Jump to content

Voxels-Box

Member
  • Posts

    198
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Reputation Activity

  1. Like
    Voxels-Box reacted to neSSa in ZOROG project #CMWS19Finals   
    To look at this beautiful hardware again
     







     
  2. Like
    Voxels-Box got a reaction from W-L in Where to start with diagnosing custom cables that dont work   
    Ive confirmed the correct positions for all the special wires, and all the other voltages check out. I chopped off the A-24 side of the split wire and tidied up the area. The carbon side has a heatshrink bulge but oh well.  Itll be hidden at least.
     
    I tested the open pins on the PSU side with a small scrap wire, and the two open spots read as 0V. I made a new wire to go from A-24 to B-15. It cleared the PSU tester!!  
     
    I also checked the voltages of all five PCIE cables, and they all check out. 
     
    It looks like everything is all green!
     
    Side note, I went to Mod-One to place an order, and found out some bad news from their homepage:
    "Unfortunately, the rental unit next to our shop experienced a severe explosion on Wednesday March, 20th, which has caused significant damage to our unit. Due to the damage, we are unable to process orders at this time"
    Theyre my main source for MDPC-X sleeving materials, but its unclear when theyll open up again.  Do you know any other US resellers?  I cant imagine what a shock that mustve been, I hope they recover OK.
  3. Like
    Voxels-Box reacted to 0x1e in Where to start with diagnosing custom cables that dont work   
    @Voxels-Box
     
    I'm no electrician but I like the structure of this post and the system that was built that I'm willing to help. Even if I look the fool.
     
    Is your 6/8 pin GPU correct on the GPU side?
    You have shown G/12v/12v. It should be 12v/G/12v.
     
    Are you able to test with the stock GPU cables?

    The pin layout seems to be correct, at least on the spreadsheet.
    Have you been able to successfully boot the system with all the stock cables?
  4. Informative
    Voxels-Box reacted to Jurrunio in Where to start with diagnosing custom cables that dont work   
    Then it's a matter of measuring how the wiring on the factory cables are done and whether your custom cables match their sequence then
  5. Like
    Voxels-Box reacted to HuguesP in Project Apocrypha Rebuild log   
    really nice!
  6. Like
    Voxels-Box reacted to GodAtum in 747 flightdeck simulator build   
    A long awaited update, I've fitted my real yokes in which are linked together with hydraulics.
     

  7. Informative
    Voxels-Box reacted to FRSHPRNCFBLR in Where to get a CAD model of the Lian Li PC-O11 Dynamic?   
    The only model out there so far, to my knowledge, is this 2D model provided by Lian Li: 

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/18n7RcV_r-y9X4T7ohF9kJh-TMpcVBQmz/view

    PS: If you don't want to click on a random link, which I understand, you can find it on the product page on Lian Li's website under downloads. 
     
    PPS: Barrow has a distribution plate for the side radiator mount and one for the front of the case.
  8. Like
    Voxels-Box reacted to Zeuligan in [Sponsored] Angl3d Ti - Dual Custom Loop EKWB | ASUS ROG | be quiet! Dark Base Pro 900 | by Zeuligan   
    Finally I'm back to modding after a long absence. 
    Had the time to sort my filming of the shroud and edit it down to 24min (from 3,5h). 

    I hope you enjoy it...more to come soon...
     
     
     
  9. Agree
    Voxels-Box reacted to r4tch3t in Where to get a CAD model of the Lian Li PC-O11 Dynamic?   
    Only thing I can think of is if someone made one themselves and put it on guthub or something. 
    Try guthub lian Li, long shot but if you get the right person they might be able to give you something. 
  10. Like
    Voxels-Box reacted to Fasauceome in USB devices preventing X370 Crosshair VI Hero from powering on   
    this is extremely peculiar, and seems like a familiar problem I had. I'll have to experiment on my own rig, and see if I can get anything useful out of it.
  11. Like
    Voxels-Box reacted to neSSa in Project AXE-R [scratch build]   
    At this year's CMWS2018 competition, the AXE-R project won 1st place in the Scratch build category, It also won the audience's award! Thank you all for support, thank the sponsors for the trust, we promise in future a lot of good projects! Sincerely yours SS PC modding / neSSa
     
    https://www.cmws.global/winners
     


  12. Informative
    Voxels-Box reacted to Ya_Mi in Does the Logitech MX Master 2S Track on a Wacom Intuos Pro?   
    It has laser sensor, It can supposedly track on any surfaces whether its a glass or glossy surface.
    But if its a tablet i don't know how well it would track because laser sensor track so deep into whatever under it.
     
    Just don't get an optical sensor cause it wont track well on that kind of surface
  13. Informative
    Voxels-Box reacted to .Apex. in Does the Logitech MX Master 2S Track on a Wacom Intuos Pro?   
    i think it will track just fine i can put my MX Master on a smooth glass window and its working perfectly.
    yes, a fully clear glass window.
    optical mouses can't do that
  14. Like
    Voxels-Box reacted to Lady Fitzgerald in Roisin Dearg (a Scratch Built "Modular" Case)   
    I didn't feel like tackling any more floor tiles today so I started removing the old speaker system...I should have tackled more floor tiles.  It wasn't especially difficult, just tedious and a bit frustrating, partially because I loved those speakers and hate to see them go.
     
    Here is what a mount looks like after removing the satellite it held.
     

     

     
    Those wood blocks were necessary because the satellites were too narrow to fit inside. Getting those blocks off were a chore; they were well stuck on. I had to remove the clamps to remove the blocks, which was fun since the screws were so long. Thank God for power tools!
     

     
    The regular impact driver (on the bottom) was fine for removing the right side clamp of each mount but the TV was in the way on the left side of the right mount and the closet doors were kinda sorta in the way of the left side clamp of the left mount. To make things easier, I swapped out the heads on my Ryobi multi-tool body. The Ryobi multi-tool comes with a Ryobi body that uses my collection of Ryobi 18v batteries but the multi-tool head is a Ridgid JobMax (top of photo; it still has the scraper blade I was using to remove floor tiles installed).  Ridgid has a large variety of JobMax heads that will fit the Ryobi tool body, including a right angle impact driver (shown installed on the tool body in the middle of the photo; I also have a hammer head and saber saw head). The tool heads can be rotated to four different positions to make using in awkward positions easier. I have a right angle drill but it's not as convenient to use and is rather wimpy for anything other than drilling. The extension at the bottom of the photo was needed to R&R the left mount itself.
     
    It took contact cleaner, a telco knife (those knives are designed to take abuse) and a hammer to "gently" encourage the blocks to part company from the clamps.
     
    Adding insult to injury, the location of the left mount was going to be too close to the closet doors for the large speakers replacing the old ones so I had to remove it so I could move the mounting plate on the extrusions could be moved to the right. Not difficult but tedious. Again, thank God for power tools (I feel like a female version of Tim the Toolman Taylor from Home Improvement; "More power, grunt, grunt grunt").
     
    Here is the left side mount after removing the blocks and moving it to the right. 
     

     

     
    The mount was right at the end of the extrusions. This shows how far I moved it over.
     

     
    I also had to move the Bulletin board and the TV over slightly. These shots are of the right side mount after removing the blocks (the mount didn't need to be moved).
     

     
    Here the clamps are compressed (note how long those screws are)...
     

     
    ...and fully expanded.
     

     
    I still need to remove the old cables (they will not be compatible with the new speakers) and the sub (mayhap later today).
     

     
    Of course, I didn't discover the sub had died until yesterday and the warranty ran out on the 4th (mutter, mutter, mumble, mumble), meaning i can't even get a partial refund. At least I got a solid five years out the system.
     
    I'm still torn between these two speakers:
     
    https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=605500   
     
    https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=115&cp_id=11504&cs_id=1150401&p_id=605650&seq=1&format=2
     
    The first one has been around for years and has an excellent track record. The second one is much better quality, based on the specs, but, as of last night, hasn't had any reviews yet. Monoprice warrants both for only one year with no option for an extended warranty. I would hate to pay over twice the price of the first one for the second one and have it die 13 months from now. It's also a bit larger, making for a tighter fit. I'm open to suggestions.
     
     
  15. Like
    Voxels-Box reacted to CapTen in Goa´uld Al´Kesh [scratch build]   
    Hi, sorry for my delay, I had a sick cat at home the last few weeks and had to go to the vet almost daily.
    At the moment my cat seems to be better but the cause still could not be found.
    So I still fear daily for his life

    So as promised here a short video of the Alkesh and the last photos on the fly.

    For all who go to Gamsecom, you can see the Goa'uld Bomber there at the ECOM booth, hall 10.1, booth B.20.

       















































  16. Like
    Voxels-Box reacted to Lady Fitzgerald in Roisin Dearg (a Scratch Built "Modular" Case)   
    I got up this morning at Omigosh O'clock so I could get to work on applying the veneer to the case panels before it got too hot. It was 89o when I went outside at 5:30PM. At 9AM, when I finiished everything, it was 97o (it's supposed to get up to 114o today). Even though it is located only 2' above Hell, there are reasons I love living in AZ and these two shots of what I saw this morning is but one of them.
     

     

     
    I took these about three doors down from my home since there was a short but really bushy palm tree bloocking much of the sunrise. We get some incredible sunrises and sunsets in this neck of the world and this sunrise isn't anywhere nearly as spectacular as some I've seen (although it's nothing to sneeze at!).
     
    Back to the ranch...er...work... I set up a work table, covered it with some scrap cardboard to protect it, and laid down the two smallest panels and their veneer (I figured if I was going to goof, it would be on one of the first panel or two and I had enough left over veneer for a do-over on one of the three smallest panels). Here, I've already brushed on contact cement onto the panels and the veneer backing.
     

     
    I was worried that I might not have enough contact cement to finish the job because I was afraid I would have to put two coats on the veneer if the paper backing soaked up too much of the cement but I lucked out. All I had to do was put down a heavy coat on the veneer backing without needing a second coat.
     
    When the contact cement had dried to the point it is just barely tacky, I laid wood strips (paint stirring sticks, in this case) on top of the panel...
     

     
    ...then laid the veneer on top of the sticks.
     

     
    Once I was satisfied the veneer was aligned on the panel correctly, I started removing sticks a couple at a time and rolling down the veneer with a hard rubber laminate roller. The contact cement bonds to itself on contact (duh) and the roller ensures full contact is made without any air bubbles.
     

     
     While waiting on the contact cement on a panel to dry enough, I worked on trimming the previously veneered panels inside where it was cooler. This shot is of a panel about to get rough trimmed using scissors (the veneer is really thin so the scissors cut it easily).
     

     
    I used an Exacto knife to rough trim the window and fan openings (killing three blades in the process).
     

     

     
    This little gizmo is designed for trimming edge banding, a type of veneer with a hot melt adhesive used to cover the raw edges of plywood (you activate the adesive with a hot clothes iron). It works kinda like a little block plane with guides. The scissors did a pretty decent job of trimming the outside edges of the panels but the Band-it cleaned up the spots not quite right quite a bit.
     

     

     
     
    The final trimming was done with a sanding block and 220 grit sandpaper. I also "broke" (slightly rounded off) the corners and edges with the sandpaper. I wrapped the sandpaper around an empty pill bottle to trim sand the fan openings and the radiused inside corners of the window opening. This is a shot of the finished right side panel.
     

     
    After trimming the edges, I sanded the faces of the veneer and put the panels away. I'll be applying at least three coats of a clear satin finish brushing lacquer on Wednesday. Since I have to wait three hours between coats, I'll be spending much of the day on that. I can hardly wait to see how the figuring will pop once I hit it with the finish (it will look a little like a herringbone tiger maple).
     
    Oh shoot, I almost forgot I need to drill out the fan mounting screws in the veneer of the top panel. I'll do that in a minute, then I'll need to take care of some errands.
  17. Like
    Voxels-Box reacted to neSSa in Project AXE-R [scratch build]   
    3 days left, a lot of job is done, system work
     















  18. Like
    Voxels-Box got a reaction from Exotath in Twin Core X9's - Name TBD (updated)   
    You definitely seem to have taken all the right steps. 
    I dont know what paint you used, but was two coats sufficient?  I remember doing at least 3-4 coats, depending on the piece. (Im no paint expert btw)
    I hope the repaint goes smoothly!
  19. Like
    Voxels-Box reacted to Lady Fitzgerald in Roisin Dearg (a Scratch Built "Modular" Case)   
    Thanks for the suggestion! Unfortunately, that kind of tray won't fit under my desk; the desk is too small for it.
     
    All those cables you see in the jungle are eventually coming out (I've already dug a few out) so I can plow...er...remove the built up dust. Since the monitors are going to be attached to the bridge I'm building, that's where many of the new cables are going to be routed. I'm planning on running the rest of the cables over hooks on the wall under that pesky window (I spotted some at Home Despot yesterday that could do the job and look nice). That will keep them off the floor so I can run a dust mop or vacuum cleaner back there every so often without trying to play dodgem with stuff on the floor. I'll also mount the surge arrestor low on the wall (mental note to self: Self, get a new surge arrestor!). Hopefully, the only thing on the floor would be the UPS (and I'm considering mounting a really low shelf on the back of the night stand to also get the UPS off the floor).
     
    I spent all of yesterday morning outside, starting at 5:30AM in an attempt to beat the heat, working on the 1/4" x 2" x 3" x 7' aluminum angles, cutting them to length, laying out all the holes, then drilling the holes. What made it fun was it had rained earlier in the morning, just enough that the humidity was unusually high (for AZ). By the time I had finshed working on the angles (except for deburring the holes and sanding them), getting drenched in sweat (I downed a quart of Powerade 0 in five minutes and killed three 16 oz. bottles of water while working), putting away my tools, and sweeping off my carport, I was whupped, having some muscle cramps, and had to take a short nap.
     
    I later had to run some errands which included a stop at Ace Hardware to pick up some screws and a couple of 4' square sheets of 3/4" Styrofoam bead insulation to put in that pesky window. The drive home turned into a race to get there before a humongous haboob (dust storm) arrived. I just barely got home and got everything into the house before all hell broke loose. The storm was two storms that merged and formed a line that reached from Northern AZ clear down into Mexico. Winds in some places were gusting to over 70 mph. My mobile home was actually shaking at times (so was I!). That was followed by a short but intense, rain, that was the first measurable rain at the airport in 119 days (and it certainly tried to make up for lost time). Supposedly, we are in for more of the same this evening (time will tell; forecasting weather in AZ is like shooting craps when the other guy is using his loaded dice).
     
    After taking care of the errands (including picking up the aluminum I ordered for the adapters from my mail service) and beating the dust storm home, I started working on the adapters for mounting the speaker mounts on the bridge. The adapters were made from 3/8" x 2 1/2" x 8" aluminum bar (I got lucky and found two pieces exactly the correct size on Fleabay). I wanted the aluminum that thick because I was going to tap some holes for 1/4"-20 screws so I needed pieces that had enough meat to not strip out. I also had my drill press already set up on my washing machine so I wanted to finish using it before putting it away and cleaning up the mess so I can do laundry.
     
    Here are the finished adapters.
     

     

     

     
    I needed some flat head 5/16" screws to secure the adapters to the ends of the extrusions that the TV will hang from. However, the lengths available were either too short or too long. Since I had plenty of "meat" in the adapters, I cheated and recessed the heads to expose a bit more screw on the other size.
     

     
    The heads of the screws were a hair under 5/8" inch so I wnet to Home Despot and grabbed a 5/8" countersink, chucked it up in my drill press, then buried it into the aluminum. Rather Michael Mouse but it worked. It was much easier and faster than cutting down longer screws with my Dremel.
     
    All I did today, so far, was to debur the holes in the angles, then sand and degrease the angles and the adapter plates. I had a really rough night last night, up and down with leg and foot cramps so I'm just a bit short on ambition today. I used my random orbital sander to sand everything down and now my hands are numb (you all would die laughing if you saw the typos I'm making typing this up). If it doesn't storm tonight or rain in the morning (rain cranks up the humidity), I'm going to try to paint everything tomorrow morning at first light.
  20. Like
    Voxels-Box reacted to neSSa in Project AXE-R [scratch build]   
    Assembling, day two
     












  21. Like
    Voxels-Box reacted to neSSa in Project AXE-R [scratch build]   
    To continue
     





  22. Like
    Voxels-Box reacted to Lady Fitzgerald in Roisin Dearg (a Scratch Built "Modular" Case)   
    I had a bad night the night before last so I didn't get anything done yesterday, including running any errands. This turned out to be a good thing since two packages that were supposed to be delivered to my mail service Monday were delivered today. With all the packages I picked up today, it was like Christmas in June. I spent the afternoon going through all of it, putting things away, cutting long strings of connector pins into shorter lengths so I could fit them into my parts boxes, etc.
     
    After most of what I picked up today was put away, I took a black Sharpie to the USB header cable I got to connect the card readers to the USB 3.1 Gen 1 (I still would like to "meet" the yoyos who renamed USB 3.0!) header on the MOBO. It was blue and all the other cables in the area it is running in are black so the blue had to go. Here is the cable after "painting" it.
     

     
    It's a little glossier than I would have liked but, otherwise, it will do quite nicely.
     
    I then wired up one of the replacement dimmer switches I had ordered to replace the incinerated one. Before installing the dimmer switch onto the switch panel, I gave it a trial run to make sure it worked ok. This is full brightness.
     

     
    This is when I turned the brightness down somewhat.
     

     
    That's much better. The light isn't glaring and washing out the colors. Here is when I dimmed it all the way down.
     

     
    It's a bit too dim but it gives you an idea of how much range the dimmer has. Light from the kitchen is messing up the photos a bit.
     
    Here is the dimmer and its cable before I installed it on the switch panel.
     

     

     
    And this is how it looks installed.
     

     

     
    That single cable sticking up like an obscene gesture is the one that goes to the LEDs.
     
    That's it for tonight. I'm pooped!
  23. Like
    Voxels-Box reacted to Lady Fitzgerald in Roisin Dearg (a Scratch Built "Modular" Case)   
    After I had cooled down for while, I tackled the "front panel" switch cables (actually, the switches are located on the left side of the case). Seems like everything I touched today...er...yesterday turned to...something that makes grass green.  I crimped on a connector to one end of a wire (there are a total of twelve), put a shrink over it, and tested the fit on a switch. The first two went fine but the wire pulled out of the connector on the third one, despite it passing the pull test when I first crimped it  so I got mad(er) and soldered the connectors on the remaining ten wires. After crimping, soldering, and heat shrinking the wires, I tried them out to make sure I hadn't gotten any solder where it would interfere with going onto a switch. Two wouldn't go onto a switch. I cut the connectors off, crimped and soldered on a new connector on one, then checked the fit. Again, it wouldn't go on. I had made darned certain that I hadn't gotten any solder anywhere other than where it belonged so the connector must have been. The next two connectors went on just like they were supposed to so I'm thinking I must have gotten a few bad connectors.
     
    After all the connectors were installed on one end of the twelve wires, I made labels to go on each wire to make keeping track of which one went where easier using my label machine. Of course, I ran out of tape before I was quite finished but I probably have enough made as long as I use temporary masking tape labels for the unfinished ends. That's as far as I got before running out of steam and patience.
     
    Enough with the carping. Here are some pictures. Here is what the connector that goes to the switch looks like (before soldering).
     

     
    The switches came with short cables that had a piece of clear tubing over the end of the connector to prevent shorts.
     

     
    They didn't stay put very well and just didn't look all that great so I just put plain old heat shrinks over them. The shrinks also provided some additional strain relief where the wire enters the connector. In this shot, you can see the connectors plugged onto a swich and the labels I made.
     

     
    Next will be to plug the wires into all three switches, install the switches, temporarily route them to where they will plug into the extensions coming out the back of the MOBO tray, then cut the individual wires to match the ends of the extensions. Then, I'll pull it all out again so I can make up the wires into sleeved cables. At some point, I also need to start installing the power cables going to the MOBO.
  24. Like
    Voxels-Box reacted to Mnpctech in MAD MAX TRIBUTE PC BUILD   
    To emulate the rear fuel tanks in the Falcon XB, I'll be using EK-RES X3 150mm reservoirs. btw, these photos are stills from video I'm making of the entire build, once it finished for my YT channel, https://www.youtube.com/user/MonsterMawd
    I'm wondering if I can use clips from the movie without audio in my video? no clue...



  25. Like
    Voxels-Box reacted to Lady Fitzgerald in Roisin Dearg (a Scratch Built "Modular" Case)   
    Since USB 3.0...excuse me, USB 3,1 Gen 1 (I still would like to "meet" the yahoos who made that moronic name change)...has such a big, clunky, usually standout-like-a-sore-thumb blue connector that plugs vertically into the MOBO header and I'm trying to keep the cables as unintrusive as possible, i found these header extensions...
     

     
    ...to use with these cute little angle adapters...
     

     

     
    ...to make slipping the USB 3.1 Gen 1 cables under the MOBO tray easier and less clunky looking. It didn't dawn on me until this morning that I could sleeve those cables to keep the little wires corralled and looking nicer.
     
    Here, I've started sliding the sleeving onto a cable. One thing I really like about the Kobra sleeves I'm using is they are really expandable. Once started (that part is a bit tricky), the sleeve I'm using had plenty of expansion room to get over the connector.
     

     
    The sleeve is on and the heat shrink sleeves have been slipped on prior to shrinking.
     

     
    Here are the final results.
     

     

     
    This is how the adapter and sleeve will look when plugged into the board. I haven't fully seated the adapter in the MOBO header yet since, once seated, they are buggers to remove. I destroyed the one I did seat getting it out (fortunately, I had a couple of spares).
     

     

     
    I've been agonizing over how I was going to get the ribbon power cables I was going to make stay aligned and neat looking. Since the sleeving here worked out so well, I may do the same for all the cables except maybe the 24 pin cable. I may just get an extension for the 24 pin.
     
    I don't know if I'm going to get any more work done today or not. My miserable, misbegotten allergies have flared up and I was forced to take a couple of Benadryl so I'll be loopy(er) for a while and have to sleep it off.
×