Watashi

Yeah wacom is the best in the industry.

I use a Bitspower G1/4 temperature sensor plug connected to a Touchaqua G1/4 T-Fitting (2 Female, 1 rotary Male). This is connected to the outlet of my pump/res combo. For fan control and thermal monitoring, I use the Asus Fan Extension Card and plugged the fans into one header (with the provided 3-way fan splitter that came with my EK-KIT P360). All fan curves are set up in the BIOS, eliminating any need for additional software for control.
 
Fans are Corsair ML120 twin-pack fans. IIRC this is my fan curve setup:
 
Minimum: 20% Duty Cycle @ 30º C coolant temperature (reason why I set the coolant temperature this high is my ambient room temperature tends to hover around this range)
Middle: 55% Duty Cycle @ 40º C coolant temperature
Max: 100% Duty Cycle @ 60º C coolant temperature

I would like to chime in here and say as for water-cooling, the reason most people who set up custom loops claim that the noise profile is not different from either a high-end air cooler or a 240mm and up CLC lies in how the fans are set up. In my specific case, I base my fan curves on the coolant temperature and not the CPU temperature (like most people). This is based on the fact that the radiator is there to remove the heat from the coolant, and the waterblock over the heat source acts as the medium for the coolant to move the heat from said heat source and to the radiator. So, it makes far more sense to me to set up my fan curves based on coolant temperature. This gives me two advantages: 1) I can set the fans to very low RPMs and still get similar temperatures compared to running them off of the CPU temperature, and 2) the transition between higher RPMs and lower RPMs is very smooth, and linear, so I don't get those sudden spikes in fan RPM transitions.
 
If I was going to build a work computer, then yeah, I would want to air cool the whole thing to make servicing faster, and remove the inherit risk of damaging components from a leaking CLC or a custom loop, even though both solutions (all their components for the latter) are built to tight tolerances.

Poor drivers that eventually cause BSODs with future Windows updates, slower than half the advertised speeds unless you're right beside the router, in which case you might as well just use ethernet anyway, and the occasional inability to connect even though there claims to be 3 or 4 bars of signal.
 
The thing is that these off-brand manufacturers have no reputation to maintain either, and thus really don't care about providing support or driver updates down the road later, so I'm not saying don't save some money by buying one. Just know that you might end up needing to buy 2 or 3 adapters when you could have just bought 1 good one instead.

Cheaper isn't always better. Speeds can be lies. USB adapters can be yanked out at any moment.
 
I'm using my computer right now with my PCIe Wi-Fi card completely stable. Your choice though, ultimately.

Thanks for the suggestion; however my solution seems to be cheaper and have a bit better speeds!

My friend and I just recently finished fixing up his computer. Now all he needs is an internet solution. Long story short: he needs Wi-fi, he's not using hardline. Normally whenever I'm in this situation I recommend people just buy a USB dongle like the one linked below. Do you guys have any other preferred method that you use?
 
https://www.amazon.com/Inamax-1200Mbps-Wireless-802-11ac-10-4-10-13/dp/B0773ZPKS2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1532987391&sr=8-3&keywords=wi-fi+dongle

For a system and heatsink with front to back airflow, the top fans don't help much if at all.
The side panel fits back on--that's what it means when a cooler fits. 
 
Cooler temps in and of itself doesn't mean much if temps are otherwise fine but it provides more headroom for oc'ing and ability to lower fan speeds. If underclocking and losing performance doesn't matter much, I'm not sure what would matter.

You can't only use software because what you have to measure is what light comes out of the monitor. How is software by itself going to do that?
 
Skimming through the video of the screenshot presented, it looks like Linus used a combo of the following hardware and software:
https://www.xrite.com/categories/calibration-profiling/i1display-pro
https://calman.spectracal.com/calman-for-business.html
 
For lower cost, one stop solutions, which might not report as much, I have used an older generation version of:
https://www.datacolor.com/photography-design/product-overview/spyder5-family/

Sounds like taking the bus is well worth it in that situation. That's something I haven't even considered. Luckily, I'm likely to get hired within walking distance from my house after my internship. It's about a 2 minute drive. But who knows what will actually happen?

IT helpdesk will kill your soul. You will lose faith in humanity.

The last apartment I lived at was 650 a month, water included :).
Although I wouldn't want to live in an apartment forever, it was a really nice place. Compared to something like 1500-1800 (like your figure) that seems like a fantastic deal. It was also a 2br.

I have a 30-40ish minute commute currently. If possible, I would like to avoid a long commute.

That actually wouldn't surprise me. I know some people that want to live in these extremely "nice" areas. Albeit, it seems kind of silly to spend tons of money just so you can say you live somewhere "nice".

Just remember, a jack of all trades is a master of none.

It's something that I have considered but I haven't looked at quite in depth. If I planned on moving somewhere that was really outside of the immediate area I would want to do more research though!

actually something like that would be good on multiple levels since it is a niche technical shop its a good way to get some experience not only with tech but with customer service in general.

Yeah, when I get in for the night I will show a reference thread I used to do this. This was a pretty common mod when the 290/290x's came out due to the blower.

You do you man. Check out the Be Quiet! stuff

Those look to be correct as the standard pitch is 2.54mm on a regular bread board. 
 
-Moved to Hobby Electronics-

Lmao, that is funny as hell

I'm going to try to have a courageous friend hold it lol.

This DIY video follows the same steps in that link, cause both were created by same guy (wink, wink)
 
 
 

That's very doable I'd recommend to tape off the whole panel and mark your cut lines before starting off. Something like a Dremel would make quick work of it but most importantly be sure to cut away from the line and afterwards to use a file to bring it to the mark to straighten and clean up the edges. 

could you be more specific about what your desired behavior is and what you are actually getting? Is it that you're seeing "done" in the returned string when you don't want it to be?