Xanthe_2871

...wow, I've used Windows PCs for 20 years, never knew a program could open a web file by copy pasting the URL into the windows explorer box... Thank you!

Turning off the bg layer in a new file does not seem to make a difference, it's still adding the black.

Hi. This is very frustrating, in Photoshop when I copy paste an image with a transparent bg it replaces it with black. How do I turn that off? Here is an example. I google "dinosaur" because, dinos are cool! I want this image: But if I copy it to my clipboard, then paste it into Photoshop, I get this: Why? If I save the image, then open from the file it works just fine. I get what I wanted: How do I set Photoshop to give me that last image when I copy/paste? It would save so much time if I could copy/paste these images rather than save and load them. Thank you!

Yeah it's not showing at all. But when I do Displayport to HDMI then HDMI to VGA, that works.

EVGA 1070

Hi. I have a monitor I want to use with my PC, it only takes VGA. I have no VGA ports open on my PC so I got a displayport to vga adapter on Amazon. When I hook it all up Windows can't detect the display. I've tried the different ports on my graphics card, it has 3 but none work. I know the screen works. Maybe the cable is bad, I could exchange it, but before I do that, what else can I try to get Windows to detect it? Is there a way to force it to put out video to the port, even if it doesn't think there is anything plugged in? What else can I do?

Hi, I want to upgrade my laptop to have a built in 4G modem. There are cards for this, like this one here, but they take an M.2 slot and my laptop doesn't have one free. It's WiFi card is M.2 though, so if there is a combo card that handles WiFi AND 4G that would be epic. Does anyone know of such a card?

TL;DR: Just read the bold text. Hi. I use Photoshop a lot, I've mostly taught myself and I know about linking and grouping layers, but sometimes that's not good enough for a task. Here is a crappy example I threw together for asking this question: Now let's say I want to move the entire group for "Item 2". If I click any 1 of the linked layers the entire thing moves, BUT, the picture I added won't come along. It's not linked. I don't want it linked, that will get annoying when all my shitty balls sell out, now I have this layer hanging around. It's better for me to just delete the one layer without it being linked when they sell out. But, if it's not linked then it won't come along with the rest when I drag it around: I want to select everything, linked or not. This is especially a problem with big files where I may have as many as 50 layers in groups and subgroups linked as needed but not all to each other, and I want to click and drag the entire thing, or nudge it left or right a few pixels so it lines up with another group. Is there some tool or key I can hold down, so I just draw a selection box around the entire group, and all visible layers get selected? Even if it selects the BG layer, I can just "Ctrl" deselect it. That would be so much easier than trying to find every single layer in a huge group that needs to be selected together. Thank you!

Thank you! Based on your suggestions I'd probably go with #3 or #7. Not sure what you mean by extra cables. It's a 2.5 inch SSD going into a laptop. It just has the SATA connector, right?

TL;DR: I want an SSD. I don't care too much about speed, it could even be the same speed as a hdd. I do care about $/GB and reliability. What I've found is below, I'd love a suggestion from this list, or something similar if you know of a better option. Option 1 Cheapest 1 TB drive by a brand I recognise. But is it reliable? The reviews certainly look good. 9.28¢/GB Option 2 A bit more expensive, but a brand I trust more than ADATA. Good reviews, but no better than the ADATA. 10.55¢/GB Option 3 A few dollars more than the SanDisk, but WD is my most trusted brand. But, doesn't WD own SanDisk now? Am I just spending $5 more for the brand? Slightly better reviews. 11.23¢/GB Option 4 Another increase in price by a few dollars. A brand I've never used, but LTT has recommended before. Slightly better reviews than options 1-4. 11.72¢/GB Option 5 The most expensive 1TB drive I'm considering, but also has outstanding reviews. Suggested by multiple articles I found on Google. If it's just as reliable as the rest, but faster, then I'll pass. Speed isn't important to me. 14.45¢/GB I'm also considering these two 2TB options: Option 6 2TB! Only a little more than double the price. Still decent reviews. At 9.77¢/GB it's a better value than options 2-5. Honestly, I could justify $200 on this, if it's as reliable as the rest. Again, I don't care about speed too much. Option 7 Also a seemingly good value. At 10.99¢/GB it's still in the ballpark of what I'd like to spend per GB. But is it reliable? I don't need 2 TB, and maybe dumping more and more stuff on there like I would a traditional HDD will worsen it's life. I'm going to use this drive as mass storage, lots of dumping random files onto it. Maybe I should get a more expensive 1 TB drive that handles abuse better? Or, maybe more expensive just means faster, and in general, all SSD's use the same tech and will roughly handle read/write lifespans the same? I don't know! Please give me guidance, wonderful tech geeks! More info for those interested: My laptop has an M.2 500GB SSD drive, which is currently my only storage for my laptop. I want to expand my storage. It has an open slot for a SATA drive, because it came with a 2 TB HDD but I removed it on day one. I don't want an hdd. I know they've gotten a lot better at handling vibrations but, my laptop is a convertible and I love being able to shake and twist and move it anyway I want in the tablet mode. Especially since I'm bad with backing up my files regularly so, a file may live for 6 months or more on my laptop before it gets a backup. I want an SSD. I'd like at least 1TB. But I'll spend more on a bigger drive if it's a better value per GB. It doesn't need to be fast. (I believe 500GB is still the sweet spot for GB/$ on SSDs, but I haven't been keeping up a lot lately so, maybe there is a better deal I don't know of. I want at least 1TB. But if someone's like, dude, this 2TB is an even better value, I'll spend more on it.) As it is, I treat my current M.2 SSD as a normal drive. It's my only drive, I store everything on it, just once in a while dumping things I don't use anymore onto random external HDDs to free up space. (HDDs that will sit around in a drawer until I suddenly need some file, and I spend hours looking for it... I'm not very digitally organized. Another reason I just want a SSD mass storage on my laptop. ^^;) Lots of Photoshop .PSD's, lots of video clips and photos, maybe even the VM virtual drives currently on my M.2 boot drive.

Hi! A friend is retiring and wants to use up his points from his work's catalog. Every year you work there you get points. In my own anecdotal experience these catalog products aren't as good as what you'd buy at Target or Best Buy. I think they're open box units, or maybe it's like CPU binning, with the catalog units being less reliable, etc. It makes sense, since it's a lot harder to complain about a free TV from a catalog. Does anyone know if this is really how these catalogs tend to work? Is the Samsung or Sony more likely to be reliable?

Hi, as a part of a collaboration I need to share some Photoshop .PSD files. What information is in there? Sure, it has the layers, the layer names, etc. But for metadata, does it have a signature with my computer name, Photoshop CC username, where on my PC it was saved/file path, time of day when it was created, last modified, etc. If these files do contain personal info I don't want exposed, how can I redact it? Save as a layered .TIFF? Is there a setting to remove the info?

Hi. I have multiple PCs running tasks for me at home. They require my interaction a few times during the day, to adjust certain settings. Without my override the PCs will eventually get locked out from their tasks and won't be productive again until I'm able to correct the issue. This can't be solved easily, so I just use Chrome Remote Desktop to check up on them every so often when I'm away from home. My issue right now is: one of my Windows 7 PCs isn't showing as online. I know it is online, because it's tasks are still being performed. And for the issue of the PCs getting stuck, I can solve that on any one PC and the rest will see that update and automatically get back on track. But, if I want to change the parameters of a single PC's tasks I have to remote control it directly. I can't change those settings from another PC, I can only get it "unstuck" when that happens. So, now the real question. Can I restart it somehow? I have access to another Windows 7 PC on the same network, in fact both PCs are hard wired into the same switch. I can also get it's IP address off my Linksys app. So, if I remote access the Windows 7 PC that's working correctly, can I open CMD and type some string with the other PC's IP to restart it?

I own a Samsung Galaxy Note 9. It's awesome. I know it's "IP 68" water resistant, and I know that's not really "waterproof" in the sense that it can never be unaffected by water, but how good is the Note 9 with water? I've owned many IP67 and IP68 devices before, and so far only one has catastrophically failed under normal circumstances (no cracks, or debris in a seal, just failed underwater due to some factory defect. It was a LG G6. But ever since then I've been very cautious with "water resistant" phones. My phone is in a case, I don't know if that is better or worse. Maybe it traps the water in for longer and it's worse, or maybe it stops water better than a naked phone and it's better. Any and all input is appreciated. :)

Hello again! It's been exactly a year since I first asked this question. You can see the conversation and poll results from last year here. I wanted to ask this again because I think the role of smart assistants in our lives has changed some. In the last year we've seen echo dots and home minis disseminate like the Borg. Resistance is futile. With more and more everyday non-techies using this tech, I think it's place in society has also changed some. I'm curious if your answers have changed! For me, I maintain my belief that saying please and thank you is the best approach, mainly because these things are getting more and more human like, and if we allow ourselves to be rude to them, we may unknowingly become rude to real people too. Also, as a bonus for this year: How about Google Duplex? Do you, or will you, say "please" and "thank you" to that?

Thanks! I don't know if 3D printed plastic would be soft enough, I'd fear it snapping in half over time. I can use the 3D printer at my college for free, if I bring plastic, but I think it only does ABS. I've been told before the school bans PLA because people were using it to make, inappropriate things. Whatever that means.

Thank you! I reached out and they sent me this: https://www.lenovo.com/us/en/accessories-and-monitors/pens-and-supplies/pen-holders/TAB-ACC-BO-ThinkPad-USB-Pen-Holder/p/4X80J67430 For $3/pc that's pretty reasonable. I don't need 5, but whatever. Not that big a deal.

Hi. I lost this little USB holder thing that goes in my laptop to carry the optional pen around. I can find bundles with the pen and the holder, but I can't find just the holder. I'm not even sure what to call it. This is what it looks like: This is the bundle. It is the same pen and parts that came with my laptop, but if someone can find me the same type of part by a different brand I don't really care, as long as it fits. https://www.amazon.com/Lenovo-Capacity-Touchscreen-Laptops-GX80K32882/dp/B01AZC3HF2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1548222312&sr=8-4&keywords=usb+pen+holder+for+laptop