PopsicleHustler

Me when buying a nice graphic design monitor :D. Cheap shitty monitors no problem. Literal monitors from the garbage? Absolutly no problems m8. Monitor on the side of the curb that was in the rain. Nah man just takin a shower nice n clean now workin splendid.
 
1000$ eizo. Smashed in box, nr2 dead line, nr3 yellow color broke nr4 fine for years now.
 
Asus proart? Hahahahaha yeah somehow I got the same defective monitor 3 times from 2 different stores. Same sn and all. Was kinda funny but like how even.

i dont think i've ever seen a dead/stuck pixel besides two cases where 'percussion' happened, and was the cause of the issue.
 
but then again, i tend to buy/use business grade stuff. i suppose the GAMING brands just fly closer to the sun.

I've used everything from a Chimea 22" monitor to my AOC AGON 35" UW to cheap shit I bought on Facebook Marketplace.  I've never had a stuck pixel or dead pixel.
 
I don't think they're common at all, I think you're very unlucky in this.

As mentioned above, it should last a few years. In general, I think it's a good practice to change your thermal paste every 24 months.

it will be fine for at least a few years, if not longer.

This is normal, expected behavior. By default modern gpu fans won't spin up until under load until they cross a temperature threshold set by the manufacturer, usually between 50 and 60c. If you wish for them to be on full time, download msi afterburner or fan control (link in my signature) and set a custom curve to turn them on. 

Most modern GPUs have 0 fan mode where fans don't spin until GPU reaches 50-60c

Unless you're doing some wild out of this world overclocking, using a single 8pin is just fine.

Most attachments got re-worked. Some of them works completely different than before. They cut number of vehicles for most maps, added VoIP and a metric ton of additional sliders/UI options for making every possible UI element/Player icon bigger, smaller, less visible, any RGB color you want etc.
 
The biggest change was improvements to mouse aiming. Oh boy, does it feel good now. 

Go ahead, judge me

Until you do 
 
It all depends on her usage. Is she will have 100 chrome tabs open, with crap ton of apps running in the background, then 32 is fine.

I would monitor RAM usage. 8GB for gaming is low by today's standards. 

Looks like a detachable case PWR or RST switch cable 

Hi all. Sometime ago I made a post asking about high end open back headphones and dacs/amps for them. I ended up getting Audio Technica R70X and Fiio K5 Pro.
 
I've been playing with them for a couple of days and ......fuck. That sound is mindblowing. Coming from 50 euro Razer Krakens to 500 euro audio setup is a dream in itself, but I didn't expect this improvement. Songs, gaming, movies, everything sounds insane. Now I truly understand the full extend of people hating on "gaming" headsets and their BS features. This is superior in every way possible.
 
ANYWAY enough of me screaming like a little girl.
 
So I have some questions about properly setting everything up.
 
In windows audio settings I now have 2 channel 16-bit and 24-bit audio. What is the difference between the two, and which one should I use? Also, I guess there is no point selecting anything over 48Khz? Because headphones are not rated for that.
 
Is there anything else that I could use to improve audio? Like doldy atmos for windows and its equalizer?
 
Any tips are welcome.

Now plug them into your phone and listen to Spotify at the gym!

Bit is resolution. 24 is better than 16. Yes 48khz is enough for most content. Most games, yt, music streaming movies etc is 48khz. You cant really hear a difference if you select 96khz over 48.

Hey, congrats!
 
You should use 24-bit; although the difference is literally inaudible, even to audiophiles (because only very very few expensive DACs reach more than 16 real bits of resolution in tests [see audiosciencereview]), technically if you have 24-bit files and play them at 16-bit, you're introducing aliasing to the waveform. This can be removed with dithering (players like foobar2000 have these features), but I think it's not worth the hassle.
 
Yes, in theory not only your headphones are not rated for >24kHz, but also human hearing doesn't go beyond 21kHz; but, if you have files that are saved at 96kHz or 192kHz, when they are forced to be played at 48kHz they get resampled, and resampling (just like before) isn't a perfect algorithm, and will introduce some form of distortion and noise. Again, it's probably not going to be audible or noticeable, but given it's literally a choice-in-the-dropdown away to get rid of, I'd suggest picking the highest sample rate.

The KHZ measurement isn’t the frequency range, but the samples per second. 
The bit measurement is the amount of information in each sample.
Basically the higher those numbers, the more information is in the audio, the more detailed it is.
 
Set the audio detail to whatever the highest your hardware supports, and then listen to something that takes advantage of that.
For example, 16 bit 44.1khz is the base line for CD quality which is conventionally good, 24 bit 48khz is DVD quality which is much better, but higher resolution flacs can get up to 32 bit 768khz
More conventionally found high resolution audio will be 24 bit 96 or 192khz flacs, make sure your hardware is outputting at a sample rate which can equate to that.

Not that simple, these settings should match the source material.

Honestly you can play around with EQ but I am not a fan of that, with good stuff the manufacturer knows what they are doing. EQ is to compensate for bad design. What is your source material? Check if you can tell the difference playing HQ stuff. 
 
Other than that, have fun and listen!

Best to use amp for volume control, otherwise you're also amplifyin the noise from the DAC in your PC which is more noticable on low volume

Short answer: use whatever is more comfortable to you.
Long answer: this is debatable as well. Turning down the volume digitally reduces the total dynamic range of your audio: you only have those 16 / 24 bits; volume at 50% means all your audio data will be scaled (and quantized, with error) in only half of those bits. (This applies to all percentages, obviously.) I'm positive the consensus goes for this being the best option in most cases.
On the other hand, a physical volume control, depending on how the amplifier is designed, could be:
- a potentiometer (variable resistor before amplifying the signal), in which case there could be a slight imbalance between the channels (L / R) and, especially if it's turned way down, it could have a sound to it.
- a direct control to an op-amp or the gain stage of the amp. Depending on the specifics of the amp design, if this is the case, this could be the most technically accurate.
 
From what I see on the audiosciencereview review, your case is the latter, a digital op-amp control.

EqualizerAPO and check out Oratory1990's Harman Curve profiles on reddit.

If its going to your parents I guess it will be used as a desktop for web browsing/movies and general work like word and excel? You can search for used 1050/ti or RX550. This CPU won't handle anything more.

For that budget i'd probably swing towards the Beyerdynamic DT 990 Edition 32Ohm and combine it with a modmic. You won't need an AMP to get good audio from that, it's extremely comfortable and the mic is decent.
 
Or the Beyerdynamic MMX300 if you really want an all-in-one solution.
 
And like @DoctorNick mentioned you can buy spare parts way past after it stops selling in the future. Beyer even offers in-house repairs.