SlicerZrT

No worries, I used to be an apprentice for an electrician a while back, until he forgot to turn off the mains when he rewired a lighting circuit and got zapped off of the ladder he was on. Plus I've been fiddling with electricity ever since I was 8 years old, now there's a dangerous childhood, probably the reason why I'm so interested in computer hardware

True, but I'm only going to use the power supply now and then to test random stuff. I think that the 12V and 5V rails are too high because there wasn't any load when I tested the voltages, and given Ohm's law, that is expectable from an unregulated PSU

Thanks for informing me, I thought I was going crazy when I couldn't find results on Google I should then ignore those wires, cut them short and insulate them for good measure I'm not going to be opening the PSU, and I'm well aware of the dangers of capacitors I have been jolted a few good times by 220VAC, almost lost a finger because of it when I bridged a switch for a high wattage transformer The power supply will be used unopened, warranty void sticker still intact, I'm not willing to mess around with the insides of it, if the PSU dies, it dies and I throw it away, but thanks for the words of caution

I should probably add that I will not be using the PSU to power up any computing equipment. But I will be using it to drive LED's and motors

So I'm going to refurbish a "dead" power supply. The power supply in question does work, I tested it, all rails are working, except for the 5V standby, which, after several years of torture, has failed. The power supply turns on and provides reasonable voltages, 12.7V on the 12V rail, 5.3V on the 5V rail and 3,4V on the 3.3V rail. It's not a high quality power supply and possibly only has further use as a testing unit, or to be recycled. The power supply, when connected to a motherboard, doesn't turn on, probably because of the 5VSB being dead, but when I short ground and power-on, it fires up. I've done Googled pin-out diagrams of the 24-pin ATX connector it has on it, and was wondering what the -5V and -12V rails were for. Are they return 12V and return 5V or are they basically useless to me? If they do something, how would I use them to wire up a test bench? I really don't want to throw the power supply away as it can easily handle 450W.

I said that partly to being tired and grumpy, but also because I realized that I shot myself in the foot. I did once want to buy a Ryzen 5 3600 on a b450 motherboard, however, every time I look, it's always sold out, probably because it's the most popular AMD. Isn't the intel bug only because of hyper threading? I did read something similar.

Just realized that my description has nothing to do with the title... Is a intel core i5 3330 still relevant for gaming? Bah, I'm closing this thread and not coming back.

Fair point. I've never owned a Ryzen, only a Athlon II x2, which burnt out from wear and tear. It's not like I hold a grudge against AMD or Ryzen, I just feel comfortable with intel, I always have, regardless of the security flaws and Meltdown, Spectre. Im only planning on upgrading in 6 months time, so who knows, maybe I might just choose Ryzen. I cannot help but feel a biased response however, I know that I was incorrect on calling AMD buggy, that I can pretty much feel stupid for, but Intel's still good for gaming. I think what I was thinking of buggy is AMD's decision on reduced memory bandwidth for zen 2, I don't like that at all, but I guess I can still live with it. I've just been a fan of team blue and team green for so long that I haven't really considered anything else.

My core i5 3330 is getting a little long in the tooth right about now, and I'm starting to wonder if I should upgrade and hand my cpu, mobo and ram over to my dad who's still got a Haswell Pentium and struggling to get front USB3.0 from a h81 chipset (quite literally looked everywhere for an affordable h87, without having it imported from China) Reason why I think that my cpu is faltering for me is that even Windows services make it hit 30 to 60 percent idle, plus it won't hit 3.2 single core boost anymore, even with a beefy air cooler on top of it, I even checked my bios, but alas an h77 motherboard doesn't really include anything for adjusting clock speeds apart from enabling and disabling turbo boost which I know for sure is enabled. I've totally lost all hope for AMD and Ryzen, so I'm sticking with an Intel. I was considering buying a 9600k with a good Z390 motherboard, since I can afford it after a few good months of saving up. But now I'm also wondering if I should wait more and get a tenth generation core i5 10600k, which is rumored to have hyper threading. Typical use case is not just heavy gaming at 1080p, but also some content editing and music conversion (cbr to vbr). The video editor I use is gpu accelerated, but still uses a mighty chunk of cpu and the music editor is strictly cpu bound, plus I play heavily modded minecraft, which I get about 40 fps, if I'm lucky. I tinker with mods rather than survive in MC, so I tend to make complex machines which grind my cpu to a halt. What do you guys think? Should I stick with what I got or should I get an upgrade. My preference is nothing less than a core i5, maybe max a core i7 and, no AMD, they still got a lot of bugs to fix before I trust them again. I was considering a core i9 9900k, but when I looked at the price, I laughed a good 5 minutes. The place that sells the computer components that I'm used to and have a good reputation there only sells the latest intel cpu's and motherboards so definitely 9th Gen, maybe 8th Gen, haven't checked recently. I'm experienced with cpu overclocking, nothing too extreme however, so I'm definitely considering an unlocked Intel cpu. Just need to make an informed decision as a double sure measure. I'd appreciate any tips and recommendations you got… any help will be a godsend. PS: I didn't buy my core i5 3330, I inherited it, so I don't really know what to look for when purchasing a cpu, mobo combo.

Idle temps are meaningless yes and you also need to consider the silicone lottery. Perhaps the thermal paste underneath your IHS is insufficient, Intel likes to do that to cut costs, I've had to delid many cpus that had this issue, but I won't recommend it cos it can really damage your cpu if you don't know what you're doing, plus it's too much hassle (not to mention voiding your warranty). Your temps are fine, you should only start worrying when you start hitting, say, 70 degrees and above, I'd say 50-60 degrees full load is good, but that'll vary because of many reasons. If you're serious worried about temperatures, don't be, processors will always get hot, think about the ICs on your motherboard, those get considerably hot, but you don't worry about them. If you really want a baseline of what your cpu should avoid hitting, refer to your cpus T-junction temps on Intel ark, plus your ambient temperature can always change because of seasons, air conditioning, etc, so I would check my full load temps mainly during hot summer days, just to be safe. To put it bluntly, if your cpu isn't thermal throttling, it's temperatures are perfectly fine.

I read somewhere that someone got a 1060 to 3ghz, which is obviously insane, and would need LN2 cooling all the time, which would be impractical. It would be nice if they increased the instructions per clock instead of making people rely on really high clock speeds to achieve their results.

I'm glad you found the problem. I was going to suggest that you look if your motherboard is only looking for uefi drives, it can cause legacy drives to not show up or be detected.

Oh wait. Nvm. I see my error. I was looking at the memory clock.

I noticed that your card uses Samsung memory, mine uses Hynix memory chips (gpu-z and actual chips confirm it). How did you get your card to overclock to 2249? I thought a 1050 Ti's max is 1911.

Use windows disk management or a third party partitioning tool to do this, and don't format the hdd using your laptop, use another machine or place in inside of a drive enclosure, if you have one lying around.