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azemuno

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  1. Awesome thanks guys. I am used to doing it I just wasn't sure if PWM held any extra precautions.
  2. Am I able to cut the PWM cables and the molex power cables to resolder and reduce the length? Could there be any problems?
  3. Does anybody know what version of the Asus ROG AM4 bios doesn't have the 20C temp offset? I have version 0702 build date - 02/21/2017 running. Is the temperatures I'm looking at legit? Or is it offset? Thanks.
  4. After thinking all day I've come up with a solution. I am going to get a hole cut in the bottom panel of the case and mount the 120mm radiator there. I may swap out the rads for 60mm thick rads instead. That should provide enough heat dissipation. There is enough room to fit a full 240 rad down there but it would take some nifty mounting. I'll start a build log soon to better document the process. Thanks for the help man!
  5. Who wants to build an easy computer? That's boring.
  6. Sorry I meant to say ATX*. Putting an E-ATX would cover so much room for routing tubes and cables I don't see it being a good idea in this case.
  7. I really wouldn't feel good about running a solo 240 of that's the case. There are very few builds of this case and only a couple liquid cooled which is why I thought it would be awesome to see how much I can pack in this thing. I would have to only modify the fan tray holding the radiator in on the front of the case. That would give me enough clearance to squeeze in the 120mm radiator and fan. But it would literally be touching the GPU. I have thought of getting the mini 1080 instead of the 1080ti so I could run the radiator with no problems. But oh the 1080ti looks so good. ?
  8. Currently working on a "no compromises" ITX build in a small form factor case (CaseLabs Bullet BH7). I am working to start a build log soon but basically I am running a full GPU/CPU custom loop in this case and it has been a headache but it's what I expected. I am able to fit a 240 38mm Rad mounted to the top of the case and a 120 30mm Rad on the front. I'm about to scrap the 120 radiator because it won't fit with a 1080ti without case modding. Will the single 240 38mm radiator cool a 1080ti and a ryzen 7 1800x sufficiently? They are both new and I'm not familiar with how their temps compare to previous chips. I understand that overclocking is probably out of the question with such a minimal loop. This PC will be a workstation for video/photo editing, object oriented programming, and some gaming on the side. I also plan on looking into 3D printing in the future. Will the radiator handle it? Thanks!
  9. Awesome! That's a load off my shoulders. Thanks for the help!
  10. Just received two radiators from EKWB, a PE-240, and a SE-120. Planning out my loop I opened up one of the radiator caps to see a weird white/gray concrete like substance around the threads. Might I add, I found it strange how the quality on the PE radiator and the SE radiator differed so dramatically. Strange that radiator which only differ in size would have different construction, painting, etc... Does anybody have any experience with this? It looks like some kind of corrosion but I'm not expert in liquid cooling so I'm looking for anybody with knowledge on this topic. Thanks!
  11. Just having the option to disconnect the cable and headset from that point. My setup doesn't allow me to easily disconnect the cable from my computer so having that would make it easier. I won't both with it though.
  12. Only reason for the USB DAC is just to allow for the headset cable to be modular. From what I've read the sound fetures on this motherboard are pretty good so I will stick with that. Thanks for the help.
  13. Looking to just get a generic one like this: https://www.amazon.ca/TROND-Headphone-Microphone-Plug-N-Play-Compatible/dp/B00XUPX2H0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480901619&sr=8-1&keywords=usb%2Bto%2Baudio&th=1 If I will lose sound quality I won't bother.
  14. Will plugging my headset (M50x) into a usb audio adapter over-rule the motherboard (Gigabyte z170x G1) sound card?
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