Atra1n2

They could at least be de-prioritized until they've had previous feedback that has been vetted as good.

Yeah I think email would be a must in this case to limit spam.

Google form sounds reasonable. There are ways I have personally used, to dynamically pre-fill Google forms. This could pre-fill the video URL. It's a simple modification of the form URL. When a video is uploaded, just grab the URL and paste it within the form submission URL. Limit form responses to 1 time per user, with a daily reset of the users' submission count.

@LinusTech Whether it's fair or not, LMG is held to the highest standard among Tech YouTube, because of it's leadership position in the landscape. Occasionally you're going to take one on the chin; but see the silver-lining, in that people expect nothing but excellence in the quality of data coming from LMG, even if you all do some of the most wildly entertaining stuff in tech (all of those jank water-cooling videos, haha). Others, including GN, provide reliable, high quality data; but at LMG's scale, it'll automatically be held to a higher standard than Steve, so it's not going to be easy. GN didn't get where they are in terms of the quality and rigourousness of scientific testing over night. Labs is going to take time, but the viewership needs to see those efforts you've already talked about start becoming more readily apparent in the integrity of the data both spoken by the presenter and displayed on screen in videos. That's not to take away at all from the advancements you all have already made in the breadth of your testing gambit, and the automations designed to pump out more data, quick-lier. Keep on keepin' on LMG!

Hi! I'm a bit of an OBS noob, but I'm looking to stream at 720p, 30fps, 6mbps with an i5-3470 and 8gb of RAM. Weirdly, I need a 4k canvas for reasons, but the stream output will be down-sampled to 720p as I already mentioned. My sources/scenes include some looping video, music, text, audio capture, and elgato cam-link video capture. It's a fairly simple setup, but I just haven't tried streaming it without NVENC hardware encoding and I'm needing to see if the i5-3470 and 8gb RAM is sufficient for h.264 software encoding this stream. I'm really hoping I won't have to get a GPU for this setup. There will be NO other CPU intensive tasks(gaming, etc) running concurrently with OBS. The most that would be running while OBS is streaming is two browser tabs. Thoughts?

Saw this one, might fall back on this one if I can't find one with an SD card slot. Thanks!

Unfortunately, I think I'm going to need 3.5" ? Do you have a name and model? Maybe I can use that to find what I need.

I'm looking for the above: a front panel USB 3 and SD card reader that fits in a 5.25" drive bay and houses a 3.5" internal caddy for an HDD. I'm pretty sure I've saw these before, but couldn't find one that checks all of the boxes now that I actually have use for one. If you know of any, please link below. Thanks!!

The source MKVs use h264. I've been leaving the few h265 MKVs I have as-is, because they're mostly UHD HDR files that I want to preserve at full quality.

I'm looking for the best settings for handbrake. I'm looking to transcode x264 MKV files from MakeMKV. In doing so, I want to preserve all of the original audio tracks and subtitle feeds the MKV file has baked in. The audio tracks include Dolby, DTS-HD 7.1 ch, 5.1 ch, and several others. I also want to maintain fairly true to the original picture, but I want it in an easy to play mp4 container with x264 encoding, but in a significantly reduced file size, and I'm not too worried about encode times. Currently, I have a source 1080p file at 24fps and approx. 40GB in file size, and I'm looking to shrink down to approx 6-12 GB. I've tried selecting all of the audio tracks and using the passthrough option, but some players, notably Windows 10's native player will not play the main audio track, and I seem to be completely lost on subtitles, because they are either permanently burned into the picture with no option to switch them off or they're not there at all. I would appreciate any help or advice!!

You may be also need to re-seat the CPU. I had to do this once when I couldnt get a RAM slot to work at all. After reseating the CPU, it worked. As far as the speed, you always have to set that in the BIOS for whatever speed it is rated for.

@Fortekko I used to have a pair of Turtle Beach wireless headphones with a receiver that plugged into the computer and after changing my WiFi configuration, they got very flaky, lost their range, and had lots of pops, cracks, and static-y sounds. They also operated on the 2.4 gHz band.

Also, within Steam you can set custom game library locations and specify where you want downloaded games to reside.

If your data on your hard drive now can be defragmented down to 500 gb or less, you may be able to clone the data from the HDD to the SSD with a utility like CloneZilla which is its own bootable program. If not, the easiest thing to do may be a clean OS install on the SSD, set it to primary boot device, copy what you want off the HDD onto a secondary device and reformat it to be a data drive to rid the former Windows installation and move back all of your files you backed up and reinstall your apps and games.

I'm pretty sure these are wireless, right? How do they sound wired to the computer, if they have a 3.5mm port? You may have wireless interference between your PC and headset (i.e. WiFi mainly).

Just confirmed, it should go in the 2 black slots. Here's the manual if you need it.

@Acoleman18 Looking at a pic of the board. The ram should go in either the 2 black slots or the 2 white slots.

Depends on your video card. GTX 1050ti and below do not require an extra power cable plugged in, while GTX 1060 and up do. I'm not sure which AMD cards require extra PCIe power.

In terms of compatibility and upgrade-ability the larger ATX cases are better because you can fit traditional size PSUs and full width video cards, but this is an aging platform and there's probably no reason to go past a GTX 1060 or 1070 with these third gen Intel CPUs. Also one important note is that Dell is notorious for non-standard front panel headers (power, reset buttons, HDD LED) on their boards, and sometimes non-standard board configurations that can make it more difficult to install in a traditional ATX or mATX case. Thats the risk you take with the used pre-built market. There are good deals to be had on very capable hardware, you just may not always get a solid upgrade path for years in the future, or the nicest aesthetics.

Similar spec to what I purchased a while back. The only thing you'll have to keep in mind is the smaller form factor PCs don't use traditional ATX power supplies and can only accept half-width video cards. You can get a GTX 1050 ti low profile that will fit in this and NOT require a power supply upgrade. Something like the Gigabyte Geforce GTX 1050 Ti OC Low Profile will work great.

This paired with a GTX 1050 ti, or a PSU and better video card with an SSD would make a great e-sports machine and fine for medium setting Triple A titles.

@Andrizzle you can find fairly cheap pre-built tier 1 branded (hp, dell, acer) office-type PCs on ebay with 3rd generation i5s. I bought a slim form factor HP with an i5-3450, with 8gb ram, 1tb HDD, and no OS. I used the old Win 7 COA sticker to obtain an OS then used Windows 10 upgrade. I added an SSD for the boot drive and a GTX 1050 ti slim form factor so I wouldn't have to upgrade the PSU and came in well under $400. I think the PC was $120, $70 for the SSD and $150 for the GTX 1050 ti. It runs most games at med-high setting at or around 60 fps.

To answer your question, no it shouldn't. It likely just shares an IO lane with one of the SATA controllers or that specific port. Looking at the board specs, it states that it supports PCIe x 4 NVME M.2 SSDs, so you should be all set to get max performance from the M.2 drive.

Does the BIOS display through the video card's display outputs?

Sometimes after you unplug a PC, some residual power can remain. You can usually dissipate by holding the power button for a moment. Some have enough residual power to illuminate the power button before fully dissipating.