gone for closed cans but I wanted to try an open-back as it was only gonna be my first-ever real headphone purchase with my first salary of my first job so there's that.
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Thank You for that good advice. I agree on the fact that "The more sugar you add the sweeter it gets!" I get it that sub 300 USD ones will have a real nice performance in all the departments but they'll also be harder to drive without any amp and I have zero experience with any Amp/DAC and very little knowledge about them. I yesterday discovered Fostex T50RP Mk3 which is a great value banger (retailing for 150 USD on Amazon.com) and has an amazing bass as per experts but again I highly doubt if it's easily drivable without an amp or with a cheap chi-fi portable amp. I bought Philips because they're pretty easy to be driven by my Redmi Note 8 Pro yet still sounding amazing.
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I have Philips SHP9500 but it has basically non-existent sub-bass and anything below 50-55 Hz is unenjoyable (and was almost a deal breaker to me as I'm a basshead) no matter how hard you try to EQ it. Anyway, it's still a perfect choice for general music listening and production, movies and games. So my question to you is: What is the ideal 100-170 USD (7k-15k INR) choice for listening to bass music without any fear of any overwhelming of one set of frequencies over the other yet still maintaining the high fidelity of all the instruments and percussive elements in the track? Framing this question differently, Which headphone(s), within the above-mentioned price bracket, deliver(s) the tightest possible, fast responding, highly resolved, and most accurate bass(not necessarily a thumping one but if that's available too then most welcome) without overemphasizing the rest of the spectrum?
